/ Ice climbing conditions in Chamonix

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Dave Searle - on 13 Feb 2014
Most of the ice routes on the nearside of the Argentiere Icefalls are good still except Nuit blanche which has got a big crack in it, apparently. The far side looks good but the snow slopes above look very scary and the routes are getting a lot of sunshine these days too. Last time I was at the Cremerie it was super snowed under!

http://davesearle.me/2014/02/13/cascade-emhm/
Ginger McGrath - on 13 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave Searle:
nah man nuit blanche is super bomber, hooks all the way too

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N_7v67eI3CY/TroVm82aN6I/AAAAAAAABog/DXhjaLOJC7c/s1600/SANDBAG1.jpg
Post edited at 22:29
Dave Searle - on 13 Feb 2014
In reply to Ginger McGrath:

HAHAHAHA Nice.
pawelx - on 13 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave Searle: your guess regaring conditions over next 3-4 days? What about routes at altitude ?
Dave Searle - on 14 Feb 2014
In reply to pawelx:

I'd say that routes up high are probably out for the time being unless we get some good weather to settle the snow out.
lindsay yule - on 14 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave Searle:

Hi Dave - have you got any info re the Bernese Oberland - thinking of doing the 38 route in early april and trying to get a handle on conditions over the next few weeks.

Cheers

Lindsay
Dave Searle - on 14 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave Searle:

Sorry not been over there but if that face is anything like the north faces out here at the moment then its probably not a good year for it.

Looking at this webcam http://www.bahnhof-scheidegg.ch/default.asp?itemid=107&lang=e
I'd say there's not enough ice on it to be enjoyable!!
frqnt - on 22 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave Searle:

Nuit Blanche is in condition. There was actually good hooks on the overhang at the second pitch, today. No crack to compromise an ascent in sight.

What's the best way to access Rive Droite? specifically, the lower end.
WILLS - on 22 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave Searle:
Logan lift. Walk or ski to the cafe the go down the slope.
Think for one lift up and down it was 16. You don't need to buy a ski day pass.
Post edited at 18:47
blackcat on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to frqnt: I think its the same approach for mur du bas,across the glacier.

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Dave Searle - on 28 Feb 2014
In reply to frqnt:

Must have reformed in the past weeks. It cracked all the way accross easier in the season.
Access for Rive droite is hard. I've been there once and we ski'd from the top of the GM onto the Glacier then hiked up the moraine on the other side. From there you traverse (on the snow, on ski's) all the way past the routes to a cluster of trees above some cliffs. 2 abseils takes you down to the bottom (more or less) of shiva. Not the safest approach in the world but beats going up the lower glacier underneath the seracs!! Rive Droite gets to much sun at this time of the year though. It would need to be a baltic day IMO.

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