/ Ice climbing conditions in Chamonix
nah man nuit blanche is super bomber, hooks all the way too
I'd say that routes up high are probably out for the time being unless we get some good weather to settle the snow out.
Hi Dave - have you got any info re the Bernese Oberland - thinking of doing the 38 route in early april and trying to get a handle on conditions over the next few weeks.
Sorry not been over there but if that face is anything like the north faces out here at the moment then its probably not a good year for it.
Looking at this webcam http://www.bahnhof-scheidegg.ch/default.asp?itemid=107&lang=e
I'd say there's not enough ice on it to be enjoyable!!
Nuit Blanche is in condition. There was actually good hooks on the overhang at the second pitch, today. No crack to compromise an ascent in sight.
What's the best way to access Rive Droite? specifically, the lower end.
Logan lift. Walk or ski to the cafe the go down the slope.
Think for one lift up and down it was €16. You don't need to buy a ski day pass.
Must have reformed in the past weeks. It cracked all the way accross easier in the season.
Access for Rive droite is hard. I've been there once and we ski'd from the top of the GM onto the Glacier then hiked up the moraine on the other side. From there you traverse (on the snow, on ski's) all the way past the routes to a cluster of trees above some cliffs. 2 abseils takes you down to the bottom (more or less) of shiva. Not the safest approach in the world but beats going up the lower glacier underneath the seracs!! Rive Droite gets to much sun at this time of the year though. It would need to be a baltic day IMO.
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