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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (356) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=575183
mbh - Good miles there as normal.
mrchewey - on his death bed with the flu.
IainRUK - Glad to see you're back on the way to your normal miles
Tyler - Well done on the 10k PB
Joughton - Hope you're over the cold. The motivation will come back I'm sure.
grubes - sounds like a good Brimham session there
Si Cox - always best to ease up before you get totally shutdown with a major injury
martin_longmuir - How did the core workout a day go?
mattrm - TRY HARDER YOU USELESS FATTY!!! EAT LESS!!! But you had a good weekend in Scotland at least.
Sankey - Getting ready for Siruana, having a good week
Nomics4sale - Lots of running and a few good sessions there. Well done. When the xmas bulge comes off you'll fly up stuff!
hms - Lots of riding and some good core sessions in there.
exile - Well done one the VI 6, that's effort there. What's Anvil Gully like? Would it make a good first IV?
Eagle River - Hows Spain going? Having fun? Got the 7a?
Ally Smith - Well done on the weights PB and the 7B+es
AndrewW - Buy a helmet you spod. Where's the proj?
Dandan82 - well done on the 7b
Jamming Dodger - Lots of time on the bike there. Nice.
biscuit - Well done on the v5s
Nick Rusell - Well jel of the snowboarding. Sounds like you had a good time. Re injury - have you thought about doing a 'prehab' anti injury workout? Yoga is good as well.
pork pie girl - As always, I have to have a rest day just reading about your workouts... Well done for the immense effort
JimmyKay - You're quite the runner now it seems. Some good times and sessions this week. Keep it up.
stevemarkperry - That's a lot of MTBing there.
Luke Owens - Well done on the V7s and the epic lapping on the 6c+ and the outdoor V4
Humperdink - Lots of solid miles there. Welcome back.
Ali - Glad to see you're getting back on to the training.
Who's doing the posts for the next few weeks:
26/1 - Eagle River
02/2 - mbh
09/2 - Eagle River
16/2 - Eagle River
23/2 - mbh
02/3 - mbh
So Eagle River next.
Well done to everyone. Keep up the hard work in these grim months, it'll all come good when the summer comes, so keep it up!
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (356) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=575183
mbh - Good miles there as normal.
mrchewey - on his death bed with the flu.
IainRUK - Glad to see you're back on the way to your normal miles
Tyler - Well done on the 10k PB
Joughton - Hope you're over the cold. The motivation will come back I'm sure.
grubes - sounds like a good Brimham session there
Si Cox - always best to ease up before you get totally shutdown with a major injury
martin_longmuir - How did the core workout a day go?
mattrm - TRY HARDER YOU USELESS FATTY!!! EAT LESS!!! But you had a good weekend in Scotland at least.
Sankey - Getting ready for Siruana, having a good week
Nomics4sale - Lots of running and a few good sessions there. Well done. When the xmas bulge comes off you'll fly up stuff!
hms - Lots of riding and some good core sessions in there.
exile - Well done one the VI 6, that's effort there. What's Anvil Gully like? Would it make a good first IV?
Eagle River - Hows Spain going? Having fun? Got the 7a?
Ally Smith - Well done on the weights PB and the 7B+es
AndrewW - Buy a helmet you spod. Where's the proj?
Dandan82 - well done on the 7b
Jamming Dodger - Lots of time on the bike there. Nice.
biscuit - Well done on the v5s
Nick Rusell - Well jel of the snowboarding. Sounds like you had a good time. Re injury - have you thought about doing a 'prehab' anti injury workout? Yoga is good as well.
pork pie girl - As always, I have to have a rest day just reading about your workouts... Well done for the immense effort
JimmyKay - You're quite the runner now it seems. Some good times and sessions this week. Keep it up.
stevemarkperry - That's a lot of MTBing there.
Luke Owens - Well done on the V7s and the epic lapping on the 6c+ and the outdoor V4
Humperdink - Lots of solid miles there. Welcome back.
Ali - Glad to see you're getting back on to the training.
Who's doing the posts for the next few weeks:
26/1 - Eagle River
02/2 - mbh
09/2 - Eagle River
16/2 - Eagle River
23/2 - mbh
02/3 - mbh
So Eagle River next.
Well done to everyone. Keep up the hard work in these grim months, it'll all come good when the summer comes, so keep it up!
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt
I got the 7a onsight but overall the trip was pretty unproductive. Mainly this was due to the weather, plenty of rain over the week meant we only climbed 5 out of a possible 8 days. The weather also dictated crag choice which led us to some unfamiliar and poorly documented crags. Also, the single-minded goal of 7a/7a+ onsight meant a lot of walking between sectors looking for specific routes rather than ticking a load of routes of different grades. We also found two of the more well travelled crags we went to were really busy so we'd head to a sector to find only 1 of the 5 7a's free.
I'm a massive coward on unfamiliar ground but on certain crags I was happy to push it (like Frontales) but on slabby/tenuous/unobvious stuff I was rubbish. Unfortunately we only had 1 day at Frontales and it was busy.
Overall we did a LOT of walking, a LOT of eating and not all that much climbing. It was a risk going at this time (with the weather) and we didn't get lucky. Lessons learnt for next trip.
Thanks Matt
I got the 7a onsight but overall the trip was pretty unproductive. Mainly this was due to the weather, plenty of rain over the week meant we only climbed 5 out of a possible 8 days. The weather also dictated crag choice which led us to some unfamiliar and poorly documented crags. Also, the single-minded goal of 7a/7a+ onsight meant a lot of walking between sectors looking for specific routes rather than ticking a load of routes of different grades. We also found two of the more well travelled crags we went to were really busy so we'd head to a sector to find only 1 of the 5 7a's free.
I'm a massive coward on unfamiliar ground but on certain crags I was happy to push it (like Frontales) but on slabby/tenuous/unobvious stuff I was rubbish. Unfortunately we only had 1 day at Frontales and it was busy.
Overall we did a LOT of walking, a LOT of eating and not all that much climbing. It was a risk going at this time (with the weather) and we didn't get lucky. Lessons learnt for next trip.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for the summary Matt. Project in Cyprus btw.
Arm still a bit knackered so nothing climbing related this week.
M - Resting.
T - 40 mins run.
W - 2 hr hilly hike.
T - Resting.
F - 40 min run.
S - 1 hr hilly hike. Flexibility and core exercises.
S - Resting.
Thanks for the summary Matt. Project in Cyprus btw.
Arm still a bit knackered so nothing climbing related this week.
M - Resting.
T - 40 mins run.
W - 2 hr hilly hike.
T - Resting.
F - 40 min run.
S - 1 hr hilly hike. Flexibility and core exercises.
S - Resting.
In reply to mattrm:
Okay I'm signing up to fit club. Thanks for organising the thread.
Currently: Boulder 6B+ish. Riding 80km on road bike. Not really doing any roped climbing. 75kg.
STG: Boulder 7A, redpoint 7b. do a 100km ride. Lose weight to 72/73kg.
MTG: Boulder 7B (specific project at local spot), redpoint 7c. Ride Etape Eryri (160km) in Snowdonia in June. Lose weight to under 70kg.
LTG: Redpoint 8a.
Monday-Thursday were a write off due to illness
Friday: bouldering at local wall. First time in fortnight. Felt good.
Sat: Mexican food yum.
Sunday: Its raining. Currently typing this in my garage after a couple of hours on my home wall. Felt good.
Okay I'm signing up to fit club. Thanks for organising the thread.
Currently: Boulder 6B+ish. Riding 80km on road bike. Not really doing any roped climbing. 75kg.
STG: Boulder 7A, redpoint 7b. do a 100km ride. Lose weight to 72/73kg.
MTG: Boulder 7B (specific project at local spot), redpoint 7c. Ride Etape Eryri (160km) in Snowdonia in June. Lose weight to under 70kg.
LTG: Redpoint 8a.
Monday-Thursday were a write off due to illness
Friday: bouldering at local wall. First time in fortnight. Felt good.
Sat: Mexican food yum.
Sunday: Its raining. Currently typing this in my garage after a couple of hours on my home wall. Felt good.
Post edited at 13:18
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for doing FC
Anvil Gully was steady for the grade, had good rock gear all the way up and can be run as one pitch on 60m ropes, so not a bad first IV actually.
Aims for the year:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
M: Nothing
T: 1hr PE traverses at wall - not a great session because of toe pain
W: 40 min weights & core
T: Rest
F: 1hr dry tooling
S: Rest
S: 1hr 30min PE traverses at wall - orange both ways and blue R - L, (6c+ ish?)
Weight this morning 11st 9lb - 2lb loss from last week
Easier week for me due to bruised toes from new winter boots last Sunday - no running and rock shoes painful until today. Dry tooling session good though - keen to keep the impetus from last weekend. Weight loss steady.
Thanks for doing FC
Anvil Gully was steady for the grade, had good rock gear all the way up and can be run as one pitch on 60m ropes, so not a bad first IV actually.
Aims for the year:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
M: Nothing
T: 1hr PE traverses at wall - not a great session because of toe pain
W: 40 min weights & core
T: Rest
F: 1hr dry tooling
S: Rest
S: 1hr 30min PE traverses at wall - orange both ways and blue R - L, (6c+ ish?)
Weight this morning 11st 9lb - 2lb loss from last week
Easier week for me due to bruised toes from new winter boots last Sunday - no running and rock shoes painful until today. Dry tooling session good though - keen to keep the impetus from last weekend. Weight loss steady.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for the stats mattrm. Yeah I go to yoga classes once a week and stretch frequently. Not specifically 'prehab' but probably enough. If I'm more careful with running volume, I should be able to avoid a repeat of last summer. Really, it's the unexpected things I'm worried about: I had a near miss last autumn with a lightly sprained ankle falling off a route, and another with hyperextending my finger falling over running on New year's day (still a bit sore, but doesn't seem to get aggravated by climbing). Either that or shoulder overtraining issues, the combination of swimming and climbing will be pretty tough on them.
M - Fingerboard (ok, but not spectacular session). Swimming (2.5km)
T - Bouldering at TCA. Felt a bit weak after a couple of weeks off.
W - Swimming (2.6km). 1400m of this was fly, urgh! This is the when I start to regret going to coached sessions, I don't get to make up the set and do what I want :p
T - Bouldering at TCA. Mostly on the traverses. They grade hard (/just plain wrong) there.
F - Rest
S - Climbing at UCR. 8 easy routes, 3 attempts on one 7a, 1 on another. I find indoor routes way harder than outdoors! How is it that I can tick 7b in 3 goes at Cheddar, but 7a indoors seems so far off?
S - 10km run (4:57/km)
A good week, a little short on my planned volume for the next month (missing a yoga class and a core session). I'm a little behind where I was at the wall last year, but that should come back quickly. Looking out of the window at the glorious weather, I feel like I should have gone climbing today - Brean or Avon would have been ideal.
In fact, I'm not sure why I didn't. I keep telling myself that I've done a lot already this week, and don't want to risk injury, but I don't think I'm at that stage yet... I've just started reading Dave Mac's "9 out of 10 Climbers..." and it's made me wonder if the real reason is ego: I didn't expect to be able to climb anything hard after a heavy week, so didn't want to show myself up in front of any of my partners. Mental note to keep an eye on this, and not make a habit of missing good weather opportunities (letting traning get in the way of getting better).
Short term goals (January)
Just get back into my usual training load after Christmas etc. Getting there, a couple of sessions short of my planned load this week.
Make a training plan for the medium-term. Swimming coach is going to focus on aerobic fitness until the end of Feb. I'll focus on high volume of climbing for the next 7 weeks (2x3 week blocks with a step back in the middle) then hit the bouldering for the end of March/start of April onwards!
Medium term goals (March/April)
Some winter climbing. Not a particularly inspiring forecast this weekend, so I wasn't willing to make the drive
Stick to the training plan that I finalise this month with the intention of being on good form for the Cheddar summer season (April-June). Just starting this, let's see how it goes.
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Current best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Total to date: 0
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 20/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in e.g. 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr. Coach informs me there are plenty of galas in March/April.
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
> Nick Rusell - Well jel of the snowboarding. Sounds like you had a good time. Re injury - have you thought about doing a 'prehab' anti injury workout? Yoga is good as well.
Thanks for the stats mattrm. Yeah I go to yoga classes once a week and stretch frequently. Not specifically 'prehab' but probably enough. If I'm more careful with running volume, I should be able to avoid a repeat of last summer. Really, it's the unexpected things I'm worried about: I had a near miss last autumn with a lightly sprained ankle falling off a route, and another with hyperextending my finger falling over running on New year's day (still a bit sore, but doesn't seem to get aggravated by climbing). Either that or shoulder overtraining issues, the combination of swimming and climbing will be pretty tough on them.
M - Fingerboard (ok, but not spectacular session). Swimming (2.5km)
T - Bouldering at TCA. Felt a bit weak after a couple of weeks off.
W - Swimming (2.6km). 1400m of this was fly, urgh! This is the when I start to regret going to coached sessions, I don't get to make up the set and do what I want :p
T - Bouldering at TCA. Mostly on the traverses. They grade hard (/just plain wrong) there.
F - Rest
S - Climbing at UCR. 8 easy routes, 3 attempts on one 7a, 1 on another. I find indoor routes way harder than outdoors! How is it that I can tick 7b in 3 goes at Cheddar, but 7a indoors seems so far off?
S - 10km run (4:57/km)
A good week, a little short on my planned volume for the next month (missing a yoga class and a core session). I'm a little behind where I was at the wall last year, but that should come back quickly. Looking out of the window at the glorious weather, I feel like I should have gone climbing today - Brean or Avon would have been ideal.
In fact, I'm not sure why I didn't. I keep telling myself that I've done a lot already this week, and don't want to risk injury, but I don't think I'm at that stage yet... I've just started reading Dave Mac's "9 out of 10 Climbers..." and it's made me wonder if the real reason is ego: I didn't expect to be able to climb anything hard after a heavy week, so didn't want to show myself up in front of any of my partners. Mental note to keep an eye on this, and not make a habit of missing good weather opportunities (letting traning get in the way of getting better).
Short term goals (January)
Just get back into my usual training load after Christmas etc. Getting there, a couple of sessions short of my planned load this week.
Make a training plan for the medium-term. Swimming coach is going to focus on aerobic fitness until the end of Feb. I'll focus on high volume of climbing for the next 7 weeks (2x3 week blocks with a step back in the middle) then hit the bouldering for the end of March/start of April onwards!
Medium term goals (March/April)
Some winter climbing. Not a particularly inspiring forecast this weekend, so I wasn't willing to make the drive
Stick to the training plan that I finalise this month with the intention of being on good form for the Cheddar summer season (April-June). Just starting this, let's see how it goes.
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Current best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Total to date: 0
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 20/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in e.g. 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr. Coach informs me there are plenty of galas in March/April.
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
In reply to Nick Russell: which 7as at UCR? there is a world of difference between them! Try the black and green opposite the tea hatch. Totally agree with you about the TCA circuit board grades. Anything set by Ollie is likely to be really reachy and require unsubtle hurling rather than delicate footwork IMHO.
In reply to mattrm:
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK - Tick
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
MTG (June 2014):
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
???
This week's goals:
Climb something in the 6's - Tick!!!!!
Climb in the peak
M: Rest
T: Rest
T: Rokt. Bored circuit board flash. Bouldered a bit. worked my problem a bit
F: Rest
S: Depot. Best round in a comp ever but think it was an easy set. Nice
S: Wet start holmfirth session warmed up traversing avoiding damp then went to the harder section worked the 7A not much luck then got on Old lace and after a fruitless start. it eventually started to make sense. I did the crux twice but dropped the easier top move. Long rest then very close. another rest and Boom!!! ticked Old lace was graded 7A last week but got down graded on thursday to 6C. Oh well still happy to climb 6C again
Next week Goals:
Climb in a busy week
Really happy with the tick
> grubes - sounds like a good Brimham session there
Yea it was Thanks MattSTG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK - Tick
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
MTG (June 2014):
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
???
This week's goals:
Climb something in the 6's - Tick!!!!!
Climb in the peak
M: Rest
T: Rest
T: Rokt. Bored circuit board flash. Bouldered a bit. worked my problem a bit
F: Rest
S: Depot. Best round in a comp ever but think it was an easy set. Nice
S: Wet start holmfirth session warmed up traversing avoiding damp then went to the harder section worked the 7A not much luck then got on Old lace and after a fruitless start. it eventually started to make sense. I did the crux twice but dropped the easier top move. Long rest then very close. another rest and Boom!!! ticked Old lace was graded 7A last week but got down graded on thursday to 6C. Oh well still happy to climb 6C again
Next week Goals:
Climb in a busy week
Really happy with the tick
In reply to mattrm: quite a good mixed week, despite feeling utterly crap for most of it - is there something going round? Felt like someone was shoving a skewer into my head via my right eye for days on end!
M: cycle commute 9 miles
T: cycle commute, long fingerboard session in evening
W: cycle commute, then bulk easy routes in up-down-up triples, 18 all told, almost all at 6b, knackered
T: cycle commute
F: TCA problems, forced myself to try the rest of the redpoint comp ones, just to see where I could get to. Also some other harder problems, generally not getting to the top though.
S: core and fingerboard session
S: UCR 6a 6 / 6b+ 6b / 6b+, 7a, 7a, 6c+, 6b+, 6b+ not that many routes but pleased. The 7a I came off at my usual place, but managed to grab back on and monkey up the overhang to work the move. Found a lovely elegant little trick to do the crux - blokes just see to use annoying bloke-strength and thug it flat on. I can't do that, but stepping through with a high left foot worked beautifully. Got it clean next go. Now to try to crush the yellow 7a by the cupboards!
M: cycle commute 9 miles
T: cycle commute, long fingerboard session in evening
W: cycle commute, then bulk easy routes in up-down-up triples, 18 all told, almost all at 6b, knackered
T: cycle commute
F: TCA problems, forced myself to try the rest of the redpoint comp ones, just to see where I could get to. Also some other harder problems, generally not getting to the top though.
S: core and fingerboard session
S: UCR 6a 6 / 6b+ 6b / 6b+, 7a, 7a, 6c+, 6b+, 6b+ not that many routes but pleased. The 7a I came off at my usual place, but managed to grab back on and monkey up the overhang to work the move. Found a lovely elegant little trick to do the crux - blokes just see to use annoying bloke-strength and thug it flat on. I can't do that, but stepping through with a high left foot worked beautifully. Got it clean next go. Now to try to crush the yellow 7a by the cupboards!
In reply to mattrm: Thanks for taking Fit Club this week Matt.
Decent week for me, managed three wall sessions as well as mocks, illness, and going out. Finally feeling like I've got a good balance going on after a year and a half of college!
Mon - AW Stockport, leading ladder session. Onsighted everything up to the 7a (which was wellard!) but failed on the crazy last move of the 7b. Will return to try the 7c and 8a.
Tue - rest
Wed - MCC routes session. Warmed then did a 7a and 7b I'd done before. Tried a 7c+ on a toprope, managed all the moves easily but I couldn't get close to linking them. Too strong but no fitness! Finished off trying to improve that by throwing four laps on the 7a. I was pleased to get them all clean because its a toughie.
Thur - rest
Fri - lazy...
Sat - AW Sheffield. Good session training-wise, very poor in terms of tickage. Warmed up on a easy 6b and a desperate 6c, then pumped out on the second to last move of a big 7a+ crossing the roof. On sighted a 7a then got no where on harder stuff, absolutely boxed and couldn't recover.
Sun - out late last night so I'm currently trying to muster the determination for a fingerboard session!
Cheers, Jake
Decent week for me, managed three wall sessions as well as mocks, illness, and going out. Finally feeling like I've got a good balance going on after a year and a half of college!
Mon - AW Stockport, leading ladder session. Onsighted everything up to the 7a (which was wellard!) but failed on the crazy last move of the 7b. Will return to try the 7c and 8a.
Tue - rest
Wed - MCC routes session. Warmed then did a 7a and 7b I'd done before. Tried a 7c+ on a toprope, managed all the moves easily but I couldn't get close to linking them. Too strong but no fitness! Finished off trying to improve that by throwing four laps on the 7a. I was pleased to get them all clean because its a toughie.
Thur - rest
Fri - lazy...
Sat - AW Sheffield. Good session training-wise, very poor in terms of tickage. Warmed up on a easy 6b and a desperate 6c, then pumped out on the second to last move of a big 7a+ crossing the roof. On sighted a 7a then got no where on harder stuff, absolutely boxed and couldn't recover.
Sun - out late last night so I'm currently trying to muster the determination for a fingerboard session!
Cheers, Jake
In reply to mattrm:
Yes it was a strong week that. I've tapered down to an easy week this week with just 7.25 training hours, ready for another ramp-up starting tomorrow.
This Week:
Weight: 137.8 lbs
Training hours: 7.25
Mountain bike distance: 87km
M: A rest day. Walk at The Roaches and 15mins pottering about on a highball boulder problem.
T: 45mins turbo
W: 1hr 30mins mountain bike
T: 45mins turbo
F: 1hr 45mins mountain bike
S: Rest day, easy 15min leg spinner
S: 1hr 15mins walk and easy scrambling
Edit: Incorrect stats
Yes it was a strong week that. I've tapered down to an easy week this week with just 7.25 training hours, ready for another ramp-up starting tomorrow.
This Week:
Weight: 137.8 lbs
Training hours: 7.25
Mountain bike distance: 87km
M: A rest day. Walk at The Roaches and 15mins pottering about on a highball boulder problem.
T: 45mins turbo
W: 1hr 30mins mountain bike
T: 45mins turbo
F: 1hr 45mins mountain bike
S: Rest day, easy 15min leg spinner
S: 1hr 15mins walk and easy scrambling
Edit: Incorrect stats
Post edited at 18:31
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers, a distinct lack of mileage this week - very frustrating!
M: am - steady run to work 31:05 pm - steady run home 58:07 13M total
Tu: sore throat so no running
W-Su - Ill!
Total Mileage - 13M. Not a good time to get ill this week as next Sat is the South of England XC Champs. At time of writing I feel crud so doubtful I'll be on the start line.
Goals: STG (Feb/Mar) - Finish in top 3 overall in XC league. Beat last years position in the National XC Champs. Represent county at the Inter-counties XC
MTG (April-Aug) - Make the A team for the 12-Stage road relays. Improve my track PB's (sub-2 800, sub-4 1500, sub-15 5K)
LTG (end of 2014) - Sub-31 10K, Run a half
Hope everyone had a more productive week!
Cheers, a distinct lack of mileage this week - very frustrating!
M: am - steady run to work 31:05 pm - steady run home 58:07 13M total
Tu: sore throat so no running
W-Su - Ill!
Total Mileage - 13M. Not a good time to get ill this week as next Sat is the South of England XC Champs. At time of writing I feel crud so doubtful I'll be on the start line.
Goals: STG (Feb/Mar) - Finish in top 3 overall in XC league. Beat last years position in the National XC Champs. Represent county at the Inter-counties XC
MTG (April-Aug) - Make the A team for the 12-Stage road relays. Improve my track PB's (sub-2 800, sub-4 1500, sub-15 5K)
LTG (end of 2014) - Sub-31 10K, Run a half
Hope everyone had a more productive week!
In reply to mattrm: Minor hiccup this week due to a wheelie bin inflicted back strain(!), is getting better quick though, but being very cautious on climbing with my trip in two weeks time. Started tracking my runs on Strava, not really that fussed on improving times etc, but at least it provides some extra interest...
M: Off road run 4.6 miles (9.47 pace - in the dark)
T: Matrix - New 6b+ - slight back tweak
W: Back strain via wheelie bin pushing!
T:
F:
S: Run 4.6 miles (9.20 pace)
S:
STG: Get ready for Siruana - no really ambitious aims, just want to get on quality at around 6b+ to 7a.
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
M: Off road run 4.6 miles (9.47 pace - in the dark)
T: Matrix - New 6b+ - slight back tweak
W: Back strain via wheelie bin pushing!
T:
F:
S: Run 4.6 miles (9.20 pace)
S:
STG: Get ready for Siruana - no really ambitious aims, just want to get on quality at around 6b+ to 7a.
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt.
M - 10.6 m
T - 7.3 m
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - 10.7 m , partly on the coast path
S - 16.1 m
S - 16.0 m, then later another 4.4 m, trying to help my wife get out for a run.
Managed 65 miles, of which only 12 were at sub 7:30 pace , and 1550 m of ascent. Not so many puddles this week, and they weren't so deep.
Coming up is a 20 mile mixed terrain event in March (the Grizzly, which I would like to do in 3:30 or less. Last time was five years ago, in 3:58), and a BG attempt in May, my chances for which I am not sure about. I need to try some longer days out now to get a better feel for that.
Thanks Matt.
M - 10.6 m
T - 7.3 m
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - 10.7 m , partly on the coast path
S - 16.1 m
S - 16.0 m, then later another 4.4 m, trying to help my wife get out for a run.
Managed 65 miles, of which only 12 were at sub 7:30 pace , and 1550 m of ascent. Not so many puddles this week, and they weren't so deep.
Coming up is a 20 mile mixed terrain event in March (the Grizzly, which I would like to do in 3:30 or less. Last time was five years ago, in 3:58), and a BG attempt in May, my chances for which I am not sure about. I need to try some longer days out now to get a better feel for that.
In reply to hms:
The one I had 3 tries on was black with spots (green or pink?). You know that bay with the less steep routes in (and often an instructor and group of kids), with the sharp arete on its right? It was on the wall the other side of that arete, a flat wall (no roof) at a decent but not excessive overhang. It's all pretty straightforward crimping, but just relentless.
I had one attempt at the pink one in the corner near the entrance to the toproping area. Contorted bridging (I like that) up to a crux through the roof, and a few moves up to the top. I reckon that one would go ok if it wasn't the last route of the session.
Are you around Tuesday for a session at UCR?
> which 7as at UCR?
The one I had 3 tries on was black with spots (green or pink?). You know that bay with the less steep routes in (and often an instructor and group of kids), with the sharp arete on its right? It was on the wall the other side of that arete, a flat wall (no roof) at a decent but not excessive overhang. It's all pretty straightforward crimping, but just relentless.
I had one attempt at the pink one in the corner near the entrance to the toproping area. Contorted bridging (I like that) up to a crux through the roof, and a few moves up to the top. I reckon that one would go ok if it wasn't the last route of the session.
Are you around Tuesday for a session at UCR?
In reply to grubes:
Forgot to add
STG:
buy bike
learn how to ride again
MTG:
Cycle london to huddersfield over 3 days for Yorkshire Air Ambulance
Forgot to add
STG:
buy bike
learn how to ride again
MTG:
Cycle london to huddersfield over 3 days for Yorkshire Air Ambulance
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for statting it up Mattrm, the 7b was'nt clean but it was at least all moves completed with no injury issues so I was pleased too.
Another good solid week, I feel really good in myself, I came out of the gym the other night after doing core and just felt like a million dollars, really psyched, really positive.
M: Cardio; rower 2k 8.25
Chest; bench, incline press, flat flys, dips, tricep pull downs
T: Core; l hangs, knee raises with twist, front levers (knees bent)
W: Shoulder; Front raise, lateral raise, dumbell press, rotator stretches
T: Climb Indoor; Boulder 30 mins, routes 6a+ 6b 7a 6b+ 6c 6c+ 6b
F:
S:
S: Climb Indoor; 90 mins, routes but no grades
So the climb on thursday was weird, I got pumped to hell really quickly to the point where I was falling off a 6b at the end of the session, something that would never normally happen. Getting pumped is a bit alien to me, i seemed to somehow train it out before my shoulder injury, I ran out of finger strength and fell off, but I never got pumped. Now i've had it two weeks running and i'm really hoping I can train it out again because its a real pain (figuratively and literally)
The climb today was great, they reset the entire small wall near us and had yet to put grades on so we just tried everything! Must have done 12-15 routes (its only short) and some good tough stuff (plus no sign of the pump) so it was very positive.
My short term goals are all outdoor reliant at the mo so i'm going for an indoor one, I think it's about time I redpointed a 7b. Yeah that seems a good target.
I'd also like to get under 8 mins for 2k on the rower and bench 80kg for 4+ reps but as they aren't climbing related they aren't super important on here.
Thanks for statting it up Mattrm, the 7b was'nt clean but it was at least all moves completed with no injury issues so I was pleased too.
Another good solid week, I feel really good in myself, I came out of the gym the other night after doing core and just felt like a million dollars, really psyched, really positive.
M: Cardio; rower 2k 8.25
Chest; bench, incline press, flat flys, dips, tricep pull downs
T: Core; l hangs, knee raises with twist, front levers (knees bent)
W: Shoulder; Front raise, lateral raise, dumbell press, rotator stretches
T: Climb Indoor; Boulder 30 mins, routes 6a+ 6b 7a 6b+ 6c 6c+ 6b
F:
S:
S: Climb Indoor; 90 mins, routes but no grades
So the climb on thursday was weird, I got pumped to hell really quickly to the point where I was falling off a 6b at the end of the session, something that would never normally happen. Getting pumped is a bit alien to me, i seemed to somehow train it out before my shoulder injury, I ran out of finger strength and fell off, but I never got pumped. Now i've had it two weeks running and i'm really hoping I can train it out again because its a real pain (figuratively and literally)
The climb today was great, they reset the entire small wall near us and had yet to put grades on so we just tried everything! Must have done 12-15 routes (its only short) and some good tough stuff (plus no sign of the pump) so it was very positive.
My short term goals are all outdoor reliant at the mo so i'm going for an indoor one, I think it's about time I redpointed a 7b. Yeah that seems a good target.
I'd also like to get under 8 mins for 2k on the rower and bench 80kg for 4+ reps but as they aren't climbing related they aren't super important on here.
Ah yes, the corkscrew wall? Possibly a black and yellow spotty? It's all fine apart from a heinous sloper by about the 6th clip. I've only managed to get past the sloper once. The pink ones with the brains I can't do the move under the top overhang where you've got to take a fairly confident pop left off another horrendous sloper. The bridging/groove bit is excellent though!
I think I'm climbing with Kate on Tues evening as her exams finally finish that day. I could be around on Friday afternoon though, if that would be any good?
I think I'm climbing with Kate on Tues evening as her exams finally finish that day. I could be around on Friday afternoon though, if that would be any good?
In reply to hms:
Yes, the one with the sloper! I actually find that ok, and can get the next clip fine from a (relatively) big RH sidepull, but then fail on the final two moves (well, the last clip is hard, but I could either do it from the same sidepull as the previous one or run it out to the top). Friday afternoon would be fine. What sort of time? My number is 07813 453026.
Yes, the one with the sloper! I actually find that ok, and can get the next clip fine from a (relatively) big RH sidepull, but then fail on the final two moves (well, the last clip is hard, but I could either do it from the same sidepull as the previous one or run it out to the top). Friday afternoon would be fine. What sort of time? My number is 07813 453026.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks.. decent week,
m: 14.1 mile road run
t: lunch: 7 miles trail. pm: 10 miles road 6:43 pace.
w: 13.3 mile road and trail run
t: 10 miler roads 8:30 pace
f: lunch: 4 mile road run. pm: 7.5 mile road and trail run Harz
s: 18.9 mile trail run Harz mountains
s: lunch: 10 mile trail run Harz. pm: 5.1 mile road run Rostock
102 miles for the week. So happy enough to be getting the miles back in.
Thanks.. decent week,
m: 14.1 mile road run
t: lunch: 7 miles trail. pm: 10 miles road 6:43 pace.
w: 13.3 mile road and trail run
t: 10 miler roads 8:30 pace
f: lunch: 4 mile road run. pm: 7.5 mile road and trail run Harz
s: 18.9 mile trail run Harz mountains
s: lunch: 10 mile trail run Harz. pm: 5.1 mile road run Rostock
102 miles for the week. So happy enough to be getting the miles back in.
2In reply to Nick Russell:
2pm at UCR?
2pm at UCR?
In reply to mattrm:
Ta Matt... was still dying till Wed. Miraculous recovery and back to work on Thu but the lungs are screwed.
Fri - Boulder room for a new set. Flashed all 18 V0 problems with no rest and had to go home. Utterly shagged :-[
Sat - Same as above.
Sun - Stanage Plantation. Gopping when we got there but quickly dried by lunch. Did some slabs up to V2. Unexpectedly seconded Tower Face Direct and found it fair steady. A good afternoon.
Not a lover of grit or Stanage but had a fantastic day. So much better in the winter! The friction was brilliant, it just took some adjusting to. Only bouldered up to V2 but managed most everything I tried. Then had the chance to second the E2 and fair cruised up it even with stuck gear. Which pleasantly surprised me - I could almost enjoy climbing on this stuff!
Ta Matt... was still dying till Wed. Miraculous recovery and back to work on Thu but the lungs are screwed.
Fri - Boulder room for a new set. Flashed all 18 V0 problems with no rest and had to go home. Utterly shagged :-[
Sat - Same as above.
Sun - Stanage Plantation. Gopping when we got there but quickly dried by lunch. Did some slabs up to V2. Unexpectedly seconded Tower Face Direct and found it fair steady. A good afternoon.
Not a lover of grit or Stanage but had a fantastic day. So much better in the winter! The friction was brilliant, it just took some adjusting to. Only bouldered up to V2 but managed most everything I tried. Then had the chance to second the E2 and fair cruised up it even with stuck gear. Which pleasantly surprised me - I could almost enjoy climbing on this stuff!
In reply to mattrm:
Ok so firstly an apology for being totally and utterly rubbish and completely forgetting I was supposed to do fit club last week - thanks to Nick for stepping in. Only excuse is being slightly preoccupied over the last few weeks with job application/interview. But not really an excuse, so sorry again for letting the team down.
Overall goals:
- climb 7c
- get better at falling
Short term goal:
- climb 2 x 7a/+ and 1 x 7b in Chulilla
This week:
M - rest
T - Street orienteering - first lady. Forgot to start my watch, but flukily managed to come in 30secs early.
W -
T - Biscuit Factory - power session on steep, big-move problems.
F - AM - run to work (5.5 miles) - bit slower than usual but was carrying a pack
PM - Routes at Reach - stamina session, good forearm pump but nothing particularly hard
S - rest
S - Routes at Westway - really good session - got a 7a second go (first 7 indoors), onsighted a 6c, got on the steep wall and did lots of scary falling practice on the dreaded stepped roof wall.
Ok so firstly an apology for being totally and utterly rubbish and completely forgetting I was supposed to do fit club last week - thanks to Nick for stepping in. Only excuse is being slightly preoccupied over the last few weeks with job application/interview. But not really an excuse, so sorry again for letting the team down.
Overall goals:
- climb 7c
- get better at falling
Short term goal:
- climb 2 x 7a/+ and 1 x 7b in Chulilla
This week:
M - rest
T - Street orienteering - first lady. Forgot to start my watch, but flukily managed to come in 30secs early.
W -
T - Biscuit Factory - power session on steep, big-move problems.
F - AM - run to work (5.5 miles) - bit slower than usual but was carrying a pack
PM - Routes at Reach - stamina session, good forearm pump but nothing particularly hard
S - rest
S - Routes at Westway - really good session - got a 7a second go (first 7 indoors), onsighted a 6c, got on the steep wall and did lots of scary falling practice on the dreaded stepped roof wall.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for doing fit club.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3 TICK!) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 6lbs
M - Rest
T - Fingerboard sesh
W - Yoga (90 mins)
T - Routes + bouldering @ boulders
F - Rest
S - 250 dish tucks
S - 300 dish tucks + other core + 15 mins yoga
Good week bouldering wise. Manage to climb my first V3. Not really trying, on a session that I'd sort of written off I jumped on a V3. Quickly found my self eying the finishing hold. Had a moment of 'shit it'll be annoying if I flub this' and then grabbed the hold. Otherwise got an ok amount of yoga and stuff in. Went to yoga class properly for the first time in a while. Diet was good till the weekend (there's a theme there...) and then when I was at my parents I ate crap.
3 core - 2
4 yoga - 2
2 indoor climbs (or 1 climb, 1 fingerboard) - 2
Good diet - good till weekend
Next week goals:
3 core
3 yoga
2 climbs
1 fingerboard
Good diet at the weekend!!!
Thanks for doing fit club.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3 TICK!) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 6lbs
M - Rest
T - Fingerboard sesh
W - Yoga (90 mins)
T - Routes + bouldering @ boulders
F - Rest
S - 250 dish tucks
S - 300 dish tucks + other core + 15 mins yoga
Good week bouldering wise. Manage to climb my first V3. Not really trying, on a session that I'd sort of written off I jumped on a V3. Quickly found my self eying the finishing hold. Had a moment of 'shit it'll be annoying if I flub this' and then grabbed the hold. Otherwise got an ok amount of yoga and stuff in. Went to yoga class properly for the first time in a while. Diet was good till the weekend (there's a theme there...) and then when I was at my parents I ate crap.
3 core - 2
4 yoga - 2
2 indoor climbs (or 1 climb, 1 fingerboard) - 2
Good diet - good till weekend
Next week goals:
3 core
3 yoga
2 climbs
1 fingerboard
Good diet at the weekend!!!
Post edited at 22:49
In reply to mattrm:
Nick / Ally
If either of you guys do ever need a Scottish Winter partner, I'm keen. Have seconded IV 5/6, would be fine seconding V. Lead III 4 fine. Based in South Wales, but could travel up to where you live.
Nick / Ally
If either of you guys do ever need a Scottish Winter partner, I'm keen. Have seconded IV 5/6, would be fine seconding V. Lead III 4 fine. Based in South Wales, but could travel up to where you live.
In reply to Ali:
Good luck with the interviews applications. Staying in the city or looking to move nearer to rock?
Good luck with the interviews applications. Staying in the city or looking to move nearer to rock?
In reply to mattrm:
M - 5mile run 5.4miles (6:22min/mile)
T - Hill reps 3 sets of 5. Easy bouldering at the wall.
W - Club intervals, steady session. Crap weather.
T - Rest tendon niggle on back of knee, went climbing.
F - Rest tendon niggle, went to the gym. Worked core and antagonists.
S - Rest tendon niggle, bit of indoor leading up to 7b
S - Went for a run. Felt like death at the start. Knee was OK during the runs, lazy lungs were the problem in the cold weather. Ended up being more of an interval session, so I bagged a few segments cheaply and ran about 7miles. Then went climbing and did the comp, which I may have won or come second. Then went to the gym and did core. Ended up chilling in the Jacuzzi. Great exercise day.
Think I've got a bit of tendonitis in the cartlidge-y string bit at the back of my knee. Definitely overused them recently so hopefully just calm it down a little and it'll start to feel a bit better.
M - 5mile run 5.4miles (6:22min/mile)
T - Hill reps 3 sets of 5. Easy bouldering at the wall.
W - Club intervals, steady session. Crap weather.
T - Rest tendon niggle on back of knee, went climbing.
F - Rest tendon niggle, went to the gym. Worked core and antagonists.
S - Rest tendon niggle, bit of indoor leading up to 7b
S - Went for a run. Felt like death at the start. Knee was OK during the runs, lazy lungs were the problem in the cold weather. Ended up being more of an interval session, so I bagged a few segments cheaply and ran about 7miles. Then went climbing and did the comp, which I may have won or come second. Then went to the gym and did core. Ended up chilling in the Jacuzzi. Great exercise day.
Think I've got a bit of tendonitis in the cartlidge-y string bit at the back of my knee. Definitely overused them recently so hopefully just calm it down a little and it'll start to feel a bit better.
In reply to JimmyKay:
> S - Went for a run. Felt like death at the start. Knee was OK during the runs, lazy lungs were the problem in the cold weather. Ended up being more of an interval session, so I bagged a few segments cheaply and ran about 7miles. Then went climbing and did the comp, which I may have won or come second. Then went to the gym and did core. Ended up chilling in the Jacuzzi. Great exercise day.
That is a full week for most people. In reply to mattrm:
For various reasons I have missed a few weeks of fit club, so I will try and catch up.
STG (December / January): Consistent 45 mile + training weeks. Make the most of whatever conditions we get this winter and get out climbing ice and mixed. I am also trying to adapt to follow the principles of Matt Fitzgerald’s 2 Rule Diet, which is basically about ensuring a get enough high quality carbs without over eating, should be straightforward, but complicated by rarely eating at home at the moment.
MTG (February / March / April): Consistent 55 mile + training weeks, ½ Marathon personal best (currently 1:28:06, which is soft, mainly because I don’t run ½ marathons very often, I ran 1:26 during a 20 miler), Manchester Marathon, improve on last year, ideally under 3 hours. Make the most of whatever conditions we get this winter and get out climbing ice and mixed.
LTG (Rest of 2014): Maintain momentum with the running, concentrate on speed through the Summer, go sub 18 for 5k and sub 37 for 10k. Do more on the bike and maybe do one of the Big Swim events.
W/C Monday 30th December
M – Zip
T – 9 miles on the fells
W – 1 hour on turbo, 4 road run
T – 11 mile road run
F – Rest
S – 6 mile road run (it was a 17 mile hilly road run which I bailed out on after 3 mile and jogged home, ankle and hip pain that had been building all week)
S – Rest
Poor week, 30 miles, largely in pain.
W/C Monday 6th December
M – 1 hour on turbo
T – 1 hour on turbo
W - Working late
T – 1 hour on turbo
F – Working late
S – 1 hour on turbo
S – Couple of hours walking.
Decided to lay off the running for a week, very modest amount of work on the turbo trainer.
W/C Monday 13th December
M – My birthday, treated myself to a day off work and a 16 mile run along the canal.
T – 2 mile warm up and 7 mile hilly road run at a steady pace
W – Hilly 11 miles on the road
T – 2 mile warm up and 5.5 mile slow run, some pain in ankle.
F – 1 hour on the turbo, 4 mile road run, some pain in ankle.
S – In the Lakes for the weekend, slow 16.5 mile run 20/80 road/trail, different footwear, ankle felt much better.
S – Couple of hours walking AM, 1 hour on the turbo, 4 mile road run.
Much better week, ran 68 mile, highest mileage week for a long time. I think the ankle problem is tendonitis and I think the cause is a new pair of shoes, I need to get to the physio to sort out a couple of issues, but nothing that can’t be managed. Been holding off entering Manchester Marathon, I want to be sure I can be in the right sort of shape, I am not 100% certain at present. Mileage won’t be as high this week, various commitments eating in to training time, but still hopefully 45+ miles.
For various reasons I have missed a few weeks of fit club, so I will try and catch up.
STG (December / January): Consistent 45 mile + training weeks. Make the most of whatever conditions we get this winter and get out climbing ice and mixed. I am also trying to adapt to follow the principles of Matt Fitzgerald’s 2 Rule Diet, which is basically about ensuring a get enough high quality carbs without over eating, should be straightforward, but complicated by rarely eating at home at the moment.
MTG (February / March / April): Consistent 55 mile + training weeks, ½ Marathon personal best (currently 1:28:06, which is soft, mainly because I don’t run ½ marathons very often, I ran 1:26 during a 20 miler), Manchester Marathon, improve on last year, ideally under 3 hours. Make the most of whatever conditions we get this winter and get out climbing ice and mixed.
LTG (Rest of 2014): Maintain momentum with the running, concentrate on speed through the Summer, go sub 18 for 5k and sub 37 for 10k. Do more on the bike and maybe do one of the Big Swim events.
W/C Monday 30th December
M – Zip
T – 9 miles on the fells
W – 1 hour on turbo, 4 road run
T – 11 mile road run
F – Rest
S – 6 mile road run (it was a 17 mile hilly road run which I bailed out on after 3 mile and jogged home, ankle and hip pain that had been building all week)
S – Rest
Poor week, 30 miles, largely in pain.
W/C Monday 6th December
M – 1 hour on turbo
T – 1 hour on turbo
W - Working late
T – 1 hour on turbo
F – Working late
S – 1 hour on turbo
S – Couple of hours walking.
Decided to lay off the running for a week, very modest amount of work on the turbo trainer.
W/C Monday 13th December
M – My birthday, treated myself to a day off work and a 16 mile run along the canal.
T – 2 mile warm up and 7 mile hilly road run at a steady pace
W – Hilly 11 miles on the road
T – 2 mile warm up and 5.5 mile slow run, some pain in ankle.
F – 1 hour on the turbo, 4 mile road run, some pain in ankle.
S – In the Lakes for the weekend, slow 16.5 mile run 20/80 road/trail, different footwear, ankle felt much better.
S – Couple of hours walking AM, 1 hour on the turbo, 4 mile road run.
Much better week, ran 68 mile, highest mileage week for a long time. I think the ankle problem is tendonitis and I think the cause is a new pair of shoes, I need to get to the physio to sort out a couple of issues, but nothing that can’t be managed. Been holding off entering Manchester Marathon, I want to be sure I can be in the right sort of shape, I am not 100% certain at present. Mileage won’t be as high this week, various commitments eating in to training time, but still hopefully 45+ miles.
In reply to mattrm:
Hi Matt, thanks for organising this and the round-up. I would be up for putting myself down when the rota next comes up.
Anyway, in terms of aims, I'm mostly confined to indoor bouldering at the moment, so any trad or other goals are on the backburner. My objective is to onsight a V2-4 (blue) problem at the wall. I'm building towards that with overhanging traverses and a variety of styles of problems.
Last week was pretty good for me, managed four sessions at the wall, although as I said, I was suffering from ripped callouses, so had to alter the style from overhangs to slopers. Still managed to be productive.
What I've not managed is the runs and circuits for general all-round fitness. Will get back into them when things are less chaotic at home.
In terms of the niggles, I've increased the cadence (and lowered the gears) at which I cycle to work, which seems to have helped the knee. I've avoided hills too. Still have a niggle in the hip, which may be sciatica, but need to go to the doctor.
Hi Matt, thanks for organising this and the round-up. I would be up for putting myself down when the rota next comes up.
Anyway, in terms of aims, I'm mostly confined to indoor bouldering at the moment, so any trad or other goals are on the backburner. My objective is to onsight a V2-4 (blue) problem at the wall. I'm building towards that with overhanging traverses and a variety of styles of problems.
Last week was pretty good for me, managed four sessions at the wall, although as I said, I was suffering from ripped callouses, so had to alter the style from overhangs to slopers. Still managed to be productive.
What I've not managed is the runs and circuits for general all-round fitness. Will get back into them when things are less chaotic at home.
In terms of the niggles, I've increased the cadence (and lowered the gears) at which I cycle to work, which seems to have helped the knee. I've avoided hills too. Still have a niggle in the hip, which may be sciatica, but need to go to the doctor.
In reply to mrchewy:
Saw you at Stanage yesterday, thought it was probably you when the guy who'd just led Tower Face Direct called down to 'Kelvin' - I doubt there are that many climbers around named Kelvin! We were the two girls bimbling around sitting on rocks and watching people, not climbing (had a cold all weekend and the thought of climbing was horrific!!). Should have come over and introduced myself.
Saw you at Stanage yesterday, thought it was probably you when the guy who'd just led Tower Face Direct called down to 'Kelvin' - I doubt there are that many climbers around named Kelvin! We were the two girls bimbling around sitting on rocks and watching people, not climbing (had a cold all weekend and the thought of climbing was horrific!!). Should have come over and introduced myself.
In reply to mattrm:
Absolutely useless effort on my part, got two weeks to cover as I didn't update last week, and I have no idea what I did then really... Just to make excuses I've just felt run down and had a bit of a tweaked ankle this week, escalating into a really nasty cold over the weekend In reality though I just need to MTFU and get on it again (once I've stopped sneezing).
Week 356:
M:
T: Barn. Climbed some stuff, I can't remember what.
W: Orienteering. Thought I put in a horrendous performance (I got totally lost for 10 minutes of it!) but actually came 7th, much better than normal, so presumably everyone else found it equally hard!
T: I'm sure I went for a run at some point, so I'll put it down...
F: Bike commute. Failed at these this week as my bike needed some serious TLC before riding it.
S: Cneifion Arete. Chilly but nice. Over Glyder Fawr then dropped down before Tryfan.
S: Snakes & Ladders in the quarries. Always wanted to do this! Great fun, only slightly terrifying. Quit just before the Lost World abseils as the heavens opened and we didn't fancy a cold, dark, wet epic.
Week 357:
M: Bike commute
T: Bike commute. Leeds wall. Lots of 6a's, less 6b/c's, dangled around on a 7a for a while but got totally shut down by the roof. Tired.
W:
T: Bike commute
F: Depot. Trying woods and purples mainly, though failed on some blues too! Totally beasted afterwards, probably pushed it too hard knowing I was coming down with a cold.
S: Lurgy.
S: Lurgy. Couple of hours bimble along Stanage catching up with a friend. Nice day, pity not to climb.
Running has kind of dropped by the wayside the last few weeks and I skipped orienteering this week as (main reason) it was in a really uninspiring location and (excuse) I tweaked my ankle and it felt a bit unstable. Really suffering with January lack-of-motivation/blues and can't see it getting much better this week as I feel pretty ill right now....
Absolutely useless effort on my part, got two weeks to cover as I didn't update last week, and I have no idea what I did then really... Just to make excuses I've just felt run down and had a bit of a tweaked ankle this week, escalating into a really nasty cold over the weekend In reality though I just need to MTFU and get on it again (once I've stopped sneezing).
Week 356:
M:
T: Barn. Climbed some stuff, I can't remember what.
W: Orienteering. Thought I put in a horrendous performance (I got totally lost for 10 minutes of it!) but actually came 7th, much better than normal, so presumably everyone else found it equally hard!
T: I'm sure I went for a run at some point, so I'll put it down...
F: Bike commute. Failed at these this week as my bike needed some serious TLC before riding it.
S: Cneifion Arete. Chilly but nice. Over Glyder Fawr then dropped down before Tryfan.
S: Snakes & Ladders in the quarries. Always wanted to do this! Great fun, only slightly terrifying. Quit just before the Lost World abseils as the heavens opened and we didn't fancy a cold, dark, wet epic.
Week 357:
M: Bike commute
T: Bike commute. Leeds wall. Lots of 6a's, less 6b/c's, dangled around on a 7a for a while but got totally shut down by the roof. Tired.
W:
T: Bike commute
F: Depot. Trying woods and purples mainly, though failed on some blues too! Totally beasted afterwards, probably pushed it too hard knowing I was coming down with a cold.
S: Lurgy.
S: Lurgy. Couple of hours bimble along Stanage catching up with a friend. Nice day, pity not to climb.
Running has kind of dropped by the wayside the last few weeks and I skipped orienteering this week as (main reason) it was in a really uninspiring location and (excuse) I tweaked my ankle and it felt a bit unstable. Really suffering with January lack-of-motivation/blues and can't see it getting much better this week as I feel pretty ill right now....
In reply to mattrm:
STG: V6 or 7b indoors
MTG: 7b+ RP (Frankie Comes to Kilnsey) or more consistent 7a flashes outdoors
LTG: trad
Mon: core and back
Tues: BoulderUK new set, flashed up to V5 and worked other V5s and a few V6s.
Weds: evening road run, 12.6km, 127m ascent, 5.15/km
Thurs: Kendal wall, ticked a 7a from a previous visit, worked my 7b+ project.
Fri: bouldering Eden Rock
Sat: Winter walk to Lurcher's crag in Cairngorms, 12km, 629m ascent.
Sun: very wet run through to Glean Einich, 15.2km, 266m ascent, 6.18/km.
Miserable weather in the Cairngorms at the weekend.
STG: V6 or 7b indoors
MTG: 7b+ RP (Frankie Comes to Kilnsey) or more consistent 7a flashes outdoors
LTG: trad
Mon: core and back
Tues: BoulderUK new set, flashed up to V5 and worked other V5s and a few V6s.
Weds: evening road run, 12.6km, 127m ascent, 5.15/km
Thurs: Kendal wall, ticked a 7a from a previous visit, worked my 7b+ project.
Fri: bouldering Eden Rock
Sat: Winter walk to Lurcher's crag in Cairngorms, 12km, 629m ascent.
Sun: very wet run through to Glean Einich, 15.2km, 266m ascent, 6.18/km.
Miserable weather in the Cairngorms at the weekend.
In reply to Eagle River:
Well done with the 7a anyway, even if it felt a bit like catching up on yourself.
Well done with the 7a anyway, even if it felt a bit like catching up on yourself.
In reply to Ali:
heh heh I think we'll forgive you .
> Ok so firstly an apology for being totally and utterly rubbish and completely forgetting I was supposed to do fit club last week - thanks to Nick for stepping in. Only excuse is being slightly preoccupied over the last few weeks with job application/interview. But not really an excuse, so sorry again for letting the team down.
heh heh I think we'll forgive you .
In reply to grubes:
Well done with the 6C/7A. That's awesome.
Might take a trip to Depot at the weekend if it's an easy set .
Well done with the 6C/7A. That's awesome.
Might take a trip to Depot at the weekend if it's an easy set .
In reply to mattrm:
Poor week overall.
M: Lazy, I think
T: Set out for a run but after 18 mins calf was very sore, still no better by the time I hobbled home 30 minutes later.
W: Medium session at Rockover, got a couple of things I didn't do on Sunday but not a lot really. Did a near complete dead hanging session at the end (8 sets of 4x7second hangs)
T: Lazy
F: Thought I'd climb tomorrow and calf still sore so nothing
S: Filling in tax return took longer that expected so only managed an hour on friend's board. By end of session I'd done most of one of the the warm up problems!
S: Long session at Citybloc (great wall BTW). I was comprehensible burnt off by the rest of my team, that included one person who has climbed about a dozen times in the last five years, another who is recovering from knee surgery and an 11 year old girl. I actually climbed quite well...... Also did about 7 dead hang sets
Injuries: Calf still playing up but I may tray short run later.
Weight: Went drinking on Saturday night but finished the week under 11 stone
Poor week overall.
M: Lazy, I think
T: Set out for a run but after 18 mins calf was very sore, still no better by the time I hobbled home 30 minutes later.
W: Medium session at Rockover, got a couple of things I didn't do on Sunday but not a lot really. Did a near complete dead hanging session at the end (8 sets of 4x7second hangs)
T: Lazy
F: Thought I'd climb tomorrow and calf still sore so nothing
S: Filling in tax return took longer that expected so only managed an hour on friend's board. By end of session I'd done most of one of the the warm up problems!
S: Long session at Citybloc (great wall BTW). I was comprehensible burnt off by the rest of my team, that included one person who has climbed about a dozen times in the last five years, another who is recovering from knee surgery and an 11 year old girl. I actually climbed quite well...... Also did about 7 dead hang sets
Injuries: Calf still playing up but I may tray short run later.
Weight: Went drinking on Saturday night but finished the week under 11 stone
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers for starting the thread. Another weights PB and good bouldering progress this week despite feeling generally wiped out.
Booked flights for 3 day trip to Oliana in Feb - it'll be much first time trying Fish-Eye
LTG (Sept 2014): Do some adventurous cycle touring and complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
L-MTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye or Humildes pas casa at Oliana?
MTG (By end Jan 2014):
Keep to the plan; double sessions and all!
2x An-cap sessions per week
2x Fingerbaording per week
2x Weight sessions per week
Cave Life High, 7C+ - TICK!
The Highlife – 7C+/8A
Hatch Life High, 8A
Keep working on flexibility – LTG: try and get back to being able to do the splits!
STG (The coming week)
- Recovery
- Finish building campus board – gonna need an extra pair of hands to do the final assembly
- Maintain weight – went up in the week, so happy to be back to 76.0kg and 6.7% BF. Feel quite lean.
The week just gone:
M - pre-work gym session. Another PB. 4 reps @ 112.5kg lat pull down.
T - An-cap at Hangar. Half-hearted aero-cap circuits afterwards – felt broken and skin sore.
W - London – zero exercise. Ate too much for a day of sitting on my arse.
T - Repeat of Wednesday – home at 11pm. Very keen to avoid doing too many more trip to London.
F - Fairly beasted from long days down South. Late trip to cave. Did Cave Life – LWH link despite wet finishing holds and came off last move of The Highlife. Surprising progress over last weekend efforts.
S - Wet loop of ‘degla. Felt weak but still was overtaking everyone else – ppl, why do you go so slowly? Fingerboard 2 with 27.5kg extra.
S - Stoney – Garage Buttress. 6c warm-up, then took far too many goes to do a fingery 7c including one go that something went twang in my hand. No pain – weird sort of nerve pins&needles. Semi-flash of neighbouring 7c was much friendlier on the fingers.
Cheers for starting the thread. Another weights PB and good bouldering progress this week despite feeling generally wiped out.
Booked flights for 3 day trip to Oliana in Feb - it'll be much first time trying Fish-Eye
LTG (Sept 2014): Do some adventurous cycle touring and complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
L-MTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye or Humildes pas casa at Oliana?
MTG (By end Jan 2014):
Keep to the plan; double sessions and all!
2x An-cap sessions per week
2x Fingerbaording per week
2x Weight sessions per week
Cave Life High, 7C+ - TICK!
The Highlife – 7C+/8A
Hatch Life High, 8A
Keep working on flexibility – LTG: try and get back to being able to do the splits!
STG (The coming week)
- Recovery
- Finish building campus board – gonna need an extra pair of hands to do the final assembly
- Maintain weight – went up in the week, so happy to be back to 76.0kg and 6.7% BF. Feel quite lean.
The week just gone:
M - pre-work gym session. Another PB. 4 reps @ 112.5kg lat pull down.
T - An-cap at Hangar. Half-hearted aero-cap circuits afterwards – felt broken and skin sore.
W - London – zero exercise. Ate too much for a day of sitting on my arse.
T - Repeat of Wednesday – home at 11pm. Very keen to avoid doing too many more trip to London.
F - Fairly beasted from long days down South. Late trip to cave. Did Cave Life – LWH link despite wet finishing holds and came off last move of The Highlife. Surprising progress over last weekend efforts.
S - Wet loop of ‘degla. Felt weak but still was overtaking everyone else – ppl, why do you go so slowly? Fingerboard 2 with 27.5kg extra.
S - Stoney – Garage Buttress. 6c warm-up, then took far too many goes to do a fingery 7c including one go that something went twang in my hand. No pain – weird sort of nerve pins&needles. Semi-flash of neighbouring 7c was much friendlier on the fingers.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Let me know if you do head to the Depot this weekend, could be keen for a session. Busy Sat morning but should be free in the afternoon/Sunday.
Let me know if you do head to the Depot this weekend, could be keen for a session. Busy Sat morning but should be free in the afternoon/Sunday.
In reply to mattrm:
I'll let you know. I'm based in Bristol, so would be leaving from the same general area as you. I've led V,5 but only in really good conditions, don't have a good idea of where I'm at in general...
> If either of you guys do ever need a Scottish Winter partner, I'm keen.
I'll let you know. I'm based in Bristol, so would be leaving from the same general area as you. I've led V,5 but only in really good conditions, don't have a good idea of where I'm at in general...
In reply to Nick Russell:
That'd be excellent. I can get the train over to Bristol, however for weekend trips I don't really have access to the car, as we share a car and I don't like to leave the wife with out it. But happy to get weekend car insurance for myself and do my fair share of driving etc.
I have a few days off squirrelled away for winter climbing, so can also take Fri/Mon off as well.
> I'll let you know. I'm based in Bristol, so would be leaving from the same general area as you. I've led V,5 but only in really good conditions, don't have a good idea of where I'm at in general...
That'd be excellent. I can get the train over to Bristol, however for weekend trips I don't really have access to the car, as we share a car and I don't like to leave the wife with out it. But happy to get weekend car insurance for myself and do my fair share of driving etc.
I have a few days off squirrelled away for winter climbing, so can also take Fri/Mon off as well.
In reply to mattrm:
hiya folks, thanks for doinf FC mattrm
monday-turbo, core, bouldering in the garage, worked on power--open handed holds, then 2 sets of 4x4 and 1 set of 3x3s
tuesday- rest-- only two hrs sleep the night before so struggled through the work day and went straight to bed once i got home
wednesday- turbo and then weighst and core in garage
thursday-turbo in garage. kendal wall.. don;t think i managed much without falling.. one go on the 7b+.. sick of it.. not feeling the love
friday- turbo in garage and the bouldering.. similar to mondays session but extra 3x3 set thrown in
saturday- hill run, core, weights in garage
sunday- kendal wall.. same as thursday.. falling off stuff, trying hard, making longer links on most things i'm on. pm step ups .. tokenistic cardio
knackered today from lack of sleep again ... tonight's session will wreck
PPG
hiya folks, thanks for doinf FC mattrm
monday-turbo, core, bouldering in the garage, worked on power--open handed holds, then 2 sets of 4x4 and 1 set of 3x3s
tuesday- rest-- only two hrs sleep the night before so struggled through the work day and went straight to bed once i got home
wednesday- turbo and then weighst and core in garage
thursday-turbo in garage. kendal wall.. don;t think i managed much without falling.. one go on the 7b+.. sick of it.. not feeling the love
friday- turbo in garage and the bouldering.. similar to mondays session but extra 3x3 set thrown in
saturday- hill run, core, weights in garage
sunday- kendal wall.. same as thursday.. falling off stuff, trying hard, making longer links on most things i'm on. pm step ups .. tokenistic cardio
knackered today from lack of sleep again ... tonight's session will wreck
PPG
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt.
Week spoiled by lurgy.
Started ok with good session on Tuesday. Lots of easy boulder warm ups and then repeated 3 V5's and did a V6 (at the lower end of the scale) and nearly got another. Then hit the campus on middle rungs. More intense and more what I'm looking for. I last about a minute and am powering out rather than pumping out. 5 sets done.
Wednesday I was feeling v tired and run down. Routes session. Did the leading ladder routes up to 6c.Despite feeling crap they went down easy, though most say they are soft. The 6b+ in particular. Too tired to summon up the psyche for the 7a so I'll try it next time.
The lurgy hit the next day and is still with me. Now at the sneezing/snotty stage so hopefully I'll climb tomorrow eve.
I NEED to sort out my diet. Fruit and veg have been strangers to me of late, though I have made a good new friend called cheese. Been ill twice in a month. More sleep and better food is called for.
I've got my hands on a borrowed bike until I sell my car to finance mine. Silly plans in place for coast to coast at easterish and Lands End to John O'Groats in the Summer. Gulp !
This week:
Climb/train 3 times
Bike ride
8 hrs kip a night
Diet quality scores from racing weight.
Cheers Matt.
Week spoiled by lurgy.
Started ok with good session on Tuesday. Lots of easy boulder warm ups and then repeated 3 V5's and did a V6 (at the lower end of the scale) and nearly got another. Then hit the campus on middle rungs. More intense and more what I'm looking for. I last about a minute and am powering out rather than pumping out. 5 sets done.
Wednesday I was feeling v tired and run down. Routes session. Did the leading ladder routes up to 6c.Despite feeling crap they went down easy, though most say they are soft. The 6b+ in particular. Too tired to summon up the psyche for the 7a so I'll try it next time.
The lurgy hit the next day and is still with me. Now at the sneezing/snotty stage so hopefully I'll climb tomorrow eve.
I NEED to sort out my diet. Fruit and veg have been strangers to me of late, though I have made a good new friend called cheese. Been ill twice in a month. More sleep and better food is called for.
I've got my hands on a borrowed bike until I sell my car to finance mine. Silly plans in place for coast to coast at easterish and Lands End to John O'Groats in the Summer. Gulp !
This week:
Climb/train 3 times
Bike ride
8 hrs kip a night
Diet quality scores from racing weight.
In reply to maria85:
Aye - always nice to finally meet people... next time! It was a grand afternoon tho eh? Was just getting over flu myself and thought I'd just take pictures but no.
Aye - always nice to finally meet people... next time! It was a grand afternoon tho eh? Was just getting over flu myself and thought I'd just take pictures but no.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for doing the thread Matt
Two weeks away in Turkey over Christmas (which was great), then have barely climbed since, re-discovered my motivation this week.
Mon - Boulder. Lots done, problems up to V5.
Tues - Boulder. Working stuff
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Boulder.
Fri - Boulder.
Sat - Boulder. Good board session.
Sun - Routes. OS up to 6b, couple of attempt on a 7a, lots of falling. Feeling tired, looking back on the week I can see why... I need to find a happy medium before I trash my elbows!
2014 goals:
No more 7b's! Start getting some 7b+'s done (1/4 done)
Work on 7c+ pyramid (4x 7b done; 2x 7b+, 1x 7c, 1x 7c+ to do)
Tick Fighting Torque
1x 7a or more OS attempt every day spent at a suitable crag (i.e. not the Cuttings or Malham...!)
Improve my indoor bouldering (12x V5 - 1 done, 3x V6 - 0 done)
Thanks for doing the thread Matt
Two weeks away in Turkey over Christmas (which was great), then have barely climbed since, re-discovered my motivation this week.
Mon - Boulder. Lots done, problems up to V5.
Tues - Boulder. Working stuff
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Boulder.
Fri - Boulder.
Sat - Boulder. Good board session.
Sun - Routes. OS up to 6b, couple of attempt on a 7a, lots of falling. Feeling tired, looking back on the week I can see why... I need to find a happy medium before I trash my elbows!
2014 goals:
No more 7b's! Start getting some 7b+'s done (1/4 done)
Work on 7c+ pyramid (4x 7b done; 2x 7b+, 1x 7c, 1x 7c+ to do)
Tick Fighting Torque
1x 7a or more OS attempt every day spent at a suitable crag (i.e. not the Cuttings or Malham...!)
Improve my indoor bouldering (12x V5 - 1 done, 3x V6 - 0 done)
In reply to grubes:
Interview done, job got Just a secondment to different team so a bit of a trying-something-else move whilst I work out what I want to do long term (which will hopefully involve moving nearer rock).
Interview done, job got Just a secondment to different team so a bit of a trying-something-else move whilst I work out what I want to do long term (which will hopefully involve moving nearer rock).
In reply to mattrm:
Re first Grade IV - try to have a week on the Ben when it's in good nick. If you can manage Green Gully, Comb Gully, Italian Right Hand and maybe The Curtain then put yourself on Point Five in good nick and good weather - sure would go fine.
Re first Grade IV - try to have a week on the Ben when it's in good nick. If you can manage Green Gully, Comb Gully, Italian Right Hand and maybe The Curtain then put yourself on Point Five in good nick and good weather - sure would go fine.
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Some lofty aims for the year - great to see that you're willing to push yourself and set a big target. If you daren't dream it; it'll never happen!
Nice lots of bouldering volume for a single week - i know my elbows would be complaining with all that intensity!
Any more details of your successful Turkish trip?
Some lofty aims for the year - great to see that you're willing to push yourself and set a big target. If you daren't dream it; it'll never happen!
Nice lots of bouldering volume for a single week - i know my elbows would be complaining with all that intensity!
Any more details of your successful Turkish trip?
In reply to mattrm:
Did three bike commutes (86 miles) and one climbing session. I felt a lot better climbing than recently so that's good. Ive decided to no toprope stuff as it makes me lazy.
My boyfriend has lent me some fat scales and a "How to be less fat" book. Is he trying to tell me something?
Going to try and commute five days this week and then a short ride on the Sunday. Still only 3% down on body fat so must keep trying.
6 weeks to Chorro!!
Did three bike commutes (86 miles) and one climbing session. I felt a lot better climbing than recently so that's good. Ive decided to no toprope stuff as it makes me lazy.
My boyfriend has lent me some fat scales and a "How to be less fat" book. Is he trying to tell me something?
Going to try and commute five days this week and then a short ride on the Sunday. Still only 3% down on body fat so must keep trying.
6 weeks to Chorro!!
In reply to Ali:
Well done Ali!
Since we are having a lazy day today I thought I'd check back in briefly. Been lurking, but have been updating the world on progress via blog rather than coming on here most of the time. Have just out up a new one rambling about goal setting and things, which I'm sure UKC will pick up on the blog bit on my profile soon. http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.com.es/2014/01/goals-performance-and-m...
We have now reached Chorro (arrived sunday night), and have hit the 3-week mark. The volume of climbing hasn't actually been that high, since we have spent a fair while driving and have also had a few days of bad weather and Alis birthday thrown in as well. Hopefully now we are moving about less we can get into a bit more of a routine and the metres climbed:km driven ratio will start to improve!
The results so far have been good though. I didn't feel so fit at the start of the trip, and was also very much out of practice at onsighting, having mainly been tradding, bouldering and redpointing all year. But by virtue of just getting out there and jumping on things, I've done 9 7s so far, 7 of which have been onsight with the other two second go. When you know you've only got a day or so somewhere, its easy to just throw yourself at things, after all it might be your only chance...!
I've onsighted my first 7b, onsighted my 3rd and 4th (I think) 7a+s, done 4 7a onsights and done a 7a and 7a+ second go. Really enjoyed Chulilla, Montsant and Gandia so far.
Got tons of things to try and onsight in Chorro, plus got my eyes on some projects. At the moment I'm leaning towards using this month as a fitness builder, hopefully consolidating existing grades in the euro style, rather than getting involved in a siege, because the routes I'd most want to do as 8as are over at Makinodromo which is a long walk with little suitable for Ali on it. Plus, to be honest, I'm really enjoying feeling good about onsighting and I'm looking hungrily at the amount of cool things I could try and do in the time we have out here. But who knows, I might try something or see something that hooks me in.
Looking forwards to seeing our first batch of visitors, in 2.5 weeks in Chorro and 4 weeks in Chulilla, mega psyched to get fit and then go on the rampage in Chulilla with Ally's big list of soft touches and must-dos, and looking forwards to my birthday in Barcelona as well. On which note Helen it might be handy if you could have a look at which of the smaller crags you are interested in - for example we are likely to only want to do a day at El Polvorin, and only a few days at Encantadas, and wouldn't want to find you were very psyched for something on a crag that we just aren't that fussed by any more when instead we could just save it until you arrive. Obviously Frontales, Makinodromo etc we are never going to get bored of, but the littler ones might be a different story.
It's occurred to me that the 8a before 30 goal might get missed (I've either got to do one here or in Chulilla), but in some respects it's done its job, it made me get to the level where (probably) I could, and beyond that I don't want to stress myself out by chasing an arbitrary number by an arbitrary date, when in reality the world won't stop spinning on its axis if I'm a few weeks late or "only" climb some awesome euro 7c+s.
Have fun and keep cranking,
Andy
Well done Ali!
Since we are having a lazy day today I thought I'd check back in briefly. Been lurking, but have been updating the world on progress via blog rather than coming on here most of the time. Have just out up a new one rambling about goal setting and things, which I'm sure UKC will pick up on the blog bit on my profile soon. http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.com.es/2014/01/goals-performance-and-m...
We have now reached Chorro (arrived sunday night), and have hit the 3-week mark. The volume of climbing hasn't actually been that high, since we have spent a fair while driving and have also had a few days of bad weather and Alis birthday thrown in as well. Hopefully now we are moving about less we can get into a bit more of a routine and the metres climbed:km driven ratio will start to improve!
The results so far have been good though. I didn't feel so fit at the start of the trip, and was also very much out of practice at onsighting, having mainly been tradding, bouldering and redpointing all year. But by virtue of just getting out there and jumping on things, I've done 9 7s so far, 7 of which have been onsight with the other two second go. When you know you've only got a day or so somewhere, its easy to just throw yourself at things, after all it might be your only chance...!
I've onsighted my first 7b, onsighted my 3rd and 4th (I think) 7a+s, done 4 7a onsights and done a 7a and 7a+ second go. Really enjoyed Chulilla, Montsant and Gandia so far.
Got tons of things to try and onsight in Chorro, plus got my eyes on some projects. At the moment I'm leaning towards using this month as a fitness builder, hopefully consolidating existing grades in the euro style, rather than getting involved in a siege, because the routes I'd most want to do as 8as are over at Makinodromo which is a long walk with little suitable for Ali on it. Plus, to be honest, I'm really enjoying feeling good about onsighting and I'm looking hungrily at the amount of cool things I could try and do in the time we have out here. But who knows, I might try something or see something that hooks me in.
Looking forwards to seeing our first batch of visitors, in 2.5 weeks in Chorro and 4 weeks in Chulilla, mega psyched to get fit and then go on the rampage in Chulilla with Ally's big list of soft touches and must-dos, and looking forwards to my birthday in Barcelona as well. On which note Helen it might be handy if you could have a look at which of the smaller crags you are interested in - for example we are likely to only want to do a day at El Polvorin, and only a few days at Encantadas, and wouldn't want to find you were very psyched for something on a crag that we just aren't that fussed by any more when instead we could just save it until you arrive. Obviously Frontales, Makinodromo etc we are never going to get bored of, but the littler ones might be a different story.
It's occurred to me that the 8a before 30 goal might get missed (I've either got to do one here or in Chulilla), but in some respects it's done its job, it made me get to the level where (probably) I could, and beyond that I don't want to stress myself out by chasing an arbitrary number by an arbitrary date, when in reality the world won't stop spinning on its axis if I'm a few weeks late or "only" climb some awesome euro 7c+s.
Have fun and keep cranking,
Andy
In reply to AJM:
I know where you're coming from in your blog entry - until this year i had a very flat OS pyramid leveling out at 7c.
Throwing myself at 7c+/13a's in the RRG was an eye opener but none of them came to fruition. That changed in Chulilla where i felt like i had a 50:50 chance on the OS and that confidence was what got me to try and flash 8a, which worked out just swimmingly!
So, why not "go big" again? 7b+ flash or OS in Chulilla in a months time should be something obtainable; to quote a song recently stuck in my head "Never let your fears decide your fate"!!
I know where you're coming from in your blog entry - until this year i had a very flat OS pyramid leveling out at 7c.
Throwing myself at 7c+/13a's in the RRG was an eye opener but none of them came to fruition. That changed in Chulilla where i felt like i had a 50:50 chance on the OS and that confidence was what got me to try and flash 8a, which worked out just swimmingly!
So, why not "go big" again? 7b+ flash or OS in Chulilla in a months time should be something obtainable; to quote a song recently stuck in my head "Never let your fears decide your fate"!!
Post edited at 15:52
In reply to Ally Smith:
Yes, I think we are on a similar page. Although in respect of your song lyric, for once I don't really feel intimidated by the idea of just chucking myself up something and seeing what happens, which is very unusual for me. I usually have a far more fixed idea in my head of where my onsight boundary is, whereas currently I'm feeling a bit like I've broken through the old one at 7a/+ and haven't failed enough yet to have worked out quite where the new one is! Maybe its 7a+/b, but then who knows, maybe it could be 7b/+, but if I don't keep pushing to find out I think ill end up finding myself in a comfort zone rather than teetering on its edge and hence end up underselling myself..... That's why I'm currently thinking I want to keep riding that particular wave rather than jumping too far onto the projecting/sieging one.
Going to keep throwing myself at things onsight, even if they're well beyond what I might currently deem plausible, because miracles can happen and getting used to the kind of commitment I'll require to throw myself at 7b+/c onsight will help develop the kind of commitment required to get up them eventually!
Re Chulilla, I think my goal by then is to be able to have credible onsight gos on big 7b+s like Los Francones (or whatever it was called, near Ramallar), and hopefully get some of them, and to be happy doing some of the harder (7c/+) things from your list relatively quickly. As for flashing things, I think that's going to rather depend what the others are up to in terms of whether there's beta there to scrounge!
Yes, I think we are on a similar page. Although in respect of your song lyric, for once I don't really feel intimidated by the idea of just chucking myself up something and seeing what happens, which is very unusual for me. I usually have a far more fixed idea in my head of where my onsight boundary is, whereas currently I'm feeling a bit like I've broken through the old one at 7a/+ and haven't failed enough yet to have worked out quite where the new one is! Maybe its 7a+/b, but then who knows, maybe it could be 7b/+, but if I don't keep pushing to find out I think ill end up finding myself in a comfort zone rather than teetering on its edge and hence end up underselling myself..... That's why I'm currently thinking I want to keep riding that particular wave rather than jumping too far onto the projecting/sieging one.
Going to keep throwing myself at things onsight, even if they're well beyond what I might currently deem plausible, because miracles can happen and getting used to the kind of commitment I'll require to throw myself at 7b+/c onsight will help develop the kind of commitment required to get up them eventually!
Re Chulilla, I think my goal by then is to be able to have credible onsight gos on big 7b+s like Los Francones (or whatever it was called, near Ramallar), and hopefully get some of them, and to be happy doing some of the harder (7c/+) things from your list relatively quickly. As for flashing things, I think that's going to rather depend what the others are up to in terms of whether there's beta there to scrounge!
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt!
Late reply from me this week. Had an amazing day bouldering last Sunday.
Monday: Few throws on Roof LH at a damp Hope Mnt.
45 mins Aerocap
3 x 30 Aquaman's
3 x 1min Dish
Tuesday: Boardroom routes
5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+
Moved onto the Piscobloc routes as they'd been reset. Good Power Endurance session: 6c (4th go) Tried the 7a ~10 times. Failing ~13 moves in about 7 times then failing ~17 moves in about 3 times.
Abs: ~2mins of leg raises with mate pushing legs down
3 x 1min Dish
3 x 20 Supermans
3 x 30 Aquamans
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Cave session
Warmed up with a few laps on Split Traverse 6B
Made progress on Shothole Start (7A) Can do all the moves now but spent hours working out about 2 of them. Did the 6C end to the trav various times in the session.
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Hit the pit in Ogwen Valley, warmed up repeating "Pit Start" (6C) first go then took ages to do "Jez's Arete" (6C) then managed the best problem i've ever done "Harvey Oswald" (7A) wanted to do this ever seen I saw a pick of Katz on it in the NWB guide. Mega psyched!
Had no skin left but headed over to the Pass and had a load goes on "Fish Skin Wall" (7A+) came really close but skin failed on me.
I'm currently massively psyched for bouldering!
Cheers Matt!
Late reply from me this week. Had an amazing day bouldering last Sunday.
Monday: Few throws on Roof LH at a damp Hope Mnt.
45 mins Aerocap
3 x 30 Aquaman's
3 x 1min Dish
Tuesday: Boardroom routes
5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+
Moved onto the Piscobloc routes as they'd been reset. Good Power Endurance session: 6c (4th go) Tried the 7a ~10 times. Failing ~13 moves in about 7 times then failing ~17 moves in about 3 times.
Abs: ~2mins of leg raises with mate pushing legs down
3 x 1min Dish
3 x 20 Supermans
3 x 30 Aquamans
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Cave session
Warmed up with a few laps on Split Traverse 6B
Made progress on Shothole Start (7A) Can do all the moves now but spent hours working out about 2 of them. Did the 6C end to the trav various times in the session.
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Hit the pit in Ogwen Valley, warmed up repeating "Pit Start" (6C) first go then took ages to do "Jez's Arete" (6C) then managed the best problem i've ever done "Harvey Oswald" (7A) wanted to do this ever seen I saw a pick of Katz on it in the NWB guide. Mega psyched!
Had no skin left but headed over to the Pass and had a load goes on "Fish Skin Wall" (7A+) came really close but skin failed on me.
I'm currently massively psyched for bouldering!
Post edited at 22:15
In reply to mattrm:
I racked up for a 7c onsight yesterday for the first time ever. I fell off the sixth move from the end of the difficulties. Now, admittedly, those people who know the route in question (Honk Down, on Frontales) will know that that means I was just getting properly involved with the crux!
But with a bit more luck, I'd have held the move I fell off, which would have left me with an easier move I could still have done to a stable position, then one I might have done, and another, and then a move on an intermediate leaves you at the last hard move (speaking relatively - I'm not unconvinced my friend wasn't wrong when he said in isolation it'd get about V2-3!) which I'd definitely have fallen off.
Closer on paper than in reality. But it was a good fight, and makes the idea of getting on 7bs and 7b+s onsight less of a big thing which was really the point of it.
I racked up for a 7c onsight yesterday for the first time ever. I fell off the sixth move from the end of the difficulties. Now, admittedly, those people who know the route in question (Honk Down, on Frontales) will know that that means I was just getting properly involved with the crux!
But with a bit more luck, I'd have held the move I fell off, which would have left me with an easier move I could still have done to a stable position, then one I might have done, and another, and then a move on an intermediate leaves you at the last hard move (speaking relatively - I'm not unconvinced my friend wasn't wrong when he said in isolation it'd get about V2-3!) which I'd definitely have fallen off.
Closer on paper than in reality. But it was a good fight, and makes the idea of getting on 7bs and 7b+s onsight less of a big thing which was really the point of it.
In reply to AJM:
That's a lot of negatives... so you're saying you think it is in fact V2-3?
> I'm not unconvinced my friend wasn't wrong when he said in isolation it'd get about V2-3!
That's a lot of negatives... so you're saying you think it is in fact V2-3?
In reply to AJM: Ah I was looking at Honk Down as well, think I might try an onsight burn on it, good effort to get so far. Also well done on the 7b onsight though, seems your onsighting is catching up to your red pointing!
Sounds like a great trip so far, I'll have to ask for some of your chorro recommendations before I get there, hopefully catch you there as well. We're staying in a pretty big villa so you could probably join us for an evening or something, I know how tiring living in a van can get!
Sounds like a great trip so far, I'll have to ask for some of your chorro recommendations before I get there, hopefully catch you there as well. We're staying in a pretty big villa so you could probably join us for an evening or something, I know how tiring living in a van can get!
In reply to Nick Russell:
I did get rather confused myself writing it!
But yeah, its a soft euro-stamina 7c with the crux right at the top. If you replicated it indoors and gave it V3 I wouldn't argue. The sequence in isolation is several grades easier than that crux on tide rising (V5?) in anyone's money. For me its the kind of move that my abilities at will deteriorate noticeably when I'm tired (some moves your ability to do decays slowly as you get tired, some more quickly, if you know what I mean). So next time I get on it I'll be a bit more methodical and bolt to bolt it and work the moves properly to ensure I've got a solid sequence wired.
I did get rather confused myself writing it!
But yeah, its a soft euro-stamina 7c with the crux right at the top. If you replicated it indoors and gave it V3 I wouldn't argue. The sequence in isolation is several grades easier than that crux on tide rising (V5?) in anyone's money. For me its the kind of move that my abilities at will deteriorate noticeably when I'm tired (some moves your ability to do decays slowly as you get tired, some more quickly, if you know what I mean). So next time I get on it I'll be a bit more methodical and bolt to bolt it and work the moves properly to ensure I've got a solid sequence wired.
In reply to Joughton:
Well worth a go - good onsight territory, and as you'd expect for the location/angle/grade the holds are well marked with some combo of rubber, chalk, and tick marks.
Yeah, it's going well onsighting. First time in ages I've got to the mythical 3 grade difference. Unsurprisingly really - it's all about getting the miles in on onsight friendly rock and going a muerte isn't it!
I'll build a recommendation list for you. Anack, next to Honk Down, is awesome in a similar stamina mould, well worth doing, no hard moves either. Be great to meet you whilst you are out, let's keep in touch on that! I forget when it is, you arrive just as we leave don't you (15th or something?)...
Well worth a go - good onsight territory, and as you'd expect for the location/angle/grade the holds are well marked with some combo of rubber, chalk, and tick marks.
Yeah, it's going well onsighting. First time in ages I've got to the mythical 3 grade difference. Unsurprisingly really - it's all about getting the miles in on onsight friendly rock and going a muerte isn't it!
I'll build a recommendation list for you. Anack, next to Honk Down, is awesome in a similar stamina mould, well worth doing, no hard moves either. Be great to meet you whilst you are out, let's keep in touch on that! I forget when it is, you arrive just as we leave don't you (15th or something?)...
In reply to AJM:
Honk down crux is supposed to be v4 ish. But after climbing 20m of 7a+, from what I've been told, it's not that easy. Fwiw I've never seen anyone fail on what follows after if they've latched the crux throw. It tends to focus the mind not wanting to climb the whole thing again just because of one move.
Looks like you're really getting into gear. Bodes very well for the near future.
Liron careto is a shoe in for you at 7c. Hands off rest before the hard stuff ( stood on a ledge ) but just look at the top half carefully before you set off. 7c os here we come !
Honk down crux is supposed to be v4 ish. But after climbing 20m of 7a+, from what I've been told, it's not that easy. Fwiw I've never seen anyone fail on what follows after if they've latched the crux throw. It tends to focus the mind not wanting to climb the whole thing again just because of one move.
Looks like you're really getting into gear. Bodes very well for the near future.
Liron careto is a shoe in for you at 7c. Hands off rest before the hard stuff ( stood on a ledge ) but just look at the top half carefully before you set off. 7c os here we come !
In reply to AJM:
I had a go at a 7c on the left side of the poema de roca cave.
Its a 15m horizontal jug fest. Worth a blast even just for shits and giggles. I'd wear trousers for knee protection.
Keep going me old son! So Jealous.
I'm nursing a knee injury currently. At least its winter here...
I had a go at a 7c on the left side of the poema de roca cave.
Its a 15m horizontal jug fest. Worth a blast even just for shits and giggles. I'd wear trousers for knee protection.
Keep going me old son! So Jealous.
I'm nursing a knee injury currently. At least its winter here...
In reply to biscuit:
That's weak spaniards saying its V4 is it?
Starting to get my eyes on some 7b/+ potentials first but Lion does look awesome. Strictly speaking though I fell off the first pitch on my previous visit.
Kev - eye of the storm? On the list if so...!
That's weak spaniards saying its V4 is it?
Starting to get my eyes on some 7b/+ potentials first but Lion does look awesome. Strictly speaking though I fell off the first pitch on my previous visit.
Kev - eye of the storm? On the list if so...!
In reply to AJM:
I think it feels hard as it's quite an accurate throw you have to make. As you say you get tired after what's come before and it's not thuggy.
You fell off the 7a. The 7c is the top pitch so I reckon it's all good
I think it feels hard as it's quite an accurate throw you have to make. As you say you get tired after what's come before and it's not thuggy.
You fell off the 7a. The 7c is the top pitch so I reckon it's all good
In reply to AJM: Sounds good, I'm guessing the difficulty is having enough left in the tank for the crux! Shame I'm not as fit as I was, I'll have to get some laps done...
A list would be much appreciated though! We're arriving on the 14th so we might manage a half day then, but the 15th would be our first full day of climbing. Which day are you leaving?
A list would be much appreciated though! We're arriving on the 14th so we might manage a half day then, but the 15th would be our first full day of climbing. Which day are you leaving?
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