UKC

I need to buy new boots. I've previously used Nepal Extremes, but like the fit of Scarpa Rebel Ultra GTXs. Has anyone used the Rebels and how good are they for Scottish ice and mixed - equal to the Nepal's? Not being so insulated, are the Rebels warm enough for Scottish? GrAteful for advice on this.

In reply to tombain:

La Sportiva and Scarpa have totally different fit of boots. Sportiva suit long narrow low volume feet, Scarps suit wide blocky high volume feet. You're comparing chalk and cheese and if you like the fit of Rebels, then write Sportiva off at his stage. Then, have a look at other Scarpa boots; try the Triolet (also known as Manta Plus in UK) if you are worried that Rebels aren't robust enough. But if you like the Scarpa fit, don't even consider Sportiva. Or, look at the Zamberlan Expert Pro - as robust as Nepal Extremes, in a Scarpa-like fit.

In reply to nickinscottishmountains:


I have anything but that foot shape yet I've always got on well with Scarpas. Have they changed recently?

In reply to DaveHK:

It's never black and white with bootfitting expecially with sock/insoles etc but perhaps Scarpa fit you better than Sportiva?

In reply to nickinscottishmountains:

Not true, the Rebels have a much lower volume than previous climbing boots. Also the OP did say that they like the fit of the boot.

However they are very different boots, with the Scarpa being much lighter and so less durable. Also they have a very shallow lugs on the sole, this is to save on weight but does mean they will not last as long as the nepals. I'm afraid I can't comment on them on how good they are to climb in but reviews suggest they are excellent.

In reply to nickinscottishmountains:

I'd also disagree about the fit. I've got wide feet and have had various pairs of Scarpas down the years and agree they do seem to fit wider feet quite well BUT I've a pair of the original Nepal Extremes (from 2000) and they're the best fitting mountain boots I've ever had. I've also got old Trango S (2001), OK fit on the forefoot where I'm wide, a bit funny round the ankles and Trango Extremes (circa 2006) which are a bit narrow on the forefoot but 7 odd winter seasons in them have sort of battered them into an OK-ish fit! I also got Sportiva Baruntses a year and a bit ago and they're also ok-ish forefoot fit although pushed on my little toes, but with thermofit inners I sorted that out. So I know people say Sportivas fit narrow, but it's not all the models all the seasons. I think though I have a narrow-ish heel and ankle, so it maybe that if you are wide there as well, their heel cups might be too tight.

OP - I've saw someone with the Rebel Ultras last weekend. It was about -12 and he said he could feel it more than with his old boots, although I don't know what those were. I think if you're moving a lot you can get away with pretty light boots if they fit well. But stand for 2 hours in deep damp snow belaying your mate in classic Scottish misery conditions, and I'll bet you'll get cold feet in them!

In reply to tombain:

Thanks to all for responses, that's very helpful - it's back to Nepals for me!Much appreciated everyone. Cheers.

In reply to tombain:

you can resole nepals by the way.