/ rubbish at climbing steep indoor routes!
im climbing 6a/6a+ when its straight, and maybe slight incline, but when it gets tough im straight off!
anyone got tips or training routines to practice my movements, positions, balance?
Boulder on steep stuff... lots of steep stuff
Try Neil Gresham's Masterclass part 1. Got a section on steep stuff and will show you what to do :-)
This may be helpful, I think it may be the masterclass climbwhenready is referring to.
Improve your climbing
It is :-)
It might sound obvious, but simply constantly trying steep routes/problems over and over again will get you strong on them. Obviously good technique is key i.e. making good use of your feet to take as much weight as possible, keeping your arms straight rather than bent.
Totally endorse what Jimbo said - even if you're not into bouldering (I'm stunningly crap at it), you can still use it as a 'laboratory' for route climbing.
Watch better climbers on boulder problems you've climbed/attempted. Zero in on their technique - arms straight, hips in, Egyptians, 'building your feet', then pushing through from your toes, heel hooking, knee bars, etc, etc.
Think feet, not arms. I know that sounds counter-intuitive.
Take it easy. Don't be in a rush (otherwise you'll get injured and you'll be back to square one.) Give it time. It's a life-long process. And you've got the rest of your life.
As the Yanks say, "Enjoy the process..."
Great advice but what do you do if you don't enjoy the process? :-)
Another easier option to keep it fun is playing "climbing footsie" on a steep lab or vertical wall..
Holds can only used for you hands once you've 'earn't them' by touching them with a foot first. I helps train:
-Using the outside edge of your shoes.
-Staying side on to the wall.
-Keeping your arms straight.
-It gets you used to not being vertical
You do look a bit ridiculous doing it, but's also great fun too.
Just work on your technique. Play around a bit to find what's right for you. I am actually reading "the self coached climber" right now. Only the first chapter so far but there is one off wall and one on wall balance exersise I've come across which could help you understand the importance of balance a little more. I think it would help!
Also are you warming up properly before? That can make a big difference.
You could work on your stamina/endurance by finding a long, vertical 5, and climb it 3 or 4 times without a break. Don't rest between climbs, but rest on the wall. That should help.
I read so much rubbish on here about learn more technique.... how much do you need? At some point you're going to have to pull hard so train strength by bouldering steep stuff. It is much easier to play with technique when you are strong and fit enough to adjust and experience different body positions before falling off with fatigue or pump.
also lots of pullups (palm facing away)
I wasn't being as facetious as it might have seemed. Unlike me (pass the stick-clip, missus), GridNorth is more than up to the job.
Excellent. But I'm running out of them :-(
As someone who is very weak but is just about getting the hang of steep 6a/6a+ indoors, I think it is much more about the technique than the strength. I learned all my twisting and turning from doing steep stuff bouldering, where getting the right technique (mostly by asking for help!) meant that problems went from being completely impossible to entirely possible, even easy.
Best bit of advice I've received is aim to climb to your weaknesses and not your strengths-that'll build your technique. If you can climb 6a on a vertical wall then drop down to a 5 or 5+ on an overhanging wall. The grade may be easier, but you'll be challenging yourself by climbing in a style you're not so good at.
Time spent on juggy holdson overhanging 5's will help teach you about technique, body position and resting etc. You can then apply this to harder and steeper routes.
But most of all, enjoy... :-)
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