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For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week’s (357) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=575898
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week's (356) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=575183
Who's doing the posts for the next few weeks:
02/2 - mbh
09/2 - Eagle River
16/2 - Eagle River
23/2 - mbh
02/3 – mbh
Eagle River – Lame trip
AndrewW – Any climbing this week?
Alun – Welcome.
Exile – Still maintaining the steady weight loss?
Nick Russell – Pick up the volume this week?
Grubes – Been back to Brimham? Or was the week too busy?
Hms – Any more 7a success at UCR?
Joughton – Been back to those leading ladder routes at Stockport?
Stevemarkperry – back on the high volume this week?
Humperdink – Have you recovered from illness?
Sankey – Any more trouble from the wheelie-bin injury?
Mbh – How many miles sub 7:30 this week?
Dandan82 – Found an indoor 7b to have a go of?
IainRUK – Another >100mile week?
Mrchewy – Grit in winter really is the tits. All friction, no midges.
Ali – Have you got your eye on any particular 7c?
Mattrm – well done on your first V3, what kind of Yoga do you do?
JimmyKay – How is the knee holding up?
The New NickB – Did you get your 45miles in this week?
Si Cox – Any luck on the V2-4 circuit? How are the niggles?
Maria85 – January is almost over, MOTIVATION WILL RETURN!
Nomics – Any progress at Boulder UK? Tyler said he got some V6s this week so it MUST be an easy set?
Tyler – MCC bouldering comp champion?
Ally Smith – How is the campus board going? Did you get some help this weekend?
Pork pie girl – Did you get to Malham? Saw you looking for conditions updates…
Biscuit – Eating vegetables and sleeping more??
Curious Yellow – Good to have you back! You seem to be bouldering really well at the moment.
Jamming Dodger – How are you getting on with the pre Chorro training?
AJM – Stop Gloating!
Luke Owens – more bouldering this week?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week’s (357) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=575898
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week's (356) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=575183
Who's doing the posts for the next few weeks:
02/2 - mbh
09/2 - Eagle River
16/2 - Eagle River
23/2 - mbh
02/3 – mbh
Eagle River – Lame trip
AndrewW – Any climbing this week?
Alun – Welcome.
Exile – Still maintaining the steady weight loss?
Nick Russell – Pick up the volume this week?
Grubes – Been back to Brimham? Or was the week too busy?
Hms – Any more 7a success at UCR?
Joughton – Been back to those leading ladder routes at Stockport?
Stevemarkperry – back on the high volume this week?
Humperdink – Have you recovered from illness?
Sankey – Any more trouble from the wheelie-bin injury?
Mbh – How many miles sub 7:30 this week?
Dandan82 – Found an indoor 7b to have a go of?
IainRUK – Another >100mile week?
Mrchewy – Grit in winter really is the tits. All friction, no midges.
Ali – Have you got your eye on any particular 7c?
Mattrm – well done on your first V3, what kind of Yoga do you do?
JimmyKay – How is the knee holding up?
The New NickB – Did you get your 45miles in this week?
Si Cox – Any luck on the V2-4 circuit? How are the niggles?
Maria85 – January is almost over, MOTIVATION WILL RETURN!
Nomics – Any progress at Boulder UK? Tyler said he got some V6s this week so it MUST be an easy set?
Tyler – MCC bouldering comp champion?
Ally Smith – How is the campus board going? Did you get some help this weekend?
Pork pie girl – Did you get to Malham? Saw you looking for conditions updates…
Biscuit – Eating vegetables and sleeping more??
Curious Yellow – Good to have you back! You seem to be bouldering really well at the moment.
Jamming Dodger – How are you getting on with the pre Chorro training?
AJM – Stop Gloating!
Luke Owens – more bouldering this week?
In reply to Eagle River:
Not much for me this week. Felt pretty run down but no illness kicked in properly.
Went for a boulder on saturday and felt WEAK. Tried Campusing for the first time in years and was embarrassed by how hard it felt just doing 1-4-5s. Think I need to redress the balance of route training and bouldering. hopefully a full week of training next week, 3 climbs, 2 yoga sessions.
Not much for me this week. Felt pretty run down but no illness kicked in properly.
Went for a boulder on saturday and felt WEAK. Tried Campusing for the first time in years and was embarrassed by how hard it felt just doing 1-4-5s. Think I need to redress the balance of route training and bouldering. hopefully a full week of training next week, 3 climbs, 2 yoga sessions.
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers for doing Fit Club! I'd like to do Hall of Mirrors at Portland, but getting slightly depressed by weather - I have limited weekends to get down and the last couple of times the weather has been too bad to try. May have to wait til next winter. Though likely to be more up Yorkshire/Peak way over the summer all being well so if you know of any good 7cs to try then I'm open to recommendations. Ideally at a crag which has 6a-6c options too, which I appreciate may be asking a bit much!
Bit of a quiet week, missed mid-week sessions due to work and visitors.
Thurs - ran to work (5.5ish miles) - felt ok but was slow on the time
Fri - ran part way to work - was running late so had to take the tube to get in on time! (4ish miles)
Sat - 6.5 miles round the north downs - nice but VERY muddy!
Sun - routes at Reach - pretty aweful session, nothing worth mentioning done, felt very tired and lethargic, which in retrospect may have been something to do with drinking wine last night.
Think I may look at going dry til Chulilla, or at least not drinking before climbing sessions. Don't feel hungover at all but had about 3/4 bottle wine last night and I'm pretty sure that's why I had a bad session. Though I do have half a bottle of white still in the fridge...
Cheers for doing Fit Club! I'd like to do Hall of Mirrors at Portland, but getting slightly depressed by weather - I have limited weekends to get down and the last couple of times the weather has been too bad to try. May have to wait til next winter. Though likely to be more up Yorkshire/Peak way over the summer all being well so if you know of any good 7cs to try then I'm open to recommendations. Ideally at a crag which has 6a-6c options too, which I appreciate may be asking a bit much!
Bit of a quiet week, missed mid-week sessions due to work and visitors.
Thurs - ran to work (5.5ish miles) - felt ok but was slow on the time
Fri - ran part way to work - was running late so had to take the tube to get in on time! (4ish miles)
Sat - 6.5 miles round the north downs - nice but VERY muddy!
Sun - routes at Reach - pretty aweful session, nothing worth mentioning done, felt very tired and lethargic, which in retrospect may have been something to do with drinking wine last night.
Think I may look at going dry til Chulilla, or at least not drinking before climbing sessions. Don't feel hungover at all but had about 3/4 bottle wine last night and I'm pretty sure that's why I had a bad session. Though I do have half a bottle of white still in the fridge...
In reply to Eagle River:
Easy one to report this week:
M-Sat: Lurgy
Sun: Depot with Nomics. Mainly comp circuit up to 15 + 18, and some purples/woods. Got tired quickly and shattered now.
Still coughing and feeling run down, going to be a low achievement week but hopefully a little more than this week...
Easy one to report this week:
M-Sat: Lurgy
Sun: Depot with Nomics. Mainly comp circuit up to 15 + 18, and some purples/woods. Got tired quickly and shattered now.
Still coughing and feeling run down, going to be a low achievement week but hopefully a little more than this week...
In reply to Eagle River:
Sorry.
Had a lovely day doing the Camino del Ray today.
(oh and in the last week onsighted 3 7a+s, I think, a 7b, flashed a 7a (the one you did?) and fell off Honk Down as described. And I get to go to Makinodromo this week sometime. Yes, I know, I'm a tw*t)
Hugs and kisses,
Andy
Ps Ali - I will try and drop you all a mail re Chulilla some point - I assume with a larger group (4? 5?) you have a hire car? What are your accommodation plans? Happy to do a supermarket run for a few days worth of food In time for your arrival since from memory you arrive quite late.
> AJM – Stop Gloating!
Sorry.
Had a lovely day doing the Camino del Ray today.
(oh and in the last week onsighted 3 7a+s, I think, a 7b, flashed a 7a (the one you did?) and fell off Honk Down as described. And I get to go to Makinodromo this week sometime. Yes, I know, I'm a tw*t)
Hugs and kisses,
Andy
Ps Ali - I will try and drop you all a mail re Chulilla some point - I assume with a larger group (4? 5?) you have a hire car? What are your accommodation plans? Happy to do a supermarket run for a few days worth of food In time for your arrival since from memory you arrive quite late.
In reply to Eagle River:
M: Set off on first run since calf strain last week, felt fine.....for half a kilometre. Hobbled home
T: Boulder UK, new set upstairs. I thought I was having a wonder session until it dawned on me that someone must have knicked Ian's marker pen and regraded the routes. Everything I tried was at least a grade over.
W: Deadhangs at home
T: Rest
F: Boulder comp at MCC. Bit of an embarrassing incident when I all but accused the guy who won my category of cheating as I saw him fall off everything. Then he told me it was for the aggregate of all three rounds. I was suitably shamefaced but nicked his prize anyway.
S: Painting a flat
S: A couple of hours at Rockover
Injuries: Calf strain and my. Index finger swollen with a sore joint.
Weight and diet: Not checked on scales but I thought I had a noticeable six pack but it was an indent caused by my compression top which had ruffled up.
M: Set off on first run since calf strain last week, felt fine.....for half a kilometre. Hobbled home
T: Boulder UK, new set upstairs. I thought I was having a wonder session until it dawned on me that someone must have knicked Ian's marker pen and regraded the routes. Everything I tried was at least a grade over.
W: Deadhangs at home
T: Rest
F: Boulder comp at MCC. Bit of an embarrassing incident when I all but accused the guy who won my category of cheating as I saw him fall off everything. Then he told me it was for the aggregate of all three rounds. I was suitably shamefaced but nicked his prize anyway.
S: Painting a flat
S: A couple of hours at Rockover
Injuries: Calf strain and my. Index finger swollen with a sore joint.
Weight and diet: Not checked on scales but I thought I had a noticeable six pack but it was an indent caused by my compression top which had ruffled up.
Post edited at 18:44
In reply to Eagle River:
M - 10.0 miles, 7:43 pace.
T - nothing
W - 5.7 miles. Meant to go further but felt rotten so didn't.
T -
F - 11.5 miles, in fog, lots of mud, working out the route as I went. It turned out to have a shape like the outline of Australia. 7:53 pace.
S - 17.2 miles, with 10 minutes or so pause in the middle. If it weren't for that, 7:54 pace and lots of this holding a fairly constant 7:30-7:45 pace, which I am not normally very good at doing. Afterwards, the top of my tight foot was quite painful, and continued to be until the morning. Later, went to see American Hustle, but didn't get to see the end because a fire started in the building next door and we all had to evacuate. I was lost anyway. Passed lots of fire engines on the way home.
S - 10.0 miles, 7:29 pace, dosed up on ibuprufen for the still hurting foot, knocking a good minute off my PB for this route. Then another 5 miles later on. No, actually I just made that lat bit up. It's my fantasy but the reality is I won't, which is why I am posting now. The weather is awful. I was lucky earlier on. My wife is out in sleet and gales now. Have lit the fire to provide a welcoming return. However, typing this has also led to me forgetting that the rice was on. My second blackened saucepan of the weekend....
54 miles for the week and 870 m of ascent, both less than I meant to do at the outset, but 37 of the miles were at better than 8:00 pace, 14 of which were at under 7:30 pace and a stonking 5 at better than 7:00 pace, including the last one. Gravity helped with some of those, but not with most. I now seem to be able to go over ten miles at better than 8:00 pace fairly comfortably. My legs are faster than my head (which says it has other things to do) gives them credit for.
M - 10.0 miles, 7:43 pace.
T - nothing
W - 5.7 miles. Meant to go further but felt rotten so didn't.
T -
F - 11.5 miles, in fog, lots of mud, working out the route as I went. It turned out to have a shape like the outline of Australia. 7:53 pace.
S - 17.2 miles, with 10 minutes or so pause in the middle. If it weren't for that, 7:54 pace and lots of this holding a fairly constant 7:30-7:45 pace, which I am not normally very good at doing. Afterwards, the top of my tight foot was quite painful, and continued to be until the morning. Later, went to see American Hustle, but didn't get to see the end because a fire started in the building next door and we all had to evacuate. I was lost anyway. Passed lots of fire engines on the way home.
S - 10.0 miles, 7:29 pace, dosed up on ibuprufen for the still hurting foot, knocking a good minute off my PB for this route. Then another 5 miles later on. No, actually I just made that lat bit up. It's my fantasy but the reality is I won't, which is why I am posting now. The weather is awful. I was lucky earlier on. My wife is out in sleet and gales now. Have lit the fire to provide a welcoming return. However, typing this has also led to me forgetting that the rice was on. My second blackened saucepan of the weekend....
54 miles for the week and 870 m of ascent, both less than I meant to do at the outset, but 37 of the miles were at better than 8:00 pace, 14 of which were at under 7:30 pace and a stonking 5 at better than 7:00 pace, including the last one. Gravity helped with some of those, but not with most. I now seem to be able to go over ten miles at better than 8:00 pace fairly comfortably. My legs are faster than my head (which says it has other things to do) gives them credit for.
In reply to Eagle River:
Yeah, got three wall sessions in, plus a fingerboard. Only one swim, but I really needed a rest so was actually quite relieved when my coach told us Wednesday was cancelled! I reckon I'll be down a wall session next week, but will be back to 2 swims and will add in a core session. Thanks for doing the stats!
M - Yoga, swimming (2.6km)
T - TCA. 7 laps on the 6b+ traverse. I think I got the intensity about right, dropped off about 4 moves from the end of the last one.
W - Rest
T - 8km run (4:54/km), fingerboard. Felt way stronger than last week, but I think the beastmaker can be really conditions-dependent...
F - Climbing at UCR with hms
S - Climbing at UCR. Expected to be really tired after Friday, but actually felt better somehow!
S - Rest (spent most of the day eating at a Japanese cookery class)
I think my indoor routes sessions are coming on well. I remember a time when I could just about manage one 6b+ or 6c, then I'd be done. Now I'm doing a couple of 6b+ in my warm-up and having a few decent goes at 7a. Got higher on the 7a I tried last week (black + yellow spots, 'corkscrew wall'), came off on the last move!
Also did some practice falls on Saturday. I've put off doing this before because I convince myself I feel confident enough, but that reluctance is enough to tell me I should actually be doing it! My system is clip bolt 3, then climb up to bolt 4 and jump off; after this, get straight back on and drop from above every bolt to the top. I get at least twice as much climbing per route so it's good endurance training too!
Short term goals (January)
Just get back into my usual training load after Christmas etc. Pretty much there. I'm happy with this intensity for now.
Make a training plan for the medium-term. Done
Medium term goals (March/April)
Some winter climbing. I have 2 free weekends in Feb...
Stick to the training plan that I finalise this month. 1/12 weeks down!
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Current best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Total to date: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 28/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in e.g. 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr. Coach informs me there are plenty of galas in March/April.
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
> Nick Russell – Pick up the volume this week?
Yeah, got three wall sessions in, plus a fingerboard. Only one swim, but I really needed a rest so was actually quite relieved when my coach told us Wednesday was cancelled! I reckon I'll be down a wall session next week, but will be back to 2 swims and will add in a core session. Thanks for doing the stats!
M - Yoga, swimming (2.6km)
T - TCA. 7 laps on the 6b+ traverse. I think I got the intensity about right, dropped off about 4 moves from the end of the last one.
W - Rest
T - 8km run (4:54/km), fingerboard. Felt way stronger than last week, but I think the beastmaker can be really conditions-dependent...
F - Climbing at UCR with hms
S - Climbing at UCR. Expected to be really tired after Friday, but actually felt better somehow!
S - Rest (spent most of the day eating at a Japanese cookery class)
I think my indoor routes sessions are coming on well. I remember a time when I could just about manage one 6b+ or 6c, then I'd be done. Now I'm doing a couple of 6b+ in my warm-up and having a few decent goes at 7a. Got higher on the 7a I tried last week (black + yellow spots, 'corkscrew wall'), came off on the last move!
Also did some practice falls on Saturday. I've put off doing this before because I convince myself I feel confident enough, but that reluctance is enough to tell me I should actually be doing it! My system is clip bolt 3, then climb up to bolt 4 and jump off; after this, get straight back on and drop from above every bolt to the top. I get at least twice as much climbing per route so it's good endurance training too!
Short term goals (January)
Just get back into my usual training load after Christmas etc. Pretty much there. I'm happy with this intensity for now.
Make a training plan for the medium-term. Done
Medium term goals (March/April)
Some winter climbing. I have 2 free weekends in Feb...
Stick to the training plan that I finalise this month. 1/12 weeks down!
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Current best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Total to date: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 28/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in e.g. 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr. Coach informs me there are plenty of galas in March/April.
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks for the summary.
M - Climbing outside; more project attempts, more failures.
T - 40 mins runnung.
W - Climbing outside; more project related deja vu. Seriously thinking about taking up tiddly winks. At least the weather was nice (sunny and 20 degrees; toasty!)
T - 30 mins running.
F - Resting.
S - Big session on woody (careful now); Pushed a few weights [weather sucky - serves me right for being smug].
W - Resting/trying not to get shot by local hunters.
Thanks for the summary.
M - Climbing outside; more project attempts, more failures.
T - 40 mins runnung.
W - Climbing outside; more project related deja vu. Seriously thinking about taking up tiddly winks. At least the weather was nice (sunny and 20 degrees; toasty!)
T - 30 mins running.
F - Resting.
S - Big session on woody (careful now); Pushed a few weights [weather sucky - serves me right for being smug].
W - Resting/trying not to get shot by local hunters.
Thanks ER. No more 7a success but it can't be far off - I seem to have a lot of near misses.
M bike commute
T bike commute, long fingerboard session in evening
W bike commute, TCA in evening. Tried a mix of easy ad hard stuff, plus a few circuits for bulk. Finally they are doing a round of resetting so should be new stuff soon. Really hope some new stuff goes up in the mothership - piddles me off it has just been frankly elitist comp finals problems for months now!
T bike commute, long TRX session in evening, concentrating on core but also some upper body.
F UCR with Nick. Felt rather under-powered, grip strength not it is should have been. Dozen routes inc lots of 6b+ and 2 goes at the hard yellow 7a by the cupboards. Fell off both times, but have now managed to lead the spooky top section so know I can do it!
S not a lot, 2 mile pavement walk.
S UCR new circuits - hoorah! Did ~10 circuits, inc up to 35 on the 7a+. Hopped back on at 23 and can get to the end. New hard thing downstairs too, grade unknown but for a comp so it ramps horribly. 1-30, then 25 - 39. Bloody knackered, fell off my 'warmdown' 6a!
2 weeks to Chorro - exciting. Nick, I should have asked if you had any route suggestions as I've seen your name pop up on a few I've been looking at...
M bike commute
T bike commute, long fingerboard session in evening
W bike commute, TCA in evening. Tried a mix of easy ad hard stuff, plus a few circuits for bulk. Finally they are doing a round of resetting so should be new stuff soon. Really hope some new stuff goes up in the mothership - piddles me off it has just been frankly elitist comp finals problems for months now!
T bike commute, long TRX session in evening, concentrating on core but also some upper body.
F UCR with Nick. Felt rather under-powered, grip strength not it is should have been. Dozen routes inc lots of 6b+ and 2 goes at the hard yellow 7a by the cupboards. Fell off both times, but have now managed to lead the spooky top section so know I can do it!
S not a lot, 2 mile pavement walk.
S UCR new circuits - hoorah! Did ~10 circuits, inc up to 35 on the 7a+. Hopped back on at 23 and can get to the end. New hard thing downstairs too, grade unknown but for a comp so it ramps horribly. 1-30, then 25 - 39. Bloody knackered, fell off my 'warmdown' 6a!
2 weeks to Chorro - exciting. Nick, I should have asked if you had any route suggestions as I've seen your name pop up on a few I've been looking at...
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers! Still suffering the scuffed knuckles... ahhh gritstone.
Anyways, first indoor V4 today, so that's one of this year's ticks out of the way.
Mon - Rubbish. Long physical day, the boulder room was packed and I was mullered. 6 x V0s and I sacked it off.
Tues - Rest day.
Wed - All the V0s (18) and then attacked a V4 with no joy, couldn't hold the first left crimp.
Thu - All the V0s and then onto the V4. Holding the crimp but not flexible enough to bring my right foot in and on to the next hold. Flashed a V3 again, this made me very happy.
Fri - 4x4s in the boulder room and then a few goes on the V4. Got my foot on the hold, rocked over but then the crimp slipped. Progress tho!
Sat - Much needed rest after going climbing 7 days in 8, work being mad and getting over the flu. Ice cream...
Sun - Climbing Station Loughboro. First visit. Did the easy V0/1 circuit, then tried/did some V2/3, flashed a couple of V3/4 and eventually flashed a V4/5 problem! My first indoor V4 but it felt very much like an outdoor sort of problem.
Great week. Tried right hard and it paid dividends after Saturday's rest.
Need to be way more flexible however, I think that would improve me most.
Cheers! Still suffering the scuffed knuckles... ahhh gritstone.
Anyways, first indoor V4 today, so that's one of this year's ticks out of the way.
Mon - Rubbish. Long physical day, the boulder room was packed and I was mullered. 6 x V0s and I sacked it off.
Tues - Rest day.
Wed - All the V0s (18) and then attacked a V4 with no joy, couldn't hold the first left crimp.
Thu - All the V0s and then onto the V4. Holding the crimp but not flexible enough to bring my right foot in and on to the next hold. Flashed a V3 again, this made me very happy.
Fri - 4x4s in the boulder room and then a few goes on the V4. Got my foot on the hold, rocked over but then the crimp slipped. Progress tho!
Sat - Much needed rest after going climbing 7 days in 8, work being mad and getting over the flu. Ice cream...
Sun - Climbing Station Loughboro. First visit. Did the easy V0/1 circuit, then tried/did some V2/3, flashed a couple of V3/4 and eventually flashed a V4/5 problem! My first indoor V4 but it felt very much like an outdoor sort of problem.
Great week. Tried right hard and it paid dividends after Saturday's rest.
Need to be way more flexible however, I think that would improve me most.
In reply to Eagle River:
Did 140 miles of bike commuting this week. Working 5 days in one week does not suit me at all but I got some decent mileage in at least.
A big posh meal last night with the obligatory wine and port and cheese has redressed the balance.
Was meant to be out riding today but the weather has been crap.
Five and a bit weeks to Spain. Should probably get some climbing in...
Did 140 miles of bike commuting this week. Working 5 days in one week does not suit me at all but I got some decent mileage in at least.
A big posh meal last night with the obligatory wine and port and cheese has redressed the balance.
Was meant to be out riding today but the weather has been crap.
Five and a bit weeks to Spain. Should probably get some climbing in...
In reply to hms:
I probably don't have many suggestions in the right grade range for you... My only 7 in the area (and first 7a!) was Arabesque on the Arab Steps. It's a good route if you like sustained and technical, rather than steep and thuggy. I had a play on Little Brown Baby (7a+), which is steep and thuggy, also very polished. I don't think it's hard for the grade, it does have a crux but the difficulty would mainly be the pump. El Truco del Almendruco is probably incorrectly graded at 7a, I couldn't work out the crux, but I wasn't really into sport climbing then so I could well be wrong!
If you fancy something a bit different, go do Amptrax or Africa. Amptrax is all bolted (even if the guide says otherwise), nothing harder than 6a+, and gets you to the top of Frontales - worth it for that!
Africa is a real adventure route. Once you make the 50m abseil in, you're pretty committed as it's the easiest way back up, and I wouldn't fancy the jump into the gorge... The traverse to the bottom of the climb is pretty harrowing (I distinctly remember using a big hex to hammer a slightly smaller hex into a crumbly pocket) and the bolting on pitch 1 leaves much to be desired (take some wires and skinny slings for threads). Pitch 2 is pretty well bolted, guidebook 6b+ but felt top end of that. Pitch 3 is all trad, about E2? We bailed at the top of this, because the guidebook doesn't make it at all clear which route to the top is 6b+ and which is 7a, and I wasn't sure that either of them were properly bolted.
> 2 weeks to Chorro - exciting. Nick, I should have asked if you had any route suggestions as I've seen your name pop up on a few I've been looking at...
I probably don't have many suggestions in the right grade range for you... My only 7 in the area (and first 7a!) was Arabesque on the Arab Steps. It's a good route if you like sustained and technical, rather than steep and thuggy. I had a play on Little Brown Baby (7a+), which is steep and thuggy, also very polished. I don't think it's hard for the grade, it does have a crux but the difficulty would mainly be the pump. El Truco del Almendruco is probably incorrectly graded at 7a, I couldn't work out the crux, but I wasn't really into sport climbing then so I could well be wrong!
If you fancy something a bit different, go do Amptrax or Africa. Amptrax is all bolted (even if the guide says otherwise), nothing harder than 6a+, and gets you to the top of Frontales - worth it for that!
Africa is a real adventure route. Once you make the 50m abseil in, you're pretty committed as it's the easiest way back up, and I wouldn't fancy the jump into the gorge... The traverse to the bottom of the climb is pretty harrowing (I distinctly remember using a big hex to hammer a slightly smaller hex into a crumbly pocket) and the bolting on pitch 1 leaves much to be desired (take some wires and skinny slings for threads). Pitch 2 is pretty well bolted, guidebook 6b+ but felt top end of that. Pitch 3 is all trad, about E2? We bailed at the top of this, because the guidebook doesn't make it at all clear which route to the top is 6b+ and which is 7a, and I wasn't sure that either of them were properly bolted.
In reply to Nick Russell:
m: 10.8 mile road run 6:40 pace
t: lunch: 7 mile trail run. pm: 7 miles with 4 x200m reps and 3 x 1600m at the track.
w: 13.3 mile road run 6:50 pace
t: 6.5 mile slow road run
f: lunch: 7 mile trail run. pm: 8.3 miles at 6:20 pace.. feeling better
s: 16 mile road and trail run.. 8:30 pace -12 brutal
s: 11.2 mile road and trail run.. 8:30 pace -12 so cold
Good week, plenty of good miles. Think I'll try to find a race next week.
m: 10.8 mile road run 6:40 pace
t: lunch: 7 mile trail run. pm: 7 miles with 4 x200m reps and 3 x 1600m at the track.
w: 13.3 mile road run 6:50 pace
t: 6.5 mile slow road run
f: lunch: 7 mile trail run. pm: 8.3 miles at 6:20 pace.. feeling better
s: 16 mile road and trail run.. 8:30 pace -12 brutal
s: 11.2 mile road and trail run.. 8:30 pace -12 so cold
Good week, plenty of good miles. Think I'll try to find a race next week.
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks for doing fit club. Just normal yoga? Not sure really. Hatha yoga maybe?
STG - Climb 6b (or v3 TICK!) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (1 lbs loss)
M - Rest
T - 20 min core and yoga
W - 1.5 hr yoga
T - 20 min core and yoga
F - 1 hour climbing
S - Rest
S - 250 dish tucks
Pretty good week I guess. The core workout I've been doing it a bit too 'shouldery' for my shoulders. That and the added yoga means the left shoulder is a bit stiff. So I ended up sacking off the extra climbing session and fingerboard session. Which isn't ideal. Next week I'm going to drop the extra yoga stuff, in favour of getting climbing done. But I hit most of the goals. Also I can now hit 100 dish tucks in a row, instead of having to do them in blocks of 50. Small bit of weight loss.
3 core - Yes
3 yoga - Yes
2 climbs - 1
1 fingerboard - 0
Good diet at the weekend!!! - it was burns night, so ate haggis, so no...
Goals for next week:
3 core (dish tucks!)
1 yoga
2 climbs
1 finger board
Thanks for doing fit club. Just normal yoga? Not sure really. Hatha yoga maybe?
STG - Climb 6b (or v3 TICK!) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (1 lbs loss)
M - Rest
T - 20 min core and yoga
W - 1.5 hr yoga
T - 20 min core and yoga
F - 1 hour climbing
S - Rest
S - 250 dish tucks
Pretty good week I guess. The core workout I've been doing it a bit too 'shouldery' for my shoulders. That and the added yoga means the left shoulder is a bit stiff. So I ended up sacking off the extra climbing session and fingerboard session. Which isn't ideal. Next week I'm going to drop the extra yoga stuff, in favour of getting climbing done. But I hit most of the goals. Also I can now hit 100 dish tucks in a row, instead of having to do them in blocks of 50. Small bit of weight loss.
3 core - Yes
3 yoga - Yes
2 climbs - 1
1 fingerboard - 0
Good diet at the weekend!!! - it was burns night, so ate haggis, so no...
Goals for next week:
3 core (dish tucks!)
1 yoga
2 climbs
1 finger board
In reply to Tyler: Ah that explains it! I couldn't believe he'd got the prize, didn't see him top a single problem... don't feel too embarrassed, me (and a few others) were thinking execs toy the same thing!
By the way, I was the one in the white vest and red (okay, a bit pink) shorts, think we shared some beta on the orange in the roof.
By the way, I was the one in the white vest and red (okay, a bit pink) shorts, think we shared some beta on the orange in the roof.
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks for the summary.
STG: Boulder 7A, redpoint 7b. do a 100km ride. Lose weight to 72/73kg.
MTG: Boulder 7B (specific project at local spot), redpoint 7c. Ride Etape Eryri (160km) in Snowdonia in June. Lose weight to under 70kg.
LTG: Redpoint 8a.
Current weight: 73.5kg.
M: Rode to work, 15km. Got lift back, for various reasons.
T: Lunchtime bouldering at wall
W: Rest
T: Lunchtime bouldering at wall. Rode home, 15km
F: Lunchtime bouldering at wall.
S: 47km road ride in 1hr50. First ride for ages, felt okay.
S: Bouldering at a nearby spot called Can Bruguera. After warming up I tried a 7A problem, worked the sequence, but failed several times on the final rock-over. i felt good though, and it will go next time.
General: 7A would be a new grade for me so looking forward to getting back on this problem. I have lost 4kg since the start of the year and it seems to be really paying off. Cycling wise I've still to get back into it properly but I was pleased to do a couple of hours on Saturday. I'm going to try to commute to work more this week.
Thanks for the summary.
STG: Boulder 7A, redpoint 7b. do a 100km ride. Lose weight to 72/73kg.
MTG: Boulder 7B (specific project at local spot), redpoint 7c. Ride Etape Eryri (160km) in Snowdonia in June. Lose weight to under 70kg.
LTG: Redpoint 8a.
Current weight: 73.5kg.
M: Rode to work, 15km. Got lift back, for various reasons.
T: Lunchtime bouldering at wall
W: Rest
T: Lunchtime bouldering at wall. Rode home, 15km
F: Lunchtime bouldering at wall.
S: 47km road ride in 1hr50. First ride for ages, felt okay.
S: Bouldering at a nearby spot called Can Bruguera. After warming up I tried a 7A problem, worked the sequence, but failed several times on the final rock-over. i felt good though, and it will go next time.
General: 7A would be a new grade for me so looking forward to getting back on this problem. I have lost 4kg since the start of the year and it seems to be really paying off. Cycling wise I've still to get back into it properly but I was pleased to do a couple of hours on Saturday. I'm going to try to commute to work more this week.
In reply to Eagle River: cheers for taking fit club Steve!
Pretty good week for me but I ended up doing too much bouldering out of convenience, and not enough routes to get fitter!
Mon - Rockover bouldering, good session. Max V6, a couple flashed.
Tue - rest
Wed - AW Stockport. Warmed up doing a few routes then flashed all the steep V5s on the left and tried the last of the V6s, then spent an hour working the system board. It's great training, I can feel myself progressing week on week at long, powerful moves.
Thur - rest
Fri - MCC boulder comp. Did pretty well, flashed a lot and came fourth over all three rounds I think, which isn't bad for me in a strong adult category. Scored 266/340.
Sat - rest
Sun - set an endurance circuit on the board but I made it a bit too hard, spent the whole session just doing one lap, let alone several! Will tweak it later...
Next week the plan is to get some more endurance sessions in, as well as trying not to embarrass myself at the rocfest this weekend - cant wait!
I'm also due to hear back from Exeter Med School by the end of the month so that's something to keep me on edge!
Cheers, Jake
Pretty good week for me but I ended up doing too much bouldering out of convenience, and not enough routes to get fitter!
Mon - Rockover bouldering, good session. Max V6, a couple flashed.
Tue - rest
Wed - AW Stockport. Warmed up doing a few routes then flashed all the steep V5s on the left and tried the last of the V6s, then spent an hour working the system board. It's great training, I can feel myself progressing week on week at long, powerful moves.
Thur - rest
Fri - MCC boulder comp. Did pretty well, flashed a lot and came fourth over all three rounds I think, which isn't bad for me in a strong adult category. Scored 266/340.
Sat - rest
Sun - set an endurance circuit on the board but I made it a bit too hard, spent the whole session just doing one lap, let alone several! Will tweak it later...
Next week the plan is to get some more endurance sessions in, as well as trying not to embarrass myself at the rocfest this weekend - cant wait!
I'm also due to hear back from Exeter Med School by the end of the month so that's something to keep me on edge!
Cheers, Jake
In reply to Eagle River:
>.....and was embarrassed by how hard it felt just doing 1-4-5s.
Crikey, so that's how the other half live.... I could only do 1-4-5 if I was allowed to heel-hook the rungs! My campus board performance is usually 1-3-3-fall-in-a-mewling-heap!
>.....and was embarrassed by how hard it felt just doing 1-4-5s.
Crikey, so that's how the other half live.... I could only do 1-4-5 if I was allowed to heel-hook the rungs! My campus board performance is usually 1-3-3-fall-in-a-mewling-heap!
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers Steve,
No Return to brimham sadly however I now have a bike and am trying to learn how to ride it ...
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
Lose 8kg
MTG (June 2014):
complete my bike ride
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
???
This week's goals:
Climb in a busy week - Tick two sessions
M: Bought my bike and spent the evening falling off and getting scared by how fast it went. Reteaching myself how to ride
T: Went to a radio4 comedy night in huddersfield. Then 20mins on my bike riding up and down the street to build confidence.
W: 15mins ride up and down the street
Rokt. 2 hours. Bouldered about and then taught beginners on the top ropes.
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: 20mins early morning ride up and down the road for 1.5km 35m elivation. Then weighed myself for strava ... Ouch! that is bad.
S: Early morning ride. 4.4k ride on main roads not just my street Getting there.
Late morning Depot session. Saw Maria, Nomics and Moose 2 hours solid. completed another comp problem tried some of the harder ones. If I go back before the comp ends I should be able to 18, 19, 21, maybe 22 and 23.
Then did the most of wood circuit then tried some purples. Nice hard session felt drained.
Was gonna go out on the bike again but was too tired
Next week Goals:
7 rides in a week
1x5k and 1x10k min
Having not been on a bike in 15years I had forgotton how to ride and bike and a rode bike is so much different to a mountain bike.
I a currently incredibly nervous which is making it harder to learn how to ride but getting into it now.
Need to get training as my bike ride is only only 12 weeks away.
Hopefully riding the bike more help me lose weight which would be a bonus. If I can climb 6C(V5) at my current weight I look forward to what I can do much lighter.
Cheers Steve,
No Return to brimham sadly however I now have a bike and am trying to learn how to ride it ...
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
Lose 8kg
MTG (June 2014):
complete my bike ride
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
???
This week's goals:
Climb in a busy week - Tick two sessions
M: Bought my bike and spent the evening falling off and getting scared by how fast it went. Reteaching myself how to ride
T: Went to a radio4 comedy night in huddersfield. Then 20mins on my bike riding up and down the street to build confidence.
W: 15mins ride up and down the street
Rokt. 2 hours. Bouldered about and then taught beginners on the top ropes.
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: 20mins early morning ride up and down the road for 1.5km 35m elivation. Then weighed myself for strava ... Ouch! that is bad.
S: Early morning ride. 4.4k ride on main roads not just my street Getting there.
Late morning Depot session. Saw Maria, Nomics and Moose 2 hours solid. completed another comp problem tried some of the harder ones. If I go back before the comp ends I should be able to 18, 19, 21, maybe 22 and 23.
Then did the most of wood circuit then tried some purples. Nice hard session felt drained.
Was gonna go out on the bike again but was too tired
Next week Goals:
7 rides in a week
1x5k and 1x10k min
Having not been on a bike in 15years I had forgotton how to ride and bike and a rode bike is so much different to a mountain bike.
I a currently incredibly nervous which is making it harder to learn how to ride but getting into it now.
Need to get training as my bike ride is only only 12 weeks away.
Hopefully riding the bike more help me lose weight which would be a bonus. If I can climb 6C(V5) at my current weight I look forward to what I can do much lighter.
In reply to grubes:
Good on you for getting back on your bike. We took our kids off for a cycle tour around Brittany a few years ago. The youngest, then 15, had been promising to give bike riding a practice before we set out, but hadn't got around to it. As we set off for the train station, it was clear he didn't really know how to get off and on the bike, let alone ride in a straight line. He crashed on the way to the station, and fell into a bus stop as we crossed Plymouth on the way to the ferry. Only his outstretched foot kept him from veering into a shop front further on. But we made it to the ferry and a day later he was whizzing along and we had a great time. You'll be fine!
Good on you for getting back on your bike. We took our kids off for a cycle tour around Brittany a few years ago. The youngest, then 15, had been promising to give bike riding a practice before we set out, but hadn't got around to it. As we set off for the train station, it was clear he didn't really know how to get off and on the bike, let alone ride in a straight line. He crashed on the way to the station, and fell into a bus stop as we crossed Plymouth on the way to the ferry. Only his outstretched foot kept him from veering into a shop front further on. But we made it to the ferry and a day later he was whizzing along and we had a great time. You'll be fine!
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers for doing the stats ER.
Quiet week full of lurgy. I did eat more veg and sleep a bit better. Only started feeling better on Thursday. Just left with a cough now. Had one session at AW. Routes I'd done before felt hard and pumpy. The leading ladder 7a felt really hard. I kept falling off at a typical Vickers ' hold 2 crimps while smearing up the wall to a foothold level with your shoulder' move. That's fair enough but the vertical section after felt solid. I was climbing really statically. Not sure why. Trying to lock off and reach for things that were obviously out of reach. It's never been my strong point but this really showed my arse.
So I am going to concentrate on this style of route, get momentum on this type of move and tackle the weakness.
Lack of climbing of late has been poor. Illness, work, kids, life all seem to be getting in the way. Kids are starting in their new school this week. This can only make things easier.
5 weeks to chorro. I need to get into climbing mode again.
Cheers for doing the stats ER.
Quiet week full of lurgy. I did eat more veg and sleep a bit better. Only started feeling better on Thursday. Just left with a cough now. Had one session at AW. Routes I'd done before felt hard and pumpy. The leading ladder 7a felt really hard. I kept falling off at a typical Vickers ' hold 2 crimps while smearing up the wall to a foothold level with your shoulder' move. That's fair enough but the vertical section after felt solid. I was climbing really statically. Not sure why. Trying to lock off and reach for things that were obviously out of reach. It's never been my strong point but this really showed my arse.
So I am going to concentrate on this style of route, get momentum on this type of move and tackle the weakness.
Lack of climbing of late has been poor. Illness, work, kids, life all seem to be getting in the way. Kids are starting in their new school this week. This can only make things easier.
5 weeks to chorro. I need to get into climbing mode again.
In reply to Eagle River:
Morning ER, thanks for starting this and the stats. The thing is that Tyler's strong and I'm weak so his easy V6 is my Everest. He's apparently the strongest climber in his village!
STG: V6 and/or 7b indoors
MTG: better stats on 7a onsights
LTG: trad
Mon: hill reps
Tues: BoulderUK. New set downstairs, ticked 2 x V5s but neither flashed. Worked 2 x V6 upstairs, no cigar despite the downgrading to V5.
Weds: Local road run, 12.5km, 126m ascent, 5.07/km. New PB
Thurs: Kendal wall, my 7b+ project has gone! Probably a good thing as I felt weak on everything. Did some laps at the end in an effort to build some stamina.
Fri: Pendle Hill trail run 13.5km, 423m ascent. 7.11/km. Went to BoulderUK in the afternoon but still felt weak. Gave up fairly quickly and did some pull ups instead.
Sat: Forest of Bowland, 15.8km, 354m ascent. 5.56/km.
Sun: Depot with the great and the good. Tried the comp circuit then swtiched to the woods and purples.
My aim this week is to try hard at Kendal and get on the new 7b.
Morning ER, thanks for starting this and the stats. The thing is that Tyler's strong and I'm weak so his easy V6 is my Everest. He's apparently the strongest climber in his village!
STG: V6 and/or 7b indoors
MTG: better stats on 7a onsights
LTG: trad
Mon: hill reps
Tues: BoulderUK. New set downstairs, ticked 2 x V5s but neither flashed. Worked 2 x V6 upstairs, no cigar despite the downgrading to V5.
Weds: Local road run, 12.5km, 126m ascent, 5.07/km. New PB
Thurs: Kendal wall, my 7b+ project has gone! Probably a good thing as I felt weak on everything. Did some laps at the end in an effort to build some stamina.
Fri: Pendle Hill trail run 13.5km, 423m ascent. 7.11/km. Went to BoulderUK in the afternoon but still felt weak. Gave up fairly quickly and did some pull ups instead.
Sat: Forest of Bowland, 15.8km, 354m ascent. 5.56/km.
Sun: Depot with the great and the good. Tried the comp circuit then swtiched to the woods and purples.
My aim this week is to try hard at Kendal and get on the new 7b.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
it'll be 7b+ maybe by the time thursday comes as they're extending it. that's their plan anyway
it'll be 7b+ maybe by the time thursday comes as they're extending it. that's their plan anyway
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
Haha, well years ago 1-4-6 was standard level with the odd 1-4-7. Admittedly I've not been on a campus board footless for 4years but I assumed I'd not lost much power. Turns out I have.
Haha, well years ago 1-4-6 was standard level with the odd 1-4-7. Admittedly I've not been on a campus board footless for 4years but I assumed I'd not lost much power. Turns out I have.
In reply to Eagle River: aye up ER.. ta for doing FC this week...
was going to ask oyy the same about malham.. from the info i got re conditions it sounded like all we'd be able to do is lap consenting .. so just did indoor sessions if you plan on going becaue you've heard conditions are ok will you send me a text?
last week went like this:
m- turbo in garage..40 mins late at night.. bit of abs afterwards
t-no sleep the night beofre (well 2 hrs) bed as soon as i got in from work
w-garage mega sesh.. turbo for 50 mins at a good rate inc intervals.followed by weights (all muscle groups as usual) lots of reps of mainly wide grip pull ups.. 100 with no weight, 40 with 18lb weight, 80 narrow grip no weight. then an hour of 4x4s and 3x3s on about four or five different circuits on the garage board.. rests to do abs every 15 mins after each set completed.
t- kendal- mojo low.. endurance not quite there, right arm pumping out quickly. went up most stuff on the steep high wall, fell off most of it too. laps to finish.. improvements made as increased intensity. then cross trainer upstairs for 40mins
f- hill run- ingleborough, followed by bouldering in garage.. just over an hour of focussed PE session combined with core work
s- hill run- ingeborough (closet hill highest hill to me) ass kicked big time in really strong wind and rain... really battered.. kit was all wrong wrapped myself round a hot water bottle for half and hour then garage- weights, usual pull ups, core
s- kendal wall.. terrible sleep the night before didn';t expect much but vast improvements made ... leading things clean and trying hard. fizzled out at 5pm. step ups in the house
that's me.. looking forward to the week ahead.. if i can get through today after 1.5 hrs sleep.. and a long shift at work ahead.. i'll be crying with my chin on my handle bars in the garage tonight
off work tomorrow as taking mum for her forst scan results after treatment in the afternoon.. so i'll sleep in and train before i go.. keep myself occupied
oh.. off to spain next month.. yippee ))))
PPG
was going to ask oyy the same about malham.. from the info i got re conditions it sounded like all we'd be able to do is lap consenting .. so just did indoor sessions if you plan on going becaue you've heard conditions are ok will you send me a text?
last week went like this:
m- turbo in garage..40 mins late at night.. bit of abs afterwards
t-no sleep the night beofre (well 2 hrs) bed as soon as i got in from work
w-garage mega sesh.. turbo for 50 mins at a good rate inc intervals.followed by weights (all muscle groups as usual) lots of reps of mainly wide grip pull ups.. 100 with no weight, 40 with 18lb weight, 80 narrow grip no weight. then an hour of 4x4s and 3x3s on about four or five different circuits on the garage board.. rests to do abs every 15 mins after each set completed.
t- kendal- mojo low.. endurance not quite there, right arm pumping out quickly. went up most stuff on the steep high wall, fell off most of it too. laps to finish.. improvements made as increased intensity. then cross trainer upstairs for 40mins
f- hill run- ingleborough, followed by bouldering in garage.. just over an hour of focussed PE session combined with core work
s- hill run- ingeborough (closet hill highest hill to me) ass kicked big time in really strong wind and rain... really battered.. kit was all wrong wrapped myself round a hot water bottle for half and hour then garage- weights, usual pull ups, core
s- kendal wall.. terrible sleep the night before didn';t expect much but vast improvements made ... leading things clean and trying hard. fizzled out at 5pm. step ups in the house
that's me.. looking forward to the week ahead.. if i can get through today after 1.5 hrs sleep.. and a long shift at work ahead.. i'll be crying with my chin on my handle bars in the garage tonight
off work tomorrow as taking mum for her forst scan results after treatment in the afternoon.. so i'll sleep in and train before i go.. keep myself occupied
oh.. off to spain next month.. yippee ))))
PPG
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Yeah, I've heard that too.
> He's apparently the strongest climber in the village
Yeah, I've heard that too.
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers, a recovery of sorts....
M: Ill
Tu: Finally starting to feel better - just a flemmy cough
W: 5M steady in 33:10 - Got a call from the team manager about the South of England cross country on Saturday. Apparently we are without our three best runners and have several other drop-outs. He is desperate to get 6 on the line to stand a chance of a team medal. Told him my chances were slim
Th: 8M steady in 50:32 - felt pretty good so started to fool myself into thinking I could race on Saturday.
F: 3M easy in 20:12 + Strides. Team manager even more desperate - said I would start the race and see how I got on. If I felt rubbish or we weren't anywhere in the team standings he would tell me and I'd drop out.
Sa: South of England XC. A mild day for racing at the home of cross country running: Parliament Hill. A wet night had not done too much to the already saturated ground and a quick look at the course showed that this year was going to be particularly muddy (but then its always muddy!). 20 mins warm-up with the rest of the lads, felt ok, and it looks like on paper at least we have a chance of a medal. Strides on the way to the start (already muddy at that point) and then a nervous wait in the pen before the off. Gun goes and over 1000 runners charge up the starting hill. Need to get good position before the bottle-neck but its 9 miles so don't go too hard and then just try to relax..... So I started ok and was around the top 30 at the end of the first lap of three but after that it all started to go wrong as being ill found me out. Lap 2 was a struggle and I slipped back down the field was caught by another of our guys which really helped me keep it together. I have no idea how I got round the final lap but I managed to cling on and finished just behind the 5th scorer to complete the team. 15K in 55:36 and 50th (~980 finished). Importantly it was enough for us to finish 2nd team
Su: Check I am alive - yes, check body - ouch, who ran me over last night. Still not 100% so took the day off.
Other good news is I have been selected to run for the county in March at the intercounties XC.
Total: 27M. It wasn't sensible racing but the medal made it all worthwhile. It was a shame I wasn't fully fit overwise I think I'd have had a good go at getting inside the top 30. If anyone is having trouble sleeping there is some race footage here: http://www.athleticos.org/coverage/251344-2014-South-of-England-Cross-Count...
If you look hard you'll even see me dragging my carcass round!
Cheers, a recovery of sorts....
M: Ill
Tu: Finally starting to feel better - just a flemmy cough
W: 5M steady in 33:10 - Got a call from the team manager about the South of England cross country on Saturday. Apparently we are without our three best runners and have several other drop-outs. He is desperate to get 6 on the line to stand a chance of a team medal. Told him my chances were slim
Th: 8M steady in 50:32 - felt pretty good so started to fool myself into thinking I could race on Saturday.
F: 3M easy in 20:12 + Strides. Team manager even more desperate - said I would start the race and see how I got on. If I felt rubbish or we weren't anywhere in the team standings he would tell me and I'd drop out.
Sa: South of England XC. A mild day for racing at the home of cross country running: Parliament Hill. A wet night had not done too much to the already saturated ground and a quick look at the course showed that this year was going to be particularly muddy (but then its always muddy!). 20 mins warm-up with the rest of the lads, felt ok, and it looks like on paper at least we have a chance of a medal. Strides on the way to the start (already muddy at that point) and then a nervous wait in the pen before the off. Gun goes and over 1000 runners charge up the starting hill. Need to get good position before the bottle-neck but its 9 miles so don't go too hard and then just try to relax..... So I started ok and was around the top 30 at the end of the first lap of three but after that it all started to go wrong as being ill found me out. Lap 2 was a struggle and I slipped back down the field was caught by another of our guys which really helped me keep it together. I have no idea how I got round the final lap but I managed to cling on and finished just behind the 5th scorer to complete the team. 15K in 55:36 and 50th (~980 finished). Importantly it was enough for us to finish 2nd team
Su: Check I am alive - yes, check body - ouch, who ran me over last night. Still not 100% so took the day off.
Other good news is I have been selected to run for the county in March at the intercounties XC.
Total: 27M. It wasn't sensible racing but the medal made it all worthwhile. It was a shame I wasn't fully fit overwise I think I'd have had a good go at getting inside the top 30. If anyone is having trouble sleeping there is some race footage here: http://www.athleticos.org/coverage/251344-2014-South-of-England-Cross-Count...
If you look hard you'll even see me dragging my carcass round!
In reply to Ali:
Interesting musings on alcohol. My slighly disappointing session on Fri followed 1/2 bottle of red on Thurs evening. I do so hope there isn't a link. Haven't noticed it with beer, mind!
Interesting musings on alcohol. My slighly disappointing session on Fri followed 1/2 bottle of red on Thurs evening. I do so hope there isn't a link. Haven't noticed it with beer, mind!
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for the info, Nick. I knew your name had stuck in my mind for Chorro - it was the A&E comment on Arabesque. Does sound a good route. I'm a tad put off on LBB due to lots of mentions of polish, and I'm not sure stamina-fests are my forte! I think with AJM in full on-sight mode that I might be trying lots of stuff but getting to the top of rather less.
Thanks for the info, Nick. I knew your name had stuck in my mind for Chorro - it was the A&E comment on Arabesque. Does sound a good route. I'm a tad put off on LBB due to lots of mentions of polish, and I'm not sure stamina-fests are my forte! I think with AJM in full on-sight mode that I might be trying lots of stuff but getting to the top of rather less.
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks for doing FC fella
Still maintaining steady weight loss? - No - weekend away has put my morning weigh in at 12stone which is a bit of a wake up call really.
Aims for the year:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
M: 45min antagonistice weights & core
T: 1hr PE traverses at wall. Got blue L - R for first time, (real grade 7a?)
W: 50min PE traverses at wall. Got 2/3s of white, (real grade 7b?) traverse. 50min antagonistic weights & core
T: 50min road run
F: 1hr dry tooling - good endurance session
S: Rest
S: 1hr 20min P/PE traverses at wall - white 2/3s of way round steadily and working last 3rd
Weight this morning 12st - up on last week, real eye opener for me - must try harder!
Good volume and quality training week - crap weight loss.
Quite excited though as we're putting a 40 - 45degree woody into the small wall I use which should add really well to the PE / E training traverses.
Thanks for doing FC fella
Still maintaining steady weight loss? - No - weekend away has put my morning weigh in at 12stone which is a bit of a wake up call really.
Aims for the year:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
M: 45min antagonistice weights & core
T: 1hr PE traverses at wall. Got blue L - R for first time, (real grade 7a?)
W: 50min PE traverses at wall. Got 2/3s of white, (real grade 7b?) traverse. 50min antagonistic weights & core
T: 50min road run
F: 1hr dry tooling - good endurance session
S: Rest
S: 1hr 20min P/PE traverses at wall - white 2/3s of way round steadily and working last 3rd
Weight this morning 12st - up on last week, real eye opener for me - must try harder!
Good volume and quality training week - crap weight loss.
Quite excited though as we're putting a 40 - 45degree woody into the small wall I use which should add really well to the PE / E training traverses.
In reply to hms:
One of the things about Chorro being popular for such a long time is that a lot of the more popular routes are a bit well used, but the thing to remember is that the holds are way bigger than on equivalent uk routes so its less critical - I've done LBB and I wouldn't say the polish spoils the climbing at all. It's hardly like there are slippery micro smears for your feet, instead there are footholds the size of your entire foot!
Think positive! I'll have you a 7a-b onsight/flash list sorted out by the time you arrive, maybe.
All I need now is for the mist and clag to clear. Karma clearly biting back for posting on here yesterday...
> I'm a tad put off on LBB due to lots of mentions of polish, and I'm not sure stamina-fests are my forte!
One of the things about Chorro being popular for such a long time is that a lot of the more popular routes are a bit well used, but the thing to remember is that the holds are way bigger than on equivalent uk routes so its less critical - I've done LBB and I wouldn't say the polish spoils the climbing at all. It's hardly like there are slippery micro smears for your feet, instead there are footholds the size of your entire foot!
> I think with AJM in full on-sight mode that I might be trying lots of stuff but getting to the top of rather less.
Think positive! I'll have you a 7a-b onsight/flash list sorted out by the time you arrive, maybe.
All I need now is for the mist and clag to clear. Karma clearly biting back for posting on here yesterday...
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheer for the write-up Steve; still looking for an extra pair of hands to finish Campus board construction.
LTG (Sept 2014): Do some adventurous cycle touring and complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
- Spotted a trip to Myanmar over New Year 2014/15. Sounds like a good laugh, but limited off-road riding. Another to Montenegro this summer also looks good.
L-MTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye or Humildes pas casa at Oliana?
- First trip to Oliana booked
MTG (By end Jan 2014):
2x An-cap sessions per week
2x Fingerbaording per week
2x Weight sessions per week
The Highlife – 7C+/8A
Hatch Life High, 8A
Lou Ferrino sans pocket, 8A
Keep working on flexibility – LTG: try and get back to being able to do the splits!
STG (The coming week)
- Survived a month of hard training. Plan calls for a rest this week. 2 Light sessions only. Think I’ll try and sort a sports massage too.
- Finish building campus board
- Maintain weight – weekend biking helping to keep me on track in spite of eating like a horse! 76.0kg and 6.8% BF.
The week just gone:
M - Hard to get motivated for post-work gym session; spent an hour procrastinating until I found the missing iPod and couldn’t delay any further. Glad I went though; another PB on the lat pull down - 4 reps @ 117.5kg & 4 reps @ 85kg Bench Press.
T - Rest – not surprised with the post gym DOMS. Campus board is now at final construction phase.
W - Lamplight Cave session. Soggy to say the least. Was going to be redpoint goes on The Highlife but finish was gopping wet, and still felt tired from Monday. An-cap training session instead. 4x 7B+ (Cave Life short), 4x 7B, 4x 7B – Beasted!
T - Stockport – warmed-up, then OS’d the entire “V5” (chortle, chortle, more like V2/3!) circuit whilst waiting for partner.
6x doubles, mostly ~7a, including Orange 7b. Harder one’s done as a TR lap after leading. Had a go on the Leading Ladder “7b”. Probably 7c outside, and some weird moves on the top arête.
F - Nowt
S - Got out early and avoided worst of the rain at ‘degla. Felt weak again, especially battling a monster headwind on the initial climb. Still lots of “all the gear, no idea” bikers out. Why do they need full body armour and 7” travel to go half the speed I can do in lycra on a steel hardtail?
S - Nowt
Cheer for the write-up Steve; still looking for an extra pair of hands to finish Campus board construction.
LTG (Sept 2014): Do some adventurous cycle touring and complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
- Spotted a trip to Myanmar over New Year 2014/15. Sounds like a good laugh, but limited off-road riding. Another to Montenegro this summer also looks good.
L-MTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye or Humildes pas casa at Oliana?
- First trip to Oliana booked
MTG (By end Jan 2014):
2x An-cap sessions per week
2x Fingerbaording per week
2x Weight sessions per week
The Highlife – 7C+/8A
Hatch Life High, 8A
Lou Ferrino sans pocket, 8A
Keep working on flexibility – LTG: try and get back to being able to do the splits!
STG (The coming week)
- Survived a month of hard training. Plan calls for a rest this week. 2 Light sessions only. Think I’ll try and sort a sports massage too.
- Finish building campus board
- Maintain weight – weekend biking helping to keep me on track in spite of eating like a horse! 76.0kg and 6.8% BF.
The week just gone:
M - Hard to get motivated for post-work gym session; spent an hour procrastinating until I found the missing iPod and couldn’t delay any further. Glad I went though; another PB on the lat pull down - 4 reps @ 117.5kg & 4 reps @ 85kg Bench Press.
T - Rest – not surprised with the post gym DOMS. Campus board is now at final construction phase.
W - Lamplight Cave session. Soggy to say the least. Was going to be redpoint goes on The Highlife but finish was gopping wet, and still felt tired from Monday. An-cap training session instead. 4x 7B+ (Cave Life short), 4x 7B, 4x 7B – Beasted!
T - Stockport – warmed-up, then OS’d the entire “V5” (chortle, chortle, more like V2/3!) circuit whilst waiting for partner.
6x doubles, mostly ~7a, including Orange 7b. Harder one’s done as a TR lap after leading. Had a go on the Leading Ladder “7b”. Probably 7c outside, and some weird moves on the top arête.
F - Nowt
S - Got out early and avoided worst of the rain at ‘degla. Felt weak again, especially battling a monster headwind on the initial climb. Still lots of “all the gear, no idea” bikers out. Why do they need full body armour and 7” travel to go half the speed I can do in lycra on a steel hardtail?
S - Nowt
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks Eagle River!
Did I find an indoor 7b to have a go of? Well yes I did actually, although as I work away during the week I only get to have a crack at it once a week, and now any redpoint attempts have to be fitted around actual climbing training sessions, but more of that later...
M: Chest; bench, dumbell press, flys, dips, tricep rear raise
T: Core; crunches, leg raises, hip thrusts (Bruce Lee's favourite apparently)
W: Shoulder; front dumbell raie, arnold press, bent over dumbell lateral raise, front fly drop sets, front cable raise, cable lateral raise
T: Climb; Aerocap 3 x 10 mins
F:
S:
S: Climb; Ancap 4 routes with 1 min rest (7a+ 6c 6c 6c) (6c 6c 6c 6c) (6c 6c 6c 6c)
The eagle eyed amongst you might spot the latest cool hip buzz words up there, Ancap, Aerocap etc.
Well i've been doing some planning. Quite a lot of planning actually, I've created a periodisation plan a la Tom Randall for the build up to my Font holiday in 12 weeks, I've plucked the terms from the Binney presentation and grouped my training and exercises under those headings. I've dredged my training books for exercises and any advice that hasn't been superseded and I have read more personal training blogs than any sane man should.
Whether or not I have labelled some things exactly right or grouped exercises under the right heading is kind of irrelevant, what is clear is that I have set myself a seriously intense training schedule.
First Aerocap on Thursday, as I was climbing with a partner we did 10 mins on, 10 mins off, I thought this was a good balance between long period on the wall but not too long resting between climbs. It's not exactly a 30 min stint on the wall but how can you do that on routes with a partner who wants to climb too?
First Ancap on Sunday - wow! That's some tough shizzle right there, probably the most intense climbing session I have ever had, if this training doesn't produce some improvements I will be very surprised. My little local wall is very short so i counted 2 routes as a single route(circa 20 moves), I would normally cruise around doing 12-15 of these short routes in a session, yesterday with the training I did over 30 routes!
The best bit about all this? My elbows have been keeping up the whole way, no discomfort so far, even today after yesterdays crazy hard session.
I had to change my brake pads on the car this morning, from experience a bit of spannering after climbing can cause lots of elbow pain,
but they were absolutely fine with that too.
I built a frame to support my fingerboard and chucked it in the car so I can do fingerboard sessions during the week, it's all go!
Thanks Eagle River!
Did I find an indoor 7b to have a go of? Well yes I did actually, although as I work away during the week I only get to have a crack at it once a week, and now any redpoint attempts have to be fitted around actual climbing training sessions, but more of that later...
M: Chest; bench, dumbell press, flys, dips, tricep rear raise
T: Core; crunches, leg raises, hip thrusts (Bruce Lee's favourite apparently)
W: Shoulder; front dumbell raie, arnold press, bent over dumbell lateral raise, front fly drop sets, front cable raise, cable lateral raise
T: Climb; Aerocap 3 x 10 mins
F:
S:
S: Climb; Ancap 4 routes with 1 min rest (7a+ 6c 6c 6c) (6c 6c 6c 6c) (6c 6c 6c 6c)
The eagle eyed amongst you might spot the latest cool hip buzz words up there, Ancap, Aerocap etc.
Well i've been doing some planning. Quite a lot of planning actually, I've created a periodisation plan a la Tom Randall for the build up to my Font holiday in 12 weeks, I've plucked the terms from the Binney presentation and grouped my training and exercises under those headings. I've dredged my training books for exercises and any advice that hasn't been superseded and I have read more personal training blogs than any sane man should.
Whether or not I have labelled some things exactly right or grouped exercises under the right heading is kind of irrelevant, what is clear is that I have set myself a seriously intense training schedule.
First Aerocap on Thursday, as I was climbing with a partner we did 10 mins on, 10 mins off, I thought this was a good balance between long period on the wall but not too long resting between climbs. It's not exactly a 30 min stint on the wall but how can you do that on routes with a partner who wants to climb too?
First Ancap on Sunday - wow! That's some tough shizzle right there, probably the most intense climbing session I have ever had, if this training doesn't produce some improvements I will be very surprised. My little local wall is very short so i counted 2 routes as a single route(circa 20 moves), I would normally cruise around doing 12-15 of these short routes in a session, yesterday with the training I did over 30 routes!
The best bit about all this? My elbows have been keeping up the whole way, no discomfort so far, even today after yesterdays crazy hard session.
I had to change my brake pads on the car this morning, from experience a bit of spannering after climbing can cause lots of elbow pain,
but they were absolutely fine with that too.
I built a frame to support my fingerboard and chucked it in the car so I can do fingerboard sessions during the week, it's all go!
In reply to Dandan:
A lot of good prep there, keep it up! Do you have a good list of the blogs etc. that you've read? The link in the FC header (which incidentally is wrong this week - should be http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502) is really out of date. At least half the articles linked in there give a 404 or just redirect to something different
A lot of good prep there, keep it up! Do you have a good list of the blogs etc. that you've read? The link in the FC header (which incidentally is wrong this week - should be http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502) is really out of date. At least half the articles linked in there give a 404 or just redirect to something different
In reply to Ali:
Keep the faith Ali! The guidebook really hams up the bit about needing cold conditions, but I have seen people do it in June - I have had perfectly decent conditions on it in late spring and early autumn, and even the summer if you get on it at the right time of day.
> getting slightly depressed by weather - I have limited weekends to get down and the last couple of times the weather has been too bad to try. May have to wait til next winter.
Keep the faith Ali! The guidebook really hams up the bit about needing cold conditions, but I have seen people do it in June - I have had perfectly decent conditions on it in late spring and early autumn, and even the summer if you get on it at the right time of day.
In reply to Quiddity:
i'll second that, I ticked hall of mirrors on a sunny May day before it even got into the shade, maybe I got lucky but it didn't feel condition dependant to me.
Hurricane on a millpond on the other hand...
i'll second that, I ticked hall of mirrors on a sunny May day before it even got into the shade, maybe I got lucky but it didn't feel condition dependant to me.
Hurricane on a millpond on the other hand...
In reply to Nick Russell:
I don't have a specific list, it was more a case of link surfing from blog to blog for a couple of evenings, I got through a lot of big names, Mcleod, Moon, Robbie phillips, a few people from over on UKB and some further afield stuff from australia and the US, I didn't keep a list of ones I visited though, sorry!
I don't have a specific list, it was more a case of link surfing from blog to blog for a couple of evenings, I got through a lot of big names, Mcleod, Moon, Robbie phillips, a few people from over on UKB and some further afield stuff from australia and the US, I didn't keep a list of ones I visited though, sorry!
In reply to Dandan:
fair enough, I did roughly the same thing recently. I think I've read through the entirety of McLeod's blog history... It just occurred to me that it might be worth updating the link in the fit club blurb with something more current, and if you had a list already prepared...
fair enough, I did roughly the same thing recently. I think I've read through the entirety of McLeod's blog history... It just occurred to me that it might be worth updating the link in the fit club blurb with something more current, and if you had a list already prepared...
In reply to AJM:
calpe, from the 12th feb for a week. i might stay on longer.. my parther goes back on the 20th i have til the 23rd.
calpe, from the 12th feb for a week. i might stay on longer.. my parther goes back on the 20th i have til the 23rd.
In reply to Ali:
The only good crag I can think of in Peak that does 7c as well as some 6s is Cheedale Upper - Max Wall has a 6a+ and a 6b that are good warm-ups, Embankment has a 6b+ and a 6c (although the 6b+ is very fingery, bad warmup) and Two Tier has couple of (hard) 6b/+s. There are several 7cs on Embankment and Two Tier, and absolutely loads at 7a/b. All these can easily be combined in a day.
I could point you at a 7c that I've either done or have on the to-do list for this year (that I know something about) - would also be a willing partner on some as I'm focusing totally on sport this year - but I'm not sure they'd suit your strengths. What sort of thing are you looking for?
I think the link between alcohol and performance is fairly well established...I've heard it particularly effects recovery, even for several days afterwards according to some people. I've decided to not drink this year except on special occasions - not sure how long this will last though! I have several really nice bottles of beer nithe cellar that I bought at new year and haven't touched...
> Cheers for doing Fit Club! I'd like to do Hall of Mirrors at Portland, but getting slightly depressed by weather - I have limited weekends to get down and the last couple of times the weather has been too bad to try. May have to wait til next winter. Though likely to be more up Yorkshire/Peak way over the summer all being well so if you know of any good 7cs to try then I'm open to recommendations. Ideally at a crag which has 6a-6c options too, which I appreciate may be asking a bit much!
The only good crag I can think of in Peak that does 7c as well as some 6s is Cheedale Upper - Max Wall has a 6a+ and a 6b that are good warm-ups, Embankment has a 6b+ and a 6c (although the 6b+ is very fingery, bad warmup) and Two Tier has couple of (hard) 6b/+s. There are several 7cs on Embankment and Two Tier, and absolutely loads at 7a/b. All these can easily be combined in a day.
I could point you at a 7c that I've either done or have on the to-do list for this year (that I know something about) - would also be a willing partner on some as I'm focusing totally on sport this year - but I'm not sure they'd suit your strengths. What sort of thing are you looking for?
> Think I may look at going dry til Chulilla, or at least not drinking before climbing sessions. Don't feel hungover at all but had about 3/4 bottle wine last night and I'm pretty sure that's why I had a bad session. Though I do have half a bottle of white still in the fridge...
I think the link between alcohol and performance is fairly well established...I've heard it particularly effects recovery, even for several days afterwards according to some people. I've decided to not drink this year except on special occasions - not sure how long this will last though! I have several really nice bottles of beer nithe cellar that I bought at new year and haven't touched...
Post edited at 20:40
In reply to Eagle River:
Hey, thanks for organising the thread this week.
Last week wasn't great; just moved house and so routines took a hit. Went for a circuits run for the first time in a while, but hip is still niggly. Need to get checked out at doctor.
However, on positive side, managed to flash the V2-4 problem I had been working for a while yesterday. Just in time, as the wall is getting a re-route this week - nothing like an incentive to get up it!
Great feeling afterwards. Makes it all worthwhile. Looking forward to having a go at an onsight on a V2-4 problem when the re-route is done.
In general, just trying to hang in there while life settles down. Also trying to keep up with stretching and Pilates to keep back strong and sciatica under control.
Moving house and small kids certainly test the resolve...
Hey, thanks for organising the thread this week.
Last week wasn't great; just moved house and so routines took a hit. Went for a circuits run for the first time in a while, but hip is still niggly. Need to get checked out at doctor.
However, on positive side, managed to flash the V2-4 problem I had been working for a while yesterday. Just in time, as the wall is getting a re-route this week - nothing like an incentive to get up it!
Great feeling afterwards. Makes it all worthwhile. Looking forward to having a go at an onsight on a V2-4 problem when the re-route is done.
In general, just trying to hang in there while life settles down. Also trying to keep up with stretching and Pilates to keep back strong and sciatica under control.
Moving house and small kids certainly test the resolve...
In reply to Si dH:
well obviously if one has a complete skinful it will have an affect. By the same logic, presumably a titchy glass of sherry after dinner won't. But where, in between the two extremes, does it start to make a difference? If I have a nice modestly sized glass of wine one evening, am I doomed to poor performance the next afternoon?
well obviously if one has a complete skinful it will have an affect. By the same logic, presumably a titchy glass of sherry after dinner won't. But where, in between the two extremes, does it start to make a difference? If I have a nice modestly sized glass of wine one evening, am I doomed to poor performance the next afternoon?
In reply to hms:
Haha, I'd forgotten about that comment! It actually refers to an incident at Cheddar the previous summer when I first decided to try to redpoint a route. If you do go over to Arab Steps, Diedre Torpedol (6c) is really enjoyable. It looks sparsely bolted, but none of the clips felt desperate. Last time I was there, there was a group on Rock the Kashbah (I think), they said it was good. All the routes to the right of "cafe" were banned, no indication of when they might open again.
> it was the A&E comment on Arabesque.
Haha, I'd forgotten about that comment! It actually refers to an incident at Cheddar the previous summer when I first decided to try to redpoint a route. If you do go over to Arab Steps, Diedre Torpedol (6c) is really enjoyable. It looks sparsely bolted, but none of the clips felt desperate. Last time I was there, there was a group on Rock the Kashbah (I think), they said it was good. All the routes to the right of "cafe" were banned, no indication of when they might open again.
In reply to pork pie girl:
Ah we will likely be nearby or maybe a bit north (Chulilla) some of that sort of time - should be either Costa Blanca or Chulilla from the 16th or something until the 2nd
Ah we will likely be nearby or maybe a bit north (Chulilla) some of that sort of time - should be either Costa Blanca or Chulilla from the 16th or something until the 2nd
In reply to Eagle River: My back is better. Been ticking over indoors, but basically can't wait for the trip to Siruana starting on Friday!
M:
T: Edge - circuits
W: Edge - circuits then some up problems
T: Run - 4.6 miles @ 9.38 pace
F:
S:
S: Climbing Works - short session but plenty of problems
M:
T: Matrix
STG: Get ready for Siruana - no really ambitious aims, just want to get on quality at around 6b+ to 7a.
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
M:
T: Edge - circuits
W: Edge - circuits then some up problems
T: Run - 4.6 miles @ 9.38 pace
F:
S:
S: Climbing Works - short session but plenty of problems
M:
T: Matrix
STG: Get ready for Siruana - no really ambitious aims, just want to get on quality at around 6b+ to 7a.
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
In reply to pork pie girl:
Ummm a bit lacking... I did a little bit then started feeling weak and pathetic and very unlike falling off.
Ummm a bit lacking... I did a little bit then started feeling weak and pathetic and very unlike falling off.
In reply to Quiddity & Dandan82:
Yes but you're talking to the queen of crimps here - I can't deal with those slopers at the best of times! So those moves I think will be really conditions dependant for me - the rest should be ok :-s Or at least,I rpboably can't blame conditions if I can't do it...
Yes but you're talking to the queen of crimps here - I can't deal with those slopers at the best of times! So those moves I think will be really conditions dependant for me - the rest should be ok :-s Or at least,I rpboably can't blame conditions if I can't do it...
In reply to Si dH & HMS:
I think part of my problem with alcohol is I have to drink a lot to stay hydrated, so if I have a few glasses of wine in the evening I dehydrate a lot overnight as I'm not drinking water to compensate. Sadly I think it really does affect me, though as I'm also fond of the odd drink I'm not sure how far I'm willing to take it!
Si - cool, that'd be good, though what suits you may not suit me so well. Generally something crimpy and vertical / just off vertical (i.e. slightly overhanding) tends to be my forte and if I'm going to try and work one I want to play to my strengths! When does Cheedale start to come into condition?
I think part of my problem with alcohol is I have to drink a lot to stay hydrated, so if I have a few glasses of wine in the evening I dehydrate a lot overnight as I'm not drinking water to compensate. Sadly I think it really does affect me, though as I'm also fond of the odd drink I'm not sure how far I'm willing to take it!
Si - cool, that'd be good, though what suits you may not suit me so well. Generally something crimpy and vertical / just off vertical (i.e. slightly overhanding) tends to be my forte and if I'm going to try and work one I want to play to my strengths! When does Cheedale start to come into condition?
In reply to Ali:
Varies, upper end can be good in March, certainly by April unless it's very wet. The cornice just depends on the year, it can stay wet the whole summer.
Generally there aren't too many slopes but the routes tend to have bigger or steeper moves between bigger holds vs eg Malham. Bit more like Kilnsey. There are some harder routes that are less steep at two tier - celebration is supposed to be good, and about vertical. Also sea is a brown paper bag, which is a classic hard 7b+.
Si
Varies, upper end can be good in March, certainly by April unless it's very wet. The cornice just depends on the year, it can stay wet the whole summer.
Generally there aren't too many slopes but the routes tend to have bigger or steeper moves between bigger holds vs eg Malham. Bit more like Kilnsey. There are some harder routes that are less steep at two tier - celebration is supposed to be good, and about vertical. Also sea is a brown paper bag, which is a classic hard 7b+.
Si
In reply to Ali:
I'm not saying conditions don't matter, so much as saying the conditions are pretty fickle and if you pick the right time of day you can get pretty good conditions all year round. Eg., in the summer, the hour or two immediately after the sun comes off the wall, the rock is generally pretty sticky especially that top band. The best conditions I have ever had at the cuttings were on a blustery showery day in June, immediately after rain.
I'm not saying conditions don't matter, so much as saying the conditions are pretty fickle and if you pick the right time of day you can get pretty good conditions all year round. Eg., in the summer, the hour or two immediately after the sun comes off the wall, the rock is generally pretty sticky especially that top band. The best conditions I have ever had at the cuttings were on a blustery showery day in June, immediately after rain.
In reply to Eagle River:
Okay. I'm going to be disciplined this year!
Short term goals (Feb)
1. Develop training routine that includes good mix of bouldering and lead, endurance, fun and technical.
2. Get into habit of warming-up, cooling down, stretching and eating recovery snack.
3. Design series of exercises to work into sessions to remedy technical/endurance flaws medium-term.
4. Get onto real rock at least twice this month
Medium term goals (March/April)
1. Use exercises to improve technique/endurance
2. Get on rock as much as possible
3. Do two running races
4. Establish weekly cardio session.
5. Learn to embrace failure.
Long term goals (2014)
Trad: Rack up E1 onsights. Lead E2. Second harder routes whenever there is opportunity.
Sport: Solid at 6b/6c outdoors, pushing 7a indoors ready for Yangshou trip
Bouldering: Solid at V2/V3 outdoors. Working V4/V5 indoors.
Running: Improve on Kielder Marathon time in October
M - Plank challenge 1.15. Rest
T - Plank challenge 1.30. Rest
W - Plank challenge 1.30. Leading Brookes (12 routes 5-6a) Felt knackered before starting.
T - Plank challenge 1.30. Rest
F - Plank challenge 1.30. Rest
S - Plank challenge 1.45. Bouldering Beacon aggregate (VB x 8 V0 x 2 V1 x 7 V2 x 3 V3 x 2)
S - Plank challenge 2mins. Bouldering Beacon (Warm up x 9 up to v1 1 circuit v2 v3 circuit (half, then 3/4 completed) 2x v3 worked v4 but not got last move)
Okay. I'm going to be disciplined this year!
Short term goals (Feb)
1. Develop training routine that includes good mix of bouldering and lead, endurance, fun and technical.
2. Get into habit of warming-up, cooling down, stretching and eating recovery snack.
3. Design series of exercises to work into sessions to remedy technical/endurance flaws medium-term.
4. Get onto real rock at least twice this month
Medium term goals (March/April)
1. Use exercises to improve technique/endurance
2. Get on rock as much as possible
3. Do two running races
4. Establish weekly cardio session.
5. Learn to embrace failure.
Long term goals (2014)
Trad: Rack up E1 onsights. Lead E2. Second harder routes whenever there is opportunity.
Sport: Solid at 6b/6c outdoors, pushing 7a indoors ready for Yangshou trip
Bouldering: Solid at V2/V3 outdoors. Working V4/V5 indoors.
Running: Improve on Kielder Marathon time in October
M - Plank challenge 1.15. Rest
T - Plank challenge 1.30. Rest
W - Plank challenge 1.30. Leading Brookes (12 routes 5-6a) Felt knackered before starting.
T - Plank challenge 1.30. Rest
F - Plank challenge 1.30. Rest
S - Plank challenge 1.45. Bouldering Beacon aggregate (VB x 8 V0 x 2 V1 x 7 V2 x 3 V3 x 2)
S - Plank challenge 2mins. Bouldering Beacon (Warm up x 9 up to v1 1 circuit v2 v3 circuit (half, then 3/4 completed) 2x v3 worked v4 but not got last move)
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers Steve, yeah more this week but started last week very ill, caught some sickness bug off the little one!
Monday: ill
Tuesday: ill
Wednesday: ill
Thursday: Felt better later in the day so headed to Nesscliffe. Didn't expect much after illness but found myself falling off the last move of Northumberland Wonderland (7A+) about 15 times... Last time I was on it I could barely do the first move, feels easy now... No idea what's changed! Keen to get back for it soon.
Friday: Parisella's Cave - Only managed a couple of hours, felt very tired. Just worked the moves on Shothole Start and made no progress on the previous session.
Saturday: Yoga and Stretching for 45 minutes
Sunday: 45 minutes Aerocap
> Luke Owens – more bouldering this week?
Cheers Steve, yeah more this week but started last week very ill, caught some sickness bug off the little one!
Monday: ill
Tuesday: ill
Wednesday: ill
Thursday: Felt better later in the day so headed to Nesscliffe. Didn't expect much after illness but found myself falling off the last move of Northumberland Wonderland (7A+) about 15 times... Last time I was on it I could barely do the first move, feels easy now... No idea what's changed! Keen to get back for it soon.
Friday: Parisella's Cave - Only managed a couple of hours, felt very tired. Just worked the moves on Shothole Start and made no progress on the previous session.
Saturday: Yoga and Stretching for 45 minutes
Sunday: 45 minutes Aerocap
In reply to Ali:
you don't have to feel strong to fall off.. infact if you're having a session whe n ye not feeling very strong doing some fall off practise is a good plan as you're unlikely to be able to lead harder routes cleanly anyway?
come on.. falling practise.. team psyche
you don't have to feel strong to fall off.. infact if you're having a session whe n ye not feeling very strong doing some fall off practise is a good plan as you're unlikely to be able to lead harder routes cleanly anyway?
come on.. falling practise.. team psyche
In reply to pork pie girl:
I have a new policy at the wall of not clipping the chains on anything. Just grab the top hold, maybe swing around a bit on one arm, then drop off. My belayer keeps having to explain to confused onlookers, "he looked solid on that, why did he fall off the last move?"
> come on.. falling practise.. team psyche
I have a new policy at the wall of not clipping the chains on anything. Just grab the top hold, maybe swing around a bit on one arm, then drop off. My belayer keeps having to explain to confused onlookers, "he looked solid on that, why did he fall off the last move?"
In reply to pork pie girl:
I do TAKE practice. It'such easier....
I do need to do some though. I reckon that's why I was so static last week.
I do TAKE practice. It'such easier....
I do need to do some though. I reckon that's why I was so static last week.
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers dude! I'm a bit late this week, oops.
One bouldering session this week but feeling like my climbing mojo is back. Upping it for next week and phasing out the mountain biking.
Weight: 138 lbs
STG:
Drunk Enough 6C+ (Roaches)
Sleeping With The Flowers 7A (Roaches)
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Get out with a rope
MTG (by Dec 2014):
Consolodate winter experience
Get out to the Alps (trip booked for June!)
500 pitches, lead or second (total: 0)
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet (on a back burner as the Churnet has now entered green mode for the most part)
VLTG (dreams):
Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Something on the Grand Jurasses...
Wheel of Life
This Week:
M: 1hr mountain bike
T: Bouldering, session on Drunk Enough. Felt good on this today, one last move to do but it's a big last move!
W: Rest
T: 45mins mountain bike
F: 1hr 40mins mountain bike (Dog & Monkey at Cannock Chase)
S: 1hr mountain bike plus 30mins walk
S: 2hr 30mins mountain bike
Cheers dude! I'm a bit late this week, oops.
One bouldering session this week but feeling like my climbing mojo is back. Upping it for next week and phasing out the mountain biking.
Weight: 138 lbs
STG:
Drunk Enough 6C+ (Roaches)
Sleeping With The Flowers 7A (Roaches)
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Get out with a rope
MTG (by Dec 2014):
Consolodate winter experience
Get out to the Alps (trip booked for June!)
500 pitches, lead or second (total: 0)
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet (on a back burner as the Churnet has now entered green mode for the most part)
VLTG (dreams):
Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Something on the Grand Jurasses...
Wheel of Life
This Week:
M: 1hr mountain bike
T: Bouldering, session on Drunk Enough. Felt good on this today, one last move to do but it's a big last move!
W: Rest
T: 45mins mountain bike
F: 1hr 40mins mountain bike (Dog & Monkey at Cannock Chase)
S: 1hr mountain bike plus 30mins walk
S: 2hr 30mins mountain bike
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