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Welcome Fit Clubbers!
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week’s (358) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=576656&v=1
Who's doing the posts for the next few weeks:
09/2 - Eagle River
16/2 - Eagle River
23/2 - mbh
02/3 – mbh
09/3 - ?
16/3 - ?
23/3 - ?
30/3 - ?
Summary of the last week:
Eagle River - weak, he says, but 1-4-5s doesn't shock everyone.
Ali - Still running to work and in the mud. A sunny escape to Chulilla beckons. . Going dry sounds serious
maria85 - hopefully you are delurgified by now.
AJM - is offering bespoke Eurobolt holiday welcomes to FitClub climbers. He'll even do your shopping for you, between impressive strings of ticks. You seem to be doing well, as expected.
Tyler - bit of a to-do at the MCC. Shame about the six pack.
mbh - more running. Is that all you do? (er...yes)
Nick Russell - Good evidence of progress from the indoor routes numbers, and now you are falling off on purpose. Has that helped your confidence, do you think?
AndrewW - Deja vu and a cryptic end to your week - but lots of effort, by the sound of it.
hms - lots of cycling, lots of climbing (good going on the new UCR circuits) , and another would-be Fitclub escape to sunny climes. Get AJM to sort your place out before you get there. Those adventure routes Nick describes sound exciting. Tempting?
mrchewy - fantastic efforts. Brilliant V4 success!
Jamming Dodger - downplays her cycling, but 140 miles of commuting on a bike in one week is serious work. Good effort! Book AJM TickMachine Hols now for El Chorro.
IainRUK -90iah miles, some of it really fast, some of it in -12C and snow. Impressive!
mattrm - lots of yoga, and dish tucks (whatever they are). Progress, anyway. And Haggis.
Joughton - Joins Tyler in mutual indignance re the MCC. Great result there for you, btw, and sounds like you are making good training progress. News from Exeter?
Alun - busy week, and losing weight rapidly. So close on the 7a - let's hope it goes soon.
thebigfriendlymoose - offers Eagle River campus encouragement.
grubes - great to see you trying out your bike. What is the bike ride you are aiming for?
biscuit - Bad luck with the lurgy. El Chorro not so far away now. Do eat your veg.
Nomics4sale - Queen of Hill Running. Not one day of rest, in a week that started with hill reps. What an effort! Good luck with the next 7b.
pork pie girl - Impressive dedication to hard work, as ever. Hope you are getting more sleep and that your mum is OK. Oh, and you are off to Spain too.
Humperdink - Got a medal! Great report and fantastic running. That video makes the XC look brutal.
Exile - Good work if you get both quality and quantity in one week.
Ally Smith - Does everyone think the V5 circuit (that you OSd) is really V2/3, or is that just you? How is the campus board coming on?
Dandan82 - you don't impress us with your ancap, aerocap blitherings, you know.....Well, actually, you do. 30 routes in one go should get you somewhere, one would think.
Si Dh - hello stranger! Welcome musings, if no actual training to report.
Si Cox - Hang on in there. The kids will get bigger and test your resolve even more. What does Pilates offer that Yoga doesn't, or vice versa?
Sankey - couldn't wait for the rest of you and has actually gone to Spain already.
Just Tintin - Look, I am going to have to ask if you are going to do it every day - what is a Plank Challenge?
Luke Owens - Despite illness, almost gets Northumberland Wonderland (15 times). Massive improvement on last time.
stevemarkperry - has re-found his climbing mojo.
As ever, good to see such effort in the name of improvement. Lots of you off to Spain where AJM no doubt will act as courier to all, and who can blame you, given the weather here. Some serious study on training methods, led by Nick and Dandan - I have not changed the links in the FC header http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502) but clearly they do need some work. Well done Humperdink on your medal.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week’s (358) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=576656&v=1
Who's doing the posts for the next few weeks:
09/2 - Eagle River
16/2 - Eagle River
23/2 - mbh
02/3 – mbh
09/3 - ?
16/3 - ?
23/3 - ?
30/3 - ?
Summary of the last week:
Eagle River - weak, he says, but 1-4-5s doesn't shock everyone.
Ali - Still running to work and in the mud. A sunny escape to Chulilla beckons. . Going dry sounds serious
maria85 - hopefully you are delurgified by now.
AJM - is offering bespoke Eurobolt holiday welcomes to FitClub climbers. He'll even do your shopping for you, between impressive strings of ticks. You seem to be doing well, as expected.
Tyler - bit of a to-do at the MCC. Shame about the six pack.
mbh - more running. Is that all you do? (er...yes)
Nick Russell - Good evidence of progress from the indoor routes numbers, and now you are falling off on purpose. Has that helped your confidence, do you think?
AndrewW - Deja vu and a cryptic end to your week - but lots of effort, by the sound of it.
hms - lots of cycling, lots of climbing (good going on the new UCR circuits) , and another would-be Fitclub escape to sunny climes. Get AJM to sort your place out before you get there. Those adventure routes Nick describes sound exciting. Tempting?
mrchewy - fantastic efforts. Brilliant V4 success!
Jamming Dodger - downplays her cycling, but 140 miles of commuting on a bike in one week is serious work. Good effort! Book AJM TickMachine Hols now for El Chorro.
IainRUK -90iah miles, some of it really fast, some of it in -12C and snow. Impressive!
mattrm - lots of yoga, and dish tucks (whatever they are). Progress, anyway. And Haggis.
Joughton - Joins Tyler in mutual indignance re the MCC. Great result there for you, btw, and sounds like you are making good training progress. News from Exeter?
Alun - busy week, and losing weight rapidly. So close on the 7a - let's hope it goes soon.
thebigfriendlymoose - offers Eagle River campus encouragement.
grubes - great to see you trying out your bike. What is the bike ride you are aiming for?
biscuit - Bad luck with the lurgy. El Chorro not so far away now. Do eat your veg.
Nomics4sale - Queen of Hill Running. Not one day of rest, in a week that started with hill reps. What an effort! Good luck with the next 7b.
pork pie girl - Impressive dedication to hard work, as ever. Hope you are getting more sleep and that your mum is OK. Oh, and you are off to Spain too.
Humperdink - Got a medal! Great report and fantastic running. That video makes the XC look brutal.
Exile - Good work if you get both quality and quantity in one week.
Ally Smith - Does everyone think the V5 circuit (that you OSd) is really V2/3, or is that just you? How is the campus board coming on?
Dandan82 - you don't impress us with your ancap, aerocap blitherings, you know.....Well, actually, you do. 30 routes in one go should get you somewhere, one would think.
Si Dh - hello stranger! Welcome musings, if no actual training to report.
Si Cox - Hang on in there. The kids will get bigger and test your resolve even more. What does Pilates offer that Yoga doesn't, or vice versa?
Sankey - couldn't wait for the rest of you and has actually gone to Spain already.
Just Tintin - Look, I am going to have to ask if you are going to do it every day - what is a Plank Challenge?
Luke Owens - Despite illness, almost gets Northumberland Wonderland (15 times). Massive improvement on last time.
stevemarkperry - has re-found his climbing mojo.
As ever, good to see such effort in the name of improvement. Lots of you off to Spain where AJM no doubt will act as courier to all, and who can blame you, given the weather here. Some serious study on training methods, led by Nick and Dandan - I have not changed the links in the FC header http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502) but clearly they do need some work. Well done Humperdink on your medal.
In reply to mbh: Cheers mbh, aren't we up early?
Good week of training for me, marred slightly by a below par performance at RocFest, but who cares when I got my first offer for medicine! A*AA from Exeter, so I'm going to have to put some work in.
Mon - really good routes session at MCC. New set up, on sighted all nine routes in the session: 6a,6a+,6b+,6c,7a,7c,7b,7a+,7b+. The 7c and 7b+ were admittedly quite soft, but they were both pretty sustained so I'm pleased some fitness is slowly coming back!
Tue - rest
Wed - Bouldering at Rockover. Meant to go for circuits but almost everything had been stripped for the comp apart from a new (soft) bransby set. Flashed all V5s, three V6s, and one V7. Also managed the other V6s, another V7, and a V8+ after some work! It's definitely not V8+ but it was still pretty hard, someone said easy V8 which is still good progress for me.
Thurs - rest
Fri - rest
Sat - Rocfest at Rockover. Dissapointing really, I think as I'd been climbing well I got my expectations up, and when I didn't meet them I got frustrated, so I started messing up. Things like missing out holds, and notbeing patient and getting good beta meant I dropped silly points. Bit annoyed with myself, but I was mostly just there for the craic anyway.
Sun - hungover at a friends house - the outlook for training doesn't look great today!
Really pleased about having my first offer, but I'm hoping I might get another just asking for AAA! Also pleased with progress on routes, finally! El Chorro is in two weeks so the plan is to hit the enduro training hard this week, then take a nice long break to recover properly before we go.
Cheers, Jake
Good week of training for me, marred slightly by a below par performance at RocFest, but who cares when I got my first offer for medicine! A*AA from Exeter, so I'm going to have to put some work in.
Mon - really good routes session at MCC. New set up, on sighted all nine routes in the session: 6a,6a+,6b+,6c,7a,7c,7b,7a+,7b+. The 7c and 7b+ were admittedly quite soft, but they were both pretty sustained so I'm pleased some fitness is slowly coming back!
Tue - rest
Wed - Bouldering at Rockover. Meant to go for circuits but almost everything had been stripped for the comp apart from a new (soft) bransby set. Flashed all V5s, three V6s, and one V7. Also managed the other V6s, another V7, and a V8+ after some work! It's definitely not V8+ but it was still pretty hard, someone said easy V8 which is still good progress for me.
Thurs - rest
Fri - rest
Sat - Rocfest at Rockover. Dissapointing really, I think as I'd been climbing well I got my expectations up, and when I didn't meet them I got frustrated, so I started messing up. Things like missing out holds, and notbeing patient and getting good beta meant I dropped silly points. Bit annoyed with myself, but I was mostly just there for the craic anyway.
Sun - hungover at a friends house - the outlook for training doesn't look great today!
Really pleased about having my first offer, but I'm hoping I might get another just asking for AAA! Also pleased with progress on routes, finally! El Chorro is in two weeks so the plan is to hit the enduro training hard this week, then take a nice long break to recover properly before we go.
Cheers, Jake
In reply to mbh:
I'm still lurking a bit...
I'm doing quite a lot of training at the moment actually but decided to mix things up a bit...my training diary has become a calendar on my kitchen wall so I can;t ignore it if it looks blank!!
I'm still lurking a bit...
I'm doing quite a lot of training at the moment actually but decided to mix things up a bit...my training diary has become a calendar on my kitchen wall so I can;t ignore it if it looks blank!!
In reply to mbh:
Thanks mbh for the summary.
Reasonably rubbish week.
M - Resting.
T - Climbing outside. Dampish so mostly laps on short overhanging routes.
W - Resting.
T - Climbing outside. More project attempts. Now seem to be going backwards. Might think about trying something else for a while to avoid going insane.
F - Resting.
S - Ill (diverticulitis).
S - Ill (diverticulitis).
Thanks mbh for the summary.
Reasonably rubbish week.
M - Resting.
T - Climbing outside. Dampish so mostly laps on short overhanging routes.
W - Resting.
T - Climbing outside. More project attempts. Now seem to be going backwards. Might think about trying something else for a while to avoid going insane.
F - Resting.
S - Ill (diverticulitis).
S - Ill (diverticulitis).
In reply to mbh:
Thanks mbh, turns out that saturday was a pretty weak session, felt much better this week.
Mon: Indoor routes. Hilarious Leading ladder 7b, got completely shut down by a move 2/3rds of the way up. Have no idea how to do it. The 7a from the leading ladder feels about 7b, figured out the crux but it was busy for the rest of the evening.
Wed: Rockover bouldering. Felt miles stronger than the last bouldering session but as Jake said they'd stripped loads of the problems so there was little to do downstairs. Did a hard problem on the 45degree board that I was pleased with then went up to the systems board and made up some problems then hit the campus board. I felt solid doing 1-4-6 leading with the left hand first but I was a couple of cms off being able to do it leading with the right hand so there's an imbalance there to work out. finished with pull ups and press ups (which I NEVER do) and had DOMS in my shoulders and core for 2 days afterwards.
Fri: Yoga for the first time in 2 weeks. Felt hard and was sore the next day.
Sat: Living in a world of make believe where I'm still in my early twenties I did two warm up routes in a very cold awesome walls stockport then got straight on the leading ladder 7a at which point a muscle in my back spasmed at the crux (which is pretty strenuous). Had about 40mins of stretching and just belaying before getting back on easy stuff for most of the session. A 7a I'd done previous was the highpoint of a pretty useless session. Got on the campus board at the end and did one 1-4-6 leading with the right hand but it still feels miles easier leading with the left. Has anyone else experienced that?
Thanks mbh, turns out that saturday was a pretty weak session, felt much better this week.
Mon: Indoor routes. Hilarious Leading ladder 7b, got completely shut down by a move 2/3rds of the way up. Have no idea how to do it. The 7a from the leading ladder feels about 7b, figured out the crux but it was busy for the rest of the evening.
Wed: Rockover bouldering. Felt miles stronger than the last bouldering session but as Jake said they'd stripped loads of the problems so there was little to do downstairs. Did a hard problem on the 45degree board that I was pleased with then went up to the systems board and made up some problems then hit the campus board. I felt solid doing 1-4-6 leading with the left hand first but I was a couple of cms off being able to do it leading with the right hand so there's an imbalance there to work out. finished with pull ups and press ups (which I NEVER do) and had DOMS in my shoulders and core for 2 days afterwards.
Fri: Yoga for the first time in 2 weeks. Felt hard and was sore the next day.
Sat: Living in a world of make believe where I'm still in my early twenties I did two warm up routes in a very cold awesome walls stockport then got straight on the leading ladder 7a at which point a muscle in my back spasmed at the crux (which is pretty strenuous). Had about 40mins of stretching and just belaying before getting back on easy stuff for most of the session. A 7a I'd done previous was the highpoint of a pretty useless session. Got on the campus board at the end and did one 1-4-6 leading with the right hand but it still feels miles easier leading with the left. Has anyone else experienced that?
Post edited at 12:55
In reply to mbh:
Thanks for doing the stats mbh. I don't think it's made a noticeable difference to my confidence yet, but I've only been doing it for a couple of sessions so might not expect to see anything yet!
M - yoga, swimming (2.0km). A pretty hard set with lots of 50m sprints off 90s.
T - TCA, traverses again. Consistently got to about 30 moves on the 6b+ I'd been lapping last week, but couldn't complete it. I blame a poor night's sleep, I often find it hard to sleep immediately after swimming.
W - swimming (2.5km). More sprints, I really struggled on the back end 100m freestyle, came in on about 1:07 (5-6 years ago, I would have expected sub-1:05 in training, probably nearer 1:02)
T - Redpoint. Quite a light session, but felt really good. Climbed 2x6c onsight, which I really wouldn't have expected 5-6 months ago.
F - Morning run, 7km followed by combined core/fingerboard stuff. I really liked the system of doing core exercises (e.g. 3x15 press ups/sit ups, 2:30 plank) in between sets of repeaters on the fingerboard!
S - Rest
S - 7km hill run, same as Christmas day, about 400-500m ascent. Watch lost the data somehow when I plugged it into my computer I remember it being average 6:06/km, so just under 43 minutes total. Felt good.
Keeping up with the volume this week, and it hurt less so I must be doing something right! Now to see if I can get a third wall session in, while keeping everything else on. I suspect that will depend on what I do at the weekend (i.e. what the weather's doing in Scotland at the weekend).
Does anybody else have problems sleeping after training in the evening (swimming training finishes at 9:30 on Monday, 10:00 on Wednesday)? I felt really under-powered on Tuesday, and I don't think it's just because my muscles were tired from Monday. I'd even had a rest day Sunday! That said, maybe the sprints take it out of me a bit more, I'll keep assessing and maybe try to juggle some things around (or just set my alarm later Tuesday mornings).
January's goals
Just get back into my usual training load after Christmas etc. I was happy with the level I got to
Make a training plan for the medium-term. Done
Short term goals (February)
Increase training volume again during the next 3-week block (17/02-09/03)
One winter climbing weekend. Two possibilities
At least 2 days climbing outdoors. I hope this is a really conservative goal!
Medium term goals (March)
Some winter climbing. I have no plans for the next two weekends. Fingers crossed for conditions.
Stick to the training plan that I finalise this month. 2/12 weeks down!
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Current best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Total to date: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 42/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in e.g. 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr. Coach informs me there are plenty of galas in March/April.
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
> Nick Russell - Good evidence of progress from the indoor routes numbers, and now you are falling off on purpose. Has that helped your confidence, do you think?
Thanks for doing the stats mbh. I don't think it's made a noticeable difference to my confidence yet, but I've only been doing it for a couple of sessions so might not expect to see anything yet!
M - yoga, swimming (2.0km). A pretty hard set with lots of 50m sprints off 90s.
T - TCA, traverses again. Consistently got to about 30 moves on the 6b+ I'd been lapping last week, but couldn't complete it. I blame a poor night's sleep, I often find it hard to sleep immediately after swimming.
W - swimming (2.5km). More sprints, I really struggled on the back end 100m freestyle, came in on about 1:07 (5-6 years ago, I would have expected sub-1:05 in training, probably nearer 1:02)
T - Redpoint. Quite a light session, but felt really good. Climbed 2x6c onsight, which I really wouldn't have expected 5-6 months ago.
F - Morning run, 7km followed by combined core/fingerboard stuff. I really liked the system of doing core exercises (e.g. 3x15 press ups/sit ups, 2:30 plank) in between sets of repeaters on the fingerboard!
S - Rest
S - 7km hill run, same as Christmas day, about 400-500m ascent. Watch lost the data somehow when I plugged it into my computer I remember it being average 6:06/km, so just under 43 minutes total. Felt good.
Keeping up with the volume this week, and it hurt less so I must be doing something right! Now to see if I can get a third wall session in, while keeping everything else on. I suspect that will depend on what I do at the weekend (i.e. what the weather's doing in Scotland at the weekend).
Does anybody else have problems sleeping after training in the evening (swimming training finishes at 9:30 on Monday, 10:00 on Wednesday)? I felt really under-powered on Tuesday, and I don't think it's just because my muscles were tired from Monday. I'd even had a rest day Sunday! That said, maybe the sprints take it out of me a bit more, I'll keep assessing and maybe try to juggle some things around (or just set my alarm later Tuesday mornings).
January's goals
Just get back into my usual training load after Christmas etc. I was happy with the level I got to
Make a training plan for the medium-term. Done
Short term goals (February)
Increase training volume again during the next 3-week block (17/02-09/03)
One winter climbing weekend. Two possibilities
At least 2 days climbing outdoors. I hope this is a really conservative goal!
Medium term goals (March)
Some winter climbing. I have no plans for the next two weekends. Fingers crossed for conditions.
Stick to the training plan that I finalise this month. 2/12 weeks down!
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Current best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Total to date: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 42/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in e.g. 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr. Coach informs me there are plenty of galas in March/April.
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
In reply to Joughton:
Congratulations, that's awesome!
(if you're doing any of A-level maths, physics or chemistry, I'm happy to answer questions. I have studied all of these at university, albeit quite a long time ago...)
> I got my first offer for medicine! A*AA from Exeter
Congratulations, that's awesome!
(if you're doing any of A-level maths, physics or chemistry, I'm happy to answer questions. I have studied all of these at university, albeit quite a long time ago...)
In reply to mbh:
M - 5.8 miles from home.
T - 7.5 miles from work. Flood works force new way back at the end, which I used again twice later in the week
W -
T - 9.8 miles from work
F - 9.8 miles from work. Same as Thursday, but in reverse. Several stops, not feeling good
S - 13.1 miles. Super fast 7:00 ish first 6 miles, then several stops on the way home. Still not good.
S - 14.6 miles slowish (8:22 overall) but lots of hills (385 m) and a few miles in the 7s midway. No stops, feel tired but good.
60.6 miles and 1070 m ascent. Much of the running at 7:30-7:40 overall, but too many stops.
37 miles sub 8:00, of which 16 sub 7:30 and 4 sub 7:00.
Milestone of the week: Average of 50 mpw now goes back for 52 weeks.
I read a bit this week about what others do, and what it takes to get really fast. It just depressed me, because so many people are so good, and I don't think I will ever be at their level. I think I am too lazy to do real interval running, and so probably never will. However, I am now running routes I was doing a year ago about 45-60s a mile faster, so something is working. I do do a kind of interval running, having set my watch to show me my current pace, and end up doing a kind of sawtooth pace, with a period of 1 mile, as I first coast then try to get in each mile to a target pace, usually 7:30 and occasionally 7:00.
I am supposedly aiming for a BG attempt in May or in the summer, so I really ought to be trying long days out now.
M - 5.8 miles from home.
T - 7.5 miles from work. Flood works force new way back at the end, which I used again twice later in the week
W -
T - 9.8 miles from work
F - 9.8 miles from work. Same as Thursday, but in reverse. Several stops, not feeling good
S - 13.1 miles. Super fast 7:00 ish first 6 miles, then several stops on the way home. Still not good.
S - 14.6 miles slowish (8:22 overall) but lots of hills (385 m) and a few miles in the 7s midway. No stops, feel tired but good.
60.6 miles and 1070 m ascent. Much of the running at 7:30-7:40 overall, but too many stops.
37 miles sub 8:00, of which 16 sub 7:30 and 4 sub 7:00.
Milestone of the week: Average of 50 mpw now goes back for 52 weeks.
I read a bit this week about what others do, and what it takes to get really fast. It just depressed me, because so many people are so good, and I don't think I will ever be at their level. I think I am too lazy to do real interval running, and so probably never will. However, I am now running routes I was doing a year ago about 45-60s a mile faster, so something is working. I do do a kind of interval running, having set my watch to show me my current pace, and end up doing a kind of sawtooth pace, with a period of 1 mile, as I first coast then try to get in each mile to a target pace, usually 7:30 and occasionally 7:00.
I am supposedly aiming for a BG attempt in May or in the summer, so I really ought to be trying long days out now.
In reply to Joughton/Nick Russell:
Yes Jake, well done! Roll on some other offers.
Similar offer of help, although I studied all those a lot longer ago than Nick did. (btw, I think I did my PhD in the very same building that you must be doing yours in, Nick!)
Yes Jake, well done! Roll on some other offers.
Similar offer of help, although I studied all those a lot longer ago than Nick did. (btw, I think I did my PhD in the very same building that you must be doing yours in, Nick!)
In reply to mbh:
Ta dude.
A better week for climbing including a fantastic grit day today at The Roaches with friends. Certainly a top day out and got very close on Drunk Enough. I'll have that this week!
Weight: 136 lbs
STG:
Drunk Enough 6C+ (Roaches)
Sleeping With The Flowers 7A (Roaches)
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Get out on the ropes!
MTG (by Dec 2014):
Consolodate winter experience
Get out to the Alps (trip booked for June!)
500 pitches this year, lead or second (total: 0)
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet (on a back burner as the Churnet has now entered green mode for the most part)
VLTG (dreams):
Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Something on the Grand Jurasses...
Wheel of Life
This Week:
M: Bouldering indoor. Flashing V4s including my weak area – slabs.
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: 45mins turbo
F: 1hr turbo
S: Bouldering indoor. Focusing on traverses to get some endurance back in. Flashing V4s.
S: Bouldering (Roaches). A damn good attempt on Drunk Enough. Received some quality beta for the last move which certainly got me closer – I'll have that this next week. Also managed Cooper's Traverse around 5 times in a row, which I'm pretty chuffed with endurance-wise.
Ta dude.
A better week for climbing including a fantastic grit day today at The Roaches with friends. Certainly a top day out and got very close on Drunk Enough. I'll have that this week!
Weight: 136 lbs
STG:
Drunk Enough 6C+ (Roaches)
Sleeping With The Flowers 7A (Roaches)
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Get out on the ropes!
MTG (by Dec 2014):
Consolodate winter experience
Get out to the Alps (trip booked for June!)
500 pitches this year, lead or second (total: 0)
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet (on a back burner as the Churnet has now entered green mode for the most part)
VLTG (dreams):
Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Something on the Grand Jurasses...
Wheel of Life
This Week:
M: Bouldering indoor. Flashing V4s including my weak area – slabs.
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: 45mins turbo
F: 1hr turbo
S: Bouldering indoor. Focusing on traverses to get some endurance back in. Flashing V4s.
S: Bouldering (Roaches). A damn good attempt on Drunk Enough. Received some quality beta for the last move which certainly got me closer – I'll have that this next week. Also managed Cooper's Traverse around 5 times in a row, which I'm pretty chuffed with endurance-wise.
In reply to mbh:
Thanks for fitclub write-up. Not entirely sure that 'adventure' routes are my think! I certainly have a little list for stuff I'd like to try in Chorro, but will also be heavily relying on AJM's suggestions. After another week of pissing down rain I can't wait (although I fully realise tat Spain can do rain BIG TIME too!)
Anyway, my week - nothing stand-out amazing but a lot of mileage:
M: Cycle commute. UCR in evening but there was an event on so ended up being a short session. Should hav sensibly crammed in lots of stamina stuff, but foolishly tried some 7as instead, which tends not to be a great idea after a day at work so no amazing successes.
T: Cycle commute. TRX for 1 1/2 hours by which time I was feeling positively nauseous. Hey, who wants a good core anyway.
W: day off work. Went and did a long TCA session. Tried the new green problems with zero tops. Did a few circuits (inc sorting the bit I had got stuck on on the 7a - no I wasn't missing a subtle technical foot placement - just had to stretch more), then pounded round all the blue easy problems back to back with no rests which was fun.
T: Cycle commute then UCR with Kate. New bouldering problems then a v quick 6 routes to finish.
F: Cycle commute.
S: UCR circuits. 11 all told. Got to 36 on the 7a+. Tentative go on the 7b+. Got to 20 but then weight too high so snookered. With pratise could definitely get further. Rather tired by the end of the session.
S: Fun at Redpoint- we did lots of the little vicious TR routes, about 20 I think. The grades are a bit by the by as the routes are v intense - they just don't let up. Knackered!
Won't be able to post next week due to being in sunny (fingers crossed) Spain. Hope all the hard work over the last month or so pays off.
Thanks for fitclub write-up. Not entirely sure that 'adventure' routes are my think! I certainly have a little list for stuff I'd like to try in Chorro, but will also be heavily relying on AJM's suggestions. After another week of pissing down rain I can't wait (although I fully realise tat Spain can do rain BIG TIME too!)
Anyway, my week - nothing stand-out amazing but a lot of mileage:
M: Cycle commute. UCR in evening but there was an event on so ended up being a short session. Should hav sensibly crammed in lots of stamina stuff, but foolishly tried some 7as instead, which tends not to be a great idea after a day at work so no amazing successes.
T: Cycle commute. TRX for 1 1/2 hours by which time I was feeling positively nauseous. Hey, who wants a good core anyway.
W: day off work. Went and did a long TCA session. Tried the new green problems with zero tops. Did a few circuits (inc sorting the bit I had got stuck on on the 7a - no I wasn't missing a subtle technical foot placement - just had to stretch more), then pounded round all the blue easy problems back to back with no rests which was fun.
T: Cycle commute then UCR with Kate. New bouldering problems then a v quick 6 routes to finish.
F: Cycle commute.
S: UCR circuits. 11 all told. Got to 36 on the 7a+. Tentative go on the 7b+. Got to 20 but then weight too high so snookered. With pratise could definitely get further. Rather tired by the end of the session.
S: Fun at Redpoint- we did lots of the little vicious TR routes, about 20 I think. The grades are a bit by the by as the routes are v intense - they just don't let up. Knackered!
Won't be able to post next week due to being in sunny (fingers crossed) Spain. Hope all the hard work over the last month or so pays off.
In reply to hms:
It's OK, they had all their winter rain whilst I was there so you'll be fine.
> (although I fully realise tat Spain can do rain BIG TIME too!)
It's OK, they had all their winter rain whilst I was there so you'll be fine.
In reply to stevemarkperry:
Which move are you struggling with on de, have you got to the big thing under the roof with your left hand?
Which move are you struggling with on de, have you got to the big thing under the roof with your left hand?
In reply to Eagle River:
I always found my campus performance better when my dominant (left) hand was the bottom one (ie I could hit 1-4-5.5 when my right hand was on 4, but not the other way round). From your description I'm not sure if that's the same way round as you or not. I figured it was because a lot of the force comes from turning the bottom hand from pulling to pushing as you move on upwards and that it was there that my dominant hand was best used.
I always found my campus performance better when my dominant (left) hand was the bottom one (ie I could hit 1-4-5.5 when my right hand was on 4, but not the other way round). From your description I'm not sure if that's the same way round as you or not. I figured it was because a lot of the force comes from turning the bottom hand from pulling to pushing as you move on upwards and that it was there that my dominant hand was best used.
In reply to mbh:
Thanks for doing FC
Aims for the year:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
M: 45min antagonistice weights & core
T: Nothing - working late
W: am - 45min road run. pm - 45min road run & 30min antagonistic weights & core
T: 1hr 20min PE at wall. getting further on white traverse, 7b
F: 40min dry tooling - good endurance session
S: Rest
S: 1hr 20min P/PE traverses at wall - linking first two thirds of whit traverse into last third
Weight this morning 11st 12lb so travelling in the right direction again.
Thanks for doing FC
Aims for the year:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
M: 45min antagonistice weights & core
T: Nothing - working late
W: am - 45min road run. pm - 45min road run & 30min antagonistic weights & core
T: 1hr 20min PE at wall. getting further on white traverse, 7b
F: 40min dry tooling - good endurance session
S: Rest
S: 1hr 20min P/PE traverses at wall - linking first two thirds of whit traverse into last third
Weight this morning 11st 12lb so travelling in the right direction again.
In reply to mbh:
Only rode into work three times this week. I was lazy and got a lift one of the days.
Did a climbing session yesterday though and went for an 18 mile maiden voyage on the bikes for the other half today. Id forgotten how nice it is to just ride out for the pleasure of it rather than just riding to work.
Apparently im climbing much better. I still fell off a 6a but I feel it's coming together more now.
Not long now to Chorro. Time is flying by.
Body fat... Cant bear to measure it right now.
Hope to get 4 commutes in next week plus two proper climbing sessions and a ride out at the weekend. Just a nice hilly 50 miler
Only rode into work three times this week. I was lazy and got a lift one of the days.
Did a climbing session yesterday though and went for an 18 mile maiden voyage on the bikes for the other half today. Id forgotten how nice it is to just ride out for the pleasure of it rather than just riding to work.
Apparently im climbing much better. I still fell off a 6a but I feel it's coming together more now.
Not long now to Chorro. Time is flying by.
Body fat... Cant bear to measure it right now.
Hope to get 4 commutes in next week plus two proper climbing sessions and a ride out at the weekend. Just a nice hilly 50 miler
In reply to mbh:
Still got the lurgy. It took me until Thursday to stop aching from last Sunday's wall session... I'm really sick of it now and feel fat and unfit, still have no energy
I did drag myself to orienteering on Wed... and was beaten by the cub scout team. Terrible idea, head just pounded as soon as I started running.
Went to Leeds Wall today, mainly led 5s, one 6a I think, and TR'd a 6c which is definitely the new project. Positive small crimps and balancy reachy moves. Did all except one move first go, though had a couple of rests, and got the crux move(s) second go. Just a case of not pumping out, which given my state on 5s today having not been to the wall in yonks is a long way off My head had also totally gone today, was terrified of falling, so need to work on that again next time.
This week, I'm going to do a core session, 2 wall sessions and try a run again. Anything else is a bonus!
Still got the lurgy. It took me until Thursday to stop aching from last Sunday's wall session... I'm really sick of it now and feel fat and unfit, still have no energy
I did drag myself to orienteering on Wed... and was beaten by the cub scout team. Terrible idea, head just pounded as soon as I started running.
Went to Leeds Wall today, mainly led 5s, one 6a I think, and TR'd a 6c which is definitely the new project. Positive small crimps and balancy reachy moves. Did all except one move first go, though had a couple of rests, and got the crux move(s) second go. Just a case of not pumping out, which given my state on 5s today having not been to the wall in yonks is a long way off My head had also totally gone today, was terrified of falling, so need to work on that again next time.
This week, I'm going to do a core session, 2 wall sessions and try a run again. Anything else is a bonus!
Post edited at 20:53
In reply to mbh:
Oh crumbs, we weren't really indignant and I didn't make a scene (nor did I knick a prize but I'm sure you realised that) I was just saying it all for comic effect.
Right, to business....
M: Lazy
T: Boulder UK, confirmed my suspicions that the set upstairs are an anomaly. Newest downstairs did not succumb so easily.
W: Boulder UK, more failure
T: Went to a lecture to get inspired for mountaineering and winter climbing. Too cold and dangerous for me by the looks of things
F: Lazy
S: Went to Cardiff to watch 6 nations match
S: Taped finger and went to Rockover. 2.5 hour session
Injuries: Bad finger, a physio looked at it on Wed. He diagnosed chronic weakness and degenerative ageing. He agreed I had a knackered finger but said the rest of them were borderline shagged anyway so when it heals I'll probably be no worse off. Rest advised with an acknowledgement that I probably wouldn't. I've not done any dead hanging this week though.
Diet: Poor, the weekend included two curries, 6 pints and a couple of visits to Greggs.
> Tyler - bit of a to-do at the MCC..
> Joughton - Joins Tyler in mutual indignance re the MCC.
> Joughton - Joins Tyler in mutual indignance re the MCC.
Oh crumbs, we weren't really indignant and I didn't make a scene (nor did I knick a prize but I'm sure you realised that) I was just saying it all for comic effect.
Right, to business....
M: Lazy
T: Boulder UK, confirmed my suspicions that the set upstairs are an anomaly. Newest downstairs did not succumb so easily.
W: Boulder UK, more failure
T: Went to a lecture to get inspired for mountaineering and winter climbing. Too cold and dangerous for me by the looks of things
F: Lazy
S: Went to Cardiff to watch 6 nations match
S: Taped finger and went to Rockover. 2.5 hour session
Injuries: Bad finger, a physio looked at it on Wed. He diagnosed chronic weakness and degenerative ageing. He agreed I had a knackered finger but said the rest of them were borderline shagged anyway so when it heals I'll probably be no worse off. Rest advised with an acknowledgement that I probably wouldn't. I've not done any dead hanging this week though.
Diet: Poor, the weekend included two curries, 6 pints and a couple of visits to Greggs.
In reply to mbh:
The bike ride is 250miles in a 72 hour time period starting from highbury ending in huddersfield.
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
Lose 8kg
MTG (June 2014):
complete my bike ride
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
???
This week's goals:
7 rides in a week - Tick I will take the second ride to my mums as being a seperate ride even if I was only resting for 10 mins or so at home.
1x5k and 1x10k min - Tick
M: bike ride 6.3k with 75m of ascent
T: Lunch time walk 1mile
Evening ride 3.8km 35m ascent
W: Rest
T: 12.1km ride 101m ascent. Planned 10k did 12+2
Got home and had to go to my mums. so another 2km ride 23m ascent
Planned 10k did 12+another2
F: 4.6km ride 48m ascent
S: 24.8km ride 295m ascent. had planned to do 10 miles did 15
Then went out to ilkley tried a couple of things nothing hard or too seriously too windy
S: 8.4km 66m ascent. I went over my handle bars when I hit a curb.
Depot not many problems completed as I was working the red circuit. I also got a pretty good flapper.
Next week Goals:
>5 bike rides. all circa 5k+
1x 10mile+ ride
All in all a good week getting more and more confident on the bike too which is good
If anyone is interested in more details about my bike ride you can see details in my blog. http://grubesblog.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/pedal-for-pounds-5-my-biggest-chal...
> grubes - great to see you trying out your bike. What is the bike ride you are aiming for?
I am doing a chariy bike ride in April for Yorkshire air ambulance. I have written a blog for it. The bike ride is 250miles in a 72 hour time period starting from highbury ending in huddersfield.
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
Lose 8kg
MTG (June 2014):
complete my bike ride
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
???
This week's goals:
7 rides in a week - Tick I will take the second ride to my mums as being a seperate ride even if I was only resting for 10 mins or so at home.
1x5k and 1x10k min - Tick
M: bike ride 6.3k with 75m of ascent
T: Lunch time walk 1mile
Evening ride 3.8km 35m ascent
W: Rest
T: 12.1km ride 101m ascent. Planned 10k did 12+2
Got home and had to go to my mums. so another 2km ride 23m ascent
Planned 10k did 12+another2
F: 4.6km ride 48m ascent
S: 24.8km ride 295m ascent. had planned to do 10 miles did 15
Then went out to ilkley tried a couple of things nothing hard or too seriously too windy
S: 8.4km 66m ascent. I went over my handle bars when I hit a curb.
Depot not many problems completed as I was working the red circuit. I also got a pretty good flapper.
Next week Goals:
>5 bike rides. all circa 5k+
1x 10mile+ ride
All in all a good week getting more and more confident on the bike too which is good
If anyone is interested in more details about my bike ride you can see details in my blog. http://grubesblog.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/pedal-for-pounds-5-my-biggest-chal...
In reply to Joughton:
Congrats! But A*?? Do A levels have stars these days?! I thought that was only GCSEs...
> A*AA from Exeter, so I'm going to have to put some work in.
Congrats! But A*?? Do A levels have stars these days?! I thought that was only GCSEs...
In reply to maria85:
It's a recent introduction for those young'uns Maria, purely designed, I'm sure, to make us feel old...
Nice one Jake! Just think of it as extra motivation for studying And thanks mbh for doing fit club.
Last week was pretty quiet - one evening session at the Biscuit Factory but got so busy I struggled to get much done despite moving around to try and find a quiet spot! Failed to run into work due to various early morning life things (car to garage, doctors etc).
Weekend:
Sat - 8.5 mile walk on Anglesey - flat, but the gale force winds definitely made it hard work! Core session afterwards
Sun - Winter walk/scramble over Crib Goch and up Snowdon - first time had the crampons and axe out for a while! Great day out, feeling pretty tired by the end of it (lack of walking/hill fitness!).
Alcohol - 1 small beer Sat night.
It's a recent introduction for those young'uns Maria, purely designed, I'm sure, to make us feel old...
Nice one Jake! Just think of it as extra motivation for studying And thanks mbh for doing fit club.
Last week was pretty quiet - one evening session at the Biscuit Factory but got so busy I struggled to get much done despite moving around to try and find a quiet spot! Failed to run into work due to various early morning life things (car to garage, doctors etc).
Weekend:
Sat - 8.5 mile walk on Anglesey - flat, but the gale force winds definitely made it hard work! Core session afterwards
Sun - Winter walk/scramble over Crib Goch and up Snowdon - first time had the crampons and axe out for a while! Great day out, feeling pretty tired by the end of it (lack of walking/hill fitness!).
Alcohol - 1 small beer Sat night.
In reply to mbh:
Thanks for doing fit club. Dish tucks are sit ups where you also bring your legs to your chest while you do the 'up' bit.
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (no change)
M - 1.5 hrs at wall
T - 500 dish tucks
W - 1.5 hrs Yoga
T - 500 dish tucks
F - Rest
S - 500 dish tucks
S - Fingerboard
Good training week really. Eventually I'll hit tompr levels of dish tucks. It seems to have worked well for him. My shoulder has been very stiff, hence knocking off stuff like planks/push-ups/shouldery yoga.
Had a great weekend. Watched Rugby at the local pitch (Ospreys vs Sale) with my father in law. Then went to a mates wedding, which was in an excellent hotel, good grub and all my mates there. Had a wonderful time. Sadly the wife has been ill all weekend. Hasn't done well for my tum tho.
My fingerboarding isn't really much. I just have a 2x4 mounted on the wall, so it's just one edge. I just do a bunch of 2/3/4 fingered hangs. I can nearly do the 4 fingered one (2 handed) for about 5 secs now. But it only takes 10 mins or so to do it all. Is that normal? Would it be ok do that twice (or more?) a week?
3 core (dish tucks!) - 3
1 yoga - 1
2 climbs - 1
1 finger board - 1
Same goals for next week. Will hit the 2 climbs this week!
Thanks for doing fit club. Dish tucks are sit ups where you also bring your legs to your chest while you do the 'up' bit.
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (no change)
M - 1.5 hrs at wall
T - 500 dish tucks
W - 1.5 hrs Yoga
T - 500 dish tucks
F - Rest
S - 500 dish tucks
S - Fingerboard
Good training week really. Eventually I'll hit tompr levels of dish tucks. It seems to have worked well for him. My shoulder has been very stiff, hence knocking off stuff like planks/push-ups/shouldery yoga.
Had a great weekend. Watched Rugby at the local pitch (Ospreys vs Sale) with my father in law. Then went to a mates wedding, which was in an excellent hotel, good grub and all my mates there. Had a wonderful time. Sadly the wife has been ill all weekend. Hasn't done well for my tum tho.
My fingerboarding isn't really much. I just have a 2x4 mounted on the wall, so it's just one edge. I just do a bunch of 2/3/4 fingered hangs. I can nearly do the 4 fingered one (2 handed) for about 5 secs now. But it only takes 10 mins or so to do it all. Is that normal? Would it be ok do that twice (or more?) a week?
3 core (dish tucks!) - 3
1 yoga - 1
2 climbs - 1
1 finger board - 1
Same goals for next week. Will hit the 2 climbs this week!
In reply to mbh:
Cheers mbh. Queen of staggering slowly uphill more like! As for your speed issues, you seem to be getting quicker every week? You're doing something right.
STG (Spain next week): better stats with 7as, RP 7a+ or 7b.
MTG (indoor winter season): V6 at boulderuk, 7b indoors.
LTG (Spring and Summer): RP 7b+, more E1s and E2s.
Mon: hill reps, more staggering uphill.
Tues: Boulderuk, new set, ticked 1 x V5, worked others. Pleased to find out this set has not been downgraded!
Weds: 15.4km trail and road run, 292m ascent. 5.54/km.
Thurs: routes Kendal. Worked 7b and 7a. Laps at the end. Felt weak and unfit.
Fri: 17.6km trail run Pendle Hill, 413m ascent. 7.07/km. Wind, snow and hail.
Sat: routes Stockport, worked a 7a. Very weak!
Sun: planned a rest day but ended up at the depot later on. Ticked a few more pinks, purples and woods.
I have a cold which kicked in on Saturday and is hopefully why I was so weak and rubbish at climbing this week. I should have rested yesterday but I couldn't resist the lure of indoor evening bouldering. Still feel rubbish today but I am considering a routes session this evening. I should probably avoid running.
I've got a 10 day climbing trip to Costa Blanca next week, leaving on Friday. Not sure whether I will focus on onsighting or RPing, if onisghting then I'll try to do better on 7as, if RPing then I'll try to get a quicker 7a+ or 7b.
Cheers mbh. Queen of staggering slowly uphill more like! As for your speed issues, you seem to be getting quicker every week? You're doing something right.
STG (Spain next week): better stats with 7as, RP 7a+ or 7b.
MTG (indoor winter season): V6 at boulderuk, 7b indoors.
LTG (Spring and Summer): RP 7b+, more E1s and E2s.
Mon: hill reps, more staggering uphill.
Tues: Boulderuk, new set, ticked 1 x V5, worked others. Pleased to find out this set has not been downgraded!
Weds: 15.4km trail and road run, 292m ascent. 5.54/km.
Thurs: routes Kendal. Worked 7b and 7a. Laps at the end. Felt weak and unfit.
Fri: 17.6km trail run Pendle Hill, 413m ascent. 7.07/km. Wind, snow and hail.
Sat: routes Stockport, worked a 7a. Very weak!
Sun: planned a rest day but ended up at the depot later on. Ticked a few more pinks, purples and woods.
I have a cold which kicked in on Saturday and is hopefully why I was so weak and rubbish at climbing this week. I should have rested yesterday but I couldn't resist the lure of indoor evening bouldering. Still feel rubbish today but I am considering a routes session this evening. I should probably avoid running.
I've got a 10 day climbing trip to Costa Blanca next week, leaving on Friday. Not sure whether I will focus on onsighting or RPing, if onisghting then I'll try to do better on 7as, if RPing then I'll try to get a quicker 7a+ or 7b.
In reply to mbh:
Thanks MBH, i'm a sucker for some technical terminology, i've no idea if i've applied the right terms to the right exercises but it all feels pretty good and hard work so i'll stick with it!
Great week this week, did my first AnPow session on Wednesday, seriously hard work but I left the wall feeling completely psyched and very broken (in a good way).
I did the 6 moves across the crux of a v5 repeated 4 times with 15 second rests, then 6 moves on a v4 4 times with 15 second rests and then the same v4 again.
That first rep might feel ok but number 4 had me screaming! I even got my first effort-related flapper since the 'op which I was inordinately chuffed about!
Almost all my weights have gone up in the gym too, I've had to add 10 kilos to my dips to stay in the desired rep range at failure, I'm nearly shoulder pressing my bodyweight, it's all good.
But even after all that, the best bit this week is that I have had no issues with my elbows. They've been a tad sore and felt delicate some days but with sensible warming up and some good stretching, they haven't held me back once!
M: Chest; incline bench, decline dumbell press, flat flys, dips, tricep rear raise
T: Core; crunches, l hangs, front lever (knees bent) knee raise twists, leg raises
W: Climb AnPow; v5x4 v4x4 v4x4
T: Shoulder; Smith press, upright row, front dumbell raise, 1 arm cable front raise, seated lateral raise, cable reverse fly
F:
S:
S: Climb, Boulder indoor
I tried out the new boulder wall, The Project in Poole on Sunday, it's pretty cool, set up on a budget but with loads of scope for expansion. It was also nice to walk in and see loads of familiar faces from the Bournemouth/Swanage area.
I didn't structure the session, just had a fun climb with friends, but I was really pleased to find I could pretty much climb move for move with some friends who are damn strong. I feel like I still have miles to go before i'm properly strong but it turns out i'm already doing pretty well, if I can reach my full potential I think I will be way, way stronger than I ever was before.
STG: 7b redpoint indoor.
Stay injury free
MTG: La Carnage as Bas Cuvier in April.
Stay injury free
LTG: 8a repdoint this year
Stay injury free!
Thanks MBH, i'm a sucker for some technical terminology, i've no idea if i've applied the right terms to the right exercises but it all feels pretty good and hard work so i'll stick with it!
Great week this week, did my first AnPow session on Wednesday, seriously hard work but I left the wall feeling completely psyched and very broken (in a good way).
I did the 6 moves across the crux of a v5 repeated 4 times with 15 second rests, then 6 moves on a v4 4 times with 15 second rests and then the same v4 again.
That first rep might feel ok but number 4 had me screaming! I even got my first effort-related flapper since the 'op which I was inordinately chuffed about!
Almost all my weights have gone up in the gym too, I've had to add 10 kilos to my dips to stay in the desired rep range at failure, I'm nearly shoulder pressing my bodyweight, it's all good.
But even after all that, the best bit this week is that I have had no issues with my elbows. They've been a tad sore and felt delicate some days but with sensible warming up and some good stretching, they haven't held me back once!
M: Chest; incline bench, decline dumbell press, flat flys, dips, tricep rear raise
T: Core; crunches, l hangs, front lever (knees bent) knee raise twists, leg raises
W: Climb AnPow; v5x4 v4x4 v4x4
T: Shoulder; Smith press, upright row, front dumbell raise, 1 arm cable front raise, seated lateral raise, cable reverse fly
F:
S:
S: Climb, Boulder indoor
I tried out the new boulder wall, The Project in Poole on Sunday, it's pretty cool, set up on a budget but with loads of scope for expansion. It was also nice to walk in and see loads of familiar faces from the Bournemouth/Swanage area.
I didn't structure the session, just had a fun climb with friends, but I was really pleased to find I could pretty much climb move for move with some friends who are damn strong. I feel like I still have miles to go before i'm properly strong but it turns out i'm already doing pretty well, if I can reach my full potential I think I will be way, way stronger than I ever was before.
STG: 7b redpoint indoor.
Stay injury free
MTG: La Carnage as Bas Cuvier in April.
Stay injury free
LTG: 8a repdoint this year
Stay injury free!
In reply to mbh:
Cheers for the write-up mbh; I assume everyone else is finding the V5’s easy…
LTG (Sept 2014): Do some adventurous cycle touring and complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
L-MTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, T-1 Full Equip, or Humildes pas casa at Oliana?
MTG (By end Jan 2014):
2x An-cap sessions per week
2x Fingerboarding per week
2x Weight sessions per week
The Highlife – 7C+/8A – TICK!
Hatch Life High, 8A
Lou Ferrino sans pocket, 8A
Keep working on flexibility – LTG: try and get back to being able to do the splits!
STG (The coming week)
- Maintain weight – weekend biking helping to keep me on track; 75.8kg and 6.6% BF.
- Start Aero-power training again.
The week just gone:
M - Fingerboard 2. 2x pull-ups with 20kg on big pocket of BM2k, twice. 2x pull-ups with 20kg on front-2, twice. 2x repeaters with 2kg extra on big pocket of BM2k. 2x repeaters on front-2.
T - Nowt – Majority of campus board construction now complete.
W - Lamplight Cave session. Less soggy than previous week. 1st redpoint The Highlife ended at the final hard move, then sat in the car for 15min to stay warm and smashed it! BOOM! Probably not 8A, but definitely f8b-ish, so really chuffed as I haven’t started any aero-power training yet.
T - Boardroom. Was going to be a light recovery session, but competitive nature got the better of me and entered their “leading ladder” style comp. Typical Vickers vert rock-overs and new holds meant I didn’t do as well as I’d hoped. Good volume though.
F - Nowt. Stretching.
S - 2hr 20min on the road bike at a leisurely pace. 50km. Home just before heavens opened.
S - Wavelength bouldering up to 7B. On-sighted the “7B” and did other 7A stuff first or second go, but got shut down on a 7A - The Pebble ( no pebble now and a weird move to stand up on double thumb sprags? – Dunno couldn’t get past this move). Then it rained
Cheers for the write-up mbh; I assume everyone else is finding the V5’s easy…
LTG (Sept 2014): Do some adventurous cycle touring and complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
L-MTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, T-1 Full Equip, or Humildes pas casa at Oliana?
MTG (By end Jan 2014):
2x An-cap sessions per week
2x Fingerboarding per week
2x Weight sessions per week
The Highlife – 7C+/8A – TICK!
Hatch Life High, 8A
Lou Ferrino sans pocket, 8A
Keep working on flexibility – LTG: try and get back to being able to do the splits!
STG (The coming week)
- Maintain weight – weekend biking helping to keep me on track; 75.8kg and 6.6% BF.
- Start Aero-power training again.
The week just gone:
M - Fingerboard 2. 2x pull-ups with 20kg on big pocket of BM2k, twice. 2x pull-ups with 20kg on front-2, twice. 2x repeaters with 2kg extra on big pocket of BM2k. 2x repeaters on front-2.
T - Nowt – Majority of campus board construction now complete.
W - Lamplight Cave session. Less soggy than previous week. 1st redpoint The Highlife ended at the final hard move, then sat in the car for 15min to stay warm and smashed it! BOOM! Probably not 8A, but definitely f8b-ish, so really chuffed as I haven’t started any aero-power training yet.
T - Boardroom. Was going to be a light recovery session, but competitive nature got the better of me and entered their “leading ladder” style comp. Typical Vickers vert rock-overs and new holds meant I didn’t do as well as I’d hoped. Good volume though.
F - Nowt. Stretching.
S - 2hr 20min on the road bike at a leisurely pace. 50km. Home just before heavens opened.
S - Wavelength bouldering up to 7B. On-sighted the “7B” and did other 7A stuff first or second go, but got shut down on a 7A - The Pebble ( no pebble now and a weird move to stand up on double thumb sprags? – Dunno couldn’t get past this move). Then it rained
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Nomics!! no running or anything tonight.. you have a cold.. you push it you'll have a chest infection.. then you've had it for spain. listen to PPG! i over do it sometimes but with a trip coming up i'f be on my ass on the settee until was was loads better.. just strecth.. i usually kick the cold after two days if i do that.
L I S T E N!
you exercise freak of nature
Nomics!! no running or anything tonight.. you have a cold.. you push it you'll have a chest infection.. then you've had it for spain. listen to PPG! i over do it sometimes but with a trip coming up i'f be on my ass on the settee until was was loads better.. just strecth.. i usually kick the cold after two days if i do that.
L I S T E N!
you exercise freak of nature
In reply to Nomics4sale:
If it was the leading ladder 7a, don't worry about feeling weak on it. It's more like 7a+/b...
> Sat: routes Stockport, worked a 7a. Very weak!
If it was the leading ladder 7a, don't worry about feeling weak on it. It's more like 7a+/b...
Humperdink - Got a medal! Great report and fantastic running.
Cheers mbh - having a shiny medal always makes it worth it! I've still not completely got rid my of cough so this week was about keeping things relatively steady whilst still managing to get training in.
M: pm 5Mile easy in 33:08 - wet
Tu: pm 7/8Mile easy in 50:30 - wet, felt ok
W: pm 12Mile Steady in 73:36 - wet, felt good
Th: am run to work 2/3Mile pm - run home from work 9Mile in 63:42 - wet!!
F: pm 7Mile steady with one of the other lads from the club 46:56 - wet/windy evening (surprise!) we both manged to stack it on a muddy grass verge and ended up in a heap on top of one another. This was shortly follwed by us both getting up and trying to sooth damaged egos "yeh I'm fine, no worries"
Sa: Tried a bit of a session: 6,4,2,4,6min with 1min jog inbetween. Still windy and it was a bit of a struggle but got it done. 9Mile total
Su: Finally a dry, nice day! 17.5Mile in 1:53:17 (6:30 miling)
Total for the week ~70M. Pretty good week overall with a solid long run. Just need my cough to finally go now ahead of a race at the weekend. Oh, and I'd like to do more than one run a week with it not raining or is that too much to ask!?!?
Post edited at 09:33
In reply to mbh:
mbh, plank challenge is meant to be this: http://tribesports.com/challenges/30-day-plank-challenge-from-20-sec-to-5-m... but have got to 3mins and am beginning to lose form so will go back to just 2mins a day and continue it with good form for ever instead of stopping at the end of the month.
M - Plank challenge 2mins. MLTE Foundation Coach course training with Caff. Bouldering Indy 5x3/4 5x5 3x6a 1x6a+ working moves 1x6b working moves. Very little skin left from weekend at Beacon = pain. Good to share ideas and train with other coaches.
T - Plank challenge 2. Rest
W - Plank challenge 1.30. Bouldering Brookes (18 x green circuit, 3 x blue circuit and worked some others) Was meant to do 4x4s in the lead tower but got distracted by the new routing. BAD. But did warm up, stretch and eat a recovery snack.
T - Plank challenge 2.30. Rest
F - Plank challenge 2.30. Stuck at work til 10.30 so Rest.
S – Moved into my cottage in Peak District. Carried mattress up from main road to top of Matlock Bath. Chopped wood. That must count as exercise?! (nb The boulder mat sofa is particularly attractive)
S - Plank challenge 2mins. Raining. Recced Black Rocks for fairer weather and wrote a wishlist of VS-E1 to start with. Bouldering Brookes 5 x green circuit warm up 3 x blue circuit flash Worked 3 x blue circuit 2 x green traverse cool down
mbh, plank challenge is meant to be this: http://tribesports.com/challenges/30-day-plank-challenge-from-20-sec-to-5-m... but have got to 3mins and am beginning to lose form so will go back to just 2mins a day and continue it with good form for ever instead of stopping at the end of the month.
M - Plank challenge 2mins. MLTE Foundation Coach course training with Caff. Bouldering Indy 5x3/4 5x5 3x6a 1x6a+ working moves 1x6b working moves. Very little skin left from weekend at Beacon = pain. Good to share ideas and train with other coaches.
T - Plank challenge 2. Rest
W - Plank challenge 1.30. Bouldering Brookes (18 x green circuit, 3 x blue circuit and worked some others) Was meant to do 4x4s in the lead tower but got distracted by the new routing. BAD. But did warm up, stretch and eat a recovery snack.
T - Plank challenge 2.30. Rest
F - Plank challenge 2.30. Stuck at work til 10.30 so Rest.
S – Moved into my cottage in Peak District. Carried mattress up from main road to top of Matlock Bath. Chopped wood. That must count as exercise?! (nb The boulder mat sofa is particularly attractive)
S - Plank challenge 2mins. Raining. Recced Black Rocks for fairer weather and wrote a wishlist of VS-E1 to start with. Bouldering Brookes 5 x green circuit warm up 3 x blue circuit flash Worked 3 x blue circuit 2 x green traverse cool down
In reply to mbh:
cheers MBH
last week.. i'll ty to remember.. generally no fresh air which is rubbish.. annoyed about that but weather so wild i thoight i'f get a better cardio workout indoors .. as got my ass kicked all over ingleborough last week and my face has only just thawed out :o/
monday- rest (i think..about twohours sleep the night before .. unable to talk (to everyones relief) ..never mind train)
tuesday- off work as took mum to the pickle... so late morning 3 hour workout.. turbo.. good pace for 45 mins, weights.. good.. inc loads of pull ups and weighted pull ups then core. 1 hour intense and focussed PE session on the bouldering wall
wed- pm cardio and abs in the garage
thurs- kendal wall.. not great..was absolutely knackered from major lack of sleep, right arm pumping out fat too quickly, but loads of mileage, good laps at the end and upped my game with teh grade i'm lapping. pm bike in teh gym at kendal wall
friday- turbo in garage followed by bouldering and core. intense PE session again after working on wide pinches and rounded holds on both sides.. just 6 move sequences. much improved on the PE cicuits .. time to add harder ones to work on.
saturday- was goiungt o hill run.. walked out of house and got blasted with horizonatl rain. so uni gym.. intervals on bike, weights and abs and usual pull ups. weighed myself seem to be lighter i think but don't care
sunday- kendal wall .. good session, a bit shorter than usual, good psyche with partner, improvements made.. completely routes i suually fall off. worked the 7b.. climbed it more dynamically. pm step ups in front of tv.. fantasising about what i'm going to have for tea
my mum's sort of got the all clear for now. no more tests until the end of april.. so FREEDOM... spain next week.. turkey in april
if i can sort my sleeping out i think i'd get an extra 10-15% out of myself
PPG
cheers MBH
last week.. i'll ty to remember.. generally no fresh air which is rubbish.. annoyed about that but weather so wild i thoight i'f get a better cardio workout indoors .. as got my ass kicked all over ingleborough last week and my face has only just thawed out :o/
monday- rest (i think..about twohours sleep the night before .. unable to talk (to everyones relief) ..never mind train)
tuesday- off work as took mum to the pickle... so late morning 3 hour workout.. turbo.. good pace for 45 mins, weights.. good.. inc loads of pull ups and weighted pull ups then core. 1 hour intense and focussed PE session on the bouldering wall
wed- pm cardio and abs in the garage
thurs- kendal wall.. not great..was absolutely knackered from major lack of sleep, right arm pumping out fat too quickly, but loads of mileage, good laps at the end and upped my game with teh grade i'm lapping. pm bike in teh gym at kendal wall
friday- turbo in garage followed by bouldering and core. intense PE session again after working on wide pinches and rounded holds on both sides.. just 6 move sequences. much improved on the PE cicuits .. time to add harder ones to work on.
saturday- was goiungt o hill run.. walked out of house and got blasted with horizonatl rain. so uni gym.. intervals on bike, weights and abs and usual pull ups. weighed myself seem to be lighter i think but don't care
sunday- kendal wall .. good session, a bit shorter than usual, good psyche with partner, improvements made.. completely routes i suually fall off. worked the 7b.. climbed it more dynamically. pm step ups in front of tv.. fantasising about what i'm going to have for tea
my mum's sort of got the all clear for now. no more tests until the end of april.. so FREEDOM... spain next week.. turkey in april
if i can sort my sleeping out i think i'd get an extra 10-15% out of myself
PPG
In reply to pork pie girl:
But if I don't run today I'll have done no cardio for 4 days by the time of my next run! I'll get fat(ter) and my head will explode!
Or maybe I'll feel a bit better and have less snot streaming down my face.
Hmm..
But if I don't run today I'll have done no cardio for 4 days by the time of my next run! I'll get fat(ter) and my head will explode!
Or maybe I'll feel a bit better and have less snot streaming down my face.
Hmm..
In reply to AJM:
It's the same as you mention (I.e it's easier when my dominant (right) hand is on the lower rung) but rather than feeling like I get a better push off that right hand, it feels like my left is much stronger at locking off.
I'll do some more this week and see if I can compare lock of strength between both sides.
It's the same as you mention (I.e it's easier when my dominant (right) hand is on the lower rung) but rather than feeling like I get a better push off that right hand, it feels like my left is much stronger at locking off.
I'll do some more this week and see if I can compare lock of strength between both sides.
In reply to hms:
For a moment there I thought you were saying you need to lose weight...!
> ...then weight too high so snookered.
For a moment there I thought you were saying you need to lose weight...!
In reply to mbh:
Thanks mbh for the summary.
STG:
Boulder Font 7A
Redpoint sport 7b
Do a 100km ride TICK!
Lose weight to 72/73kg TICK!
new STGs:
- do a 100km ride once a week for a month
- promote one of my MTG's: lose weight to under 70kg.
MTG:
Boulder 7B (specific project at local spot)
Redpoint 7c
Ride Etape Eryri (160km) in Snowdonia in June.
Lose weight to under 67kg
LTG:
Redpoint 8a.
Last week:
M - Rest
T - Lunchtime bouldering. Went well but afterwards felt a slightest of merest of hints of a suspicion of a tweak to my left index finger around the A3 pulley.
W-F : Rested. Finger didn't hurt at all but still had suspicion. Maybe I'm imagining it but probably best to have a break, I've been bouldering hard for the last few weeks.
S: 102km on the road bike WHOO-HOO! First of my STG ticked! Tank was totally empty on the last 2.5km climb to my house, but I did it and I'm chuffed.
S: Superbowl. Too much unhealthy american food and too little sleep.
The other news this week is that my weight briefly dropped to below 73kg, before rising a bit (mostly due to eating out too much). This morning I was 73.4kg. Still, I count that as a STG tick.
So a mixed week - two STG's ticked, but the suspicion of an injury.
Next week:
I will return to the wall this week just to do endurance laps on big holds (I need to work on my endurance for a change anyway), and hopefully see if the finger reacts at all. Then at the weekend I'll try for another 100km ride.
Thanks mbh for the summary.
STG:
Boulder Font 7A
Redpoint sport 7b
Do a 100km ride TICK!
Lose weight to 72/73kg TICK!
new STGs:
- do a 100km ride once a week for a month
- promote one of my MTG's: lose weight to under 70kg.
MTG:
Boulder 7B (specific project at local spot)
Redpoint 7c
Ride Etape Eryri (160km) in Snowdonia in June.
Lose weight to under 67kg
LTG:
Redpoint 8a.
Last week:
M - Rest
T - Lunchtime bouldering. Went well but afterwards felt a slightest of merest of hints of a suspicion of a tweak to my left index finger around the A3 pulley.
W-F : Rested. Finger didn't hurt at all but still had suspicion. Maybe I'm imagining it but probably best to have a break, I've been bouldering hard for the last few weeks.
S: 102km on the road bike WHOO-HOO! First of my STG ticked! Tank was totally empty on the last 2.5km climb to my house, but I did it and I'm chuffed.
S: Superbowl. Too much unhealthy american food and too little sleep.
The other news this week is that my weight briefly dropped to below 73kg, before rising a bit (mostly due to eating out too much). This morning I was 73.4kg. Still, I count that as a STG tick.
So a mixed week - two STG's ticked, but the suspicion of an injury.
Next week:
I will return to the wall this week just to do endurance laps on big holds (I need to work on my endurance for a change anyway), and hopefully see if the finger reacts at all. Then at the weekend I'll try for another 100km ride.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Ah, no I don't think I could really cope with losing any weight! No, I got stuck too high up the wall on a rubbish hold and couldn't properly sink down onto my arms. Have you tried that circuit - bright yellow upstairs at UCR? The circuits there are just so much nicer than the unsubtle brutes at TCA.
Ah, no I don't think I could really cope with losing any weight! No, I got stuck too high up the wall on a rubbish hold and couldn't properly sink down onto my arms. Have you tried that circuit - bright yellow upstairs at UCR? The circuits there are just so much nicer than the unsubtle brutes at TCA.
In reply to mbh:
Thanks for the stats, mbh.
Had a great session this lunchtime to kick start the week. Last week was a write-off with work and family commitments. Feeling on a bit of a high!
Feeling like I'm more consolidated in the V2-4 problem range, so things must be paying off. Still chasing an onsight of a V2-4 problem.
Lots to go at after the re-route, so things are looking promising. Next goal, attempt a red/orange V5+.
In terms of yoga, never really considered it. I like Pilates and feel it has improved my core and back lots.
Thanks for the stats, mbh.
Had a great session this lunchtime to kick start the week. Last week was a write-off with work and family commitments. Feeling on a bit of a high!
Feeling like I'm more consolidated in the V2-4 problem range, so things must be paying off. Still chasing an onsight of a V2-4 problem.
Lots to go at after the re-route, so things are looking promising. Next goal, attempt a red/orange V5+.
In terms of yoga, never really considered it. I like Pilates and feel it has improved my core and back lots.
In reply to hms:
I haven't tried any of the circuits at UCR yet, just keep plugging away at the TCA ones. Although it's nicer to climb something with subtlety, there's something to be said for training on thuggy routes/circuits to get strong. (That is, as long as you're not completely neglecting technique...)
> Have you tried that circuit - bright yellow upstairs at UCR?
I haven't tried any of the circuits at UCR yet, just keep plugging away at the TCA ones. Although it's nicer to climb something with subtlety, there's something to be said for training on thuggy routes/circuits to get strong. (That is, as long as you're not completely neglecting technique...)
In reply to Nomics4sale:
I love the fact that rest-days-are-for-weaklings-PPG is telling you to rest! However I agree - dose up on the vit C and echinacea, get loads of sleep and send it away!
I love the fact that rest-days-are-for-weaklings-PPG is telling you to rest! However I agree - dose up on the vit C and echinacea, get loads of sleep and send it away!
In reply to mbh:
Hey, thanks for doing the thread.
Missed last week owing to slackness and working crazy hours. Still getting a good amount of climbing in but struggling with tiredness.
Previous week 4 boulder sessions inc a board session and a short campus.
This week 3 boulders (inc a board session), a campus and 1 attempted lead session which ended 2 routes in when I realised I was exhausted...
Another 2x V5 ticked (and another one tonight). I've never set myself indoor bouldering targets before but so far it's keeping me quite focused.
Feb's mini-goals:
3x V5 - 2 done
Weight under 63kg (currently between 63.5 and 64)
1x 7b+
At least 4 OS attempts at 7a or harder
Weather permitting, do the missing move on Fighting Torque and link from the ground to the undercuts or get Roadrage in a state to start RPs again.
Ally S - Cheers! I've wanted to do it for a very long time but didn't think it would ever happen. It feels a long way off still but definitely possible.
PPG/Nomics - have a great time in Spain
Hey, thanks for doing the thread.
Missed last week owing to slackness and working crazy hours. Still getting a good amount of climbing in but struggling with tiredness.
Previous week 4 boulder sessions inc a board session and a short campus.
This week 3 boulders (inc a board session), a campus and 1 attempted lead session which ended 2 routes in when I realised I was exhausted...
Another 2x V5 ticked (and another one tonight). I've never set myself indoor bouldering targets before but so far it's keeping me quite focused.
Feb's mini-goals:
3x V5 - 2 done
Weight under 63kg (currently between 63.5 and 64)
1x 7b+
At least 4 OS attempts at 7a or harder
Weather permitting, do the missing move on Fighting Torque and link from the ground to the undercuts or get Roadrage in a state to start RPs again.
Ally S - Cheers! I've wanted to do it for a very long time but didn't think it would ever happen. It feels a long way off still but definitely possible.
PPG/Nomics - have a great time in Spain
In reply to mrchewy:
cheers mate... it's still a bit complicated .. but got to take the positives as and when they occur
cheers mate... it's still a bit complicated .. but got to take the positives as and when they occur
In reply to Ali:
rest days are bbbbboooooooorrrrrrriiiinnnnggggg .. unless you're doing something good and not just actively resting.. wishing you weren't resting .. because it's boring..
get some falling practise in this week lady!
rest days are bbbbboooooooorrrrrrriiiinnnnggggg .. unless you're doing something good and not just actively resting.. wishing you weren't resting .. because it's boring..
get some falling practise in this week lady!
In reply to Curious Yellow:
cheers CY... i'll be shitting myself for the first day or two.. haven't been on rock for ages.. nomics on the other hand should've onsighted several 7as/7a+s and a couple of 7bs by the time myself and Paul get there a few days later..no pressure.
i realise i haven't said what my trip goals are... erm...
beast myself climbing every day if possible..
try and start a bit of a tan..
regular cardio..
regular core..
stretch ..
maybe read a book/part of a book..
do some colouring in if i can't concentrate long enough on reading..
eat turkey steaks from the steak house in town ..
oh and try and get back to 8 hours sleep each night.. because i look like a sack of crap all the time.. 2 to 3 hours sleep each night doesn't suit me.
i'd like to onsight some 7s too...
not get too drawn into projecting..
do a multi pitch day...
encourage paul to wash his feet etc..
PPG
cheers CY... i'll be shitting myself for the first day or two.. haven't been on rock for ages.. nomics on the other hand should've onsighted several 7as/7a+s and a couple of 7bs by the time myself and Paul get there a few days later..no pressure.
i realise i haven't said what my trip goals are... erm...
beast myself climbing every day if possible..
try and start a bit of a tan..
regular cardio..
regular core..
stretch ..
maybe read a book/part of a book..
do some colouring in if i can't concentrate long enough on reading..
eat turkey steaks from the steak house in town ..
oh and try and get back to 8 hours sleep each night.. because i look like a sack of crap all the time.. 2 to 3 hours sleep each night doesn't suit me.
i'd like to onsight some 7s too...
not get too drawn into projecting..
do a multi pitch day...
encourage paul to wash his feet etc..
PPG
In reply to mbh:
Little bit of light reading for you folks:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Little bit of light reading for you folks:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
In reply to mbh:
Cheers mbh!
Not the best week, had a lot on with lots of house viewings etc. Felt very tired. Having a better week this week though!
Monday: Boardroom
5 x V1-V2
2 x V2-V3
5 x V3-V4
Failed on loads of V5-V7's
Failed to repeat the Psicobloc 6c at the end of the session, couldn't even do the easy section, felt wasted...
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Boardroom
30 Minutes Aerocap
5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6c, 6c+
Got on a 7a but failed on it twice.
Warm down: 6b+, 6a
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Wavelength bouldering (Ally drives as fast as my Nan!)
Repeated 2 6B+'s then spent a while working the moves on King of Drunks (7A) feels possible now. Pissed it down as I was making progress... got soaked.
Cheers mbh!
Not the best week, had a lot on with lots of house viewings etc. Felt very tired. Having a better week this week though!
Monday: Boardroom
5 x V1-V2
2 x V2-V3
5 x V3-V4
Failed on loads of V5-V7's
Failed to repeat the Psicobloc 6c at the end of the session, couldn't even do the easy section, felt wasted...
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Boardroom
30 Minutes Aerocap
5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6c, 6c+
Got on a 7a but failed on it twice.
Warm down: 6b+, 6a
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Wavelength bouldering (Ally drives as fast as my Nan!)
Repeated 2 6B+'s then spent a while working the moves on King of Drunks (7A) feels possible now. Pissed it down as I was making progress... got soaked.
Post edited at 00:57
In reply to mbh:
I'm not going to be able to post tomorrow - Chorro here I come - so rather than risk forgetting what I did this week I thought I'd tag it on the bottom here. Having read the training guide AJM has linked to, whether I've been doing the right thing at the right time is anybody's guess. Bit late now, so just hope it works!
M cycle commute, UCR in evening going these 4-4 things. Except we ran out of time and it got really busy, so didn't do quite as much as I'd hoped. 6a 6a+ / 6b+ 6b+ 6 6b / 6c 6c 6b+ 6b+ / 6c 6c 6b+ 6a+ / 6b 6b
T cycle commute
W cycle commute. TCA trying new yellow problems. Some were just boring thug-fests, but many were thoughtful & clever little problems. Need to go back and have another go at the greens - they can't all be nails can they?
T cycle commute, finger board in evening. 3 full sets. Getting onto smaller holds now too, although the slopier sloper is still not possible on it's own.
F Redpoint new red core routes, but as ever turned out to be a shorter session than I wanted due to someone else whittering!
S nothing
S off I go....
I'm not going to be able to post tomorrow - Chorro here I come - so rather than risk forgetting what I did this week I thought I'd tag it on the bottom here. Having read the training guide AJM has linked to, whether I've been doing the right thing at the right time is anybody's guess. Bit late now, so just hope it works!
M cycle commute, UCR in evening going these 4-4 things. Except we ran out of time and it got really busy, so didn't do quite as much as I'd hoped. 6a 6a+ / 6b+ 6b+ 6 6b / 6c 6c 6b+ 6b+ / 6c 6c 6b+ 6a+ / 6b 6b
T cycle commute
W cycle commute. TCA trying new yellow problems. Some were just boring thug-fests, but many were thoughtful & clever little problems. Need to go back and have another go at the greens - they can't all be nails can they?
T cycle commute, finger board in evening. 3 full sets. Getting onto smaller holds now too, although the slopier sloper is still not possible on it's own.
F Redpoint new red core routes, but as ever turned out to be a shorter session than I wanted due to someone else whittering!
S nothing
S off I go....
In reply to hms:
Missed last week..
m: 14.00 mile longer slow run
t; 17.48 miles..lunch trails 6.1, pm: to track, indoor, 6x1k, in 3:20ish
w: 4.33 slow run very cold recovery run on roads in rostock
t; 15.3 miles lunxh steady 4, om trail loops in forest with group
f: 10.06 miles cold slow out and back, slow 8:20a
s; 20 miles at 6:47 pace around villages loop
s; 11.70 miles on roads around rostock
Missed last week..
m: 14.00 mile longer slow run
t; 17.48 miles..lunch trails 6.1, pm: to track, indoor, 6x1k, in 3:20ish
w: 4.33 slow run very cold recovery run on roads in rostock
t; 15.3 miles lunxh steady 4, om trail loops in forest with group
f: 10.06 miles cold slow out and back, slow 8:20a
s; 20 miles at 6:47 pace around villages loop
s; 11.70 miles on roads around rostock
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