In reply to Jon Stewart:
My thoughts about FBD are that it could be quite a dangerous route for the HVS leader. I attempted a lead last year, got to the lip and got my heel on without any problems - put a cam in and wasn't happy with it, so spent energy fiddling with it. Went to clip it and found that I'd inadvertently got the rope behind my leg whilst throwing my heel onto the lip. Suddenly realised that I no longer had the strength to hang on whilst pulling the rope through, or in any case didn't want to risk anything other than a both feet first fall onto the slab. Went to downclimb and couldn't (I'm 6' 1") and so was dangling from the lip without the cam clipped and no strength left to clip it. I got my belayer to take in tight (cam under the roof) and managed to swing in a bit and aim the fall so that the rope would come tight on me as I landed. The fall was ok but it hurt my feet and knees so it's not a fall I'd like to take onto any other part of my body.
Anyhow, my point being that it's easy to get caught out. It's a very committing lead that requires strength and confidence in a potentially dangerous situation. Yes, all climbs require this to some extent but FBD demands more of it than most HVSs. Right now I think it's E1.
Oh, and back to the OP:
For 2014 I plan to train hard and get on some of the classic Peak E1 to E3s that I've been looking at for ages and sh*tting myself. I've realised that I need to stop saving routes until I'm stronger and just get stronger, otherwise these routes will never get done. A quick list of examples,
Insanity, Curbar
Five Finger Exercise, Cratcliffe
Sentinel Crack, Chatsworth,
Stormbringer, Gardoms (and Moyer's Buttress too)
Quietus, High Neb
and, of course - Flying Buttress Direct.