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Vari focus while climbing

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 Alan Pierce 06 Feb 2014
Normally i climb wearing specks that are for distance as apposed to reading glasses. I have had a new pair of vari vocals for two weeks now and it feels very weird when i go from looking upwards to looking down at my feet and directly in front of me.

It feels a bit trippy and also a bit unnerving waiting for my eyes to focus on footholds.

How long does it take to get used to this type of lens ?
 Choss 06 Feb 2014
In reply to Flash from the past:
It just Becomes Second Nature after a short While. I have vari Focals. Dont Take Long, your eyes will automatically go to the right part of the Lens. Wont bother your climbing.

Enjoy them, vari focals are great
Post edited at 16:24
 Jon Stewart 06 Feb 2014
In reply to Choss:

> Enjoy them, vari focals are great

I'm glad you said that. I've often wondered what climbing with presbyopia is like, and certainly doesn't seem to bother anyone. Which surprises me since you need quite a lot of intermediate vision for footholds, which requires the smallest part of a varifocal lens and the closest part to crap, distorted areas of the lens which I would expect come into play annoyingly.

Once I'm no longer able to flex my crystalline lens to focus on the object of regard, I think I'll try multifocal contact lenses for climbing (I think contacts are way better for climbing than specs). I still have a few years left [gloating emoticon].
 Choss 06 Feb 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Varifocal Transition areas are much smaller than they used to be. They are certainly Better than bifocals. like OP said they feel a bit trippy at first, but soon work brilliantly without thinking about it all.

Cant do contacts, cant touch my eyes cos im a Wuss.
 Jon Stewart 06 Feb 2014
In reply to Choss:

> Cant do contacts, cant touch my eyes cos im a Wuss.

You could if you tried. One of the main reasons I'd use contacts is because I'd be scared of damaging my pricey specs climbing.
 Trangia 06 Feb 2014
In reply to Flash from the past:

>

> How long does it take to get used to this type of lens ?

It took me about 2 weeks, so you should find everything clicking into place any day now.

It's a weird sensation at first though isn't it? A bit like being drunk.

bill briggs1 06 Feb 2014
In reply to Flash from the past:

I am fine with mine for every day use but cannot climb in them, I change to a single pair for climbing with the focus about right for hands and feet but not too sharp on long distance.
In reply to Flash from the past:
Never wore my varifocals specs when climbing -- I worked on the principle that it was better not to see where I was going - or where I'd come from.

however

my eye problem was at close range - so reading a guidebook was difficult particularly if the multipitch route I was on was not an obvious line. Made for some interesting variations.



My distance vision was fine - and still is - though I do need to wear specs for driving nowadays!
Post edited at 19:48
 BusyLizzie 07 Feb 2014
In reply to Flash from the past:

I have problems with this. The problem is not so much climbing as the walk in.

I am old-lady-ish on slippery paths at the best of times. With varifocals, on an uneven/rocky path I'm looking down through the reading bit of the lens, and the path distorts; if I move my head slightly the slope of whatever I'm about to tread on changes. grrr. I have tried using a distance-only pair but it doesn't feel right when climbing and means I can't read the guidebook.
 David Jones 07 Feb 2014
In reply to Flash from the past:

I gave up using variefocals for climbing. I found the lower area of lens (normally used for reading) completely out of focus for seeing the feet; the middle part blurred for placing gear at eye level, and difficulty using the upper part of the lens(normally used for distance) to see the route ahead, with the head is tilted back! Just use cheap distance specs,witha handy pair of readers for close range now.
 Mark Kemball 07 Feb 2014
In reply to Flash from the past:
I didn't take long to get used to varifocals (a couple of weeks or so). Slightly awkward when looking at footholds when climbing, but you soon get the hang of it. They are, however a complete pain if you need to do close work on (say) a light fitting - you are looking at something close to through the distant vision part!
 Martin W 07 Feb 2014
In reply to Flash from the past:

In my experience there are varifocals, and varifocals. I have the 'Elite' varifocal lenses from Specsavers and it took me less than one evening to get used to them at the climbing wall. My g/f bought the 'standard' lenses in her varifocals and simply can't wear them, even just around the house. The differences in the sizes of each focal length section, and the 'blend' between them, is vastly easier to get used to with the more expensive lenses.

I also use my varifocals for cycling, and under goggles for skiing. For sports I have a semi-wraparound titanium frame which is nice and light, with the legs adjusted to what the assistant called a "skullcrusher" shape - not nearly as painful as it sounds, but it keeps them secure on my face. I also use a neoprene glasses retainer for climbing, to avoid the risk of them dropping off when I'm searching up, down and around for holds.

I did experiment with multifocus contacts but, although I had no trouble getting them in, I couldn't for the life of me get the damn things out. A pity, because the sight correction seemed to work very well when I did have them in.
 Martin W 07 Feb 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:
> I didn't take long to get used to varifocals (a couple of weeks or so). They are, however a complete pain if you need to do close work on (say) a light fitting - you are looking at something close to through the distant vision part!

I keep a cheap pair of readers handy for that sort of work.
Post edited at 12:15
 foxwood 07 Feb 2014
In reply to Flash from the past:

I switched to contacts from varifocals last year - I had to keep leaning back a bit and really tip the head down to look through top of the lenses and see foot placement on small stuff. Made it awkward on anything challenging.

With contacts there is no risk of glasses coming off, dropping, being hit/scratched by rope/gear and they are also much better in the rain - no wipers needed Or in the sun - you don't end up looking like a panda.

Just carry a pair of cheapo reading glasses for the phone or guidebook if needed.

One-time contacts can be worn all day and cost about £1 - £1.50 a day - well worth it for the benefits.
 Jon Stewart 08 Feb 2014
In reply to foxwood:

If you pay a bit more you can get multifocal contacts so you can read the guidebook in them too (they don't work like varifocal specs with different portions of the lens/head positions btw). If you don't mind the lack of sharp focus in the intermediate/distance though, single vision disposables + ready readers is a good cheap option.
 BnB 08 Feb 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> If you pay a bit more you can get multifocal contacts so you can read the guidebook in them too (they don't work like varifocal specs with different portions of the lens/head positions btw). If you don't mind the lack of sharp focus in the intermediate/distance though, single vision disposables + ready readers is a good cheap option.

These are what I wear daily for work, reading, computer and play. A but fuzzy in the middle distance, but overall the best compromise by a mile.
 Rob Exile Ward 08 Feb 2014
In reply to BusyLizzie:

I'm like this - I have a great pair of varifocal sunnies which I love but I don't feel comfortable walking with them, on anything other than the most straightforward path - and I have tried. Coming down anything at all rough it is disconcerting as you start to look through the 'near' part of the lens and the path goes out of focus..

One thing about climbing is that you are usually in good light, which helps you see a bit better than indoors - I can *just about* read a guidebook at arms length! When I'm skiing I usually wear a bifocal contact lens in one eye, which gives my near vision just enough extra oomph to read a piste map without noticeably affecting my distance vision; but as I haven't learnt to take them in and out yet - my wife does it for me, she's an optician - I can't usually do this climbing. I'll make more of an effort this year, because I suspect that will be a good solution for me.
 Jon Stewart 08 Feb 2014
In reply to Rob Exile Ward:

If you're going to persevere with contacts (good idea IMO), but you might want different set-ups for skiing and climbing with the climbing lenses more near/intermediate biased?

Maybe correct your dominant eye for intermediate and have a multifocal in the other? You can probably try all kinds of combos if your prescription's straightforward and your wife can pocket a bunch of trial lenses from work?
 GridNorth 08 Feb 2014
In reply to Flash from the past:

My main problem is when I'm seconding in spectacles as the rope keeps trying to push them off. Last time I checked contact lenses were not suitable for my condition and only worked for distance so I had to wear reading glasses to read which normally I can do without. It didn't take me long to get used to vari foculs but I have to wear them because my distance vision starts to deteriorate just at the critical point of my being able to see my toes.
 HB1 08 Feb 2014
In reply to Flash from the past:

I might be wrong, but I do think that the shape and size of the glasses affects the ease of use with varifocals. I've had them for years now with old skool shaped lenses - 3.5cms top-to-bottom means that the vari-effect is spread over more of the lense. Never had a problem walking (don't wear for running) climbing, reading map/guidebook etc
 Jon Stewart 08 Feb 2014
In reply to GridNorth:

If you don't like wearing glasses climbing, there are probably some contacts that you'd get on with these days - the technology changes rapidly. If you explain to the optician exactly what you want to use them for, they should be able to find something (all multifocals do involve some degree of visual compromise though), even if it takes a few goes.

As you can probably tell, I am a big advocate of contact lenses (I don't make money out of selling them, yet). My glasses always get scratched when I wear them for climbing, and yes, when seconding they're always getting pushed off my face. Not being presbyopic (aka old), I don't know exactly how good vision is with multifocals, but a lot of people do get on with them. I reckon I'd find having to use reading specs for the guidebook pretty annoying.
 Jon Stewart 08 Feb 2014
In reply to HB1:

> I might be wrong, but I do think that the shape and size of the glasses affects the ease of use with varifocals. I've had them for years now with old skool shaped lenses - 3.5cms top-to-bottom means that the vari-effect is spread over more of the lense. Never had a problem walking (don't wear for running) climbing, reading map/guidebook etc

More than the shape of the frame, how much you spend on the lenses has a big effect. You can get cheap ones with a narrow area that works, or expensive ones where the 'spread' is much more sophisticated and optimised precisely according to your prescription and the fit of the frame on your face.

Personally though, I wouldn't buy a £500 pair of top-quality Zeiss varis and then wear them climbing!
 GridNorth 08 Feb 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I tried a pair of "trial" contact lenses but I didn't enjoy the experience of fitting them and somehow managed to lose one during the process. Might be worth while checking the latest as you suggest. My daughter has some that she can keep in for a month.
 John2 08 Feb 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I have a good pair of Hoya varifocals for normal use, and a £25 pair of long distance glasses attached by a cord round my neck for climbing. I get on fine with these.
 Jon Stewart 08 Feb 2014
In reply to GridNorth:

Just depends on your level of motivation. Getting them in and out isn't a difficult skill to learn, but it takes a little bit of practice. For some people, it's not worth the bother, other people find it really worthwhile for sports like climbing where being specs-free and having a range of focus that doesn't depend on looking a certain way through a lens is nicer.
 HB1 08 Feb 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:



> Personally though, I wouldn't buy a £500 pair of top-quality Zeiss varis and then wear them climbing. . .

. . . Zeiss lenses, Mykita frames, Horseshoe Quarry, calculated risk!

OP Alan Pierce 08 Feb 2014
In reply to Flash from the past:

I would like to thank everyone for the diferent opinions but after paying over 250 quid just for the lenses i have decided to get my old ones pout back in . its 3 weeks and its just not happening its a total distraction when i am trying to climb at my red point limit
 carl dawson 08 Feb 2014
In reply to John2:

Ditto.

In my experience, even good quality 'normal' varifocals are absolutely no use for precise footwork if you have to be tight in to the rock (and can only move eyeballs rather than the head, as one otherwise does with varifocals). No focus, no footwork. Stick to your old 'long distance' specs for climbing and adjust… at least you'll be able to see your feet. As for reading the guidebook, trust partner.
 John2 08 Feb 2014
In reply to Flash from the past:

I think you're overreacting. Varifocals are no good for climbing but are brilliant for everyday use. Get a cheap pair of distance glasses from this link - http://www.moneysavingexpert.com/deals/cheap-glasses-discounts .

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