UKC

Cha-no & Lurchers this weekend?

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mrtwister 12 Feb 2014
Given the current conditions & forecast for more snow I'm thinking that my options are a bit limited.
Can anyone tell me what is on the top of recovery gully in terms of protection? I understand that the norm is to ab in so I'm hoping to save a bit of digging.
Is there much cornicing/build up at the moment?
Has anyone been to Lurcher's recently? What's the approach like right now?

Any help is much appreciated.

Steve
Stuart Lade 12 Feb 2014
In reply to mrtwister:

There's usually some in-situ tat around a small boulder to use, though recovery gully (skiers right from top of anvil gully) is usually a straightforward enough down climb.
 ankyo 12 Feb 2014
In reply to mrtwister:

Do you think Cha no will be safe given today's avalanche forecast?
 Michael Gordon 12 Feb 2014
In reply to ankyo:

If you ab down the route you wish to climb you might be OK, otherwise I wouldn't risk it.
 Ron Walker 12 Feb 2014
In reply to Michael Gordon:

IMHO - pretty big cornices on the normal access routes and despite lots of folk using Recovery Gully, I thought that area was pretty dodgy last week when queues of folk were abseiling in.
I don't think you can get a real idea of what is good or safe from the UKC lemming reports and folk should make their own informed decisions!
mrtwister 12 Feb 2014
Stuart & Michael, cheers.
Ankyo, agree that the avalanche forecast looks a lot worse now.
Doesn't look like things are set to improve imminently.
Oh well

 Webster 13 Feb 2014
In reply to mrtwister:

Lurchers is a good bet, climbed there yesterday. the walk in from the suger bowl car park is really easy and safe, skirted the chalamain gap on its north side to avoid swimming in powder through it. the rest of the walk was on rock solid neve, took less than 2 hours car to crag. did central gully which had great neve and some good blue ice but the main pitches are fairly banked out and therefore easy at the grade. North gully looked a similar storey. left and right ice falls are just grade 1 snow slopes atm. K9 looked solid and blue but myabe a little skinny which could make it hard at the grade? no cornices to worry about at the top of the crag.
mrtwister 14 Feb 2014
In reply to Webster:

Thanks for that, nice to see that something is climable atm.

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