UKC

Hiya,
I’ve been climbing for a few years & chalked off a couple of low grade multi-pitch routes down Winter Leap towards the end of the summer last year. We’re looking for a good destination in Europe for a week’s holiday, Low grade Multi-pitch is what we are looking for (6a+ max) just to chalk up some more experience.
The Verdon Gorge South of France looks good due to grade range & height range however it’s limestone & from experience on sport routes can be polished. Has anybody been last year what’s the condition of the rock or can anyone recommend a good location maybe in the Alps?

In reply to MarkyMark_7:

If you like slabs, Ailefroide is pretty awesome. Not been to Verdon but I believe it's a place to go when you're experienced and confident. Reputation is for very stiff grades and scary, committing routes with several miles between bolts.

I went to Paklenica, Croatia when I was quite new to climbing and enjoyed it. Again the grades were stiff, for 6a+ you'd want to be leading E2.

In reply to MarkyMark_7:
The Verdon Gorge is mostly quite serious - largely because you need to be able to climb out of the gorge and can't simply abseil off it all goes pear shaped.

If you like the S of France, then maybe have a look at some of the stuff around Buis in Provence. There's some good multi-pitch stuff at St Julien and the Dentelles for example. There is a good Rockfax guide to the area (Haute Provence).

Of course, that would be fine in the shoulder seasons but excruciatingly hot mid summer. Then you really would be best off looking to higher altitudes in the alps. Have a look at the multi-pitch stuff around Ailefroide. There are frequent threads on UKC about this place so search on it.Tons of easy'ish long granite slab climbs in a beautiful location.

Or think about roadtrips around Switz and some of the classics such as the Mirroir d'Argentine (limestone) and the granite areas further east around Handegg/Grimsel. Check out the Swiss Plaisir Guide ...

http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Books-Maps-DVDs/Foreign-Climbing-Guid...

In reply to MarkyMark_7:

Ailefroide is a lovely place with lots of good easier multipitch. The endless granite friction slabs can get monotonous, but there's lots of decent sport climbing in other styles not too far away if you find you need a change.

In reply to MarkyMark_7:
As Skyfall says, the Verdon is serious, overhanging abseils, committing, stiff grades. Bolting is often so spaced (8+ metres at times), it will feel like trad and you're often better thinking in British grades, so 6a+ routes like La Demande are really E1. You certainly need a trad rack.

In reply to MarkyMark_7:

We went to the Verdon Gorge for a couple of days in November. Didn't find the polish too bad, and we were climbing in the 5+ to 6a range. For the more committing routes - abseil in but can't ab off or switch lines to escape, we didn't try to push the grade and I insisted we take a clipstick in case of utter disaster. It was a really great place, very beautiful, but possibly somewhat limited for routes at lower grades, it really gets going after about 6a+.

In reply to MarkyMark_7:

Oh, and to agree with other posts, take a trad rack, especially if you're on the short side like me - at one point I had to use a cam to protect my traverse to a bolt

maybe Arco in italy. I havent been, but i think it has multi pitch sport.

In reply to MarkyMark_7: Chamonix has plenty of multipitch, been there twice its great

In reply to The Ivanator:

Whilst I agree the Dri Hornili is a great little adventure in its own right and there's some good climbing, I think the OP should bear in mind this is more of an alpine style route and it isn't really convenience sports cragging (which places like Ailefroide and even Grimsel/Handegg do provide). If the OP is after more of an alpine flavour, then some of the hut based mountain routes near Grimsel/Handegg are also well worth looking at (eg. Gros Furkahorn). All this, including the Dri Horlini, is in the Swiss Plasir Guide as I recall anyway.

In reply to MarkyMark_7:

Ailefroide would be a good choice. Lots of multi-pitch granite routes in the f5 and f6 range, mostly 6 to 12 pitches and well bolted, also single pitch, bouldering, via ferrata and Alpine stuff to go at. Also multi-pitch limestone just down the road.
Email me if you need more specific information.

Always nice when the OP comes back to say thanks....

In reply to Skyfall:


Now, now: it's not even been 24 hours yet. He may be off having one of those 'life' things, rather than hanging around on here.

Again, if the OP is looking for a bit of a range of stuff including peaks, what about the Ariege? Plenty of low mountain experience to be had on the Dent D'Orlu, and good multi-pitch around Sinsat (bit hot in summer, though). Easy access from Toulouse, and plenty of accommodation choices - my tip is for climb ariege, near Foix.

In reply to maisie:



Well said. The petulance and impatience on these forums is staggering sometimes (not just directed at Skyfall btw!)

In reply to maisie:


Maybe, but the number of times I have posted loads of info and, in some cases, even been asked to email info/photos and had no response is depressing really. In fact, that's one of the reasons I had largely stopped bothering posting on this sort of thread after more than a decade of trying to be helpful. So excuse my petulance.

In reply to MarkyMark_7:

.....and don't forget Cornwall.

In reply to MarkyMark_7:

Thanks all I’ve got lots of home work to do now, Ailefoide looks good lots of variety.
Love the idea of the Almageller Hut right adventure but think it’s best we chalk off some more multi-pitch rock time, we’re not really after Alpine style routes but I won’t ever rule anything out until I’ve tried it.

Thanks for the e-mail David I’ll have a dig round & no I won’t forget about Cornwall my favourite county & not that far from me being based in the South. I’ve got Lundy to check out in May, we’re tagging on with a more experienced group to second the devils slide.

In reply to MarkyMark_7:

Dolomites?

In reply to MarkyMark_7:

Here's a few more suggestions:
Bruggler is a magical place. There is a low-grade campsite (a local village enterprise) in a wonderful wildflower meadow. The crag is magnificent with superb views and the descent goes through the best wildflower meadows you'll ever see.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10269
Mittagfluh is another crag we enjoyed. Only twenty minutes from the road and it's gneiss - much more interesting than the granite slabs.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10269
If you want a mountain venue you couldn't do much better than Bergsee. It's a fairly short and delightful walk up to the hut and some great multi pitch within a few minutes of the hut.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9425
And don't forget the Miroir d'Argentine
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=4083

In reply to Rog Wilko:

Sorry, wrong link for Mittagfluh - should be this:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3194

In reply to Rog Wilko:

Agreed, as I mentioned, there's a ton of good long routes in Siwtz which are alpine length but not overly serious and make for a good road trip.