UKC

Hi
Where would you climb in the Cairngorms at the moment? I was going to take some mates who are new to winter climbing so looking for easy grade I or II stuff but Sneachda for example looks out at the moment.

Anyone got other suggestions/recommendations?

In reply to Tarquell:

i've not been over to look recently, but Stag rocks might be an option as it's South facing. The grade 1s are gullies though, so they may still be dodgy with cross loading as the wind has swung around a bit. Would be my best guess at the moment though.

In reply to Tarquell:

Fiacaill Ridge?

Can anyone give any good suggestions for Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor and Glencoe area....up to Grade III please.

Ta,

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In reply to girlymonkey:

I was on stag rocks on sunday. There is some deep snow in the gullies but whilst laborious it wasn't all that dangerious where we decended down the side. After thought arete would be a great option i think?
James

In reply to Tarquell:

Thanks for the suggestions, Stag Rocks sounds good. After thought arete is a III isn't it?

In reply to Tarquell:

Was up at Coire an t-Sneachda last week and the conditions on all NW-NE faces were horrific. Most the gullies were full of snow. We climbed the Fiacaill ridge and had a great day out. Keep your eye on the avalanche forecast at SAIS as the weather is so unpredictable at the moment. Have fun!!

In reply to Tarquell:
If the temperature is 4/5 degress or less in Dundee then Bawhelps in Glen Prosen: http://graniteandice.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/seven-routes-in-angus.html

The location is here: https://www.streetmap.co.uk/map.srf?x=323112&y=771940&z=120&sv=...

Walk or cycle to the end of Glen Prosen and then up to the crag. Tons of good grade I or II lines. Just climb what seems a good line. There are no nasty surprises...

In reply to hwackerhage:

looks like a nice spot - I know its hard to predict without actually having been there, but do you think that area could be fairly heavily loaded at the moment?

In reply to Tarquell:


good conditions for skiing - cairngorm langlauf ?

In reply to Dr.S at work:

We were near there on Saturday and there is good neve if it is cold enough. Also it is east facing so should be ok but check the SAIS avalanche forecast.

In reply to Tarquell:
Lurchers is a good bet, climbed there yesterday. the walk in from the suger bowl car park (the carpark below the lower ski car park on cairngorm)is really easy and safe, skirted the chalamain gap on its north side to avoid swimming in powder through it. the rest of the walk was on rock solid neve, took less than 2 hours car to crag. did central gully which had great neve and some good blue ice but the main pitches are fairly banked out and therefore easy at the grade (given grade III but can be climed at grade II right now). North gully looked a similar storey (also same grade). left and right ice falls are just grade 1 snow slopes atm. K9 (IV) looked solid and blue but myabe a little skinny which could make it hard at the grade? no cornices to worry about at the top of the crag.