UKC

What Are Your North York Moors Desires This Year?

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 Franco Cookson 07 Jan 2014
It's here! The time has come - the spring bull of Moors ambition is humping at the gate!

So. What's it gonna be this year? Finally hoping to slay the highcliffe wonder Wombat? Fancy a pure joy-nugual on Top Gun? Maybe you just like the idea of a splendid summer's evening on Forest Face?

Me? I want to get out to the coast a bit more: see what the craic is down at the Smuggler's Terrace. It would be great to hang out down Tripsdale a bit too; get there before the midges and bracken are out.

All the signs are showing that this Moors season is going to be extra special. Stoved!
 Yanis Nayu 07 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

I want you to climb an E12 and make Andy Farnell's head explode.
 martinph78 07 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Might go take a look at Psykovsky's Sequins :p

I've had "The Night Watch" at Whitestone Cliffe on my ticklist forever now, just need a second with some balls lol.
 Mountain Llama 07 Jan 2014
In reply to Martin1978: watch out for the nettles.........

In reply to Martin1978:

You should really go and do it! It's really easy to get to and it has to be one of the best routes in England. The nettles aren't too much of a problem on that part of the cliff either.
 martinph78 07 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

I will do. My mates read the guidebook about lose rock and bottle it. Might talk one of them into it this year though.

I don't care about nettles, but thanks for the warning, I'll wear long sleeves!
In reply to Martin1978:

The rock on The Nightwatch is as solid as a badger's accountancy skills. That whole area of Whitestone is pretty solid and getting better all the time - unlike the rest of the cliff.

Have you been to Peak Scar? That's fairly bomber too and is nearly as big as Whitestone!
 John Foster 07 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

the spring bull of Moors ambition is humping at the gate!

Very well put.

Top Gun, The Night Watch, Gehenna, Aces High, Slanting Flake.


 Dave Ferguson 07 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

I just want to get up Satchmo with some degree of decorum
 peppermill 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

See another pair of climbers when I'm at the crag....

Only joking, to be honest nothing flash, just want to head to Scugdale, it's where I learnt to lead and I haven't been back there for years!
 Andy Farnell 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Submit to Gravity: Yawn.

Andy F

 Fraser 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

None. Convince me otherwise.
 BAdhoc 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

I quite fancy starting on the E numbers anywhere in the moors seeing as its closest. might need a bit more practise at the lower grades first tho.
 Puppythedog 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

I fancy having a go at North York Moors, never climbed there so what should be on a hitlist for me for a weekend?

I climb up to E2ish on Slabs maybe harder, quite alright on less tall stuff and able to push harder. Crap at overhanging and jamming but happy to have a go (maybe not at E2).
Also which guidebook should I get?
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Martin1978:

Nightwatch is one of the very best routes on the NYM. Steep and burly for the grade so be sure to focus on some power training first!

Nightwatch and the routes in that area are solid and best climbed in the spring when there will be now nettles at the bottom.
 freemanTom 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Be nice to got Mongol ticked off and Wombat.
 martinph78 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

I shall give Peak Scar a look sometime as well. Cheers
 martinph78 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Steve Crowe:

Thanks for the heads-up. Not sure I'll be ready this spring then...lol. I'll certainly go and have a look this year. There are a few on teh Cheviot I want to explore also.
 jack_44 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

To get the North East England" guidebook!!!! (Hint hint )
In reply to puppythedog:

Now then, the first bit of advice I'd give, is that you shouldn't just stick to one crag, as there aren't very many crags in the Moors that offer a lot of good routes at a certain grade.

The first port of call should probably be the Wainstones though, You've got Ali Baba (E2) and West Sphinx Direct (E3) too (If you're feeling a little bold). You can combine this with a nip over to Raven's Scar: Fever Pitch (E2) and Satchmo (E1/2). Ravenscar is pretty green this time of year like.

After that you could poke your head into Moors LImestone - Peak Scar and Whitestone have piles of great HVSs and E1s to have a go at (these are traditional mind).

Back on the Sandstone: Mongol (E2), gehenna (HVS) and tremor (E2) (all at Beacon Scar) are all great crack climbs of varying styles.

Park Nab and Ingleby offer more of the typical "moors short solos" and beyond that, for a bit of a wildcard, you can get out to Stoupe Brow and the Smuggler's terrace. Central Crack (E2) is a particularly fine line and there's even a bolted F6c arete.
In reply to puppythedog:

O yeh, and Highcliffe is top notch too - there's a good day there.


I agree about the guidebook. When's it out Steve!
 Puppythedog 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

cheers Franco, guidebook options?
In reply to puppythedog:


It can all be found here: http://www.climbonline.co.uk/north_york_moors1.htm

Steve puts a lot of work in keeping it up to date, so most of it can be relied upon.

Unfortunately there isn't a guidebook. I think it's effectively ready to publish - let's hope it's out soon!
 Wft 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

actually go this year
cheat on Collateral
try hard on Strategem
bivy with Lee
In reply to GuyVG:

cheat on collateral?
 Wft 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

i.e. practise, JOKES
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 08 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

> I agree about the guidebook. When's it out Steve!

It's still on sale in Edinburgh...

lots of PDF updates can be found at www.climbonline.co.uk
too.
In reply to GuyVG:

thought you meant that haha.
In reply to Steve Crowe:
but when are we going to get a nice new paper one? The new PDFs are excellent, they'd make a thrilling book.
Post edited at 20:55
 steepstuff 12 Jan 2014
In reply to Steve Crowe:
Hi Steve, on a diffrent subject I have been told that you have a good PDF guide for chulilla, is it ok to get a copy from you please?
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 12 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

A rewrite of my North of England book with (much) expanded coverage of the NYM.


Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I think you'd need a 2 volume guide, rather than a larger part of a regional one...

What might make more sense is a route selective - crag definitive guide. There are great routes at most crags, but a lot of shite too. I'm not sure that would work with the rockfax format though...



 carlos2001 18 Jan 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Anywhere we can get some raves goin around there Franco boy

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