This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week’s (359) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=577382
NOTE:- AJM added a link to last week’s thread, a training article written by Alex Barrows, it could be useful to some so here it is:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Who's doing the posts for the next few weeks:
16/2 - Eagle River
23/2 - mbh
02/3 – mbh
09/3 - ?
16/3 - ?
23/3 - ?
Summary of last week:
Joughton – Congratulations on the uni offer, ONE WEEK TILL CHORRO!
Si dH – Lots of training but not sharing details with us. He’s gone covert…..
AndrewW – Where are you climbing outside?? It’s been drenched for WEEKS around here.
Eagle River – That’ll teach you for not warming up.
Nick Russell – In my experience the falling practice takes time to affect confidence, it’s something to make a habit of so falling off becomes normal, not exceptional. Did you fit in that extra climbing session?
Mbh – Any longer runs in prep for BG? Are you going to have support for your attempt in May?
Stevemarkperry – Did you tick Drunk Enough?
Hms- Double update, have fun in Spain!
Exile – Any more wright loss? How are you finding the PE traverses?
Jamming Dodger – If you got out on the bikes this weekend I can’t imagine it was much fun?? WINDY
Maria85 – Hope you’ve cleared the lurgy by now? Get some training in this week?
Tyler – Currently in the Alps which may provide the rest your finger injury needs, but you’ll probably be hanging off a door frame instead.
Grubes – free plug for his charity bike ride: http://grubesblog.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/pedal-for-pounds-5-my-biggest-chal... Has cycling replaced climbing training for the time being?
Ali – Did you manage more than one climb this week? I’m relying on you being keen for some climbing on the weekend of Feb 28th??
Mattrm – DISH TUCKS MASTER! How are you finding the yoga? The more I do it the more I want to do it!
Nomics – Currently in Spain, refused to accept illness last weekend and trained both days!
Dandan82 – Getting into those anaerobic systems specific training sessions? Seems like you’re hitting the strength training pretty hard too, is that to make yourself more resilient to harder training?
Ally Smith – Well done on The Highlife, Get much AeroPower in this week?
Humperdink – Hope the cough has finally gone? Don’t suppose you managed to avoid the showers this week?
Just Tintin – PLANK MASTER! How is the new cottage working out for you?
Pork pie girl – Great to hear about your mum’s improvement, looking forward to some Stockport sessions with you.
Alun – Well done on the >100k ride. Did you manage another one?
Si Cox – Have you moved onto the V5’s yet?
Curious Yellow – More strong bouldering, V5’s indoors are no push over and could translate to V6 outdoors if you find the right problems for you (if you wanted to boulder outdoors??)
Luke Owens – The Boardroom sounds ace, do you feel like you’re making progress on the 7a?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week’s (359) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=577382
NOTE:- AJM added a link to last week’s thread, a training article written by Alex Barrows, it could be useful to some so here it is:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Who's doing the posts for the next few weeks:
16/2 - Eagle River
23/2 - mbh
02/3 – mbh
09/3 - ?
16/3 - ?
23/3 - ?
Summary of last week:
Joughton – Congratulations on the uni offer, ONE WEEK TILL CHORRO!
Si dH – Lots of training but not sharing details with us. He’s gone covert…..
AndrewW – Where are you climbing outside?? It’s been drenched for WEEKS around here.
Eagle River – That’ll teach you for not warming up.
Nick Russell – In my experience the falling practice takes time to affect confidence, it’s something to make a habit of so falling off becomes normal, not exceptional. Did you fit in that extra climbing session?
Mbh – Any longer runs in prep for BG? Are you going to have support for your attempt in May?
Stevemarkperry – Did you tick Drunk Enough?
Hms- Double update, have fun in Spain!
Exile – Any more wright loss? How are you finding the PE traverses?
Jamming Dodger – If you got out on the bikes this weekend I can’t imagine it was much fun?? WINDY
Maria85 – Hope you’ve cleared the lurgy by now? Get some training in this week?
Tyler – Currently in the Alps which may provide the rest your finger injury needs, but you’ll probably be hanging off a door frame instead.
Grubes – free plug for his charity bike ride: http://grubesblog.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/pedal-for-pounds-5-my-biggest-chal... Has cycling replaced climbing training for the time being?
Ali – Did you manage more than one climb this week? I’m relying on you being keen for some climbing on the weekend of Feb 28th??
Mattrm – DISH TUCKS MASTER! How are you finding the yoga? The more I do it the more I want to do it!
Nomics – Currently in Spain, refused to accept illness last weekend and trained both days!
Dandan82 – Getting into those anaerobic systems specific training sessions? Seems like you’re hitting the strength training pretty hard too, is that to make yourself more resilient to harder training?
Ally Smith – Well done on The Highlife, Get much AeroPower in this week?
Humperdink – Hope the cough has finally gone? Don’t suppose you managed to avoid the showers this week?
Just Tintin – PLANK MASTER! How is the new cottage working out for you?
Pork pie girl – Great to hear about your mum’s improvement, looking forward to some Stockport sessions with you.
Alun – Well done on the >100k ride. Did you manage another one?
Si Cox – Have you moved onto the V5’s yet?
Curious Yellow – More strong bouldering, V5’s indoors are no push over and could translate to V6 outdoors if you find the right problems for you (if you wanted to boulder outdoors??)
Luke Owens – The Boardroom sounds ace, do you feel like you’re making progress on the 7a?
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers for this - appreciated.
Been working on exhibition stuff, so it's been silly hours, bad diet and travelling abroad. A 22.5hr day on Monday was the icing on the cake. London for a ghoster shift in an hour and Dusseldorf on Tuesday will mean climbing has still got to take a back seat for a while.
Anyways - the last two weeks.
Before Holland, I managed to get in another V3 flash but unless I go on the steep boards I'm about worked out of problems at Pinnacle. There's only one V4 on the easier angled boards which is a bit crap really.
Jumped on a rope too... ha, utterly pooped by halfway on anything with a 6 in it. I know I've not been training PE but I was shocked by just how bad I was.
Wed - Boulder room. Tried hard but arms stuffed from the show and lack of sleep. Did some V3 repeats.
Thu - Shattered but tried for mileage, however couldn't see the moves on V1s FFS. Ended up on the campus rail, foot on and on the back three. Also tried middle two for the first time. Forearms mullered when I left.
Fri - Indoors sport! And enjoyed it! Vertical f5 x 3 laps, Steep f5 x4, steep 6b+ to halfway, comp wall 6a+ one sit, then to top but couldn't hold last hold. Arms gone by now. Then seconded a 6c on the comp wall to the third clip four times.
Didn't expect much on Fri - work was hard as loaded an artic trailer by hand in the afternoon but decided to sort some route stamina. Don't even boulder steep stuff but had a go on the comp wall and almost managed my first 6a+ clean. To be honest, it was easy, I just didn't have any arms for it. There's a 6b next to it but I'm avoiding looking at it as it is now down for an onsight after I'm back from Germany.
Got me a 6c project too. I can get to the 3rd clip cleanly, so I may as well lead the thing from now on. Still not sure about this working routes thing but I've been flashing V3s a fair bit this year, even a V4, so I should be able to do all the moves on this 6c. There's is one move that will be nails for my dodgy wrist but I managed it in isolation on Friday, so it's a goer but I'm paying for it in a world of pain this morning.
Loving the climbing at the moment, maybe that's due to making good progress at the moment in terms of efficiency but I think it's more that I have a plan in my head of what I want to do around September and October.
Mile End next Sunday will be the only chance I get to do anything I guess this next week.
Happy climbing!
Cheers for this - appreciated.
Been working on exhibition stuff, so it's been silly hours, bad diet and travelling abroad. A 22.5hr day on Monday was the icing on the cake. London for a ghoster shift in an hour and Dusseldorf on Tuesday will mean climbing has still got to take a back seat for a while.
Anyways - the last two weeks.
Before Holland, I managed to get in another V3 flash but unless I go on the steep boards I'm about worked out of problems at Pinnacle. There's only one V4 on the easier angled boards which is a bit crap really.
Jumped on a rope too... ha, utterly pooped by halfway on anything with a 6 in it. I know I've not been training PE but I was shocked by just how bad I was.
Wed - Boulder room. Tried hard but arms stuffed from the show and lack of sleep. Did some V3 repeats.
Thu - Shattered but tried for mileage, however couldn't see the moves on V1s FFS. Ended up on the campus rail, foot on and on the back three. Also tried middle two for the first time. Forearms mullered when I left.
Fri - Indoors sport! And enjoyed it! Vertical f5 x 3 laps, Steep f5 x4, steep 6b+ to halfway, comp wall 6a+ one sit, then to top but couldn't hold last hold. Arms gone by now. Then seconded a 6c on the comp wall to the third clip four times.
Didn't expect much on Fri - work was hard as loaded an artic trailer by hand in the afternoon but decided to sort some route stamina. Don't even boulder steep stuff but had a go on the comp wall and almost managed my first 6a+ clean. To be honest, it was easy, I just didn't have any arms for it. There's a 6b next to it but I'm avoiding looking at it as it is now down for an onsight after I'm back from Germany.
Got me a 6c project too. I can get to the 3rd clip cleanly, so I may as well lead the thing from now on. Still not sure about this working routes thing but I've been flashing V3s a fair bit this year, even a V4, so I should be able to do all the moves on this 6c. There's is one move that will be nails for my dodgy wrist but I managed it in isolation on Friday, so it's a goer but I'm paying for it in a world of pain this morning.
Loving the climbing at the moment, maybe that's due to making good progress at the moment in terms of efficiency but I think it's more that I have a plan in my head of what I want to do around September and October.
Mile End next Sunday will be the only chance I get to do anything I guess this next week.
Happy climbing!
In reply to Eagle River: Cheers Steve, can't wait!
Pretty average week for me...
Mon - AW Stockport. Warmed up on routes: 6a, 6c+, 7a+, then attempted the 7c. Fell high up, couldn't quite catch a crimp right. Then went and did a mini boulder comp, flashed all but two problems, got one second and the other third go. Later found out I won, woop! Finished off doing a 7a then doing five laps clean on the 7a+.
Tue - rest
Wed - Rockover. Warmed up bouldering, then flashed a few V5s, one V6, and got another second go. Spent a while working harder things before giving up! Then went and did lots of laps on the pumpy 6c circuit. Finished with core and pressups.
Thurs - rest, came home to find a bag of mammut prizes after that comp, which was nice!
Fri - lazy
Sat - arrived at MCC at 4.30, only to be kicked out at 6! So a bit of a short session. Warmed up on a 6a, then 6b+, 6c, 7b O/S. Tried the new 7c, very thin and techy, nearly flashed. Got it clean on a top rope then got it clean on lead just before the lights went out! Pleased as it was really crimpy, feels like something I wouldn't have managed a few months ago.
Sun - rest
Monday was a really good session, very happy with the comp and laps. Feeling in decent shape for Chorro now! Won't be posting next week, but I'll probably have an easy routes session tomorrow or Tuesday and then leave it at that.
Cheers, Jake
Pretty average week for me...
Mon - AW Stockport. Warmed up on routes: 6a, 6c+, 7a+, then attempted the 7c. Fell high up, couldn't quite catch a crimp right. Then went and did a mini boulder comp, flashed all but two problems, got one second and the other third go. Later found out I won, woop! Finished off doing a 7a then doing five laps clean on the 7a+.
Tue - rest
Wed - Rockover. Warmed up bouldering, then flashed a few V5s, one V6, and got another second go. Spent a while working harder things before giving up! Then went and did lots of laps on the pumpy 6c circuit. Finished with core and pressups.
Thurs - rest, came home to find a bag of mammut prizes after that comp, which was nice!
Fri - lazy
Sat - arrived at MCC at 4.30, only to be kicked out at 6! So a bit of a short session. Warmed up on a 6a, then 6b+, 6c, 7b O/S. Tried the new 7c, very thin and techy, nearly flashed. Got it clean on a top rope then got it clean on lead just before the lights went out! Pleased as it was really crimpy, feels like something I wouldn't have managed a few months ago.
Sun - rest
Monday was a really good session, very happy with the comp and laps. Feeling in decent shape for Chorro now! Won't be posting next week, but I'll probably have an easy routes session tomorrow or Tuesday and then leave it at that.
Cheers, Jake
In reply to Eagle River:
Aims: Raindogs (malham), The ashes (Kilnsey).
Mon: Indoor routes. Doubles session, largely failing but trying hard. Started the session quite easily given that I'd spasmed my back two days previously. Some new routes up that are a good intensity for end of session doubles.
Wed: Rockover for bouldering/campus/circuits. Some decent continuous (i.e. not cruxy) circuits up that'll be good for training that recovering on jugs stamina Ill need for The Ashes and more intense ones for power endurance training.
Fri: Yoga. Felt stiff and rubbish but I'd not done any since the previous friday
Sat: Indoor routes. Good session, ticked off the leading ladder "7a" (I think it's hard 7b) and straight after as the 2nd route of a set of doubles did a 7a. Pleased with that. Then ticked off an unpleasantly slopey/insecure 6c+ (hard 7a in my opinion). Rest of session spent failing but trying hard.
Sun: Yoga. Tried a power core hour at home which was pretty intense. Almost did all of it...
Aims: Raindogs (malham), The ashes (Kilnsey).
Mon: Indoor routes. Doubles session, largely failing but trying hard. Started the session quite easily given that I'd spasmed my back two days previously. Some new routes up that are a good intensity for end of session doubles.
Wed: Rockover for bouldering/campus/circuits. Some decent continuous (i.e. not cruxy) circuits up that'll be good for training that recovering on jugs stamina Ill need for The Ashes and more intense ones for power endurance training.
Fri: Yoga. Felt stiff and rubbish but I'd not done any since the previous friday
Sat: Indoor routes. Good session, ticked off the leading ladder "7a" (I think it's hard 7b) and straight after as the 2nd route of a set of doubles did a 7a. Pleased with that. Then ticked off an unpleasantly slopey/insecure 6c+ (hard 7a in my opinion). Rest of session spent failing but trying hard.
Sun: Yoga. Tried a power core hour at home which was pretty intense. Almost did all of it...
In reply to Eagle River:
Yeah, I've decided to not clip the chains on indoor routes now, so decent size falls are becoming pretty routine. I managed 3 climbing sessions, 2 swims, 2 runs and a core session this week, so pretty happy.
I'll take two of the March weeks.
16/2 - Eagle River
23/2 - mbh
02/3 – mbh
09/3 - Nick Russell
16/3 - Nick Russell
23/3 - ?
M - swimming (2.3km)
T - TCA
W - swimming (2.5km)
T - UCR
F - 9km run (4:35/km), core
S - UCR
S - 10km run with 6x(2:00 on/3:00 off) intervals, average pace 4:26/km
Oops, forgot a rest day... maybe Wednesday this coming week. It's supposed to be a light 'step back' week anyway so I'm not too concerned. No yoga because Monday's session had been moved to a really small, hot room. I could have fit in, but decided I had better ways to spend my time (and money). Intended to do a fingerboard session today, but was falling off on my warm-up hangs so quit that.
I was pretty pleased with climbing on Thursday. It wasn't a particularly directed session, because of an unfamiliar belayer and a beginner in the group (4 of us). Still managed to flash a 7a though! (@hms: the one you suggested, black and green in front of the tea hatch.) Despite somewhat higher grades climbed outdoors, that's actually my first indoor 7. I also had good attempts at another 7a, 2x6c+ and a 6c.
Today's run was good too. About 2 minutes in, it started to rain, then hail. Actually, part of me was kind of enjoying running the experience of a strong headwind and heavy hail (the rest of me was questioning that part's sanity). Despite the weather, the interval work felt good, and my average pace was substantially faster than my norm, which was a pleasant surprise. Turns out my normal pace is approximately what I was running in the recovery sections, which suggests that most of the time I could be going a bit faster.
Short term goals (February)
Increase training volume again during the next 3-week block (17/02-09/03) EDIT: I think increase in volume is missing the point. I already did 8 sessions this week. Now to maintain something around that and increase the quality.
One winter climbing weekend. If I'm going to do this in Feb, It'll have to be this coming weekend.
At least 2 days climbing outdoors. Still hoping for the weather to break for long enough.
Medium term goals (March)
Some winter climbing. As above, next weekend is a possibility time-wise.
Stick to the training plan that I finalise this month. 3/12 weeks down!
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Current best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Total to date: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 61/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in e.g. 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr. Coach informs me there are plenty of galas in March/April and now I'm actually on the mailing list I should hear about them!
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
> Nick Russell – In my experience the falling practice takes time to affect confidence, it’s something to make a habit of so falling off becomes normal, not exceptional. Did you fit in that extra climbing session?
Yeah, I've decided to not clip the chains on indoor routes now, so decent size falls are becoming pretty routine. I managed 3 climbing sessions, 2 swims, 2 runs and a core session this week, so pretty happy.
I'll take two of the March weeks.
16/2 - Eagle River
23/2 - mbh
02/3 – mbh
09/3 - Nick Russell
16/3 - Nick Russell
23/3 - ?
M - swimming (2.3km)
T - TCA
W - swimming (2.5km)
T - UCR
F - 9km run (4:35/km), core
S - UCR
S - 10km run with 6x(2:00 on/3:00 off) intervals, average pace 4:26/km
Oops, forgot a rest day... maybe Wednesday this coming week. It's supposed to be a light 'step back' week anyway so I'm not too concerned. No yoga because Monday's session had been moved to a really small, hot room. I could have fit in, but decided I had better ways to spend my time (and money). Intended to do a fingerboard session today, but was falling off on my warm-up hangs so quit that.
I was pretty pleased with climbing on Thursday. It wasn't a particularly directed session, because of an unfamiliar belayer and a beginner in the group (4 of us). Still managed to flash a 7a though! (@hms: the one you suggested, black and green in front of the tea hatch.) Despite somewhat higher grades climbed outdoors, that's actually my first indoor 7. I also had good attempts at another 7a, 2x6c+ and a 6c.
Today's run was good too. About 2 minutes in, it started to rain, then hail. Actually, part of me was kind of enjoying running the experience of a strong headwind and heavy hail (the rest of me was questioning that part's sanity). Despite the weather, the interval work felt good, and my average pace was substantially faster than my norm, which was a pleasant surprise. Turns out my normal pace is approximately what I was running in the recovery sections, which suggests that most of the time I could be going a bit faster.
Short term goals (February)
Increase training volume again during the next 3-week block (17/02-09/03) EDIT: I think increase in volume is missing the point. I already did 8 sessions this week. Now to maintain something around that and increase the quality.
One winter climbing weekend. If I'm going to do this in Feb, It'll have to be this coming weekend.
At least 2 days climbing outdoors. Still hoping for the weather to break for long enough.
Medium term goals (March)
Some winter climbing. As above, next weekend is a possibility time-wise.
Stick to the training plan that I finalise this month. 3/12 weeks down!
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Current best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Total to date: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 61/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in e.g. 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr. Coach informs me there are plenty of galas in March/April and now I'm actually on the mailing list I should hear about them!
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
In reply to Eagle River:
Where am I climbing outside? Cyprus. It's not all good. It was a bit too hot today TBH. Ha ha.
M - F: ill (cont. from last week).
S - 30 mins run.
S - Climbing outside; laps on 6a+; too hot (circa 24 celsius - and climbing in the sun); fingerboard session. Feeling a bit better. Hope it continues next week.
Where am I climbing outside? Cyprus. It's not all good. It was a bit too hot today TBH. Ha ha.
M - F: ill (cont. from last week).
S - 30 mins run.
S - Climbing outside; laps on 6a+; too hot (circa 24 celsius - and climbing in the sun); fingerboard session. Feeling a bit better. Hope it continues next week.
Post edited at 17:43
In reply to Nick Russell:
Nice one
Thanks for that.
> Yeah, I've decided to not clip the chains on indoor routes now, so decent size falls are becoming pretty routine. I managed 3 climbing sessions, 2 swims, 2 runs and a core session this week, so pretty happy.
Nice one
> I'll take two of the March weeks.
> 16/2 - Eagle River
> 23/2 - mbh
> 02/3 – mbh
> 09/3 - Nick Russell
> 16/3 - Nick Russell
> 23/3 - ?
> 23/2 - mbh
> 02/3 – mbh
> 09/3 - Nick Russell
> 16/3 - Nick Russell
> 23/3 - ?
Thanks for that.
Post edited at 17:45
First post here..
Fairly heavy week for a change.
3.5km run Monday
Bouldering session Tuesday
Rest day Wednesday
3.5km run and TRX chest and shoulder session Thursday
Climbing Friday
Bouldering Saturday
Rest day today
Fairly heavy week for a change.
3.5km run Monday
Bouldering session Tuesday
Rest day Wednesday
3.5km run and TRX chest and shoulder session Thursday
Climbing Friday
Bouldering Saturday
Rest day today
In reply to Eagle River:
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (no change)
M - 500 dish tucks
T - 1.5 hrs indoor routes
W - 500 dish tucks
T - Fingerboarding
F - 600 dish tucks
S - 2.5 hr indoor routes
S - Rest
Good week. Did well on Saturday, got a bunch of 6a+es and made good progress on a 6b on the autobelay. I think the 6b on the autobelay will go with a couple more sessions on it. I got quite a way up it as well, when quite tired. So that bodes well. There's a 5+ on it as well, so I'll use that to get 1/2 up to learn the top part. 6c doesn't feel far away either, but I've got to start trying some of them first. Only slight downside is that my elbows are hurting a little. So I'm going to rest them next week. Only one climb I think for next week. And no fingerboard. Also got to try harder on the diet.
3 core (dish tucks!) - 3 - yes
1 yoga - 1 - no
2 climbs - 2 - yes
1 finger board - 1 - yes
Goals for next week:
3 core
2 yoga
1 climb
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (no change)
M - 500 dish tucks
T - 1.5 hrs indoor routes
W - 500 dish tucks
T - Fingerboarding
F - 600 dish tucks
S - 2.5 hr indoor routes
S - Rest
Good week. Did well on Saturday, got a bunch of 6a+es and made good progress on a 6b on the autobelay. I think the 6b on the autobelay will go with a couple more sessions on it. I got quite a way up it as well, when quite tired. So that bodes well. There's a 5+ on it as well, so I'll use that to get 1/2 up to learn the top part. 6c doesn't feel far away either, but I've got to start trying some of them first. Only slight downside is that my elbows are hurting a little. So I'm going to rest them next week. Only one climb I think for next week. And no fingerboard. Also got to try harder on the diet.
3 core (dish tucks!) - 3 - yes
1 yoga - 1 - no
2 climbs - 2 - yes
1 finger board - 1 - yes
Goals for next week:
3 core
2 yoga
1 climb
In reply to Eagle River:
Missed it last week just added.. 90 miles again.. happy with that, averaged 90 miles over last 5 weeks now.
m: steady 8 on road around rostock
t: 17.17 miles lunch: 7,5 river loop 7:20 pace.. pm: Villages run 9.35 + 0.3 cool down 6:09 pace felt good
w; 13 miles, lunch slow 4 on trails rostock 9:30 pace. Eve: 6.13 roads rostock 8 min pace
t: 13.7 miles at 6:52 pace on roads
f: 10 miles around the river out and back 7:44 pace.. fly to scotland..
s: 17.34 miles. am: 10k on the road. Pm: 11.1 mile drumtocthy forest trails 7:56 pace lots of ascent
s: 12.80 mile road run shorter drumtochty loop 7:30 ish pace
Planning next seasons racing now. Plan is to emigrate to the US in a few weeks but few visa issues yet. But been invited to a 50 mile trail race, free entry, accomodation, plus great prize purse which I'd be eligible for so thats my main focus now.. maybe 100k in April.. a marathon some time in May then the 50 in June..
Missed it last week just added.. 90 miles again.. happy with that, averaged 90 miles over last 5 weeks now.
m: steady 8 on road around rostock
t: 17.17 miles lunch: 7,5 river loop 7:20 pace.. pm: Villages run 9.35 + 0.3 cool down 6:09 pace felt good
w; 13 miles, lunch slow 4 on trails rostock 9:30 pace. Eve: 6.13 roads rostock 8 min pace
t: 13.7 miles at 6:52 pace on roads
f: 10 miles around the river out and back 7:44 pace.. fly to scotland..
s: 17.34 miles. am: 10k on the road. Pm: 11.1 mile drumtocthy forest trails 7:56 pace lots of ascent
s: 12.80 mile road run shorter drumtochty loop 7:30 ish pace
Planning next seasons racing now. Plan is to emigrate to the US in a few weeks but few visa issues yet. But been invited to a 50 mile trail race, free entry, accomodation, plus great prize purse which I'd be eligible for so thats my main focus now.. maybe 100k in April.. a marathon some time in May then the 50 in June..
In reply to Eagle River:
cheers for doing FC ER
monday- interval training on bike in gym, weights, 180 pull ups .. no extra weight, core and stretch
tuesday- rest (crap sleep the night before)
wednesday- long lunch bouldering at rochdale... no idea about grade but got on as much as i could .. didn't work anything. last twenty mins on systems board.. quite like. wrist twinging a tad on pockets and undercuts
wednesday pm.. intervals on bike in gym, core then stretch
thursday- kendal wall.. feeling good.. 6c+ to 7b.. longer links on routes i've struggled on.. plenty of falls .. all on steep long wall. laps went well. bike for 45 mins upstairs in gym afterwards
friday- gym.. intervals on bike (better pace) weights, 180 pull ups (no extra weight core and stretch
saturday- gym - intervals on bike (even better pace) bouldering at the uni.. shut down on steep v6s.. onsighted everything up to v4.. cocked up a v5 onsight.. didn't go bonkers as don't want injury for Spain. mid night ab workout (freak)
sunday- kendal wall.. 6c+ to 7b.. went ok but got tired in the aftternoon and worked out that i wasn't resting enough between goes on the long wall.. i have no self discipline. good workout on the bike in gym at the wall afterwards
m
not sure what to do about climbing between now and thursday.. might do a route session at the uni on tuesday night or something.. just to stay familiar with movement.
PPG
cheers for doing FC ER
monday- interval training on bike in gym, weights, 180 pull ups .. no extra weight, core and stretch
tuesday- rest (crap sleep the night before)
wednesday- long lunch bouldering at rochdale... no idea about grade but got on as much as i could .. didn't work anything. last twenty mins on systems board.. quite like. wrist twinging a tad on pockets and undercuts
wednesday pm.. intervals on bike in gym, core then stretch
thursday- kendal wall.. feeling good.. 6c+ to 7b.. longer links on routes i've struggled on.. plenty of falls .. all on steep long wall. laps went well. bike for 45 mins upstairs in gym afterwards
friday- gym.. intervals on bike (better pace) weights, 180 pull ups (no extra weight core and stretch
saturday- gym - intervals on bike (even better pace) bouldering at the uni.. shut down on steep v6s.. onsighted everything up to v4.. cocked up a v5 onsight.. didn't go bonkers as don't want injury for Spain. mid night ab workout (freak)
sunday- kendal wall.. 6c+ to 7b.. went ok but got tired in the aftternoon and worked out that i wasn't resting enough between goes on the long wall.. i have no self discipline. good workout on the bike in gym at the wall afterwards
m
not sure what to do about climbing between now and thursday.. might do a route session at the uni on tuesday night or something.. just to stay familiar with movement.
PPG
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks for doing ER
Re PE - the traverses I'm working on are actually 22m long, would that strictly speaking make them PE or E?
Aims for the year:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
M: am: 1hr PE / E traverses. pm: 50min fell run, 35min antagonistic weights and core
T: pm: 40min road run
W: am: 1hr PE / E traverses at wall - working white R - L, (6c+ wall grade, prob 7a+?)
T: 1hr 40min PE / E traverses, got white R - L.
F: 50min dry tooling - best session yet, keeping winter mojo going for when the weather sorts itself out
S: Rest
S: am: 1hr 40min P/PE traverses at wall - working white L - R, 7a+/7b? pm: 1hr easy bouldering at Kendal Wall with my 9yr old before belaying him on a few routes. Good recovery session.
Weight this morning 11st 12lb, same as last week but can do my belt up another notch - hoping this very non scientific means of measurement means less fat and more muscle.
Good week all in all.
Thanks for doing ER
Re PE - the traverses I'm working on are actually 22m long, would that strictly speaking make them PE or E?
Aims for the year:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
M: am: 1hr PE / E traverses. pm: 50min fell run, 35min antagonistic weights and core
T: pm: 40min road run
W: am: 1hr PE / E traverses at wall - working white R - L, (6c+ wall grade, prob 7a+?)
T: 1hr 40min PE / E traverses, got white R - L.
F: 50min dry tooling - best session yet, keeping winter mojo going for when the weather sorts itself out
S: Rest
S: am: 1hr 40min P/PE traverses at wall - working white L - R, 7a+/7b? pm: 1hr easy bouldering at Kendal Wall with my 9yr old before belaying him on a few routes. Good recovery session.
Weight this morning 11st 12lb, same as last week but can do my belt up another notch - hoping this very non scientific means of measurement means less fat and more muscle.
Good week all in all.
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks for doing this ER,
I didn't have a good week. I only went out three times and covered only 35 miles, which is well short of the 50-55 mile target I have set myself for the whole of this year.
I did
M - 5.8 miles hill reps
T - F - nothing!
S - 10 miles, 7:39 ish pace, I think, including at least one under 7:00 pace.
S- 19.3 miles, inc 500 m ascent, slowly (8:35 ish pace?) but more or less continuously. In sun and hail.
So on the positive side I finally did some hills reps, and I ran further in the last run than I have for some time, and managed still to be running by the end.
About 1160 m ascent all told.
The idea of a BG seems surreal (66 miles!) at the moment, but I have to remember that there are 24 hours to do it in, and the nineteen odd I managed today were done in under three. I don't have any support planned, apart from my wife at the crossings, if she remains willing(x).That being the case, and my opportunities to recce it being limited (I have done L1, L2 and half of L5, but nothing at all of L3 and L4)it could well be that my attempt in May turns out to be a recce, and that I give it another go in the summer. Hope I can do it in May, however. At least that time I will know where the Moot Hall is, unlike the last time.
That will need a consistent high mileage from me from now on, if only to help my confidence, with some long runs and lots of ascent thrown in. I like the idea of working on my speed as I have been doing and getting some good times for the classic (10k, HM FM etc) distances, but perhaps that is less important for me right now if my target is really the BG. I need to be able to keep going for 24 hours at less than 3 miles an hour over some hilly ground. That will be as tough a mental challenge as it is a physical one.
Jim Mann, who recently bagged the 'winter' BG record had done 1500 miles in the 12 weeks before he went for it, including nine days in the Alps during which he did 30 miles and 2400 m per day. OMG! I can't do that, but if I did 60 miles pw from now on, I'd be in a better place than if I repeated weeks like the last one.
Thanks for doing this ER,
I didn't have a good week. I only went out three times and covered only 35 miles, which is well short of the 50-55 mile target I have set myself for the whole of this year.
I did
M - 5.8 miles hill reps
T - F - nothing!
S - 10 miles, 7:39 ish pace, I think, including at least one under 7:00 pace.
S- 19.3 miles, inc 500 m ascent, slowly (8:35 ish pace?) but more or less continuously. In sun and hail.
So on the positive side I finally did some hills reps, and I ran further in the last run than I have for some time, and managed still to be running by the end.
About 1160 m ascent all told.
The idea of a BG seems surreal (66 miles!) at the moment, but I have to remember that there are 24 hours to do it in, and the nineteen odd I managed today were done in under three. I don't have any support planned, apart from my wife at the crossings, if she remains willing(x).That being the case, and my opportunities to recce it being limited (I have done L1, L2 and half of L5, but nothing at all of L3 and L4)it could well be that my attempt in May turns out to be a recce, and that I give it another go in the summer. Hope I can do it in May, however. At least that time I will know where the Moot Hall is, unlike the last time.
That will need a consistent high mileage from me from now on, if only to help my confidence, with some long runs and lots of ascent thrown in. I like the idea of working on my speed as I have been doing and getting some good times for the classic (10k, HM FM etc) distances, but perhaps that is less important for me right now if my target is really the BG. I need to be able to keep going for 24 hours at less than 3 miles an hour over some hilly ground. That will be as tough a mental challenge as it is a physical one.
Jim Mann, who recently bagged the 'winter' BG record had done 1500 miles in the 12 weeks before he went for it, including nine days in the Alps during which he did 30 miles and 2400 m per day. OMG! I can't do that, but if I did 60 miles pw from now on, I'd be in a better place than if I repeated weeks like the last one.
In reply to pork pie girl: 180 pull-ups twice in one week? Mad...
I really, really rate system boards, if it's a good one! I find it's a really good way of working key weaknesses as you can tailor your own problem, and then work it equally on both arms (I'm assuming its symmetrical?). For example I had a bit problem with cross-through moves, as well as contact strength on big moves off small holds. A few systems board sessions and I was really in-tune with the kind of move. They are quite specific though, and at first I was too weak to really use it properly (though I'm not sure you'll have that problem).
Oh and lastly, it's really improved my body tension, so I'm cutting loose a lot less than I used to...
So yeah I'd recommend it, have fun getting strong!
I really, really rate system boards, if it's a good one! I find it's a really good way of working key weaknesses as you can tailor your own problem, and then work it equally on both arms (I'm assuming its symmetrical?). For example I had a bit problem with cross-through moves, as well as contact strength on big moves off small holds. A few systems board sessions and I was really in-tune with the kind of move. They are quite specific though, and at first I was too weak to really use it properly (though I'm not sure you'll have that problem).
Oh and lastly, it's really improved my body tension, so I'm cutting loose a lot less than I used to...
So yeah I'd recommend it, have fun getting strong!
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers for doing the thread ER... not so much into bouldering outside but aware that a max boulder level of V4/V5 is going to become a limiting factor on sport routes, at least in the uk. Maybe it would do me good to do more bouldering trips?
Anyway, this week:
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Short campus. Boulder, ticked another V5 - 4 down.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Boulder. Bit rubbish, work stress taking its toll.
Fri - Ditto.
Sat - Routes. 19 pitches. Did a warmdown and felt notably less trashed than I often do after a tough session. Hmmm.
Sun - Went to the wall, did some serious tea drinking, very little climbing...
Weight hovering just above 63kg ie about half a kg down on last week.
Cheers for doing the thread ER... not so much into bouldering outside but aware that a max boulder level of V4/V5 is going to become a limiting factor on sport routes, at least in the uk. Maybe it would do me good to do more bouldering trips?
Anyway, this week:
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Short campus. Boulder, ticked another V5 - 4 down.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Boulder. Bit rubbish, work stress taking its toll.
Fri - Ditto.
Sat - Routes. 19 pitches. Did a warmdown and felt notably less trashed than I often do after a tough session. Hmmm.
Sun - Went to the wall, did some serious tea drinking, very little climbing...
Weight hovering just above 63kg ie about half a kg down on last week.
In reply to pork pie girl:
They seem like a really good idea to make the most use of a small wall. If I had the space to build a wall, I'd build one.
BTW, thanks for posting the stats ER.
And welcome spud. Any goals?
They seem like a really good idea to make the most use of a small wall. If I had the space to build a wall, I'd build one.
BTW, thanks for posting the stats ER.
And welcome spud. Any goals?
Post edited at 21:21
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers - I wish the cough had gone but its hanging on in there!
Goals: STG (Feb/Mar) - Finish in top 3 overall in XC league. Beat last years position in the National XC Champs. Represent county at the Inter-counties XC
MTG (April-Aug) - Make the A team for the 12-Stage road relays. Improve my track PB's (sub-2 800, sub-4 1500, sub-15 5K)
LTG (end of 2014) - Sub-31 10K, Run a half
M: am run to work 2Mile pm, run home 7/8Mile in 51:52
Tu: am run to work 2Mile pm, run home 2Mile - knackered, picked up a core sore and had a huge attack of the CBA's on the way home!
W: am, run to work 4Mile in 29:48 pm, run home then fartlek including 10x 2min hard off 1 min easy 9/10mile in total. Felt better
Th: am right heel was sore, pm 9M steady in 59:27
F: am run to work 2Mile, pm run home 2Mile + strides
Sa: XC league match. Final round of the season and needed to finish high to get in top 3 overall. Ran better than a couple of weeks ago and came 4th. 28:02 for the 5Mile course. 10Mile overall after running about watching my gf race. Sadly my heel was really sore afterwards.
Su: Tried to run but heel was v sore and making me limp so stopped and rested!
52Mile total. Finished 3rd Overall in XC league (tick!) but annoyed about my heel. Going to cross train for a few days and then see how it is.
> Humperdink – Hope the cough has finally gone? Don’t suppose you managed to avoid the showers this week?
Cheers - I wish the cough had gone but its hanging on in there!
Goals: STG (Feb/Mar) - Finish in top 3 overall in XC league. Beat last years position in the National XC Champs. Represent county at the Inter-counties XC
MTG (April-Aug) - Make the A team for the 12-Stage road relays. Improve my track PB's (sub-2 800, sub-4 1500, sub-15 5K)
LTG (end of 2014) - Sub-31 10K, Run a half
M: am run to work 2Mile pm, run home 7/8Mile in 51:52
Tu: am run to work 2Mile pm, run home 2Mile - knackered, picked up a core sore and had a huge attack of the CBA's on the way home!
W: am, run to work 4Mile in 29:48 pm, run home then fartlek including 10x 2min hard off 1 min easy 9/10mile in total. Felt better
Th: am right heel was sore, pm 9M steady in 59:27
F: am run to work 2Mile, pm run home 2Mile + strides
Sa: XC league match. Final round of the season and needed to finish high to get in top 3 overall. Ran better than a couple of weeks ago and came 4th. 28:02 for the 5Mile course. 10Mile overall after running about watching my gf race. Sadly my heel was really sore afterwards.
Su: Tried to run but heel was v sore and making me limp so stopped and rested!
52Mile total. Finished 3rd Overall in XC league (tick!) but annoyed about my heel. Going to cross train for a few days and then see how it is.
In reply to pork pie girl:
Never heard of this before. Just did a bit of a search and looked at the stuff on the moon web-site about it and am now psyched to try it out on my own board. Only problem is working out which of my many weaknesses to work on first! Thanks for highlighting this.
> what are folks opinions about system boards?
Never heard of this before. Just did a bit of a search and looked at the stuff on the moon web-site about it and am now psyched to try it out on my own board. Only problem is working out which of my many weaknesses to work on first! Thanks for highlighting this.
In reply to Eagle River:
NOpe still thinking about climbing training but having issues with climbing at minute. House mate has a finger injury so not climbing as much as he would like. I cant find belayers. So I am not getting any route fitness at the moment. Rumour has it my local wall has a new circuit board so will get on that.
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
Lose 8kg
MTG (June 2014):
complete my bike ride
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
???
This week's goals:
>5 bike rides. all circa 5k+ - fail 4
1x 10mile+ ride - Fail
M: Rest
T: Cycled 8.7k 68m ascent. Done in two 4.3k sections going to a meeting with the organisers of the bike ride.
W: Rest
T: Cycled 10.5k 122m ascent.
Cycled 4.3k to pub and back.
F: Rest
S: cycled 6km 61m ascent. Windy as f*ck.
S: Depot two hours session. Flashed most of the blues to warm up but not many problems completed after that as I was working problems at my limit all session.
Next week Goals:
All rides 5k+
Learn to cylce up a hill.
Circuits or ropes
2x10mile+ bike rides.
Por week diet and training wise. Really struggled to get out on the bike at the weekend as the weather was shocking.
> Grubes – free plug for his charity bike ride: http://grubesblog.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/pedal-for-pounds-5-my-biggest-chal... Has cycling replaced climbing training for the time being?
NOpe still thinking about climbing training but having issues with climbing at minute. House mate has a finger injury so not climbing as much as he would like. I cant find belayers. So I am not getting any route fitness at the moment. Rumour has it my local wall has a new circuit board so will get on that.
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
Lose 8kg
MTG (June 2014):
complete my bike ride
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
???
This week's goals:
>5 bike rides. all circa 5k+ - fail 4
1x 10mile+ ride - Fail
M: Rest
T: Cycled 8.7k 68m ascent. Done in two 4.3k sections going to a meeting with the organisers of the bike ride.
W: Rest
T: Cycled 10.5k 122m ascent.
Cycled 4.3k to pub and back.
F: Rest
S: cycled 6km 61m ascent. Windy as f*ck.
S: Depot two hours session. Flashed most of the blues to warm up but not many problems completed after that as I was working problems at my limit all session.
Next week Goals:
All rides 5k+
Learn to cylce up a hill.
Circuits or ropes
2x10mile+ bike rides.
Por week diet and training wise. Really struggled to get out on the bike at the weekend as the weather was shocking.
In reply to Eagle River:
Many thanks for the summary, Eagle River.
STG:
Boulder Font 7A, Redpoint sport 7b
Regularly ride >100km on road bike.
Lose weight to under 70kg
MTG:
Boulder 7B, Redpoint 7c
Ride Etape Eryri (165km) in Snowdonia in June.
Lose weight to under 67kg
LTG:
Redpoint 8a.
M - Rest
T - Lunchtime bouldering at wall. Strapped finger up good and didn't feel anything wrong, so ended up doing a full session.
W - Rest
T - Lunchtime bouldering at wall. Ticked a long term problem - I couldn't even hang the crux holds a month ago. Finger felt fine.
F - Rest
S - Rain rain rain (yes, it rains in Spain too)
S - 117km on the road bike, with around 1000m of vertical ascent. Averaged 25kph, but for the final 30km was swept up by a chain gang doing a steady 35kph, which helped raise the average considerably!
Weight is down to 72kg which I am very pleased about. Cycling fitness is progressing nicely and I think I am on track for the 165km Etape Eryri in June. Hopefully next weekend I can get out proper bouldering for a couple of hours and tick my 7A project.
Many thanks for the summary, Eagle River.
STG:
Boulder Font 7A, Redpoint sport 7b
Regularly ride >100km on road bike.
Lose weight to under 70kg
MTG:
Boulder 7B, Redpoint 7c
Ride Etape Eryri (165km) in Snowdonia in June.
Lose weight to under 67kg
LTG:
Redpoint 8a.
M - Rest
T - Lunchtime bouldering at wall. Strapped finger up good and didn't feel anything wrong, so ended up doing a full session.
W - Rest
T - Lunchtime bouldering at wall. Ticked a long term problem - I couldn't even hang the crux holds a month ago. Finger felt fine.
F - Rest
S - Rain rain rain (yes, it rains in Spain too)
S - 117km on the road bike, with around 1000m of vertical ascent. Averaged 25kph, but for the final 30km was swept up by a chain gang doing a steady 35kph, which helped raise the average considerably!
Weight is down to 72kg which I am very pleased about. Cycling fitness is progressing nicely and I think I am on track for the 165km Etape Eryri in June. Hopefully next weekend I can get out proper bouldering for a couple of hours and tick my 7A project.
In reply to grubes:
You need to get out as much as possible, even in the sh*tty weather. You never know - the actual ride might be into a headwind the whole way...
> Por week diet and training wise. Really struggled to get out on the bike at the weekend as the weather was shocking.
You need to get out as much as possible, even in the sh*tty weather. You never know - the actual ride might be into a headwind the whole way...
In reply to Ally Smith:
Don't say that ally ...
Your right big ride planned for tonight with a mate to make up for last week. At least most of the ride (first 2½ days) are flattish on my big ride.
I gave up early on satuday when I rode past a building and almost got blown off my bike in front of a car.
Don't say that ally ...
Your right big ride planned for tonight with a mate to make up for last week. At least most of the ride (first 2½ days) are flattish on my big ride.
I gave up early on satuday when I rode past a building and almost got blown off my bike in front of a car.
In reply to Eagle River:
Yep – swung it round to training aero-power this week, with some good results…
LTG (Sept 2014): Do some adventurous cycle touring and complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
L-MTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, T-1 Full Equip, or Humildes pas casa at Oliana?
MTG (By end Feb 2014):
Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
Hatch Life High, 8A – TICK!
Lou Ferrino sans pocket, 8A
Keep working on flexibility – LTG: try and get back to being able to do the splits!
STG (The coming week)
- Drop a bit of weight – crept up this week; was >77kg mid week; 76.5kg and 6.8% BF this morning.
- Get in the groove with aero-power training – embrace the pump.
- Get familiar with an Oliana project – decide between T-1 Full Equip, Fish Eye and Humildes pas Casa.
The week just gone:
M - Campus session on new board in spare room. Footless deep lock training. Then foot-on aero-power; much more intense than previous set-up. Max effort ~ 2min then tapered, thrice, then core. 3min plank fairly easy. 3x30 dish-tucks. 3x20 wide press-ups.
T - Nowt – Stretch.
W - Fingerboard 3. 2 handed + 5kg on smallest edge of BM2k. Then max hangs on medium campus rung. 44 & 56s. 3x3 off-set one-armers on a bar. Tip for others – a daisy chain makes a comfortable and easily repeatable off-set grip, then core. 3min 30s plank more of an effort!
T - Lamplight Cave session. Bit tired from previous session and new seepage coming through. 4x An-cap laps on Dust-kick high, Cave life short & LWH (as far as heel hook shake out) to replicate feeling of completing these whilst knackered – i.e. good training for Hatch Life High…
F - Nowt. Stretching. Beer, malt and late night movie – I’d already written off the weekend due to shocking forecast...
S - Back in the cave. Great team psyche. Warmed up doing bits of Hatch Life, got the thermals off, got the knee-pad on and set off. For the 3rd time ever I got through Hatch Life and had to convince myself to go high instead of low! Rest of it went on a blur – so glad of the familiarity laps on Wednesday. Chuffed – first 8A, first 8b/+. Flailed on The Wire afterwards then went to the box and did some 7A stuff.
S - 1hr-ish on the road bike at a leisurely pace – really sore and knackered from cave session. Then what should have been light aero-cap on the racecourse walls felt heinous. Hoping I don’t get this pumped in Spain!
> Ally Smith – Well done on The Highlife, Get much AeroPower in this week?
Yep – swung it round to training aero-power this week, with some good results…
LTG (Sept 2014): Do some adventurous cycle touring and complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
L-MTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, T-1 Full Equip, or Humildes pas casa at Oliana?
MTG (By end Feb 2014):
Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
Hatch Life High, 8A – TICK!
Lou Ferrino sans pocket, 8A
Keep working on flexibility – LTG: try and get back to being able to do the splits!
STG (The coming week)
- Drop a bit of weight – crept up this week; was >77kg mid week; 76.5kg and 6.8% BF this morning.
- Get in the groove with aero-power training – embrace the pump.
- Get familiar with an Oliana project – decide between T-1 Full Equip, Fish Eye and Humildes pas Casa.
The week just gone:
M - Campus session on new board in spare room. Footless deep lock training. Then foot-on aero-power; much more intense than previous set-up. Max effort ~ 2min then tapered, thrice, then core. 3min plank fairly easy. 3x30 dish-tucks. 3x20 wide press-ups.
T - Nowt – Stretch.
W - Fingerboard 3. 2 handed + 5kg on smallest edge of BM2k. Then max hangs on medium campus rung. 44 & 56s. 3x3 off-set one-armers on a bar. Tip for others – a daisy chain makes a comfortable and easily repeatable off-set grip, then core. 3min 30s plank more of an effort!
T - Lamplight Cave session. Bit tired from previous session and new seepage coming through. 4x An-cap laps on Dust-kick high, Cave life short & LWH (as far as heel hook shake out) to replicate feeling of completing these whilst knackered – i.e. good training for Hatch Life High…
F - Nowt. Stretching. Beer, malt and late night movie – I’d already written off the weekend due to shocking forecast...
S - Back in the cave. Great team psyche. Warmed up doing bits of Hatch Life, got the thermals off, got the knee-pad on and set off. For the 3rd time ever I got through Hatch Life and had to convince myself to go high instead of low! Rest of it went on a blur – so glad of the familiarity laps on Wednesday. Chuffed – first 8A, first 8b/+. Flailed on The Wire afterwards then went to the box and did some 7A stuff.
S - 1hr-ish on the road bike at a leisurely pace – really sore and knackered from cave session. Then what should have been light aero-cap on the racecourse walls felt heinous. Hoping I don’t get this pumped in Spain!
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers ER.
Totally forgot to post last week. Average week. Couple of climbing sessions where I felt I was coming back to form.Working a v6 saw me tweak my left ring finger at the bottom. First time ever I thought about it and stopped Climbing anything hard. Did some foot on campussing to finish instead. Glad i stopped as it is quite sore still. My idea of getting on crimpy routes to target my weaknesses may have to be postponed. Also had an average doubles session.
First proper bike ride was the big milestone. 18 miles in an hour and a half. 300m of ascent, felt like a lot more. I totally bonked out at the end. Went out on an empty stomach. Won't do that again ! Need to get out as much as possible but like Grubes I used the weather as an excuse.
Last week:
M - campus board session after work. 5 sets on small holds. Failing at around 1min still. Blasted.
T - doubles session. Not bad but faded quick towards the end. Flashed a 7a.
W - good doubles session. Should have on sighted a 7a+ but bottled it at the top. Forced to work hard - thanks Paul.
T - think I did something but can't remember what.
F - good session concentrating on movement and slightly easier routes. Got the 7a+.
S - nothing
S - impromptu 4 mile run. About half an hr.
Good week climbing wise. I finally feel as though I am back to where I was before chorro and illness. Now got 4 weeks to push on and get some progress. I'm going to stick with doubles and foot on campussing. Setting myself the target of Annak in Chorro so steep walls are the way ahead. Some good training routes for this at AW now so no excuses.
And I need to get out on the bike as much as possible, so I'm doing that today.
Next weekend I'm putting the beastmaker back up !
Cheers ER.
Totally forgot to post last week. Average week. Couple of climbing sessions where I felt I was coming back to form.Working a v6 saw me tweak my left ring finger at the bottom. First time ever I thought about it and stopped Climbing anything hard. Did some foot on campussing to finish instead. Glad i stopped as it is quite sore still. My idea of getting on crimpy routes to target my weaknesses may have to be postponed. Also had an average doubles session.
First proper bike ride was the big milestone. 18 miles in an hour and a half. 300m of ascent, felt like a lot more. I totally bonked out at the end. Went out on an empty stomach. Won't do that again ! Need to get out as much as possible but like Grubes I used the weather as an excuse.
Last week:
M - campus board session after work. 5 sets on small holds. Failing at around 1min still. Blasted.
T - doubles session. Not bad but faded quick towards the end. Flashed a 7a.
W - good doubles session. Should have on sighted a 7a+ but bottled it at the top. Forced to work hard - thanks Paul.
T - think I did something but can't remember what.
F - good session concentrating on movement and slightly easier routes. Got the 7a+.
S - nothing
S - impromptu 4 mile run. About half an hr.
Good week climbing wise. I finally feel as though I am back to where I was before chorro and illness. Now got 4 weeks to push on and get some progress. I'm going to stick with doubles and foot on campussing. Setting myself the target of Annak in Chorro so steep walls are the way ahead. Some good training routes for this at AW now so no excuses.
And I need to get out on the bike as much as possible, so I'm doing that today.
Next weekend I'm putting the beastmaker back up !
In reply to Ally Smith:
Nice one ally did not realise you had not done 8A before massive tick.
So is that all three now?
Nice one ally did not realise you had not done 8A before massive tick.
So is that all three now?
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks for doing the stats Eagle River.
The climbing specific strength training has definitely stepped up the last couple of weeks, my elbows are just barely keeping up but it does seem to be paying off, I got some good ticks this week!
M: Gym; chin up intervals (100 chin ups!), Light finger rolls, frenchies
T: Chest; bench, incline fly, dips
Shoulder; shoulder press machine, dumbell press,bent over cable lateral raise, rotator twists
W: Core; crunches, knee raise twists, front lever (knees bent)
Fingerboard; CWP fingerboard routine wk1 10 sec hangs
T: boulder; 3x15mins
F:
S:
S: climb; indoor, 6a, 6a+, 6a+, 6a, 6b, 6c+, 7a, 7a plus 1 set AnCap
So another good week, 100 chin ups on Monday was a welcome surprise, well pleased with that (until I read about PPG doing 180, TWICE!!) and then a good antagonist session Tuesday with another PB on bench (75kg for 6 reps) and higher weights on almost all exercises.
I did my first fingerboard session, decided to try Chris Webb Parsons training plan as it seemed quite low impact and low risk to get me back into fingerboarding, basically its just sets of 10 second, one hand hangs (with offset support from the other hand) on the smallest edge you can manage. For me, thats currently a pretty big edge so there is loads of potential for measurable improvement. I love stats!
I lost my climbign partner to the lurgy this week so I did AeroCap on the boulder wall, 3 15min sessions on the wall, went really nicely.
As a warm up I decided to do the v4 that I used for AnPow last week, which I proceeded to clean and then downclimb easily, last week it was tough just to get up it!
Then in between sets of AeroCap, I watched a guy trying a problem with a set of bad pinches, thought it couldn't do any harm to have one quick go and I flashed it. Checked the grade and it was V6! Very pleased with that.
Yesterday we went to reading, unfortunately I jarred my elbow warming up which plagued me all day (and is delicate now) but I still flashed one of their purples (V4-6) which I think was probably V5!
Ticked a hard 7a route in 2 tries, I would call it 7a+ myself, and decided to use the first 15 moves to do AnCap sets on. I did one set of 4 reps but the elbow was starting really complain so I left it at that.
Good session though, only spoiled by some idiot cutting up my girlfriend on the wall and then when I asked him afterwards to be a bit more considerate shrugging and saying 'well she was taking ages' (which she wasn't)
Am I wrong thinking the person who was on the wall first, and who is higher on the wall has 'right of way' as it were? The person below should wait until their route is clear, right? Man, he was rude.
STG: 7b redpoint indoor. - 7a so far (I'd call it 7a+)
Stay injury free - sort of, im sure elbow will be fine
MTG: La Carnage as Bas Cuvier in April.
Stay injury free
LTG: 8a repdoint this year
Stay injury free!
Thanks for doing the stats Eagle River.
The climbing specific strength training has definitely stepped up the last couple of weeks, my elbows are just barely keeping up but it does seem to be paying off, I got some good ticks this week!
M: Gym; chin up intervals (100 chin ups!), Light finger rolls, frenchies
T: Chest; bench, incline fly, dips
Shoulder; shoulder press machine, dumbell press,bent over cable lateral raise, rotator twists
W: Core; crunches, knee raise twists, front lever (knees bent)
Fingerboard; CWP fingerboard routine wk1 10 sec hangs
T: boulder; 3x15mins
F:
S:
S: climb; indoor, 6a, 6a+, 6a+, 6a, 6b, 6c+, 7a, 7a plus 1 set AnCap
So another good week, 100 chin ups on Monday was a welcome surprise, well pleased with that (until I read about PPG doing 180, TWICE!!) and then a good antagonist session Tuesday with another PB on bench (75kg for 6 reps) and higher weights on almost all exercises.
I did my first fingerboard session, decided to try Chris Webb Parsons training plan as it seemed quite low impact and low risk to get me back into fingerboarding, basically its just sets of 10 second, one hand hangs (with offset support from the other hand) on the smallest edge you can manage. For me, thats currently a pretty big edge so there is loads of potential for measurable improvement. I love stats!
I lost my climbign partner to the lurgy this week so I did AeroCap on the boulder wall, 3 15min sessions on the wall, went really nicely.
As a warm up I decided to do the v4 that I used for AnPow last week, which I proceeded to clean and then downclimb easily, last week it was tough just to get up it!
Then in between sets of AeroCap, I watched a guy trying a problem with a set of bad pinches, thought it couldn't do any harm to have one quick go and I flashed it. Checked the grade and it was V6! Very pleased with that.
Yesterday we went to reading, unfortunately I jarred my elbow warming up which plagued me all day (and is delicate now) but I still flashed one of their purples (V4-6) which I think was probably V5!
Ticked a hard 7a route in 2 tries, I would call it 7a+ myself, and decided to use the first 15 moves to do AnCap sets on. I did one set of 4 reps but the elbow was starting really complain so I left it at that.
Good session though, only spoiled by some idiot cutting up my girlfriend on the wall and then when I asked him afterwards to be a bit more considerate shrugging and saying 'well she was taking ages' (which she wasn't)
Am I wrong thinking the person who was on the wall first, and who is higher on the wall has 'right of way' as it were? The person below should wait until their route is clear, right? Man, he was rude.
STG: 7b redpoint indoor. - 7a so far (I'd call it 7a+)
Stay injury free - sort of, im sure elbow will be fine
MTG: La Carnage as Bas Cuvier in April.
Stay injury free
LTG: 8a repdoint this year
Stay injury free!
In reply to grubes & AJM:
Cheers guys.
Not gonna claim the "all-rounder" tick just yet.
8A - I'd want to have done some more to feel comfortable claiming the grade. Hatch Life High doesn't really count as a bouldering tick - 35 moves!
8a - the easiest of the bunch
E8 - Done three E7/8's and one E8, but that's was a FA so not happy unless it got a repeat to confirm the grade.
Of course, the real challenge would be to do all of those three, VIII, M8/D8 & 8 pints in 8 months.
Anyone fancy some scratching about in the next few weekends...?
Cheers guys.
Not gonna claim the "all-rounder" tick just yet.
8A - I'd want to have done some more to feel comfortable claiming the grade. Hatch Life High doesn't really count as a bouldering tick - 35 moves!
8a - the easiest of the bunch
E8 - Done three E7/8's and one E8, but that's was a FA so not happy unless it got a repeat to confirm the grade.
Of course, the real challenge would be to do all of those three, VIII, M8/D8 & 8 pints in 8 months.
Anyone fancy some scratching about in the next few weekends...?
Post edited at 10:40
In reply to Ally Smith:
Fixed that for you.
> Of course, the real challenge would be to do all 8 pints in 8 minutes.
Fixed that for you.
In reply to Eagle River:
Cottage should be awesome - I will let you know after the next couple of long weekends there!
M - Plank challenge 2. Rest
T - Plank challenge 2. Brookes 4x6s (was meant to be 4x4s but lead wall was full so on shorter Top Rope wall). Seriously pumped.
W - Plank challenge 2. Rest
T - Plank challenge 2.30. Bouldering technical. Worked some V2-4s and very pleased with nailing the tufa heelhook traverse.
F - Plank challenge 2. Stuck at work til 10.30 so Rest. Seeing a bit of a Friday pattern here!
S – Bouldering at Woolwich Reach. High volume up to V3 then working a few problems. Wonko and I learnt lots about advanced spotting manoeuvres when I dynoed sideways for a hold on a roof then cartwheeled as I pinged off it. Then we undid all good work by eating belated Christmas Dinner.
S - Body balance (yoga, tai chi, pilates) class.
Cottage should be awesome - I will let you know after the next couple of long weekends there!
M - Plank challenge 2. Rest
T - Plank challenge 2. Brookes 4x6s (was meant to be 4x4s but lead wall was full so on shorter Top Rope wall). Seriously pumped.
W - Plank challenge 2. Rest
T - Plank challenge 2.30. Bouldering technical. Worked some V2-4s and very pleased with nailing the tufa heelhook traverse.
F - Plank challenge 2. Stuck at work til 10.30 so Rest. Seeing a bit of a Friday pattern here!
S – Bouldering at Woolwich Reach. High volume up to V3 then working a few problems. Wonko and I learnt lots about advanced spotting manoeuvres when I dynoed sideways for a hold on a roof then cartwheeled as I pinged off it. Then we undid all good work by eating belated Christmas Dinner.
S - Body balance (yoga, tai chi, pilates) class.
In reply to Joughton: have you got your own? i reckon i could get about 8ft wide but the height might only be about 8ft.. is that worth it?
i had a shot on one and could really see how it balances things out... it sort of worked for me in terms of the way my brain/body needs stimulating in climbing.
PXS none of the pull were weighted... i need to weight them now... 8-10 reps of somehtiing 20% heavier than my body weight is more beneficial than 20-25 reps of just me ... i think?
i had a shot on one and could really see how it balances things out... it sort of worked for me in terms of the way my brain/body needs stimulating in climbing.
PXS none of the pull were weighted... i need to weight them now... 8-10 reps of somehtiing 20% heavier than my body weight is more beneficial than 20-25 reps of just me ... i think?
In reply to pork pie girl:
As I understand it, yes, heavier weight is better than more reps, although it seems to be quite a contentious subject. From what I can tell, most people seem to be of the opinion that high reps is good for building muscle mass, whereas high weight is better for building strength, which for us climbers is infinitely preferrable.
As I understand it, yes, heavier weight is better than more reps, although it seems to be quite a contentious subject. From what I can tell, most people seem to be of the opinion that high reps is good for building muscle mass, whereas high weight is better for building strength, which for us climbers is infinitely preferrable.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Great work Ally.
I think after my trip next month I'm going to get into the ancap/aerocap/anpow shizzle. Barrow's article cleared a lot of it up for me and I finally understand what it means.
Great work Ally.
I think after my trip next month I'm going to get into the ancap/aerocap/anpow shizzle. Barrow's article cleared a lot of it up for me and I finally understand what it means.
In reply to Dandan:
As a fellow elbow sufferer I'm intrigued to see you can do lots of pull ups. They destroy my elbows.
Do you do eccentrics with Hand weights or just the dips etc ?
As a fellow elbow sufferer I'm intrigued to see you can do lots of pull ups. They destroy my elbows.
Do you do eccentrics with Hand weights or just the dips etc ?
In reply to biscuit:
I think there are many potential elbow issues so mine may not be the same as yours but recently I have found the weight on a stick movements, both inside and outside have really helped (I do it with a theraband but same motion) along with a brachioradialis stretch (big muscle on top of forearm).
They have allowed me to train hard 5 days a week for a while now, even after introducing more and more climbing specific training. The best advice I can give though is to listen to your body and warm up for EVERYTHING. I swear that's been the best solution to elbow pain for me so far. Hope that helps.
I think there are many potential elbow issues so mine may not be the same as yours but recently I have found the weight on a stick movements, both inside and outside have really helped (I do it with a theraband but same motion) along with a brachioradialis stretch (big muscle on top of forearm).
They have allowed me to train hard 5 days a week for a while now, even after introducing more and more climbing specific training. The best advice I can give though is to listen to your body and warm up for EVERYTHING. I swear that's been the best solution to elbow pain for me so far. Hope that helps.
In reply to Dandan
Good to hear. It's been a long term thing but I haven't had it for a while, or finger Iinjuries.That's due to not climbing indoors I think.
Anyway I'm back on with the exercises you describe and fingers crossed they work for me too. I have noticed a pretty quick effect in reduced soreness.
Good to hear. It's been a long term thing but I haven't had it for a while, or finger Iinjuries.That's due to not climbing indoors I think.
Anyway I'm back on with the exercises you describe and fingers crossed they work for me too. I have noticed a pretty quick effect in reduced soreness.
In reply to pork pie girl: My board at home is only about 4ft wide, and maybe 10ft high. Not great at all for a systems board but it's better than nothing!
The best I've been on are the woodies at AW Stockport and Rockover, which are probably more like 12x12... but I'd say 8x8 would be worth it if it was at a fairly steep angle, maybe 35-45?
I don't have anything to weight myself with and am feeling similar in that >10 is too many for pure strength so I do offsets instead. They feel pretty hard if I set the rungs so one arm is straight whilst the other is fully locked. Also has the added bonus of working the antagonistic muscles of the opposite arm.
The best I've been on are the woodies at AW Stockport and Rockover, which are probably more like 12x12... but I'd say 8x8 would be worth it if it was at a fairly steep angle, maybe 35-45?
I don't have anything to weight myself with and am feeling similar in that >10 is too many for pure strength so I do offsets instead. They feel pretty hard if I set the rungs so one arm is straight whilst the other is fully locked. Also has the added bonus of working the antagonistic muscles of the opposite arm.
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers ER, yeah, the Boardroom is good! Did the 7a first go and did another 7a too. had a good week overall!
Effort Ally on the 8A! All set for the 8c this weekend!
Monday: Lunch session:
12 Wide Grip Pull Ups, 10 Dips
Rock Ring Pull-Ups
Set 1 - Lrg: 10 Med: 8 Sml: 5
Set 2 - Lrg: 10 Med: 10 Sml: 5
3 x 10 Hammer-Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Bent Over Dumbell Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
Pulled a muscle in my neck, couldn't walk/move by the evening. Got on the painkillers.
Tuesday: Rest (Neck still bad, couldn't move it much but could walk)
Wednesday: Lunch session in attempt to loosen neck up (it worked!)
3 x 20 Press Ups
3 x 10 Dumbbell front raises (10kg)
3 x 10 Dips
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 10 Dumbbell Lunges (17.5kg)
3 x 10 Dumbbell Upright Shoulder Rotation's (5kg)
Evening: 30 Mins Aerocap
Thursday: Boardroom routes (Neck felt fine and had a great session)
5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c+, 7a, 7a
Mates bailed before I could warm down so did:
3 x V2
15 mins Aerocap
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Went to Angel Bay, seals on the beach so couldn't go down.
Went to the Orme did "Hip Hop" (6C+) then did the 7A sit-start twice. Had to bail after half an hour because of some running race round the Orme! (Argh!)
Ended up at Bodafon and worked on "Pumpsville" (7A). Steep (Anti-style) traverse (~20 moves) on pockets and crimps. Did all the moves and some good links but had no skin left to link it all.
Evening: Stretching for 1 hour
Cheers ER, yeah, the Boardroom is good! Did the 7a first go and did another 7a too. had a good week overall!
Effort Ally on the 8A! All set for the 8c this weekend!
Monday: Lunch session:
12 Wide Grip Pull Ups, 10 Dips
Rock Ring Pull-Ups
Set 1 - Lrg: 10 Med: 8 Sml: 5
Set 2 - Lrg: 10 Med: 10 Sml: 5
3 x 10 Hammer-Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Bent Over Dumbell Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
Pulled a muscle in my neck, couldn't walk/move by the evening. Got on the painkillers.
Tuesday: Rest (Neck still bad, couldn't move it much but could walk)
Wednesday: Lunch session in attempt to loosen neck up (it worked!)
3 x 20 Press Ups
3 x 10 Dumbbell front raises (10kg)
3 x 10 Dips
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 10 Dumbbell Lunges (17.5kg)
3 x 10 Dumbbell Upright Shoulder Rotation's (5kg)
Evening: 30 Mins Aerocap
Thursday: Boardroom routes (Neck felt fine and had a great session)
5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c+, 7a, 7a
Mates bailed before I could warm down so did:
3 x V2
15 mins Aerocap
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Went to Angel Bay, seals on the beach so couldn't go down.
Went to the Orme did "Hip Hop" (6C+) then did the 7A sit-start twice. Had to bail after half an hour because of some running race round the Orme! (Argh!)
Ended up at Bodafon and worked on "Pumpsville" (7A). Steep (Anti-style) traverse (~20 moves) on pockets and crimps. Did all the moves and some good links but had no skin left to link it all.
Evening: Stretching for 1 hour
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks for this Mr. Eagle. Bit late on it this week... Am happy to volunteer for 9 March, if it's still going.
So, last week: not great; still pushing through with work, life and family commitments. Monday was a good session, but then got completely shut down on similar problems the next day.
I think they were a different style, so feel that was a provocation to focus on my weaknesses again. Think I had been overly concentrating on particular overhanging routes. One man's V4 is another's V6, clearly... No V5 yet.
In terms of this week, trying to get back into a bit of a rhythm. The niggles seem to have cleared up, which is good. Want to get a run in this week to break things up and get outside.
Overall, nothing spectacular, but plenty to plug away at.
Thanks for this Mr. Eagle. Bit late on it this week... Am happy to volunteer for 9 March, if it's still going.
So, last week: not great; still pushing through with work, life and family commitments. Monday was a good session, but then got completely shut down on similar problems the next day.
I think they were a different style, so feel that was a provocation to focus on my weaknesses again. Think I had been overly concentrating on particular overhanging routes. One man's V4 is another's V6, clearly... No V5 yet.
In terms of this week, trying to get back into a bit of a rhythm. The niggles seem to have cleared up, which is good. Want to get a run in this week to break things up and get outside.
Overall, nothing spectacular, but plenty to plug away at.
In reply to biscuit:
Biscuit, Joughton, Eagle River, PPG, Tyler, anyone else - Do you fancy a routes session at Stockport this evening?
Biscuit, Joughton, Eagle River, PPG, Tyler, anyone else - Do you fancy a routes session at Stockport this evening?
In reply to Si Cox:
Sorry Si, you're too late:
16/2 - Eagle River
23/2 - mbh
02/3 – mbh
09/3 - Nick Russell
16/3 - Nick Russell
23/3 - ?
Do you want the 23rd instead?
> Thanks for this Mr. Eagle. Bit late on it this week... Am happy to volunteer for 9 March, if it's still going.
Sorry Si, you're too late:
16/2 - Eagle River
23/2 - mbh
02/3 – mbh
09/3 - Nick Russell
16/3 - Nick Russell
23/3 - ?
Do you want the 23rd instead?
In reply to Dandan:
i think doing any exercise above say 12 reps is more about toning rather than buildng mass.. i don't do pull ups for climbing.. i do them because they're a really good back exercise.. done them since i was a kid... i can't add weight when i train at the gym as it's too busy to be messing about dangling a dumbell or disks off my waist.. once i set things up a home in the garage (i'm moving house.. again... third time in 18 months.. would freak most ppl out but i'm a hobo)i'll start weighted ones again.
one thing i have worked out is that a weighted vest (in my case a borrowed a buoyancy with the buoyancy removed and weight disks in it) is loads easier than dangling weight round your waist/between legs/ankles/or on feet.. it sort if centres the weight better and doesn't make you swing about ... using the same wight i can get twice as many reps out with a vest in comparison to a dangling scenario
(i went through a stage of hooking tins of paint on my feet.. now that was hard work)
i think doing any exercise above say 12 reps is more about toning rather than buildng mass.. i don't do pull ups for climbing.. i do them because they're a really good back exercise.. done them since i was a kid... i can't add weight when i train at the gym as it's too busy to be messing about dangling a dumbell or disks off my waist.. once i set things up a home in the garage (i'm moving house.. again... third time in 18 months.. would freak most ppl out but i'm a hobo)i'll start weighted ones again.
one thing i have worked out is that a weighted vest (in my case a borrowed a buoyancy with the buoyancy removed and weight disks in it) is loads easier than dangling weight round your waist/between legs/ankles/or on feet.. it sort if centres the weight better and doesn't make you swing about ... using the same wight i can get twice as many reps out with a vest in comparison to a dangling scenario
(i went through a stage of hooking tins of paint on my feet.. now that was hard work)
In reply to Ally Smith:
hiya .. sorry didn't see your post.. once I return from spain (as of the week commencing the 24th i'm starting route sessons at stockport wall .. monday or tuesday nights for now.. more flexibility from the beginning of april once i move back to greater manchester.
i have enough kendal passes to last me until the end of march for my days off work
hiya .. sorry didn't see your post.. once I return from spain (as of the week commencing the 24th i'm starting route sessons at stockport wall .. monday or tuesday nights for now.. more flexibility from the beginning of april once i move back to greater manchester.
i have enough kendal passes to last me until the end of march for my days off work
In reply to Ally Smith:
Can't I'm afraid I'm in Birmingham. The tea lady is unwell at our data centre so they needed someone to stand in last minute.
Can't I'm afraid I'm in Birmingham. The tea lady is unwell at our data centre so they needed someone to stand in last minute.
In reply to Joughton:
i need to spend some time with pple that do specific training for climbing.. as i don't have a clue... i just climb
yeah.. i think a woodie would be good... need to suss out my new garage.. as 35+ may be too much and rule out using the garage for anything else.. however i do have a spare bedrooms and a huge loft
i need to spend some time with pple that do specific training for climbing.. as i don't have a clue... i just climb
yeah.. i think a woodie would be good... need to suss out my new garage.. as 35+ may be too much and rule out using the garage for anything else.. however i do have a spare bedrooms and a huge loft
In reply to biscuit:
my elbows were knacking from doing lots of climbing at malham... i kept doing pull ups but didn;t fully lock out at the bottom... i find stretching my biceps and ensuring i do chect and tricep resistance exercises really helps.. i haven't had any elbow problems since malham has been too wet to climb
my elbows were knacking from doing lots of climbing at malham... i kept doing pull ups but didn;t fully lock out at the bottom... i find stretching my biceps and ensuring i do chect and tricep resistance exercises really helps.. i haven't had any elbow problems since malham has been too wet to climb
In reply to Ally Smith:
second that.... linving in the uk will always mean rubbish weather.. still need to get out.. or buy a cardio machine for home/work
second that.... linving in the uk will always mean rubbish weather.. still need to get out.. or buy a cardio machine for home/work
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks for the welcome,
Aims for the year are really just to get stronger and fitter.
Only started climbing again last year after a few years out, still stuck indoors ATM due to lack of climbing partners! But my aim is to get to a respectable grade indoors in the meantime.
Currently bouldering v3/4 and leading f6+ indoors.
want to get my 5k time down to sub 40 mins too.
Thanks for the welcome,
Aims for the year are really just to get stronger and fitter.
Only started climbing again last year after a few years out, still stuck indoors ATM due to lack of climbing partners! But my aim is to get to a respectable grade indoors in the meantime.
Currently bouldering v3/4 and leading f6+ indoors.
want to get my 5k time down to sub 40 mins too.
In reply to mattrm:
Ah, didn't read through the whole thread, as I was bit slow off the mark.
But, yes, happy to do the stats for 23 March.
Ah, didn't read through the whole thread, as I was bit slow off the mark.
But, yes, happy to do the stats for 23 March.
In reply to Si Cox:
Cool, thanks Nick and Si. So that is the next six weeks sorted.
16/2 - Eagle River
23/2 - mbh
02/3 – mbh
09/3 - Nick Russell
16/3 - Nick Russell
23/3 - Si Cox
Cool, thanks Nick and Si. So that is the next six weeks sorted.
16/2 - Eagle River
23/2 - mbh
02/3 – mbh
09/3 - Nick Russell
16/3 - Nick Russell
23/3 - Si Cox
In reply to Eagle River:
M- Indoor Bouldering
T- Indoor Bouldering
W- Nothing
T- Indoor Bouldering
F- 2hours of football. Knee was OK.
S- Lead Routes
S- Indoor Bouldering
M- Indoor Bouldering
T- Indoor Bouldering
W- Nothing
T- Indoor Bouldering
F- 2hours of football. Knee was OK.
S- Lead Routes
S- Indoor Bouldering
In reply to spud_23:
Fr6a? 6b? 6c? (if you can do v3, then you should be fine on 6b/c)
Shouldn't be too hard, just a case of putting a few months of running in. Are you sure you mean 5k there? 10k maybe?
> Currently bouldering v3/4 and leading f6+ indoors.
Fr6a? 6b? 6c? (if you can do v3, then you should be fine on 6b/c)
> want to get my 5k time down to sub 40 mins too.
Shouldn't be too hard, just a case of putting a few months of running in. Are you sure you mean 5k there? 10k maybe?
In reply to mattrm:
Sorry meant 6b/c. Like I said still new, never really bothered much with grades just if I could do it or not.
Yeah it's a case of training but like I said it's a target.
Definitely meant 5k, with bad lungs and f*cked up knees!
Sorry meant 6b/c. Like I said still new, never really bothered much with grades just if I could do it or not.
Yeah it's a case of training but like I said it's a target.
Definitely meant 5k, with bad lungs and f*cked up knees!
In reply to spud_23:
From other posts guess your based in leicester
For the 5k have you tried this?
http://www.parkrun.org.uk/braunstone/
They have pace setters so you can follow someone who is running it at a suitable time. Should bring your time down fast. (plus its free)
Also if you want a partner the guy who runs the tower is Ian MacKenzie who is really nice if you ask him I am sure he would head out to a crag with you.
From other posts guess your based in leicester
For the 5k have you tried this?
http://www.parkrun.org.uk/braunstone/
They have pace setters so you can follow someone who is running it at a suitable time. Should bring your time down fast. (plus its free)
Also if you want a partner the guy who runs the tower is Ian MacKenzie who is really nice if you ask him I am sure he would head out to a crag with you.
In reply to Eagle River:
Yep! On Monday I sneaked out in a brief weather window – strong gusts on the Upper Tier of the Roaches but this dried the rock out nicely. I warmed up directly on Drunk Enough. Not good considering that this is at my limit but I had two goes and felt very close, reverting back to my old method of using the lower hold for my left hand. I jumped on for a third go and nailed it. Onto Too Drunk now.
It doesn't look like I'm going to get much winter climbing done this season. I've had to miss out on two opportunities due to having large projects with deadlines but I can't complain as it's certainly nice to have the work coming in.
This Week:
Weight: 138 lbs
Training Hours: 7:48hrs
Pitches (lead/2nd): 0/0
MTB Rides: 2
Walks / Scrambles: 2
M: Bouldering at the Roaches: Ticked Drunk Enough at 6C+
T: Rest
W: 26km / 1:00hr mountain bike ride
T: 20km / 1:17hr mountain bike ride followed by 3:00hr Mam Tor Castleton loop walk
F: Rest
S: 2:00hr Lud's Church loop walk
S: Rest
STG:
Drunk Enough 6C+ (Roaches) (TICK!)
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Sleeping With The Flowers 7A (Roaches)
10 pitches per week, lead or second
Get fit for Alps trips this year: 3 x mountain bike rides per week and/or long walking & scrambling days.
MTG (by Dec 2014):
Consolodate winter experience
Get out to the Alps (trip booked for June!)
500 pitches this year, lead or second (total: 0)
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet (on a back burner as the Churnet has now entered green mode for the most part)
VLTG (dreams):
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Something on the NF Grand Jurasses...
Yep! On Monday I sneaked out in a brief weather window – strong gusts on the Upper Tier of the Roaches but this dried the rock out nicely. I warmed up directly on Drunk Enough. Not good considering that this is at my limit but I had two goes and felt very close, reverting back to my old method of using the lower hold for my left hand. I jumped on for a third go and nailed it. Onto Too Drunk now.
It doesn't look like I'm going to get much winter climbing done this season. I've had to miss out on two opportunities due to having large projects with deadlines but I can't complain as it's certainly nice to have the work coming in.
This Week:
Weight: 138 lbs
Training Hours: 7:48hrs
Pitches (lead/2nd): 0/0
MTB Rides: 2
Walks / Scrambles: 2
M: Bouldering at the Roaches: Ticked Drunk Enough at 6C+
T: Rest
W: 26km / 1:00hr mountain bike ride
T: 20km / 1:17hr mountain bike ride followed by 3:00hr Mam Tor Castleton loop walk
F: Rest
S: 2:00hr Lud's Church loop walk
S: Rest
STG:
Drunk Enough 6C+ (Roaches) (TICK!)
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Sleeping With The Flowers 7A (Roaches)
10 pitches per week, lead or second
Get fit for Alps trips this year: 3 x mountain bike rides per week and/or long walking & scrambling days.
MTG (by Dec 2014):
Consolodate winter experience
Get out to the Alps (trip booked for June!)
500 pitches this year, lead or second (total: 0)
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet (on a back burner as the Churnet has now entered green mode for the most part)
VLTG (dreams):
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Something on the NF Grand Jurasses...
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...