UKC

I was quite interested in a recent post by Simos and have a related question that I think is sufficiently different to start a new thread.

Recently, I've been doing quite a lot of circuits and am probably the fittest I have ever been but am not certainly as strong as I used to. I'm pretty keen to switch focus to getting stronger, but wondering the best way to monitor improvements in strength and to follow how this affects endurance levels. Ideally I think the best way would to identify 5-10 key exercises that I can use as reporters of strength/endurance levels. Ideally these wouldn't include any specific routes or boulders that are likely to change, or include tasks with significant improvements through practicing the specific task. I'm thinking of things like number of reps of foot on campusing, time hanging a particular hold on a fingerboard etc.

Does anyone know of some kind of list of tests that can be used this way. I'm not looking to compare myself to others or even a particular grade, but would like to use it to follow my own improvements through the course of a year.

Cheers, Tony

In reply to TonyB: hi I am just at the same place with my climbing, and had a very informative coaching session to look to adress some of these areas. I am fairly strong through bouldering although need to improve power on long moves and route stamina. The use of campus and finger boards seem to be the way and trying routes just above your normal onsite grade and lots of it. I am in matlock and keen to train and work a route in this area. Best of luck

In reply to TonyB:

Why not write just write the grades of problems or routes you are doing?

I climb in shorts/trousers with velcro pockets and keep a small pad+pen in the leg pocket. After a problem while I rest I'll write down the grade/colour and steepness of the problem (slab, flat, overhang/roof)

Also the location of where you are climbing if you climb multiple places. This lets you compare your grades within a climbing center which is good as no two places will grade the same

Just from this I know I've gone up 2 V grades on multiple-attempt problems since last summer (which must mean i'm getting stronger )

In reply to TonyB:

There's a fingerboard designed by someone who's name temporarily escapes me that consists of edges graded in mm. Holding for longer and/or on smaller rungs gives a specific indication that you are getting better

In reply to nufkin:


This one?

http://jmclimbing.com/shop/tablas/14-progression.html

In reply to jsmcfarland:

Not necessarily I am afraid. What it could mean is that you are getting better at boulder specific problem solving. Improving movement, body positioning could bring you more than pure strength. So in the nutshell, it is not 'must mean' but 'could mean' and unfortunately is not a good way to measure power/strength gain. For that you need very specific exercises.

In reply to TonyB:


Yep - that makes sense. When you build aero-power, your anaerobic capacity goes down. Striking a balance between being fit and being strong is a fine line and needs to be considered in context of your target routes. No point in being overly strong on a stamina route! COnversely, being super-fit, but not being able to pull off the crux move is equally unproductive.


Ask yourself why? Are you actually weak, or is it just your ego saying you want to be stronger?


1, % body weight your can hang on a single joint edge (one handed - change % loading with additional weights (you're too strong already) or decrease with a pulley & weights)
2, Max time/number of moves foot-on campusing would be a good test of max aero-power. Dave Binney has correlated #moves with angle of board and max on-sight grade. Tom Randall has an even better measurement on his "lattice board" test, e.g. 70 moves = OS'ing a resistance based f8a
3, The hard bit is getting all your energy systems working in a balanced way that is specific to your aims. Measuring this isn't easy and describing it in a single forum post harder still. If you're serious about doing it right, as someone else has rightly pointed out - don't ask here, get the input of a proper coach who knows their stuff. (Ask Tom - he's a co-owner of your local wall!)

In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks for the advice. I wrote the original post back at the beginning of January and had done exactly what you suggested re. speaking with a coach. Although I've made good gains in the PE, I'm now focusing mostly on making further gains there. I also have a better idea of how I need to improve strength. Finger strength and lock off strength are pretty OK but core is my weakest link. So I'm pretty certain where to focus.

The two exercises that you list were exactly the two that I was recommended for benchmarking my level. At the moment, I want to use these to follow my progress and will simply record how they change and what effect it has on my redpoint level. I suspect that the aero-power test will be more closely related than finger strength as I don't favour very bouldery routes, but I'd like to see.

Cheers, Tony