/ new rock shoes

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mh554 on 22 Jan 2014
Im looking for new shoes. Any love/horror stories?
Any good review articles that you know of?

Cheers
SteveoS - on 22 Jan 2014
In reply to mh554:

If they fit and you can afford them. Buy them.
mh554 on 22 Jan 2014
In reply to SteveoS:

thanks for that insightful nugget of info :-)
@ndyM@rsh@ll - on 22 Jan 2014
In reply to mh554:

If going for 5.10 buy a whole or more size smaller than your normal shoes.
SteveoS - on 22 Jan 2014
In reply to mh554:

> thanks for that insightful nugget of info :-)

What fit other people may not fit you, go try on as many pairs as possible.
neuromancer - on 22 Jan 2014
In reply to ow arm:

That is if you want to wear them with hiking socks.
Choss on 22 Jan 2014
In reply to neuromancer:

> That is if you want to wear them with hiking socks.

Or if youve got gout or similar :-)

bandits seem a very popular all Round shoe at Present, but the Stench is Unholy for some reason. that put me off.

i got 5 tens at street size this Time. seem very comfy so far (wanted red chilli rebels cos they have cool as denim Uppers, but shop guy said they only had them in womens sizes :-(

5 ten doing pinks again. they Look Cracking when wearing Jeans :-D
T_Mac - on 22 Jan 2014
In reply to mh554:

It totally depends on your foot shape and what you're looking for from the shoe.
Beginner= pretty much whatever fits at the lower price points (75 and lower). Go for a fairly flat toed fit.
Progressing= Sportiva Miura VS, 5.10 Anasazi, Scarpa Vapor velcro, all good if you want something pretty precise (mostly priced at around 115-125). Size as small as you feel happy with.
Sport/Bouldering= Sportiva solution, Scarpa Instinct or Stix V2, 5.10 Dragon or Team, Evolv Shaman. (120-130). Go as small as possible and 'stretch' to fit.

In my experience(10 years in retail), all the brands have their ups and downs. I haven't seen more returns on any one brand over another from a quality perspective and in the end, its what fits you.

Definitely, definitely, definitely try them on before you buy.
mh554 on 22 Jan 2014
In reply to T_Mac:

I fall into the 'progressing' bracket. I tried on the Scarpa Vapout and they felt like they were bending my foot where it didnt want to go and crushing my big toe nail. I gave up as I was short on time and didnt want to rush things.
The Red Chilli Spirit seems to get good reviews...
ads.ukclimbing.com
T_Mac - on 22 Jan 2014
In reply to mh554:
The spirit is good jack of all trades. Like I said, its down to what you want from the shoe. I started squishing my feet in to rock shoes back in '94 and I still have sore feet after a session, its one of the things that as a climber, you'll need to make a call on personally. Rock shoes work better the tighter they are, full stop. However, this doesn't mean that everyone MUST down size to crippling point and indeed I don't myself. One of my co-workers has exactly the same size feet as me and wears his Scarpa instincts in a 41, whereas I literally cannot get into them until I try an old pair that he has already broken in! Mine are a 42 and I'm happy with my compromise.
If you feel that your feet were knuckled, that's pretty much the idea and most tech shoes are shaped to work in that fashion, your feet aren't so it'll take some getting used to.
At the end of the day, the shoes are out there if you want to persist with the tighter fit and equally, if you don't, there are plenty of more forgiving fits out there, like the spirit. The compromise is that an easier fitting shoe will always be a compromise on precision and power. A precise and powerful fit will always be a compromise on comfort.
Post edited at 10:51

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