/ NEWS: First round, first minute, 9b, by Adam Ondra
Chris Sharma made the first ascent of this short, steep, very bouldery route on 19 April 2011 and no one has been able to repeat it...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68688
wow....i wonder how long it took him?
FRFM is in the Laboratori sector not Finestra.
According to 8a.nu it took Adam 9-10 days. Seems like he was always trying it on very short trips, often in bad conditions though.
I'd be gutted if there isn't footage of this...
Adam dat route thief.
Adam made the first repeat not the first ascent.
He's a diplomat, Ondra, isn't he? I like his code for 'Sharma's a technically useless lout who spent ages trying to do it all wrong. It's not that hard'.
Thanks for that
>'... Sharma's a technically useless lout ...
I'm not sure what that makes the rest of the climbing world. Are you sure you are reading that quite right?
A relative term.
I felt Ondra's comment was more about Sharma getting 'beta blind' after spending so long trying to put up the route.
There seems to be a pervading idea that Sharma is technically not 'all that great' just really, really strong and dynamic. Of course, being dynamic is a technique. Personally, when I watch him climb something like Jumbo Love for example, his technique looks up there with the very best. Which ties in with him being one of the only (two) people to have climbed 9b and 9b+.
Missing some beta does not mean you're technically useless. Happens to most people who do FAs
Yep its amazing how you can have tunnel vision on something you've spent so long on.
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