/ NEWS: First round, first minute, 9b, by Adam Ondra

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UKC News - on 03 Feb 2014
Adam Ondra on Vasil Vasil, 9b+, Sloup, Czech Republic, 4 kbQuite unsurprisingly Adam Ondra has made the coveted first repeat of Chris Sharma's First round, first minute, ~9b, in the Raco de la finestra sector at Margalef.
Chris Sharma made the first ascent of this short, steep, very bouldery route on 19 April 2011 and no one has been able to repeat it...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68688
Morgan Woods - on 04 Feb 2014
In reply to UKC News:

wow....i wonder how long it took him?
ben davison - on 04 Feb 2014
In reply to UKC News:

FRFM is in the Laboratori sector not Finestra.

According to 8a.nu it took Adam 9-10 days. Seems like he was always trying it on very short trips, often in bad conditions though.
cb_6 - on 04 Feb 2014
In reply to UKC News:

I'd be gutted if there isn't footage of this...
r0x0r.wolfo - on 04 Feb 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Adam dat route thief.
Phil79 - on 04 Feb 2014
CurlyStevo - on 04 Feb 2014
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:

> Adam dat route thief.

Adam made the first repeat not the first ascent.

johncoxmysteriously - on 04 Feb 2014
In reply to UKC News:

He's a diplomat, Ondra, isn't he? I like his code for 'Sharma's a technically useless lout who spent ages trying to do it all wrong. It's not that hard'.

jcm
Michael Gordon - on 04 Feb 2014
In reply to Phil79:

Thanks for that
David_A - on 04 Feb 2014
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

>'... Sharma's a technically useless lout ...

> jcm

I'm not sure what that makes the rest of the climbing world. Are you sure you are reading that quite right?

johncoxmysteriously - on 04 Feb 2014
In reply to David_A:

A relative term.

jcm
RockSteady on 05 Feb 2014
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I felt Ondra's comment was more about Sharma getting 'beta blind' after spending so long trying to put up the route.

There seems to be a pervading idea that Sharma is technically not 'all that great' just really, really strong and dynamic. Of course, being dynamic is a technique. Personally, when I watch him climb something like Jumbo Love for example, his technique looks up there with the very best. Which ties in with him being one of the only (two) people to have climbed 9b and 9b+.
1poundSOCKS - on 05 Feb 2014
In reply to doylo: And it did sound like Sharma found the good beta eventually, and maybe he shared it with Ondra.

doylo - on 05 Feb 2014
In reply to UKC News:


Missing some beta does not mean you're technically useless. Happens to most people who do FAs
doylo - on 05 Feb 2014
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Yep its amazing how you can have tunnel vision on something you've spent so long on.
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1poundSOCKS - on 05 Feb 2014
In reply to doylo: Tell me about it. I spent ages on 2 purple problems down The Depot, until a helpful regular gave me some beta. :)


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