/ NEWS: Helliker & Bracey Climb FA of Supercouloir de Peuterey

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UKC News - on 31 Dec 2013
Team Psyche!, 2 kb

Chamonix resident guides, Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey, have just made the first ascent of the Supercouloir de Peuterey on the Mont Blanc range, stealing the line from underneath the noses of local Italian climbers.




Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68617
a lakeland climber on 31 Dec 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Nice one.

However isn't this part of the range in Italy? (Yes I know it used to be in France)

bender - on 01 Jan 2014
In reply to a lakeland climber:

We came across 2 bolts. There has been some parties there.

Nice effort. Please don't claim the FA.

spearing05 - on 01 Jan 2014
In reply to bender:


> Nice effort. Please don't claim the FA.

Supercouloir de Peuterey, E-NE face of Mont Noire de Peueterey First 350m, H. Marguerettaz (✝) and G. Sappa 23/3/1983

Integral to ridge, 650m J. Bracey and M. Helliker 16/12/2013Grade: TD, ice and mixed to 90 degrees

Please read the article before criticising.
Jon Bracey - on 01 Jan 2014
In reply to UKC News:
Thought I better try and clear up a couple of points.

Firstly I wrote the story but not the introductory paragraph. It should be 'Italian' climbers NOT french as a lakeland climber pointed out! Get it corrected UKC!

Matt and I have claimed the first 'integral' ascent and have never said anything different.

H. Marguerettaz and G. Sappa climbed the first ~300m in 1983 and named the climb 'Supercouloir de Peuterey'. I do not know what different guidebook editors thought about the original ascent was as it did not exactly end at an obvious point. Despite quite a bit of digging I never found any reports about it or reference to it in any guidebooks.

If anyone has any other questions then please add to the thread and I'll try and get them answered.

Most importantly its a brilliant route so get yourselves up there for some fun climbing.
Post edited at 09:58
Simon4 - on 01 Jan 2014
In reply to Jon Bracey: Looks like a fantastic route Jon, well done, do you think yours is the second overall ascent as well as the first complete to the ridge?

How did you descend, it looks from the pictures as if it hits the ridge just before the start of the Aiguille Noire?

Jon Bracey - on 01 Jan 2014
In reply to Simon4:

According to the Courmayeur contacts we have it was the second ascent of the first section and first ascent of the integral.
We abseiled back down the line of ascent because we left some equipment at the base, but you could easily have descended down the lower section of the east ridge of the Noire, or even better go up to the summit of the Noire first!
Simon4 - on 01 Jan 2014
In reply to Jon Bracey: Just noticed the date of your ascent, I am awed by the thought of doing a big Alpine TD in late December! A great effort, especially in that remote part of the massif.

Did you ski to the base of the route?

Jon Bracey - on 01 Jan 2014
In reply to Simon4:

We carried skis all the way up the morraine ridge thinking they would be useful but stashed them in the end as they were not necessary!
bender - on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to Jon Bracey:

Good effort! Certainly in winter. It has been done before though. Well done.
puppythedog on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to bender:

Has it? I was under the impression from Jon's post they were the first to complete the whole route to the ridge? Who did it first? Do you have other information?
john arran - on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to puppythedog:

What planet must someone be on to expect to be taken seriously coming on here with no identity and anonymously disputing what seems like a perfectly credible and honest claim to a new ascent despite offering zilch by way of justification?

P.s. Well done Matt & Jon
puppythedog on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to john arran:

for clarity John, I was disputing Bender's comments.
tombeasley - on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Great work guys
jon on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to puppythedog:

> for clarity John, I was disputing Bender's comments.

It reads like John was too, except he replied to you,
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puppythedog on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to jon:

Cool, I wasn't sure. Anywho mot point.

Well done Mssrs Helliker and Bracey

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