UKC

E 11 on grit

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 Wizzy 05 Jan 2014
Is their a potential line on grit that could come in at E11?
 remus Global Crag Moderator 05 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:

I would have thought so.
OP Wizzy 05 Jan 2014
In reply to remus:

The route would have to be 8b+ (or harder) with a death fall!
 remus Global Crag Moderator 05 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:
That's hard routes for you.
Post edited at 16:55
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 05 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:

> The route would have to be 8b+ (or harder) with a death fall!

With a death fall? Really?



Chris
 The Pylon King 05 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:

Smiling Buttress with out mats?
 Yanis Nayu 05 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:
Hasn't Franco already done one?
 The Pylon King 05 Jan 2014
In reply to Submit to Gravity:

> Hasn't Franco already done one?

Sandstone
 Jayboy 05 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:

Wizard Ridge
 craig h 05 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:

Give it another 30 years and 3 Pebble Slab will have been upgraded to E11
 DerwentDiluted 05 Jan 2014
In reply to craig h:

I thought Wizard ridge was the 'definative' E11 on grit, not that i'm in any way qualified to comment.
 Puppythedog 05 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:

I was only thinking about Wizard Ridge five minutes ago watching hard grit. Is it still unclimbed?
 Jayboy 05 Jan 2014
In reply to puppythedog:

I think so, judging by how green it looks right now
 remus Global Crag Moderator 05 Jan 2014
In reply to DerwentDiluted:

How could it be definitive E11 if no ones climbed it?
 DerwentDiluted 05 Jan 2014
In reply to remus:

> How could it be definitive E11 if no ones climbed it?

That's why I put definitive in inverted commas!
 1poundSOCKS 05 Jan 2014
In reply to remus: Even if someone climbs it and says E11, doesn't make it definitive E11.

 Jamie B 05 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:

Why would it have to have a death fall? That isn't my understanding of the grading system - does Rhapsody have one?
 MischaHY 05 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:

Impossible groove at Burbage? Four english 7b moves in a row from what I've heard.
 Steve Perry 05 Jan 2014
In reply to Jamie B:

> does Rhapsody have one?

Only if you forget to place the nut.
 alooker 05 Jan 2014
In reply to Jamie B:

No, but I think Dave says rhapsody has 8c+ climbing, echo wall seems harder with less gear too. Sounds fair at e11, not that I'll ever know for sure...
 Timmd 06 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:

http://www.rockfax.com/general/pokketz/

Bleedin' Bivi Ledge... ()
Jim C 06 Jan 2014
In reply to Jamie B:
> Why would it have to have a death fall? That isn't my understanding of the grading system - does Rhapsody have one?


http://www.flickr.com/photos/22776031@N05/3222231709/in/set-721576129491095...
Post edited at 02:52
 Michael Gordon 06 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:

> Is their a potential line on grit that could come in at E11?

Of course!
 James Oakes 06 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:
The Groove

youtube.com/watch?v=I-OdxfCrXe4&

Downgraded to E8?
Post edited at 08:46
 Mick Ward 06 Jan 2014
In reply to Timmd:

> http://www.rockfax.com/general/pokketz/

Never mind E whatsit. Didn't realise you could access these cartoons. Loved 'em back in the day, especially the wimmin of the 90s. Gill's jumper with 'Je suis le knob du chien.' Love it!

Mick


 Chris the Tall 06 Jan 2014
In reply to Mick Ward:

Some of these cartoons appeared in the recent peak area quiz.

Now admittedly one member of our team had a bit of an advantage in guessing the captions, but he seemed genuinely surprised that many other people (including me) could also remember them so clearly.

This remains my favourite http://www.rockfax.com/wp-content/uploads/pdfs/belayer.pdf
 Timmd 06 Jan 2014
In reply to Mick Ward:

I like Johnny Dawes hanging on the branch in th background and accidentally letting go with an 'oops'.

()
 1poundSOCKS 06 Jan 2014
In reply to James Oakes: KJ, not doing The Groove.

 Mick Ward 06 Jan 2014
In reply to Chris the Tall:

First bit of OTE I used to look at! Where would climbing be without the banter and piss-takes? My current favourite is James McHaffie's one about Him on Footless Crow. So beautiful...

Mick
 Mick Ward 06 Jan 2014
In reply to Timmd:

At least neither Dawes nor his dread nemesis, Him, resorted to the fateful line, "I didn't actually fall off, I just slipped."

Ahem!!!

Mick
 Graham Hoey 08 Jan 2014
In reply to James Oakes:

> The Groove

> Downgraded to E8?

Currently unrepeated!
 Fraser 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Graham Hoey:

Ok, "almost all of it" has been repeated
 Puppythedog 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Fraser:

I thought the top was considered undoable at the time by [was it] Kevin Jorgeson?
 John_Hat 09 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:

Of course. There's certainly a potential E15 or E20 line on grit as well. Probably overhanging with zero holds and no gear and we'd look at it and say "unclimbable". But give it 50 or 100 years and who knows?
 robin mueller 09 Jan 2014
In reply to John_Hat:

There aren't that many overhanging walls on grit. There is far less potential for hard climbing than many places in the world. Where are the possible E15 or E20 lines?
 Jimbo C 09 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:

> The route would have to be 8b+ (or harder) with a death fall!

Or safe 9a perhaps?

The hard lines are probably more likely to be poorly protected because if they were full of gear slots they'd also be full of holds.

There are some well known lines that could be E11 - Lawrencefield wall, Ulysees wall for example.
 Wft 09 Jan 2014
In reply to Wizzy:
If the rhododendrons were removed from P.Whit's new route I wouldn't argue with E11, font 8A/+ in a serious position. Though obviously this depends on how many rucksacks have been left around the bottom of the crag while people are eating their sandwiches
Post edited at 13:32
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