/ Whats your ultimate Alpine ticK?
There's a whole bunch:
1938 Route on the Eiger - the history, everyone knows it, adventure route
Walker Spur (also Croz) - looks amazing
Hyper Couloir - amazing line, looks awesome climbing wise
Super Couloir - just look at the line here - http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions/7371846-super-couloir-direct-mont-blanc-du-...
Peutery Integrale - big long, multi-day committing route.
1938 route on Eiger.
For a while i had longings to do an ascent of the North face of the Scheidegg Wetterhorn (neighbour to the eiger). It hadnt had a British ascent as far as i could tell in the late 90's, early 2000's. It looked like total adventure, but i got sucked into the obsession with its more well known neighbour and never ventured onto it.
A bit along Jame's thoughts (though never got around to) the more remote and non-classic six stuff has always appealed... good example being the likes of the Finsteraarhorn NE spur http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2004_files/AJ%202004%20176-182%20Venables%20Finste...
Any route up the Verte, or Jorasses, they are the only big summits around Mont Blanc that I haven't ticked.
Either anything on the Freney Face so that I would have climbed on every every face and ridge on Mont Blanc, or the N.Face of the Droites because I went up to do it eight times in the eighties but never got it done and it's bugged me ever since.
The Direct was done early 90's by a couple of mates from Cumbria ( at the time ).
They had a bit of an epic, no wonder its route 100 in Extreme Alpine Rock.
I think the other route further right has had a few more British ascents.
Looking from the base a few years ago the 1923? original route does not look an easy option. Amazing route for the day.
Twice for the Freney and thrice for the Droites for me. Bugged also.
I have always fancied the Schneidegg Wetterhorn and the Geneva Pillar on the Eiger. An expensive hobby coverting routes in the Oberland though.
Isn't it just! I might have to stick to the chamonix hills.
I agree, though there is the South Pillar of the Schreckhorn that I fancy, with a traverse to the Lauteraarhorn after.
Dave got me thinking of big link ups that'd be nice. I want to head along Rochefort Arete then traverse Grandes Jorasses, I wonder if you could traverse to the Triolet, Droites, Verte and Dru after?
I've done S Pillar of the Shreckhorn.
Colton/Brookes, Les Droites. That white line, cutting diagonally across that rock shield, what a stunning line!
Colton macintyre - Grand Jorasses (it's the Jorasses, it's bound to be good)
Walker spur - Grand Jorasses (how hard can it be?)
Colton Brooks - Droites (the line and location)
Supercouloir - M.Blanc du Tacul (skin, climb and ski, all in a day)
1938 route - Eiger (The history and adventure)
Peutery Integral (my it's long)
Too late to say I'm sorry - Vertes (just look at that ice smear!)
That Mark Twight route on the Pelerins
Divine Providence - (Pft, as if I'll ever be that good!)
North Couloir - Grand Dru (it's a N.Face, enough said)
Want more? I have a A4 page of alpine wish lists climbs ;)
Yes it was the direct I was lusting after. Good to hear that it had been done. I missed seeing any report of their ascent but I probably looked and asked in the wrong places.
I will cross that off the list.
Viv I agree with you on the Finsteraarhorn. I saw a great picture of, I think, Dick Renshaw, on it and thought I'd like some of that!
I'm scared of snow, ice and things falling on me, so ...
Marmolada South Face: Don Quixote or Vinatzer/Messner
Salbit West Ridge
Aig. du Dibona - this one is top of the list for this summer, and hopefully a bit less aspirational than the first two.
Hi well if i ever get the chance money etc then Zinalrothorn summit just amazing, pinnacles ridges a great mix
Dream list, mixed with some more realistic aspirations:
Jorasses - Belle Helene
Droites - Ginat
Grosser Fusstein - NE pillar
Finsteraarhorn - NE pillar
Eiger - 1938 route
Civetta - Phillip/Flamm
Matterhorn - Zmutt ridge or classic N face
It was alaways Eiger 1938 routes for all the obvious rerasons.
But I think now it would be a traverse of the Chamonix aguiles.
Not quite the same history but probably more enjoyable, and more suited to my abilities!!
I can vouch for the 1938 route being awesome.. There's not much in condition out here at the moment by the sounds of it.
Perhaps some big link ups on ridges as jonnie said would be good if we have some stable weather.
Beyond Good and Evil!
(BTW it's the utterly stunning Mark Twight line that Chris couldn't remember the name of.)
Eiger - 1938 Route
Matterhorn - North Face Classic
Les Droites - The Ginat or Colton Brooks
Also some silly link-ups that I'd like to do. Frendo Spur followed by Gervasutti Piller. North face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey followed by something above the Freney basin.
As a man with a little girl creating lots of fun but giving little time, it's more realistic ticks than ultimate ticks for me so this year hopefully fil a plomb and eugster direct to get up the front face above chamonix on an icy technical line which has been a wish for a couple of years, let down so far by weather on my week away!
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