/ NEWS: Helliker & Bracey Climb FA of Supercouloir de Peuterey
Chamonix resident guides, Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey, have just made the first ascent of the Supercouloir de Peuterey on the Mont Blanc range, stealing the line from underneath the noses of local Italian climbers.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68617
However isn't this part of the range in Italy? (Yes I know it used to be in France)
We came across 2 bolts. There has been some parties there.
Nice effort. Please don't claim the FA.
Supercouloir de Peuterey, E-NE face of Mont Noire de Peueterey First 350m, H. Marguerettaz (✝) and G. Sappa 23/3/1983
Integral to ridge, 650m J. Bracey and M. Helliker 16/12/2013Grade: TD, ice and mixed to 90 degrees
Please read the article before criticising.
Thought I better try and clear up a couple of points.
Firstly I wrote the story but not the introductory paragraph. It should be 'Italian' climbers NOT french as a lakeland climber pointed out! Get it corrected UKC!
Matt and I have claimed the first 'integral' ascent and have never said anything different.
H. Marguerettaz and G. Sappa climbed the first ~300m in 1983 and named the climb 'Supercouloir de Peuterey'. I do not know what different guidebook editors thought about the original ascent was as it did not exactly end at an obvious point. Despite quite a bit of digging I never found any reports about it or reference to it in any guidebooks.
If anyone has any other questions then please add to the thread and I'll try and get them answered.
Most importantly its a brilliant route so get yourselves up there for some fun climbing.
How did you descend, it looks from the pictures as if it hits the ridge just before the start of the Aiguille Noire?
According to the Courmayeur contacts we have it was the second ascent of the first section and first ascent of the integral.
We abseiled back down the line of ascent because we left some equipment at the base, but you could easily have descended down the lower section of the east ridge of the Noire, or even better go up to the summit of the Noire first!
Did you ski to the base of the route?
We carried skis all the way up the morraine ridge thinking they would be useful but stashed them in the end as they were not necessary!
Good effort! Certainly in winter. It has been done before though. Well done.
Has it? I was under the impression from Jon's post they were the first to complete the whole route to the ridge? Who did it first? Do you have other information?
What planet must someone be on to expect to be taken seriously coming on here with no identity and anonymously disputing what seems like a perfectly credible and honest claim to a new ascent despite offering zilch by way of justification?
P.s. Well done Matt & Jon
for clarity John, I was disputing Bender's comments.
Great work guys
It reads like John was too, except he replied to you,
Cool, I wasn't sure. Anywho mot point.
Well done Mssrs Helliker and Bracey
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