/ Mallorca DWS what kit should we take?

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blakey21 - on 16 Feb 2014
Off to Mallorca in May, it says in the DWS guide book that it is advisable to take some rope for the descents and maybe some wires/ slings??

What do we actually need?

Is anything in-situ?

Do some venues require ab in and prussic out?
Boat access?

We will be taking kit for sport routes anyway, but, any knowledge with regards to the DWS that you could impart would be BRILLIANT!

Thanks
daimon - on 16 Feb 2014
In reply to blakey21:
It all depends on where your wanting to solo. Some places don't need a rope and some defo do.
Also when are you planing to go?
thermal_t - on 16 Feb 2014
In reply to blakey21: Possibly a wetsuit if you are going in May, the water will be pretty cold.
M0nkey - on 17 Feb 2014
In reply to blakey21:

Chalk is the one area where you need to be a bit creative. An ordinary chalk bag is pretty useless after one swim. The solutions I have seen are:

1. Liquid chalk topped up by chalked shorts/forearms that you dab your hands on as you go.
2. Small drybags around the waist used as a waterproof chalkbag
3. Sandwich bag in the chalk bag
4. Cut bottom off a plastic water bottle, string on some cord and fill with chalk.

It's pretty rare to need a rope to get in.
blakey21 - on 17 Feb 2014
In reply to blakey21:

Thanks for the posts!

Other peoples thoughts on a wetsuit for May? Happy to take if necessary!
Gus - on 17 Feb 2014
In reply to blakey21:

Depending on where you are climbing I'd definitely take some sort of rope for water exits. Even at popular crags like Diablo the exit ropes that are normally established and in place in high season in september might have been broken or damaged by winter storms. If that's the case it can be VERY difficult to get out when soaking wet and tired.

Take some slings and screwgates, plus a decent length/s of old rope. Tie big looped knots (alpine butterflys) in the rope every half meter or so, so you can put your feet in them and stand up in them and climb out.

blakey21 - on 17 Feb 2014
In reply to Gus:

Thanks Gus, appreciate that, will deco take some 'old rope' for this purpose!
The Ivanator - on 17 Feb 2014
In reply to blakey21: Are you aware of the access problems on Mallorca? One of the premier DWS crags (Cala Barques) is currently banned, full article here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68591

Gus - on 18 Feb 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

We were there in September 2013 after talk of bans, police checks, and signs forbidding DWS at Barques. When we got there there were no problems. Tons of folk climbing and jumping.

It does sound like there are some more widespread access issues/ bans on climbing on Mallorca now though, I would have though crags like Diablo, Cala Sa Nau etc would be OK.

Have a good un and be safe!
silhouette - on 18 Feb 2014
In reply to blakey21: Seconding what Gus said there about short bits of rope for water exits. A few wires / hexes to hang these ropes off. Cheap dry bag can be useful as you can sometimes swim in, clamber up just above the water and dry out in the sun before climbing.

EBclimbing - on 19 Feb 2014
In reply to blakey21:

A dingy would be a good idea, most accidents in DWS are due to difficulties in the water. My best mate drowned in mallorca on the swim between where he fell and the exit point and would have probably survived if he'd had some sort of inflatable, he was a pretty strong swimmer but just didn't make it back to the exit.
AndrewHuddart - on 19 Feb 2014
In reply to EBclimbing:

Sorry to hear about your mate.

We always used to take a 60L dry bag with us which we filled with air to act as emergency float thing. It also gave us something to put wet kit in.
blakey21 - on 19 Feb 2014
In reply to blakey21:

Really appreciate all the replies, I am taking notes!!
Conor1 - on 19 Feb 2014
In reply to blakey21:

I had a shortie wetsuit in May and found it v useful. Friends didn't and they spent a bit more time shivering and less climbing.

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