/ Equalizing two anchors without hardware.

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Cadairmanuk - on 11 Jan 2014
Just been practising a bit of rope work for ML training. Dumb question but I'm happy equalising anchors in a rock climbing set up with karbs and all the other hard ware.

With a rope only.

Question? You have two bomb proof anchors say two spikes. Ok so over hand on a bite on one anchor work out how much length you need put a over hand on a bite on the second anchor or other methods bow line , figure 8 . Then equalise with again with a over hand knot? Is this secure? Anyone help me out with the correct method. Rope only.

Go easy on me.

Ben
jimjimjim on 11 Jan 2014
In reply to Cadairmanuk:
Over hand for one loop then an alpine butterfly for the next. Easy to equalise. Dont know if this is right but it's the caving way....for some.
Or....thinking as I type, a double fig 8. Not as easy to equalise though.???
I await someone who actually knows ehat they're talking about. ;)
Post edited at 20:52
David Coley - on 11 Jan 2014
In reply to Cadairmanuk:
Bunny Ears etc.
See section 4 of http://people.bath.ac.uk/dac33/high/16Knots2.htm

martinph78 on 11 Jan 2014
In reply to Cadairmanuk:

I don't think that this will come up to be honest, so I wouldn't worry about it as part of the ML. In fact isn't ropework out of the new syllabus altogether (apart from confidence roping)? Also, it's training, you're there to make mistakes and to learn so have fun :)

If you want to know for interest purposes then I'd probably go with Ben's suggestion above.

Also, there isn't usually a "right or wrong" way (well, apart from safe or unsafe) so being adaptable is key. Keep it as simple as possible though.


jezb1 - on 11 Jan 2014
In reply to Martin1978:
Ropework isn't out, just lowering that's out.

However, you won't be needing to equalise anchors as an ML, part of the skill is selecting one mega bomber anchor.
Post edited at 21:04
Cadairmanuk - on 11 Jan 2014
In reply to Cadairmanuk:

Thanks for the replies and links. Not sure if it's in the course now I know two anchors aren't. It just got me thinking.

So basically my question boils down to is equalizing with a big over hand knot safe ? Is there a risk it could slip through?

Ben
martinph78 on 11 Jan 2014
In reply to jezb1:

> Ropework isn't out, just lowering that's out.

(apart from confidence roping), what does that leave then?

rug - on 11 Jan 2014
In reply to Cadairmanuk:

This might be a good question to ask your instructors, as you could work through different options together. Better than a description via the web - and probably shows good initiative on your part too. Popular thing, showing initiative ...

Rug
jezb1 - on 11 Jan 2014
In reply to Martin1978:

Protecting your client or clients down a short rocky step.

Ie. the same as before but in descent your client is scrambling down rather than being lowered and you are protecting against a slip.
obi-wan nick b - on 12 Jan 2014
alexcollins123 - on 12 Jan 2014
In reply to Martin1978:

Confidence roping (short roping w/o anchors - on the move)
Confidence roping (on rocky scrambly ground w/ anchors)

Also they took out the use of a rope for river crossings
David Coley - on 12 Jan 2014
In reply to obi-wan nick b:

> In-in figure of 8?


Although a great knot, in that one can adjust it very, very, quickly, it has a failure mode. If the knot flips (maybe because it rubs against a rock) it turns into a slip-like knot. This means it extends badly and it the tail anchor fails it could be terminal
PM on 12 Jan 2014
In reply to Cadairmanuk:

If you're all out of karbs, try proteins or fats. They'll fill you right up. Proteins are probably a better bet, as they're strong and won't be so likely to melt.

Ban1 - on 12 Jan 2014
In reply to David Coley:

What a great find cheers
andrewmcleod - on 12 Jan 2014
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> Loop the rope round one of them and tie it back to your harness - too radical?

What harness? (this is ML work...)
ads.ukclimbing.com
Cadairmanuk - on 12 Jan 2014
In reply to Cadairmanuk:

Cheers people for messages , links and advice.

Think I have it all nailed.

Ben

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