UKC

Another super windy day in the Northern Corries, winds of 75mph recorded this morning.

Conditions are pretty good in Coire an t'Sneachda at the moment, the gullies have really filled in with this snowy, windy weather, although a lot of it is still quite soft. The rock is mostly fairly dry, but the ice is continuing to build.

Most teams in the Coire headed to the Mess of Pottage today, a good choice to avoid the loaded slopes under the Fiacaill Buttress. With teams on Yukon Jack, the Haston Line, Hidden Chimney direct and Hidden Chimney.

We managed to find a couple of pitched that neither of us had climbed before; we started up Yukon Jack, in the perfect conditions, great ice and neve all the way, probably only grade III, although only 3 pieces of gear in 40 meters!

After that we headed up Technicoloured Dream Crack V,6 and takes a groove line up and left from the start of Hidden Chimney. It turned out to be a great pitch, with good hooks and great gear to get you over quite a large roof half way. Good fun, and slightly sheltered from the wind, which was a bonus today!


There are some pictures on my blog:
http://stewartmountainskills.blogspot.co.uk/

In reply to ian stewart: Did anyone see what kind of condition Hidden Chimney looked in? Is it still lean and hard for the grade?

In reply to Shaunmash:

We didn't go right into Hidden Chimney, the route we did went off left before the start, but there was a lot of snow in all of the gullies and the slant was well filled in, so I would say Hidden Chimney would be the same.

In reply to ian stewart:

A quick update from today: http://stewartmountainskills.blogspot.co.uk/

Very busy on Mess of Pottage!

I have been skiing the last couple of days, but conditions are improving all the time, with a lot of the softer snow firming up nicely.

http://stewartmountainskills.blogspot.co.uk/

p.s. whoever has taken a dump down the second pitch of Patey's Route: This is not ok!!!!!

In reply to ian stewart:

Cha no crag was quite buried with snow today on many routes, but paradoxically the main gully lines were thin with rock and turf showing through. Snow was pretty safe and stable with cornices quite out flank-able. Some turf was aerated.
James e

In reply to ian stewart:
>

For Christ's sake, we're talking about a 120m route here. I'm well aware the strong
est laxative known to man is salopettes but surely you could keep a jobby in for an hour's worth of climbing.
One solid torque and a reach for some decent ice and cnuts are shitting themselves...get it sorted FFS.

In reply to Nigel Thomson:

Potentially the funniest comment I have read on here in a while,

but seriously, no. Just no!!