UKC

I'm heading to the Cairngorms for the weekend of the 1st-2nd Feb and I intend to give my first gully a try. I intend it to be grade I but when taking into account likely conditions, the number of pitches, protection etc. what would be a good gully to start on?

I'll probably park at the Cairngorm Ski car park as i've been there before so I was thinking Coire an t'Sneachda or Coire an Lochain.

Thanks

In reply to Jordangask:

Jacob's ladder if it's in condition?
The Runnel is good but it's grade II and often busy.

In reply to Jordangask:

Jacob's ladder/Central Gully/Alladin's Couloir? I've been up/down all of them at some point this month and they've all been at the grade advertised, perhaps easier because it's so banked out? However that may not be the case when you are looking to do them, so worth keeping an eye on blogs/logbooks etc. Personally I'd go for Central or Alladin's (or both!) as Jacob's is really short and you'll probably find yourself finished with it by 10am!

Obviously goes without saying you should be competent at nav and have good avalanche awareness (check SAIS and MWIS before you head out). Hope you have a good trip.

In reply to Jordangask:

Linking up two Grade I gullies in two diffrent coires is a good idea. Into Coire an t-Sneachda, up Aladdin's Couloir, then descend via Coire Domhain toward the Loch Avon basin. Then up Castlegates Gully and then either walk over toward Ben Macdui then back home again, or a happy retreat back toward the head of the Goat track and back into the coire.

Linking up two Coire an Lochain and Coire an t-Sneachda is a good trip too. From the ski centre head over toward Coire an Lochain then climb The Couloir. Over the summit of Cairn Lochain and descend the Goat Track to the base of the coire. Lunch, then either up Jacob's Ladder, Aladdin's or Central Gully.

In reply to Jordangask:

Jacob's Ladder had an impossible-looking cornice last Friday.

Check the avalanche forecast. If it is Considerable or above, stay out of gullies.

In reply to paul-1970:

Castlegates Gully is a good call for a bit more of a mountaineering day out.

In reply to Jamie B:

I saw someone back off Jacobs Ladder the other weekend because of the cornice.

Latest sais blog has a good photo showing current situation -
http://saisncairngorms.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/very-strong-south-east-winds-...

In reply to Mike_Watson_99:

It still looks huge. I wouldn't go near it.

In reply to Jordangask:

According to your profile you've already climbed at grade two.
Just curious

In reply to Dave Perry:

Not a gully though!

In reply to Jordangask:

I'd personally take conditions on the day and go with the best plan and let common sense prevail. Nobody on here or for that matter on the planet can advise you on a route for them specific dates at such notice.
1) As stated stay out of a gully if the avalanche hazard is considerable or above ON THAT ASPECT.
2) Be prepared to turn around if it doesn't look/feel right
3) Avoid heavy cornices if possible
4) pay a lot of attention to prevailing winds and temperatures for the days before your visit and try to estimate what is happening to the snow due to these conditions
5) Don't blindly follow someone up a route "thinking" they are wiser than yourself

I'm certain if you ask folk on here closer to the time someone can give up to date "on the ground" conditions for you or look on the SAIS blogs for the area

Fingers crossd for good weather and conditions for you.

In reply to Dave Perry:

Yes you're right but as Michael said it wasn't a gully. I feel a little more 'in the know' with ridges as they are what I've predominantly done in the Alps.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Out of curiosity, is there anything you'd say was important to know when climbing gullies that I wouldn't have picked up from ridges or trad climbing... I'm pretty sure i'm competent with snow anchors (from the Alps) but besides that, any advice?

In reply to jas wood:

Thanks a lot Jas!

In reply to Jordangask:

Easy gullies are disproortianately harder to protect then easy ridges and harder gullies - their angle means they fill up with snow thus covering rock belays. So, plan your last belay before any cornice shananigans - nowt worse than running out a full rope length to end up having to build a dodgey snow belay just below some nightmare corrnice, often on the steepest part of the gully, often where it feels most avalanchy.

They can take you through impressive mountain scenery, but the quicker people get thro this part of their apprenticeship, the better in my view. On the whole, harder routes ( say grade 2/3 upwards) have better and safer climbing.

In reply to Jordangask:

Try and get a look at the cornice before you start up. And if you are caught out badly (e.g. due to poor vis beforehand) you may be able to down pitch the route using your earlier anchors.