UKC

Trad in Europe recommendation

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 JanBella 22 Jan 2014

Could you recommend where in Europe is good for single/multipitch trad climbing? I got about 16 days off in May so could possibly cover few places... Thank you J.
Post edited at 20:29
 AlanLittle 22 Jan 2014
In reply to JanBella:

Scotland?

May is a great time of year for the North West, one of the most beautiful places on earth with some of the best trad climbing.

I'd go there or Cornwall, depending on the weather forecast, if I had two weeks to go trad climbing in May.
 pavelk 22 Jan 2014
In reply to JanBella:
Czech sandstone!
www.piskari.cz/
http://www.skalnimesta.cz/en/rock-towns.html
http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=2467
also around our northen border in Germany and Poland
Post edited at 21:06
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 22 Jan 2014
In reply to JanBella:

Norway and Sweden,


Chris
 Dr Toph 23 Jan 2014
In reply to JanBella:

If you're determined to get out of the UK (otherwise I would second the vote for NW scotland - May is the best time of year!), have a look at Valle D'Orco in NW Italy. Big granite walls and splitter cracks. Some bolted lines but mostly a strong trad ethic. Bit like a wee Yosemite without the tourist crowds.
For example...
http://www.gulliver.it/itinerario/8901/
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=4114
 TobyA 23 Jan 2014
In reply to JanBella:

SW Sweden, Gothenburg up to the Norwegian border (Bohuslan really) has more trad cragging then you can imagine. Cheap flights and you can camp legally for free most places - plus there are the climbers bunkhouses/camp ground.
 Bulls Crack 24 Jan 2014
In reply to JanBella:

Pembroke, North Wales Cornwall...seriously!
In reply to JanBella:

Morocco (but stick to the shade in May)

Martin
 kevin stephens 24 Jan 2014
In reply to AlanLittle:
> Scotland?

> May is a great time of year for the North West, one of the most beautiful places on earth with some of the best trad climbing.

> I'd go there or Cornwall, depending on the weather forecast, if I had two weeks to go trad climbing in May.

This, including a few days at Fairhead (ferry from Scotland)
Post edited at 22:18
 Aigen 25 Jan 2014
In reply to JanBella:

If you want Europe Val dOrco and then a short drive to Val dMello.
In reply to Aigen:

> If you want Europe Val dOrco and then a short drive to Val dMello.

... or Cadarese. There's a lot more in NW Italy in fact. Less famous lateral valleys etc. Only problem may be the weather. Spring can be quite wet down here. Corners and dihedrals won't be in conditions in May. I think this probably applies to any area...

NE Sardinia is also an option. Might be even warm enough for some swimming. Still mostly unexplored.

Ciao,

Nic
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