UKC

There's a pretty good looking SAIS forecast for tomorrow. I'm thinking some of the easier gullies in the Northern Corries might be worth looking at with the temperature drop coming tomorrow, or is there still too much snow?

In reply to Shaunmash:

We did Red Gully on Sunday http://mattsmithclimbs.blogspot.co.uk/. I thought a thaw and refreeze would be of benefit and we've had a bit of a thaw, and the freezing level is predicted to be 800m tomorrow, so conditions should be better than the weekend. I'd say get in there and have a look.

In reply to cannichoutdoors:

Thanks good to know. Was there a cornice above it?

Green avalanche forecast for north and north-west slopes tomorrow so i'm hoping it'll be alright.

In reply to Shaunmash:

The right hand of the exit looked steep and soft as it faces NE, we went left through the rocks at the top which was fine.

Just compared my photo with SAIS blog. There seems to have been more snow since the weekend. I would suggest you take more notice of Alan Halewood's post from today http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=568377 than my report from 3 days ago.

In reply to cannichoutdoors:

do you think loose stuff that regularly falls off from higher up red gully will be properly frozen in place? I did hear some reports recently on one of the guide sights that blocks werent frozen in place but cant remember where the location was. Anyway red gully is definitely one to avoid during a thaw.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Red Gully does have that reputation for falling rocks, and I wouldn't want to predict it would be safe on any given day. Freezing level was 700 rising to 1100 in the afternoon on Sunday when we did it, and the rocks were well frozen in to the good snow cover. We were on the plateau by 1130am, and had purposefully chosen a day when it was reasonably cold to start.

In reply to cannichoutdoors:

Above zero at the Ptarmigan at 7.30 tonight, most stuff has settled down and forecast to get colder. Although I've not been into the corrie I'd say the gullies could be in great nick.

In reply to Shaunmash:

Just been up there!

Check out my short video I made which you can see what the conditions were/are like.

youtube.com/watch?v=Kbb6nloPIQk&

Enjoy!

Nick

In reply to Shaunmash:

Thursday 9th.

Reasonable ice and snow cover on gullies of Coire an t-Sneachda cliffs today but the snow is only partially consolidated so that it has poor strength. Axes pull through. Rock belays are well buried. Cracks full of hard ice. Ice building in places though often under snow.

Still fun, once you get used to all the digging. It will not take much to make it really excellent. Another moderate thaw and freeze cycle is needed.