UKC

Planing down campus rungs

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 sip a cup 14 Jan 2014
I have been playing on my campus board of late and after a a month of laddering etc I've found I need to over load again. I was thinking of adding weight but planning them down seems the best choice. There 15mm rounded edge now was thinking of taking them down to 10mn rounded. Any one done this and seen better results. Thanks!
 kenr 15 Jan 2014
Maybe I'm not getting how you're measuring. Because seems to me that 15mm is already thinner than the smallest of the three Metolius wood campus rung sizes.

And only very strong climbers can ladder (with no feet touching the wall or holds) on the smallest Metolius rungs.
. . (but perhaps I'm misunderstanding what you mean by "laddering".)

What most people do who start finding the obvious laddering too easy is "double dynos" (no feet) up rung to rung up the ladder. And when that gets easy, then double-dynos downward.

Of course there's nothing wrong with your other idea: Adding weight. (but less fun than double-dynos)

Ken
 JIMBO 15 Jan 2014
In reply to sip a cup:

Adding weight is easier and more comfortable. I've used really small rungs before and found it can be limited by the properties of the skin rather than strength. Currently I'm trying simple ladders (1-2-3 or 1-3-5) with a 10kg weight jacket and that feels hard enough to shock the system. Later I'll do the drop downs too.
 kenr 16 Jan 2014
In reply to JIMBO:
> ... it can be limited by the properties of the skin rather than strength.

Yes very good point - (And that's generally a problem with repetitive training of finger strength, unless you're intent is to somehow build skin toughness?)

Another danger of campusing on thin holds is that you're tempted to catch/latch moves on a crimp grip. The eminient Dave MacLeod specifically warns against crimping while campusing, because it's a likely a key cause of the many injuries reported from campusing.
My non-expert guess it launching a move off a crimp is not as dangerous.

My suspicion is that latching a dynamic move on a crimp has the special hazard of a failed Crimp _collapsing_ toward an Open grip -- and that it's the in-between configuration that's especially nasty on finger pulleys and tendons.
. (Whereas when latching a move with an Open grip, if it fails the fingers just slip off -- which might be nasty for skin, but less likely to injure pulleys and tendons).

An alternative to adding weight is to use fewer fingers (e.g. teams of two) on each campus move. Nice for the show-off factor, but for training I think it makes more sense to just add weight, because that's consistently measurable.

Ken

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