/ Avoiding tennis elbow
I do wrist curls with palms down/up as part of my routine, also bicep curls - which is the likely culprit? It could possibly be other exercises but these are the main suspects. Over-gripping can't help either...?
Any advice appreciated.
Climbing probably has a bit to do with it!!
But if you have to pick one of those two to give up I'd expect it's the bicep curls as the reverse wrist curls works opposing muscles, but the bicep curls do the same muscles as climbing.
NB - I'm have no qualifications in this area
These work a treat in a lot of cases if used regular...
I was susceptible to sore elbows (inside and out ) and was advised to do eccentric wrist curls, resting my forearm on a stool, then lowering a dumbell, palms up, and then lift the dumbell back up. The lifting back up is important. I now do three sets of ten on each arm each day with about 12-14 kg.
I also have a 1.5kg weight on the end of a 0.5m stick which I rotate outside ten times and then inside ten times, each hand, each day. A big hammer would do the job.
I train hard several times each week and now never have bad elbows so these two exercises do it for me. However these things are often complex and a visit to a good physio may be the best option.
The biceps curl will probably be adding to the problem.
do you do pull-ups? if so do you lock your arms on each rep?
I find that frequent stretching really seems to help - palm of hand towards wrist, then twist wrist to feel stretch. Also press-ups seem good.
didn't someone invent a good stetch involving lying on your arm.......can't recall the thread
I was a little put off by the fact that this website seems to have tennis & golfers elbow the wrong way round.....?
you say you are doing wrist curls, but don't say if they are eccentric or concentric - I think that to have a rehabilitative effect on the tendons, you need to weight the wrist in extension, and support it in contraction. Otherwise you'll be increasing the loading that is giving the problem in the first place.
start exercising the other muscles, the ones you don't use much when climbing. do some push ups and stretches every day
There are others threads on UKC with a lot of info but in short, my take on it is:
1. Stop exercising the muscles you use in climbing (eg pull ups), start exercising the antagonistic muscles ie do lots of push ups regularly etc
2. Improve your technique and if indoors especially, don't take unnecessary strain on your arms eg if you slip, don't try to hang on and kill your arms, just start again and do the move right
3. Step off the gas a little (both frequency but also intensity) to give your arms time to recover.
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