In reply to Simos:
> The problem is that grades are so varied that they are almost meaningless over a short/medium period of time. Over a longer period...
Over a longer period they can be fairly useless as well, walls and/or areas grades can vary a hell of a lot too, not to mention the 'style' of the problem. For example a (pulling a grade out of the air) Font7A thats overhanging is going to require different strengths in technique compared to a Font7A slab.
Some common advice to improve is:
*) identify the areas of technique you are weak on, and send more time working on them.
*) Spread your time in climbing sessions between different types of problems, not just ones your strong on. Like aim to climb 1 or 2 of each type, ie slab/crimpy/sloper/overhanging/etc each session.
*) Then climb them again, seeing if you can find a different or cleaner way up them. Just because you've done if before doesn't mean you can't do it 'better' and still learn something.
Also don't be afraid to drop a few grades working on areas of technique your weak on. Setting goals over a time period is often better then in a single session, instead of saying "i'll climb that F6C slab tonight or never" think " i'll climb the F5+/F6A/B stuff repeatedly over the next few weeks and see what i learn".
Post edited at 03:25