In reply to Nick Harvey:
> - Swap into mitts at belays. Immediately. Regardless of how warm you think your hands are.
Belay jacket has mitts in one inside pocket and biscuits in another.
> - Ditto for putting on a belay jacket, even if you arrive breathing out your arse.
> - Have at least two pairs of climbing gloves, not inc for belays and walk-ins. Keep one pair in chest pockets and swap when initial pair get damp.
Agree, gloves for walk in, climbing and belaying. Otherwise they get sweaty then cold.
> - Use the oven. Put the mitts (while climbing) and the gloves (while belaying) tucked right into each armpit. When you put on, they'll be toastie.
Or change to new climbing gloves each pitch, there is still a warm up period, I only use the pits for climbing gloves when belaying.
> - Windmill, penguin dance and hand flick like a loon.
I've just started using the chicken dance, it works really well...
> My theory is that when your hands are above your head, squeezing, holding metal, no glove will keep them warm. It's not the warm getting out that's really the problem, but that no warm (blood) is getting in.
This is what I do after suffering in the past. I also suggest lots of snack food too (chocolate biscuits, cookies, ginger snaps or custard creams.) and making sure you are properly hydrated...
Post edited at 17:13