/ La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light

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Tommylandy - on 02 Jan 2014
Hi and Happy New Year.

Quick question, I've been Hillwalking for quite a few years now but want to get into a bit more mountaineering in Scotland and eventually moving onto summer alpine walks/climbs and expeditions in the Himalayas (well that's the goal anyway). I'm booked on a two day course with the folks at Glenmore Lodge, then will do the 5 days course and then the Alpine course with Adventure peaks (another 5 day'er I think).

Would the above boots be a good boot start the early stages of my new mountaineering hobby i.e. will they cover Scotland winter and summer alps?

I've read a few reviews but I thought I'd get peoples up to date views.

Cheers

Julian
Mountain Llama on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to Tommylandy:
hi Julian

I have had a couple of pairs of lite wt b2/3 boots and my last pair were the trango evo gtx. Great for Scottish winter and the alps.

There is a compromise with lite wt boots; they are good for climbing and v precise, less tiring on long walk-ins but there not as warm, wear out quicker and the tread depth is less compared to other boots. IMHO there not suitable for Himalayan peaks do to lack of insulation. Plastics or Nepals are the way fwd here.

My trangos have lasted for 4 years and have just been retired as the sole needs replacing and do not want to gamble on a resole to find the uppers go, so there now retired to hill walking.

My advice would've be to go to a store with several models from scarpa and la sportive and try them on as the trangos are quite narrow and you may need a narrow toe bail if you go for step in crampons - ask at the shop.

HTH Davey

PS just bought la sportive Nepal evo gtx in sale!
Post edited at 11:50
Tommylandy - on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to Mountain Llama:

Hi Davey,

Thanks for the note back very kind of you.

I must admit I like the light weight idea and they seem to cover a nice range of activities. I've just checked out your Nepal Evo GTX's very nice!

Next stop a decent shop to try a few on.

Cheers again.

Julian
Chris Huntington - on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to Tommylandy:

Hi Matey.

I had the exact same intention as you about 4 years ago and have since done most of the above you have described. I was persuaded to buy the Trangos you mention and they are a fantastic boot.

But as I started pushing my grade I hade to go out and buy B3's. My feet did get cold Scottish moutaineering esp when stood belaying in them in deep snow. They are a cracking boot though- I have a pair of BD Serac clip crampons that fit them really well too.

Trangos defintely wont be up to Himalayan Peaks though-you'll need a double boot for any peaks. they would suffice for a trek however.

As the other chap says, best to go to a really good shop and get fitted.
Mark / Alps - on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to Tommylandy:

Completely agree with Mountain Llama. The most important feature is that they fit your footshape comfortably. I have used the Evos in Welsh / Scottish winter and lots of summer alpine. Awesome. For me they can feel chilly if in deep snow for an extended period of time or around 4,000 plus metres if an especially cold day but ok if you keep moving.
Tommylandy - on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to Mark / Alps:

Cheers guys,

Hmm my feet do feel the cold, maybe I might be better off with something a little more insulated? Maybe something like Mountain Llama new purchase: la sportive Nepal evo gtx?

My worry was that a B3 boot might be a bit too much for a Scottish winter which if I'm honest is where I'll be spending most of the time with just a few treks over to the Alps here and there on courses, as I say I'm just getting into mountaineering.

I know from experience it's always better to future proof. Also I don't want to have to take new boots to the alps and would rather wear them in a little in the UK.

Hopefully the above doesn't sound to naive (apologies if it does), I'm also a member of a scuba diving forum having dived for years and know how funny newbies can unwittingly sound.

Cheers

J. PS thanks Chris re the note about Serac clip crampons.

dutybooty - on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to Tommylandy:

I always used nepals and recommended them to anyone. Brilliant boots.

If you're serious about this however, then baturas are the way to go.

They are pricey though. My thinking of this is they perform well enough to see you right through from scottish winter to overnight trips in the winter alps (when its not too cold) and if you go lightweight, they'll be plenty of times you'll be wishing you had warmer feet...

Take it from someone with black toes currently...
Tommylandy - on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to dutybooty:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2224 well they look a bit fancy. Blimey that chap Will Sim is good! Might take me a while to get to that level.
Owain - on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to Tommylandy:


Julian,

From my experience the tangos are great mountain boots but lack durability. I've used them for 1 Scottish and 1 NZ winter season and throughout I have had issues. Problems include the rubber rand delaminating, the sole delaminating and as of yesterday the thread holding down the lace eyes is now broken. I did on one occasion send them back to la sportiva for them to remediate the rubber rand delamination however the glue they used lasted less than one winter route. I ended up doing a DIY job on both the rand and sole which is working so far.

I have come to the conclusion that the larger boot size flexes to much causing stresses in the glue resulting in the delamination observed however that is only based on my experience.

Hope this helps.

Owain
TRip - on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to Tommylandy:

I have had two pairs of Sportiva Trango Ss, which are the B2 version of the evos you are looking at. The uppers and the soles are basically are the same as the boots you are looking at.

The boots are brilliant: comfy, lightweight and very precise.

I wouldn't buy another pair however as the soles are not durable enough.

Next time I get a pair of B2 boots I will probably get the new Scarpa Mantas, which are warmer and have a more durable upper and sole. They also fit me well.

The other boot that is worth considering is the Scarpa Jorasses, which is stiffer than the Manta and basically the same as the Trango Evos you are looking at. However the Jorasses have a more durable sole.

Go to good shop, like Outside in Hathersage or Needle Sports in Keswick and try a load on.
Tommylandy - on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to TRip:

Cheers Owain and TRip, from what you and others have said it sounds like the Trango lights could be a bit on the delicate side. I'm up in the lakes in a weeks time so will check out a few of the more specialist and well stocked shops such as Needle Sports.

Thanks.

J.
Cuillin Calling on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to Tommylandy:

I've not used Trango Extreme but have used Trango Evo S for grade 1-2 Scottish winter climbs. They were fine for easy grade routes where I could keep on the move or I was comfortable enough to solo . For cold days or longer sections of ice (grade 3-4 routes) I prefer the Nepal Extremes as they are definitely warmer and more robust when frontpointing. The Trango's were great for summer scrambling on Skye and have done alpine PD rock routes in them, much lighter than the Nepals and have a flattened "climbing zone" area under the toes that gives good edging qualities. Good luck with the decision making.
David Bennett - on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to Tommylandy:
I have a pair of trango s and a pair of extreme evos and agree with much of what has been said. If you're stationary for a long time in snow then your feet will be cool (I have phantom guides for that kind of thing even though the evos are warmer than the S). Trango evos are a fantastic summer alpine boot, they are warm enough, climb very well (including lengthy front pointing), are very comfortable to walk in and are very light. If I only had one boot it would be these.
Post edited at 17:20
Tommylandy - on 09 Jan 2014
In reply to Cuillin Calling:

Wicked Cuillin Calling, thanks for the review really helpful. I need to think about where my mountaineering will take me and how far I intend to push things.
Tommylandy - on 09 Jan 2014
In reply to David Bennett:

Cheers David, I'll hopefully be in a shop next week so all these reviews will certainly help.
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muttley_109 on 10 Jan 2014
In reply to Tommylandy:

If you do decide the Nepal Evo GTX are the boots for you then I have a pair that I've only used once going spare.
I bought them, used them once then life got in the way and I ended up road biking more than climbing!

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