UKC

I'm new to climbing and wondering what qualifies as a 3 star route?

In reply to KariLou:

Sound clean rock with fairly apparent holds, some of which are 'rewarding'. Consistent grade level throughout the length. Natural lines with interesting features. Good protection (trad or bolts well placed). Lack of vegetation. Good scenery.

In reply to LeeWood:

A route that, when you reach the top, you say f*ck yeah, that was amazing. Grade doesn't necessarily matter, the pleasure and/or challenge of climbing it does.

In reply to LeeWood: I don't necessarily think it has to be consistent, but I do find that I much prefer a route that gives amenable climbing to a good position, then gets hard, is much more rewarding than a route where it's nails to get off the ground, but then it's a bit of a path.

In reply to KariLou:

One that has moo-oo-oo-oo-oo-oo-oo-oo-ooves like Jagger.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

agreed; hard moves off ground with high 1st clip - detestable

In reply to KariLou:


A guidebook editor...

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:


Yeah, unless you're soloing.

In reply to KariLou:


Discussion in progress here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=576259&v=1#x7648715

In reply to LeeWood:

Plenty of 3 star routes about with poor/minimal protection.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:


Although I like routes that have a hard move near the start and are then slightly easier (up to about one tech grade, say) but relatively consistent for the rest of the route. I think it tricks my mind into believing that it didn't get easier and I'm just climbing really well.

In reply to KariLou:

For me it's how the rock makes you move. Good quality rock and a good line goes without saying. Needs sustained interest, but not necessarily the same difficulty all the way - a bit of length helps, something with a beginning, a middle and an end.

In reply to Ramblin dave:

no, a crux at the end is more suspenseful

In reply to Tom Valentine:

And plenty with dirty rock and unobvious holds!

In reply to KariLou: It seems to be down to the personal opinions of guide book writers and very subjective. Some of the most horrible unpleasant climbs I've done were three star routes.

In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:

Go on; what were they?

In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:

Some of the most horrible unpleasant climbs I've done were three star routes.

That would be a great thread.

In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:

Yes, we use a random-star-generator rather than climb in an area for many years, check previous guidebooks, discuss with local activists and consult all the various on-line databases,


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Why so defensive?

Ideally its a selection from a combination of qualities including great climbing, amazing line, wonderful positions, significance in history, unlikeliness, commitment to glory, preferably sustained and varied on wonderful holds on great rock. Its got to be a very special route worth travelling for. In reality ego gets in the way at times so the odd mediocre route gets 3 stars until zapped by a subsequent editor. You don't need all of the factors, so if some qualities are real special it is possible to have dubious rock or even veg on a 3 star rock. What is not possible IMHO is just great trad climbing with nothing else which is where so much UKC voting goes wrong. Obviously bolted climbs lose a lot of the possible qualities through being sanitized so often they get more generous ratings with more focus on the climbing.

In reply to Bulls Crack:

Mississippi Buttress Direct at Stanage Popular is one that immediately springs to mind.

In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:

Blimey Gerry, really? It's a tough lead up past the mid-section but an awesome route to do on second. I found it physically demanding but a great deal more exciting and varied than most VSs.

In reply to BnB:

He's being a troll. Its fair enough to argue gritstone is overrated and such a route is so worn it no longer deserves 3 starts but 'horrible and unpleasant', come on. its not tough either its a pretty standard VS for Stanage and would be at the easier end of the range for some grit crags.

In reply to Offwidth:

No I'm not being a troll. Read my UKC logbook notes on the route dated October 2011 if you want proof. Get your facts right before making false accusations against people you don't even know. The previous poster BnB knows me personally and knows I'm not that kind of person.

Mississippi Buttress Direct is just not my cup of tea. I dislike steep, thuggy, brutal jamming climbs such as this and didn't enjoy the route at all. I much prefer delicate gritstone climbing such as routes on the Dental Slab at Rylstone or End and Centre slabs at Crookrise.

In reply to Offwidth:

Yes, I do know Gerry, I've climbed with him a few times, and MBD really isn't his cup of tea. It's not really mine either since I'm not strong enough yet to overcome some of the challenges (on lead at least), but I can see its merits. Different strokes for different folks, eh?

In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:
My apologies in that case; it certainly looked like you were when you said "some of the most horrible unpleasant climbs I've done were 3 star routes". It seemed like you were having a go at the star rating of routes like MBD, rather than talking about your own strengths and weaknesses. It's inevitable star ratings will never relate directly to climbs we individually enjoy most. Anyway, Crookrise and Rylstone slabs are special and along with any other sub extreme stuff is very much in my mind at present, in preparation for the new YMC guide, so keep commenting when you do these climbs.

In reply to KariLou:

1 * you can remember the moves well enough to describe them in the pub a week or a month later
2 * as for 1* plus the line is really good
3* as for 2* plus looked at from the base you think "bloody hell I got up that!" and you're grinning like the Cheshire Cat for the rest of the week.

In reply to 999thAndy: I don't think I've ever done a 3 star route then.

In reply to Offwidth: Regarding the new YMC guide, please let it be soon??? Give us a clue at least?

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Maybe I'm easily pleased ...

In reply to KariLou:

Is this on a 3 or a 5 star system?

In reply to Offwidth:

That sums up all the attributes i would include pretty conclusively,although i would like to add that wonderful buzz you get after tackling a formidable route with history,interesting or unique dangers and one that requires as many different climbing techniques as possible.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Robin has said on several occasions the aim is roughly before xmas 2014 but speaking from experience targets are soft in the world of volunteer climbing guidebooks and with modern dtp based production much better a little late than rushed, as the editing is more back-weighted.