/ 8.3mm Rope advice

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SteveoS - on 12 Jan 2014
I've been looking for a confidence rope and found a 8.3mm I like the look of. I was wondering if this was too thin if the leader happened to fall off of some steeper ground? Would a 10mm be better? Not climbing overhung rock but if you end up off route and have to lead a short vertical pitch? Would rather not find out the hard way...

crayefish - on 13 Jan 2014
In reply to SteveoS:

If the rope is rated it should be fine just as a confidence rope. In *general*, the thinner the rope the thinner the sheath so the quicker it will wear. If you're not expecting much dragging of the rope on sharp rocks (or falling on it, as thinner ropes often have fewer rated falls) then personally I'd be fine with it. I use a single 8.6 half rope for mountaineering that doesn't involve much pitched climbing.
SteveoS - on 13 Jan 2014
In reply to SteveoS:

Thanks, was looking at an 8.6 but the 8.3 is only 35!
needvert on 13 Jan 2014
In reply to SteveoS:

I regret getting 8.3mm half ropes...First time I used them I thought "Christ these feel almost as thick as a single". It feels inevitable that, at least while they're new, I'll end up leading something on just one of them. Reading about, I gather leading on one half rope isn't uncommon in experienced circles in the mountains.

You can get 8.7mm single ropes now days. Maybe a super skinny single would be a good compromise between a 10mm and a half.
BnB - on 13 Jan 2014
In reply to SteveoS:
You could lead a short pitch on a doubled up skinny confidence rope, using it as a twin or half. But better that the rope is rated as a half rather than as a twin, as this would give you confidence to lead on a single strand in extremis. After all, if the pitch is more than 15m you are probably off route!! I would definitely aim for the lightest rope as you want to enjoy your scrambling, don't you?
Post edited at 07:49
crayefish - on 13 Jan 2014
In reply to needvert:

For climbing I'd agree with you. But its not what he's asked for. Perhaps we can assume that this is only for scrambling and not climbing? A super skinny single is not cheap!!!

Steveo can you confirm or deny?
needvert on 13 Jan 2014
In reply to crayefish:

Indeed, not the cheapest option. I notice on amazon you can pick up a 30m nano:
Sterling Nano - 30m - 83USD = 50GBP
crayefish - on 13 Jan 2014
In reply to needvert:

I've not heard of a nano before. Skinny single?
needvert on 13 Jan 2014
In reply to crayefish:
Yip. In the skinny single stakes chances are you'll be looking at one of these:

Sterling nano - 9.2mm 53g/m (single/half)
Mammut serenity - 8.9mm 52g/m (single, not sure about half/twin status)
Mammut serenity - 8.7mm 51g/m (single/half/twin)
Beal joker - 9.1mm 52g/m (single/half/twin)

For comparison:

Mammut 8.3mm meteor half rope is 46g/m
Mammut 10mm galaxy single rope is 67g/m

Lightest half rope that I know of being the Beal 7.3mm Gully, 36g/m!
Post edited at 10:55
SteveoS - on 13 Jan 2014
In reply to crayefish:
For scrambling! Previously have gone off route and lead a diff pitch by chance but that was on a friends half. Was wondering for a just in case scenario.

I've found an 8.3 (1/2) for 35 quid on sale atm, so was weighing it up!
Post edited at 12:08

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