Am just starting out on a training programme, and need to get a lot of routes in, building stamina mainly. Not always having people to climb with, has anyone got experience of using auto belays to train on, seems like it might work, doing multiple ascents etc, although need to be climbing in the 7s, and unsure if auto belays at walls are at those grades
from what i remember, there are some good long circuits at stockport that would be ideal for building stamina on. but you are right, there's no real substitute for doing steep routes but boulder traverse/circuits are as near as damn it.
Long circuits on the boulder wall are probably the ticket. The wall I climb at in Loughborough has several of about 30-40 moves. I link multiple laps of circuits to train stamina. 4 laps gives me nearly 10 mins of climbing and 10 mins on 10 mins off works really well for stamina. There is a similar wall at the Climbing Works.
I haven't used autobelays very much but I don't think you'll find very steep routes on them.