UKC

Bodging off-road tyres onto my hybrid

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Hooo 15 Jan 2014
I thought I'd have a go at some gentle off road stuff while it's too wet to climb, so I bought a pair of 29"x2" tyres for my Carrera hybrid. Made a schoolboy error in calculating the clearances though, and the knobbles on the back tyre rub the frame where it tapers in behind the crank. I can't send it back now I've fitted it, and I couldn't find any knobbly tyres under 2" anyway.
So, do I hammer some dents in the frame tubes, or trim the knobbles off the tyre? It's an ally frame, so should be pretty ductile?
 gear boy 15 Jan 2014
In reply to Hooo:

wont take long to sand/cut the tread down so it doesnt rub, your only issue is clearance and mud build up in use

dont bend the frame, you will weaken it
 A O 15 Jan 2014
In reply to Hooo:

Don't modify your frame. Aluminium is quite ductile but won't deform very far before it cracks, ruining the frame. Trimming the outer knobbles is your best bet if you want to keep those tyres (you'd probably get a reasonable price on ebay for used once) but obviously take care not to cut the tyre wall. For future reference cyclocross tyres would have been a better option - knobbly and 1.25"-1.5"
 lost1977 15 Jan 2014
In reply to Hooo:
I would quickly try and flog them here, if they sell you use the cash for tyres that fit and if they don't then you still have the option to try something else
Post edited at 18:22
OP Hooo 15 Jan 2014
In reply to A O:

What's a cyclocross tyre then? Do they work on wet grass and mud?
T_Mac 15 Jan 2014
In reply to Hooo:

Definately don't hammer the frame, as others have said, it'll weaken the metal as you won't be able to bend the stays enough to clear a 2" tyre without completely compromising the frame.
 DaveHK 15 Jan 2014
In reply to Hooo:

If you decide to flog them rather than trim try some of these:

http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/schwalbe-smart-sam-700c-x-47mm---28-x-1...

Basically a fat cyclocross tyre. Measure up at about 1.75". If that's still too fat they do a 40mm too.

I rode the 3 peaks on the 35mm version so they do work!
T_Mac 15 Jan 2014
In reply to Hooo:

In the most symplistic terms, thin knobbly tyres and cantilever or disc brakes fitted to road frames and raced around fields and wooded trails. Obviously, its a discipline in its own right and cx bikes are far more purpose built than I've suggested before the cx guys shoot me down but you get the idea....
OP Hooo 15 Jan 2014
In reply to DaveHK:

That looks good. TBH I didn't look beyond chain reaction and Wiggle as I thought 50mm would fit.
Cycling stuff does seem bloody complicated, it took ages just work out what diameter tyres to get, let alone what discipline would be most appropriate!
 DaveHK 15 Jan 2014
In reply to Hooo:

> > Cycling stuff does seem bloody complicated, it took ages just work out what diameter tyres to get, let alone what discipline would be most appropriate!

You really don't know the half of it! Even when you know a bit about it compatability can be a nightmare.
OP Hooo 15 Jan 2014
In reply to lost1977:

I don't know if it's worth selling it. It cost £17.50, and it'll cost a tenner to post it. Unless someone wants a Geax Saguaro 29 x 2 and can collect from West Sussex

OP Hooo 15 Jan 2014
In reply to Hooo:

A couple of (probably silly) questions...
1. Is it OK to have a fatter tyre on the front, or should I change both?
2. Should I have got fatter inner tubes too? I just used the ones that were in my 38mm tyres.
 Luke90 15 Jan 2014
In reply to Hooo:

1. Not at all uncommon to have different tyres front and rear. Shouldn't cause you any issues at all.
2. The inner tubes you have will probably stretch enough but if you find yourself getting more punctures, buy fatter ones.
OP Hooo 16 Jan 2014
In reply to Hooo:

Thanks everyone.
Ordered a Smart Sam in 40mm to be safe, and going to try and persuade Wiggle to take one of the 50mm back.
 LastBoyScout 16 Jan 2014
In reply to Hooo:

> 1. Is it OK to have a fatter tyre on the front, or should I change both?

I used to run 2.1" on the front of my old mountain bike and 1.8" on the back - rigid forks, so the extra volume was a bit more forgiving on the front and the narrow back gave better mud clearance.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...