> I left left some gear up there last year (labelled up). Had to ab off as last pitch was undoable.
The last pitch is always doable. You don't climb up the back but out on to a chockstone, from where (unexpectedly) you can go outside the chimney. I was once climbing it and the team ahead said it was impossible, so I showed them how to do it, and we all succeeded.
Yeah, I fell off trying to finish direct, thinking this is tough for IV, then my mate, who had bothered to read the guide, finished by bridging out to the chockstone. Exciting but bang on for the grade that way.
Mate I think your gear is still there! A couple of screw gates and some cord??
It was completely frozen - if I'd known I would have cut it free but I left it in situ. The traverse out to the choke stone is an 'unbelievable' experience and like you the first time I tried this route I backed off thinking it was out of nick but it really does go. Not sure about the grade though! Definitely the hardest IV I have ever done just for that last pitch - also probably the best