In reply to HeMa:
Our take on it at our Scout wall is that a Fig 8 with stopper direct into the harness is:-
Safer, because...
- It won't cross-load (though as some have said I've seen walls use Belay Masters to avoid this)
- The climber won't either accidentally or because of fiddling with things become disconnected from the rope (we'd notice someone untying a Fig 8 before it became an issue)
Otherwise better, because...
- We can teach people how to tie in themselves (they do learn very quickly in my experience) so they know if they climb again
- It's the same as you'd expect to do at a wall
The only disadvantage is it taking a bit longer[1]. But in practice the amount of time required is fairly low. Though that time does have a disadvantage - despite drilling it into climbers that they must not climb until I say so, I have on one or two occasions had someone get a couple of feet up while my back was turned tying a knot.
As for leading on a krab, I wouldn't on a "loose" krab because the loose rope would mean a higher chance of cross-loading. On pure safety grounds I would on a Belay Master, but equally it'd get in the way so I can't see why I would want to.
Neil