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Topic - Crag swag lost & found stories

wilkie14c - on 24 Jan 2014
Wicamoi gives some pretty sensible guidelines for the touchy <for some> subject of crag swag. Any stories to tell about that lucky nut you found or and epic caused by stuck gear?
My lost and found:
Lost <well abandoned really> sling and crab on the knob/horn thing on belay 1, ash tree slabs, Gimmer. It was the first time we'd even been there and we had it to ourselves, cold and damp but worth the effort. Did gimmer chimney, bracket and slab, ash tree slabs and one of the severe letter routes above. By the top it was drizzling and not far off dark, the 1st abb was no problem, the boulder/chain one. back on the ledge I'd read there was an abb at the astrix end, unless there is tat on it, it can be missed esp in fading light and never even seeing the astrix wall before. I found a good anchor and proceeded down ash tree slabs, we thought that was the abb off. Both down in one, no drama but the nice for climbing slab angle is a nightmare for pulling ropes and yes, we got em stuck fast. We should have walked away there and then, but no, we reasoned that we'd enough rope to get to first pitch then when both were there we'd have enough rope to protect the climb up to where the knot was jammed. This worked out fine with Dave down climbing, still protected, back to me. I'd spyed up the horn/spike already for the abb off and being heavier, dave went down first, the anchor was backed up at this point. My turn and I stripped the belay and gingerly weighted the abb. Changing positions like this I saw the spike wasn't really as good as it looked but being committed now I got down as smooth and as fast as I dared. I shit myself looking up at a poorly placed sling on a 'roll offable' spike. Cold, wet, tired, a long way to walk in the dark and pushed too close to the edge. All for the sake of a pair of ropes, stupid. Whoever found that sling and screw were welcome to them, I wouldn't dare asking.
Found - 1 Red CLOG screwy - Skye. The first time I'd done the ridge. Just old enough to be of use but old enough to be of interest. It was my lead after dave had lead the TD gap. Wet, tired and with floppy shoes I threw myself at it and found it thrutchy but secure if you jammed stuff in that corner crack, anything, arms, leg, feet...
Gear was good, couple of slung chocks then it gets a bit bare, and you know you have that wild traverse move up ahead, Then you see it, a perfect slung chock right where you want it. eye-eye, I see gear I thinks, yep, a screwgate that look reasonably recent. I'm having that I say as I clip it. Still got it, don't take it out but it's one of those little keepsakes. It must have really clagged in the day it was left. It was obvious that the leader got to the traverse right and preferred to be lowered off than make the move, prob in the wet. Fair play to him for making the call, I hope they completed the ridge via the wonderful Collies ledge. I'll prob never do the Kings chimney again, always opting for Collies but I'm glad I did it and have something to remember it by.


http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=575820&v=1#x7650620
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