/ rainbowing at the wall, better prep for outdoors

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SCrossley on 09 Jan 2014
Just a thought and I have not developed it yet, but as a training aid for trad or even outside sport, would rainbowing and thinking about the best hold/ move to get to the top, rather than thinking of the challenge set by the route setter be better? So say you climb 6B pick a section of wall with 3 routes 6b+, 6c, 7a but rainbow it, so you rather than the route setter defines the path.
Fraser on 09 Jan 2014
In reply to GLUF:

I think you'd be doing very well to determine which holds were in and which were out, as you climbed. Better to work out from the deck what ones you can use. Personally, I think it'd be a poorer training option than just doing a single-coloured route, pre-graded at your target F6b.

Yes, you could do it the way you suggest, but I don't think you'd get much benefit from it, if any.
shark - on 09 Jan 2014
In reply to GLUF:

Just using features for feet would be better
jkarran - on 09 Jan 2014
In reply to GLUF:

Unless you're very disciplined I think you'll find yourself either making lots of very small moves with generally good, perfectly placed footholds or bouncing between jugs like a gibbon. Neither of which are good training for trad (climb an easier than normal route slowly and statically, test holds and shapes before you commit to them, pause frequently and reverse a few moves periodically). Or sport (climb the set route, it's as close to a chalked sport route as you'll get).

That said, if you want to try it, go for it.

jk
Bulls Crack - on 09 Jan 2014
In reply to shark:

> Just using features for feet would be better

+1 - perhaps the most unrealistic feature of climbing walls is sticky-out footholds
crayefish - on 09 Jan 2014
In reply to Bulls Crack:

At the Westway the newest wall is very realistically featured and has good grip... there are at least three climbs that can be done 'features only' for both hands and feet. This includes normal features, finger cracks and my favorite; an off-width crack :)

GULF; maybe there is a wall within a doable distance from you that has something similar?
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SCrossley on 09 Jan 2014
In reply to GLUF:

Thanks for the replies, they have given me food for thought.

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