In reply to Michael Gordon:
> South-East Buttress? I've done this under powder with the first pitch feeling more like IV,4!
Started up a grade IV, but conditions on the steep bit were horrible crud, so I climbed a little mixed step to gain a steep snow slope leading onto S.E Buttress. This turned out to be an "unjustifiable" steep slope of foot deep sugary snow overlying spongy heather. I reversed to the belay and we abbed off. Total humiliation.