UKC

Hi all. Looking at going to the roaches tomorrow and was wondering what the conditions will be like there tomorrow after today's rain. Or should I stay more local ( wye valley) thanks in advance. Luke.

In reply to luke glaister:

There'll be plenty dry and plenty damp I would think. Since it's going to be windy, the dry routes might also be a bit unpleasant.

In reply to luke glaister:

FWIW, myself (currently West Midlands) and my mate (East Midlands) are planning on trying the Roaches tomorrow - no local knowledge but after much looking at weather forecasts and discussion we decided it was the closest place to both of us with a fighting chance of being dry enough tomorrow!

I imagine most Wye Valley crags would be sopping after all this rain?

In reply to luke glaister:

Leek forecast is OK but you may need more shelter from the cold 15 mph SW wind with max temps expected to be 6 at lower levels In town. I'd be bouldering in those predicted conditions at the roaches. On some of the sheltered quick drying peak crags conditions could be much nicer.

In reply to luke glaister:

Raining on and off in Leek today and raining now. Upper Tier may have some dry patches but they will be sought after. Lower Tier is green.

In reply to Offwidth:


Which do you reckon then? I suspect they'll all add another hour of driving on for me though...

In reply to luke glaister:

The Skyline and Ramshaw tend to dry the quickest out of any of the crags around the roaches Although i expect Ramshaw to be really wet under foot!

In reply to TobyA:

roaches will be in the main wet but if its bad there is always bouldering to be had at Churnet valley nearby (30mins) search for ramblers retreat cafe on red road & park there

In reply to stevemarkperry:

I would imagine that the lower tier will be as slimy as frogspawn

In reply to TobyA:

Hope you have a good day. For future reference places like Cratcliffe, Shining Cliff and Matlock Bank. Scarp crags like The roaches do dry in winter with sun and wind so those implying mainly dampness are wrong... cracks and clefts will hold damp and you need to avoid seeps but cold is the real limiting issue. For those interested in hard routes conditions could be near perfect in places today... feel the friction.

In reply to luke glaister:

I had a great day today. We went straight to ramshaw where we got 3 routes done. The crank being the most fun... then over to the roaches for 2 more. Chalkstorm with side runner being the high light of the day. On the subject of the side runner. Are u meant to Place it on lead. Or can u pre place it and clip it, then lower off it and re climb the route proper? Cause it felt like a top rope to half hight then a solo to the top. Ether way it's a class route. Thanks for all the info.
Luke.

In reply to luke glaister:

Good work on the staffs grit sendage. With Chalkstorm, basically it will feel safer/ easier the higher the side runner is, if you stand with feet in the break and place it on lead it's about E25c, and higher and it's E1 ish. All good fun though. Sounds like Elegy and Commander Energy might be next on the cards for you?? Good stuff!

In reply to Gus:

Haha. There Two routes that have caught my eye. Cant wait till the place is in really good nick. I'm loving the grit stone at the moment. Its inspiring to climb on.
Luke

In reply to Offwidth:

It was 'dry enough'. Did Calcutta Crack first which felt a bit brutal as a warm up - crack all dry but the top out all slimey, which made for some spicey moments. Then went over to Skyline which was OK; Tony led Safety Net, I led Thrug and Slab & Arete. Very windy all day, quite impressively gale force on the top of Slab and Arete but oddly quite nice down at the bottom. Didn't like the climb much, Thrug much more my cup of tea!

Cold fingers when pulling on damp holds but otherwise didn't feel too warm. Then again it was -20 when I last did a climb just over a week ago before coming over to the UK!

In reply to luke glaister:

We got a fair bit of bouldering done, good conditions on the upper tier on the rockfaces that had sunlight from early on

In reply to TobyA:

Love your kill or cure warm-up ideas! Top belays are always the coldist bit of such days.

Good conditions bouldering at Woodhouse Scar not too warm in the sun or too windy.

In reply to luke glaister:

If you can get warmed up, it's in about as good nick as it gets. I don't like it much colder than yesterday, just about warm up-able!

In reply to andi turner: yeh I agree. I was warm enough and the clean routes were great. i think another dry day or two would be spot on. It was the damp and green that put me off. Please tell me that goes. Cause I can deal with the cold bit.
Luke

In reply to Offwidth:


Yes, Tony seconding it noted that despite the fact that he is climbing into the 7s on sports routes regularly now, the severes like that haven't got any easier.

In reply to TobyA:

Its given severe... but it might get VS if it was on Stanage and then add wet and cold.