UKC

I know there are a few tinkerers on here so was wondering if any of the tinkerers had tinkered with electrolytic rust removal on any rusty metal in their mancave?
I have been given a load of tools that have rusted but will still be serviceable after a good clean, so I would be interested in any experiences either positive or negative.

In reply to mwr72:
I have dabbled and found that putting a car battery in series with the charger gives better results. Most battery chargers get a bit funny without a battery load in the circuit

In reply to woolsack:

How do you arrange things? This sounds interesting.

In reply to woolsack:

cheers.

I've done a little reading(Google) and everyone who does this at home seems to use a plastic tub for the electrolytic fluid then the positive connected to either steel rods placed in each corner of the tub, or use steel plate for the electrodes, would there be any reason a steel container with the positive terminal connected directly to the steel tub couldn't be used to give better coverage?

In reply to mwr72:

I used a plastic bucket but I can't see why a steel bucket couldn't be used assuming it was not itself covered in rust

After a day or so the surface is covered in a fairly filthy rusty scum so anything that is easy cleanable is best

In reply to woolsack:

Thanks.
(A "Like" button is really needed!)

In reply to mwr72:

If you use a steel container as the positive electrode (anode) it would gradually dissolve and eventually leak. Obviously the time to leak depends on the current passed and the thickness of the container.

In reply to mwr72:

Don't forget that the bubbles coming off are browns gas (HO) and can be quite explosive

In reply to Horse:

So probably best using plates in a plastic tub?

In reply to woolsack:

Yes, I know it's explosive, any work done would be outside

In reply to mwr72:

Here are couple of approaches demonstrated on youtube.
youtube.com/watch?v=y4yYF8gSHdA&
youtube.com/watch?v=IrDpd1ErNk8&
Both refer to American products.

The washing soda used in the electrolysis clip will be sodium carbonate and can be hard to find in Europe these days but it is out there.

The second clip shows an acid bath product that is almost certainly closely related to vinegar or fruit juice! A popular British product that uses similar principles is Hammerite Rust Remover which is a citric acid gel. The gel is used for applying to rust patches after cleaning off the worst with a wire brush or such like.

I was given a very rusty, but complete, tool kit for an Indian Chief. Considering its value I was reluctant to de-rust it in any aggressive way. I threw all the tools into a bucket of molasses for a couple of days and they emerged nice and bright - even the pitting was cleaned out!

In reply to mwr72:

Thanks for the replies so far.

One other question I have is why is it not recommended to use stainless steel? is it that it gives off poisonous gas or is it detrimental to the steel being cleaned?

In reply to mwr72:

I don't think stainless works very well as it's iron content can be low

In reply to mwr72:

Because of the Chromium and Nickel contents, stainless steels have a different reactivity to other steels and irons. Different types of SS can be wildly different to each other.

In reply to Jim Fraser:

If a significant current is passed through the anode (stainless steel) the metals go into solution as ions. Chromium is likely to form chromate's in the electrolyte; chromates are toxic requiring careful handling and disposal. There may also be a risk of that chromium and nickel ions might plate out on the cathode, the thing you are trying to clean.