UKC

I'm working on an Irish select guide and I'm looking for the visitor's opinions on Dalkey Quarry and what place it should have in an Irish select guide.

As it's my local climbing area it's hard for me to be objective about it but I feel that while it definitely isn't one of the best climbing areas in Ireland(a) it's very convenient (accessible by public transport, 40 mins from the centre of Dublin, en route to from the ferry airport etc) and (b) the best routes there are quite good.

For some background here is a blog post I wrote about what I consider the critical criteria for choosing routes http://www.threerockbooks.com/index.php/choosing-routes-for-the-select-guid... and here is the first draft of the route selection for the quarry http://www.threerockbooks.com/index.php/choosing-routes-for-the-select-guid... since I posted that there was a pretty strong consensus on the Irish Climbers Facebook group that the Quarry should receive little more than passing mention and maybe detail a dozen routes.

So if you have climbed in Dalkey while on a visit to Ireland I would love to hear what you think?

In reply to Dave Flanagan:

IMO Dalkey warrants more than a passing mention: as you say, the best routes there are quite good. For me, it has saved the day on more than one trip to Ireland, being dry when Glendalough was wet.

In reply to Dave Flanagan:

Some worthwhile routes. The likes of Paradise Lost, Jameson 10 and the rest are of good quality and worth seeking out for lower grade climbers. Great views across the bay, on a good day. The prospect of a few jars of the good stuff in The Club, and the last DART back to the city, to look forward to afterwards.

In reply to Dave Flanagan:

Haven't been there but in general obvious cracks should go in selected guides, even if only in passing, if the crag is being mentioned at all; it's annoying to see obvious lines not described.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Just cracks John?

In reply to Dave Flanagan:

I used to live in dublin and climbed lots at Dalkey, routes like The Ghost and the E1 and E2 (Prisoner cell block and After midnight?) to the left of Tower Ridge Direct are also well worth a mention.

In reply to Dave Flanagan:

Well, cracks are particularly obvious lines, but yes, fair enough - if you go with the crag at all then I think you need to include any particularly obvious line. It's utilitarian too - obvious lines can be shortly described so you can sneak them in outside the main text.

jcm

In reply to Dave Flanagan:

A few years back I had a great week in Dalkey Quarry. We chose to visit from the Uk because we wanted a hassle free week, to drink lots of Guinness, a visit to Dublin, wet weather cultural options and didn't want to worry about car hire etc. Is it the best climbing in Ireland? clearly not, but it serves a purpose and for all the reasons you mentioned above I think it is an attractive option. We concentrated on the starred routes, had a lot of fun and never felt any pressure. Exactly what we wanted from a holiday.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Yeah John I'm going to experiment with a way of indicating minor routes with out cluttering up the topos too much. Arrow, name, grade should be enough.

In reply to Dave Flanagan:

I loved Dalkey when i lived in Killiney, nice 20 min walk to the large crag and of course a few different areas to get out of the wind or into or even out of the sun.

You should definitely include delectissima.

I assume you also are creatung entries for bray head and barnbawn.

In reply to wheelo:

I wasn't planning to. I would consider them pretty minor areas, I've never climbed at Bray Head but it doesn't look great and isn't very popular. I've climbed at Barnbawn and it's a nice little crag but I don't think it would be of interest to visiting climbers, do you?

In reply to Dave Flanagan:

Ẁe went there once and thought the routes we did were pretty good. I'd certainly visit again in a similar situation and definitely think it merits inclusion in a selective guide; it's quite unusual to have pretty good climbing so easily accessed from the centre of a European capital, especially trad.

In reply to Dave Flanagan:

I'm pretty certain Bray Head is not worth bothering about

In reply to Dave Flanagan:

Most of the people who slag it off to me, seem to be locals.

Speaking as an occasional visitor from the UK, its well known about and its an obvious place to go on a sneaky day off from a work trip or family hol. It was always the one guide that was always reliably attainable (from the UK) for quick hit, family venue, home for tea type action.

In that respect then, its similar to Peak crags, very easy access, a guide, good pubs, and good routes (that are debatably overrated, but not by me). If Dalkey or Froggatt were on Lewis, few would care or visit.


Yeah, because in terms of significance, from my perspective, route quality isn't the only variable.

In reply to Dave Flanagan:

Dalkey is a must in a selective guide. Its away from the hills and is often dry when Glengalough is clagged in. Its near the point of access to the country for most visitors. It has some very good single pitch routes across the grades.

In reply to Dave Flanagan:

I really liked it, good climbing, nice views and easily accessible from the city.

In reply to drysori:

Thanks everyone, it seems people liked the Quarry and thought it was a useful, enjoyable place to climb. Did anyone thing it was a waste of time?

In reply to Dave Flanagan:

No, not a waste of time at all. It is what it is and no visiting climber would be under any illusions. While I agree that there are far, far better crags elsewhere, it's still well worth a visit IMHO and deserves more than just a passing mention in the new guide. Admittedly I've only done a small number of the best routes there, but wasn't disappointed with any of them.

As other posters have said, it provided salvation when Glendalough was wet.