UKC

Work in progress!
Top 2-3 star E1s of Britain.
Some regional bias, and I'm sure to have missed some classics, particularly north of Manchester-Leeds line.

Any suggestions welcome to get to 200...


http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=775

In reply to Owen W-G:

Nice list!

10 points to who ever suggests left wall first...

In reply to Owen W-G:

I've done 55ish on that list, and two of my own routes are on it, north of the line can I suggest another of mine, Cracked Actor at Trowbarrow?

In reply to Owen W-G:

Oh and another claim for one of my own, White Ghyll Eliminate.

In reply to Al Evans:
Cracked actor is fantastic really enjoyed your route Al!
After all it made it into the uks top 100 limestone climbs, forget who the author is.

although I think its 5c not 5b as some people try to argue


and its e2...what did you grade it originally?

In reply to Al Evans:

Aren't they both E2s?

In reply to Al Evans:

68 for me Al, but none of my routes...

In reply to Owen W-G:

oh Owen, what do you think of razor crack on neckband? awesome crag

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=38165

In reply to Owen W-G:
Surprise Attack at Mewsford.

The Strait Gate, and Rock Idol, both at Mother Carey's Kitchen.

White Slab on Cloggy is E1 if you lasso the spike.

Edit: I see you already have Rock Idol. My bad.

In reply to Al Evans:

55 for me too!

I recommend Red Edge on Esk Buttress, Granolithic Groove at Iron Crag, Holloway/Crocodillo link-up at Pant Ifan, The Groove on Llech Ddu and the Devil's Northwand in Idwal.

In reply to jon:

60 for me but there's a few on the grit that I can't remember if I've done them.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Blimey, I've seconded one of those, fallen off another twice and led 5 of them, although one of them is HVS. ;0)

Got to agree the ones off that list I've done were great climbs.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Two Lakes omissions, Gimmer string and Hells groove, good enjoyed them.

In reply to Alun:

Thanks all
Razor Crack and The Groove has been added, Surprise Attack already there.
White Slab is on my ultimate E2 list, as is Strait Gate. I've done the latter a couple of times now and I think it is too pumpy with crux at top to be E1. The fit will disagree.

In reply to Owen W-G:
a couple missing : Philistine , high crag. Rain drop , Black crag.
and a bit esoteric but well worth inclusion : rock island line, crag lough. struggling to think of one on northumberlnd sandstone , lots at HVS and E2, but E1 anybody ? space walk at kyloe out possibly ?

In reply to Owen W-G:

Sticking with ones I've done:

The Black Streak (Diabaig)
Groovin’ High (Beinn Eighe) – absolutely must be in
Banzai Pipeline (Greatend Crag) – if it’s not totally overgrown these days
Phoenix (Scafell East Buttress) – given E2 on UKC, but I don’t know where that comes from as I’m pretty sure it’s E1 in all published guides (OK, it is desperate, but rules is rules…)
Gimmer String (Gimmer Crag – obviously!) How did you miss that one?!
Outside Tokyo/Dight (Gimmer Crag) More borderline, but it is good
Razor Crack (Neckband Crag)
Agrippa (Craig yr Ysfa)
The Groove (Llech Ddu)
Elliw (Llech Ddu)
Ivy Sepulchre (Dinas Cromlech) Not quite as good as the Gates or the Corner, but good enough I think
Madryn (Simdde Ddu) (Although Gylion at HVS is probably better, but it’s a lovely crag to include)
Voie Suisse (Gist Ddu) (if it hasn’t been upgraded to E2)
Magic Mushroom (Craig y Merched) – Lovely little route
Barad (Trwyn Llwyd) – Upgraded to E1 in the new guide (rightly), so a must
The Strait Gate (Mother Carey’s Kitchen) – E2 in the current definitive, E1 in Rockfax – think the latter is right
The Magic Flute (Beck’s Bay)
King Kong (Wintour’s Leap)
The Horned One (Staple Edge) – Newest route on the list!

Al, you're being too modest, both your routes are E2! The Red Edge is class, but only HVS

Rick

I've done 79, but then I did compile it so I'm biased!

In reply to Owen W-G:
Who can forget about the Old Man Of Hoy?

must try and do that this year before the storms come back and knock it down.


& one last one from me - Coronation Street

In reply to Owen W-G:

Sorry, forgot the all-important bit of willy-waving at the end of my message - 80! (and I've just realised you've got The Groove already - apologies)

In reply to Rick Sewards:

Al, you're being too modest, both your routes are E2! The Red Edge is class, but only HVS


Ah well, that's grade creep for you

In reply to Owen W-G:
Rock Island Line (Peel Crag) http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=42844

Rakes Crack (Great Wanney) http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=40352

In reply to jon:

105 deffos for me a few other possibly! One of mine in there - The Link,


Chris

In reply to Owen W-G: Gor, where do we start. No Ruckle, 1 Mallam, 1 Stoney, no Goredale (Light) at first glance. It would help if they were in some regional order. I don't think you are going to have much trouble reaching 200

In reply to jcw:

Sorry, I withdraw. There was the Ruckle.I must be blind. But think it is a pity you don't confine it to UK. In any case add Light, Goredale.

In reply to Al and jon
121 for me Scotland and north Devon spoilt the rest.
This list could go on for at least another 150 + specially in the peak and yorkshire.
keith s

In reply to Owen W-G:

Does is really need so many Peak routes? These aren't ultimate rouets in the UK, they're just standard ticking fodder, nothing memorable: Easter Rib, Nemmes Pas Harry (lovely move, but it's an eliminate grit route), Anniversary Arete, 3 Pebble, Bicycle Repair Man, Long Tall Sally, Strapiombante, Safety Net, Nonsuch, Millsom's, Dead Banana, Great Buttress Arete etc - this is sounding more like a selected guide to the Peak!

Could take out 50% of the slate too?

I thought Catacomb was better than Nimrod on Dow, both deserve a place.

In reply to keith sanders:


54 for me, which surprised me given how massively underepresented Scotland is.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Tatra at Swanage is now E1 apparently so I gues that's 2 stars.

In reply to Owen W-G:
Bu**er! 98.

Oh. Wait. Just seen post above re Tatra. 99.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Couldn't agree more! [for once ] It is a horribly skewed list.

In reply to Owen W-G:
Some more from north of the Border...

The Killing Moon - Meackie Point
Birthday Treat - Clashrodney
Death Cap - Earnsheugh

Midas Touch - Auchinstarry Quarry

Sarclet Pimpernel - Sarclet

Hoofer's Route - Pabbay
The Priest - Pabbay

Good list!

Cheers

Trist

In reply to scott quinn:

Indeed but just what is good about Fools Gold though?

In reply to scott quinn:



Or The Strand. Definitive E1.

In reply to Owen W-G:

As Jon Stewart has said many of the Peak routes are only mediocre in comparison to others on the list. I'd leave Dead Banana Crack on the list though, also add Left-Hand Route on Raven Buttress in Dovedale.
Also consider:
Nightride - Gogarth
Intern and Finale, both on Gimmer
Gargantuan - Daddyhole
Aplomb - Cheedale

In reply to Owen W-G:

so much Peak but no room for Sirplum/Aplomb?

In reply to Owen W-G:

I'd certainly add King Kong at Wintour's Leap and Daisy Belle at Bird Rock.

In reply to Owen W-G:

You could make a good coffee table book out of this list!
50 for me and a couple of failures.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Must be some more in the Lakes ?: Dedication (Falcon Crags) and +1 for Banzai Pipeline (Great End Crag) when its clean.

In reply to ripper:

Peak Limestone, the best kept secret... at least around sheffield it seems. Always a quiet crag and decent length pitch availible.

Interesting list. Even if it is just to find out all the climbs I've yet to climb but should consider.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Nice one, got a couple more with my bias:
Shivers Arete
First Finale

In reply to Owen W-G:

How could I forget!

Vindaloo - Glen Clova
(One of the best single pitch E1's in the country IMO)

Trist

In reply to Owen W-G:

Having checked my guides I'm up to 67

I'd be dropping quite a few of the Peak Grit routes though. Bella Lugosi? not particularly good.

In reply to Owen W-G:

I totally agree with Jon and others that there are too many routes on grit that are great but aren't that special on a national level even if this would lower my total from 65 at present.
Then again there are some that should be added from the moors instead.
I'd loose Anniversary Arete, in favour of Eye of Faith (on Gardoms not the moors and much better than Moyer's Buttress) and ditch the bolder problem "Ripper" as its a V2/3 not a route. Ocean Wall and or Falling Heroes at Standing stones would be a much better replacement, or Turtle if it isn't E2. Up on kinder stuff like Interstate or The Ivory Tower would also easily beat over rated stuff like Long Tall Sally and ticking fodder as Jon said like Nemmes Pas Harry. Up on Wimberry if classed as E1 The Trident or Freddie's Finale make Three Pebble Slab look like a piece of over hyped polished shit.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:


Ripper is one of my favourites on grit! Neither a route nor a boulder problem, it's what grit's all about. National E1? OK probably not.

In reply to Owen W-G:

I've got to ask, since I can't see that anyone else has; why is HVS American Beauty included?

In reply to Owen W-G:

Sarclet Pimpernel - Sarclet
The Minstrel - Maeshafn
The Black Streak - Diabaig

In reply to Owen W-G:

The Gooove is nearer 5b at the top of P1, P2 is bold! The crag is often damp and vegetated, so not an easy E1 as is implied from this list.
And Aviation at Haytor is never 80mts! Can be done in one runout.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Simba (Cheddar Gorge North) is excellent and Crucible at Cwm Silyn looks worth a place.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Have some of the moorland classics been upgraded? I think (as someone who really hates that kind of thing) Trident is far too hard to be E1, and should definitely stay HVS. Ivory Tower was worth the upgrade though. And yes, Interstate (especially started down on the right) has to be one of the best E1s on grit, and is the kind of thing that a list like this benefits from as not everyone has done it.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Thanks all, I've plenty to add, and agree in retrospect to overrepresenting in some genres

The problem with grit is that most of the best E1s are at stanage. I didn't want too many at any one crag but wanted the best E1 going at many crags covered

I've always thought suicide wall at cratcliffe in a oner is a certain E1 experience and one of the best at that

In reply to Owen W-G:

Thin Red Line, just the right side of your Manchester-Leeds line

In reply to Owen W-G:

The Needle seems like a major omission?

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Limbo or Earl of Perth?

In reply to Mark Collins:

Shivers Arete is never a 'must do' E1. It's fun but it's too unbalanced - scramble up for a bit, clip the cemented in peg then do one hard move.

Banzai Pipeline is a good shout, did it a couple of years ago and it's superb.

In reply to Sean Kelly:

Does the list imply that it's soft? We did it last summer - even in the heatwave the first pitch was gopping! Suspect it must always be like that. Brilliant route though!

In reply to Smelly Fox:





Very much agreed. Also add Black Custard at The Pass, All our Yesterdays and Conscription in Glen Nevis and Raspberry Ripple at Etive.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Looning The Tube and Great Buttress Arete? Both very soft (LTT not E1 in any sensible guide) and not that great either.

I do like ticking lists though...

In reply to Owen W-G:

Only done three of them, so probably not qualified to comment, but if you're picking one route from Wintours leap then surely King Kong is a bigger tick than Big Fly Direct. Both good routes though.

In reply to Owen W-G:

What do you mean by Britain? Great Britain (ie mainland only so no Gogarth, Pabbay etc) British isles? United Kingdom of Great Britain ad Northern Ireland?

Not a single route at Fairhead!! Come on now

In reply to scott quinn:



1. Left Wall.
2. Three Pebble Slab hahahahaha.

Seriously though, I agree, great list.

In reply to Owen W-G:


Even though they're good by Avon standards they are just not high enough quality. Indifferent rock and technically not that good. A bit like climbing on a huge, dirty, noisy climbing wall in a not very attractive setting.

In reply to Owen W-G:


Ah, they're climbs a long way south. Had to say you'd lost me completely!

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Indifferent rock? I really don't think so. Limbo especially is a brilliant route.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Doubtless my beady eyes have let me down again but do I see but one route at the Madoc? If so add Weaver. And for some length as well as quality Girdle of Amphitheater Buttress Craig yr Ysfa. And while in North Wales three routes only for Cloggy compared with all those grit shorties. In any case Boulder, while interesting does not compare with Troach, Shrike, Woubits etc. and in Scotland agree Vindaloo. But add The Bug.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Wow, I have a long way to go! I handful to my name

In reply to Lukeva:

With the new suggestions I am up to over 60

In reply to jcw:

Weaver is E2 as is The Troach and Shrike.

Vember, White Slab and Woubits would be the Cloggy E1s for me

In reply to Owen W-G:

Mars
Black Zawn Swanage

In reply to Owen W-G:
Two obvious omissions are Trophy Crack (Sron na Ciche) and Grooving High (Beinn Eighe). Both about as good as it gets at E1. Balaton Direct (Carnmore)also brilliant.

Also noticed Sula (Dun Mingulay) missing from your E2 list (possibly the most outrageous E2 in the country?)

In reply to Owen W-G:

Not sure about Breaking the Barrier - it's a nice route but hardly top 200 in the UK surely?

Can I suggest you swap it for Sword of Damoclese (Langdale)?

In reply to Bob:

Yes, quite right. I got carried away by another thread which was on E2s, That therefore applies I think also to the Bug and the Girdle I suggested. I'll hold off and leave the Sheffield locus as focus :~)

In reply to Robert Durran:

Sula is on the Ultimate E2 list

In reply to Owen W-G:

Woodburn Wall

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=40446

The best of Northumbrian sandstone crammed into one little pitch - brilliant

In reply to Owen W-G:

Was the Old Man of Hoy original route on the list ? its probably the most 'aspirational' E1 in the country.

To my mind, Philistine is the best Lakes E1 I've done (and I think I've done all the others on that list except for Philistine)

The other major UK omission is, of course, Fairhead

You could add one of the routes on Dewerstone as well (eg Fruitanflancase)

In reply to Owen W-G:

Ceba, Pot Hole Quarry, Clwyd: Definitely worth a quick junket into Northeast Wales for it's 3-star thin crack-climbing on Limestone.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=25774

In reply to GrahamD:


Philistine is probably the best single pitch E1 I've done in the Lakes but Banzai Pipeline is the best overall at the grade.

I'd get rid of either Arcturus or Capella and replace with Man of Straw. Someone mentioned Sword of Damocles higher up which is good but Woolly Jumper round the corner is even better (but might be HVS).

In reply to useful:




I've only spent a day there but had good fun and Ceba was really good.

In reply to Owen W-G:

I have a suggestion.

Take Three Pebble Slab off, cos it's HVS

Sorry - someone had to...

nice list btw

In reply to Owen W-G:
No Fair Head routes?
An Bealach Rúnda, Aoife, Mongrel Fox and Midnight Cruiser come to mind.

In reply to Owen W-G:


Oops!

Two more E1's:
King Cobra (Sgurr Mhic Choinninch)
Atlantic Wall (Am Buachaille)

In reply to GrahamD:

'To my mind, Philistine is the best Lakes E1 I've done (and I think I've done all the others on that list except for Philistine)'

Shome mishtake shurely.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Good list. 62 for me. Spread over 40+ years of "star chasing" though. And some not E1 when I did them. And a couple of alternate leads where I may not have led the hardest pitch (eg Nexus). Oh, and we pendulumed Lithrig which I guess doesn't count.

Please let Cracked actor be E2 - there's few enough E2's on my CV as it is. But I'd happily put Strait Gate at E1, in which case it has to be on the list. Did Ocean on Lundy a while ago, but sadly I believe it's now way to vegetated to make the list. Add White Slab with the lasso instead.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Anyone for Doors of Perception at Baggy? I enjoyed it...

In reply to useful:
Or The Dog?

In reply to Owen W-G:

Strike Lucky

Barbarian

Pleased to see Flying Butress Direct is up there - benchmark E1!

In reply to Owen W-G:
Has Gwydrin on cadar idris been mentioned? Or Long Reach?

In reply to climbingpixie:


I remember big moves off the ground on the right hand side of the arête, perhaps you went up the left hand side. I've never done it that way, but understand both are valid. To be honest I'm just trying to get a few more Lancs routes in the line up, but don't tell anyone will you.

Time

In reply to Mark Collins:

Try Central Route at Wilton instead of Shivers - one of the best single pitches of E1 on grit.

In reply to Pagan:

Cheers for the tip, never tried it or even knew of its existence until now. Shameful really, right back to the books.

In reply to Pagan:

+1 for Central Route. It's a pity that the classic routes (Boudica, Mandarin) at Houghton are E2 as they are among the best quarried routes around.

Man of Straw was my first ever E1 so I've a bit of a soft spot for it but it's not national standard. Do Not is a better E1 at White Gill.

Gimmer String, Razor Crack, Sword of Damocles, Dovedale Grooves, Totalitarian, Philistine, Phoenix, Catacomb, Nimrod and Red Edge are the (my) top ten Lakes E1s

In reply to Owen W-G:

55 and one refusal. Would recommend String of Pearls Bosigran and suggest removing Letterbox Wall/Hangover which lost it's flakes and may be E2 now.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Ardmore Crag, north of Ullapool.

Acramonious Acrobat E1, 5a
Rainbow warrier E1, 5b
Burried Treasure E1, 5b

All given 3 stars on UKC.

In reply to jcw:

The Dog's open for debate: it's certainly a fantastic route, but is easier than Ceba, so only gets HVS.

And The Minstrel E1 5b at Maeshafn, similar area, is awesome pumpy crack climbing! http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=25826

In reply to useful:
Thanks, its been downgraded then. The Ministrel: you can say that again!

In reply to jcw:

The Dog was my first HVS lead - and I think about my 5th ever trad lead
If I'd known it was originally E1 :o

In reply to Owen W-G:

I think I've only done about 13, but even from these I think Great Buttress Arete should be chopped. I don't think anyone would think the worse of the list if Wharncliffe was not represented

In reply to Cake:

Is there a link to the E2 list?

In reply to Al Evans:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=764

In reply to Owen W-G:


Am I right there is nothing from any Scottish mountain cliffs?!

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Looks like it. In fact there's only 9 from Scotland!

Where's Shibboleth, Angel Face, Torro, The Bat, King Kong, Steeple, The Pin, Spock, etc.?

In reply to Owen W-G:

Hmmm, thank you, I got 4 of mine in there, and done, from memory, 68 of them.

In reply to Al Evans:

Only one of mine Al, but 88 ticks. Looking at lists like that makes you appreciate just where you HAVEN'T climbed!

In reply to Bob:

Thanks Bob

In reply to Bob:


Second all of the above uber-classics for sure and the E1s from Ardmair! showing a severe southern bias so far...

For some more E1 routes what about also:
Plain Sailing (the Souter)
Golden Fleece (Rieff)
Jump So High (Creag Dubh)
Hurricane Hidaway (Neist)

And E2's
Elgins Crack (Limekilns)
Shear Fear or Welcome to the Cruise (Ratho)
Barefoot Beginning (Dunkeld Poldubh)
Gobi Roof (Cambusbarron)
The Hill (Creag Dubh)
Supercharger (Neist)
Warfarin (Dunkeld Upper Cave)
Swastika (etive slabs)

Looking forward to working through them wherever they are, good work!

In reply to Dr Toph:


Good local cragging by Central Belt standards, but hardly contenders for UK top 100. This is Scotland - surely we can rise above the standards of those down south who bang on comically about Lancashire quarries.



That's more like it!

In reply to Owen W-G:

Noonday ridge at Caley?!