/ Helmet for Scottish winter climbing and alps in the summer ?

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jamesclimbing - on 23 Jan 2014
The helmets Im looking at are the petzl meteor 3 or the Girvel Salamander Climbing Helmet
Any advice will be welcome
climbwhenready - on 23 Jan 2014
In reply to jamesclimbing:

Just got the Meteor (today!) for British summer climbing - very happy with it, but as a softshell I don't think it's what you want for Scottish winter or alpine climbing. One good hit will certainly crack it - that's how softshells absorb impact.
In reply to climbwhenready:

> One good hit will certainly crack it - that's how softshells absorb impact.

A hit hard enough to crack a Meteor would (or should!) probably have you going to the hospital anyway. They don't just fall in half at the first decent sized bit of ice that bounces off them, promise. Plus I suspect a blow hard enough to crack a foam helmet would also write off a hybrid too. I guess if you were in a rockfall situation and got hit more than once, a hybrid or cradle helmet would be a better bet, but the situation is going to be pretty terrible either way - and those helmets have disadvantages too - less protection a side on impact (a swing fall for example).

In reply to jamesclimbing:

Have a read of http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=4905 and see what you reckon is best for your needs.
andy.smythe - on 23 Jan 2014
In reply to jamesclimbing:

dont know much about helmets but I really like the wild country 360. Seems to be the best of both worlds. The grivel one is nice too, worn one as a loan a few times when I forot mine. I only wore it in winter but it seemed it could be a bit warm in the summer.
WJV0912 on 23 Jan 2014
I've used both the Meteor and the WC 360 and had moderate rock fall destroy both of those. Subsequently I did some digging to find something all round more durable without the disadvantages of either. Mind you it is a little bit more heavy but it's lasted me for 5 years all over the world. It's from a lesser known scandinavian company called Warrior Headgear, initially designed for arctic warfare but it does the job for general mountaineering quite well too.

http://i42.tinypic.com/11170iq.jpg
climbwhenready - on 23 Jan 2014
In reply to TobyA:

> A hit hard enough to crack a Meteor would (or should!) probably have you going to the hospital anyway. They don't just fall in half at the first decent sized bit of ice that bounces off them, promise.

Very good to know! The side impact protection is why I got it. Glad that you say it's tough!
forcan - on 23 Jan 2014
In reply to jamesclimbing:

Grivel Salamander XL - you can fit a chunky hat under it as well!!!
Mr Trebus - on 23 Jan 2014
In reply to forcan:

> Grivel Salamander XL - you can fit a chunky hat under it as well!!!

Or a buff if you have a massive head like me.

I like the salamander as an all-rounder.
dutybooty - on 23 Jan 2014
In reply to jamesclimbing:

I'm a huge fan of the salamander. Been using one since I started climbing.

On my third now though...

Hi,

You're comparing an in-mould with a hard-shell. They live in two different realms. The Salamander is an excellent ice climbing and general mountaineering helmet. It's not that light, but it's very durable. I've been having mine for few years now and it's only got few scratches, no dents, nothing to raise any concern. The only thing I don't like about it is the rear wheel which is not adjustable in height and it broke once, though Grivel promptly replaced it free of charge (it was within the warranty period). It fits me well, but I wonder whether it fits that well anyone else. In fact, they have a Small and a XL version too. No wonder. It comes with optional extra padding for the sides which I am in fact using. Not the simplest chin strap to adjust. In-moulds are all a lot lighter and generally more ventilated. I use a Scarab which is conceptually not that different from the Meteor III you're looking at, which by the way is widely appreciated, or any other in-mould helmet for that matter. It's multi purpose and EN-rated for different sports too. I use mine in the summer. I used it in winter too, but personally I find it a little too fragile. I dropped it once and it's already got a dent. Everyone I know who uses in-mould helmets have gone through few of them already. But they bought them again, which tells me ultimately they're worth it. In-moulds are the only helmets that people can claim they forget they have it on, imo. A bit of a marketing talk there, but you know what I mean. Hope the above helps.

Ciao!

Nic
Post edited at 14:33
planetmarshall on 24 Jan 2014
In reply to climbwhenready:

> Just got the Meteor (today!) for British summer climbing - very happy with it, but as a softshell I don't think it's what you want for Scottish winter or alpine climbing.

I've just started wearing a Meteor in winter, mainly due to the weight saving, having previously used a BD Half Dome. Personally I find the meteor is not as good in wilder weather due to the shape, which prevents you from pulling a hood down over the front.
GridNorth - on 24 Jan 2014
In reply to jamesclimbing:

I've just bought one of those Petzl things that makes you look like a tangerine on a stick but I don't care, it's so light and comfortable that it's easy to forget you are wearing it and if its good enough for Ueli Steck it's good enough for me. When I put my Meteor back on after wearing it, it felt awful.
Hay - on 24 Jan 2014
In reply to jamesclimbing:
Hi James.
Ive got lots of climbing partners who use lightweight helmets in winter but I also know someone who had a ten pence sized hole punched in a Elios by an icicle.
Pretty sure they'd have been in trouble wearing a lightweight.
The Salamander is a good all rounder I think ... Tough and robust enough for ze mountains but decent rear and side bump protection for cragging.
Bruce


crayefish - on 24 Jan 2014
In reply to Mr Trebus:

> Or a buff if you have a massive head like me.

> I like the salamander as an all-rounder.

It was the only helmet to fit my hugely inflated ego. Sorry I mean head...

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