UKC

Sicily first timer

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 Ava Adore 17 Feb 2014
Considering going to Sicily this October. Could folk who've been before advise me on good place to stay (not camping), which airport to fly in to (if it matters), which crags are best for easy climbing (is there much below 6a?)? I will want beach readily accessible too .

I do have some friends who have been whose brains I can pick, but all advice gratefully received.

Then I can start thinking about cost and timing.

Thanks.
In reply to Ava Adore:

Brigi airport in Trapani will get you to tonnes of climbing by San Vito Lo Capo (Jim Titt and family et al bolt them)

http://www.bolt-products.com/ClimbSicily.htm

Bungalows at El Bahira

Hotels in San Vito (with a nice beach) too.

Need a car if staying in San Vito though.
 tlm 17 Feb 2014
In reply to Ava Adore:

According to the routes on here, there is loads of easy stuff, starting in the 2s!!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=8671

I think people generally stay around San Vito lo capo, flying in to palermo
In reply to Ava Adore:

We have Di Roccia Di Sole - Climbing in Sicily

which shows loads of crags (a lot over in the NE of island)

There is also a newer guide called Sicily Rock
In reply to tlm: for us

Palermo to San Vito was 1.5 hours.

Trapani to San Vito was 1 hour.
OP Ava Adore 17 Feb 2014
In reply to Ava Adore:

Thanks Grumps and tlm X
 jimtitt 17 Feb 2014
In reply to Ava Adore:

You can fly into Palermo or Birgi (Trapani) depending on which carrier you use, Birgi is Ryanair´s East Med hub and the others go to Palermo. They are both under an hour away if you press on! Catania is a hell of a long way away, about 5 hours driving or more.
The current guide is the 3rd edition of Sicily Rock from Gebro verlag with 960 routes, there are more routes not in the guide already (it came out this winter!) and also not in the logbooks on UKC, the total is over 1,000 at the moment.
There are 131 routes below 6a in the guide and 133 more at 6a for you to work on!
Stay at El Bahira (book early, they are full up for a lot of this year) or La Pineta for bungalows/mobiles or one of the millions of apartments in town, when looking at apartments pay attention to the extra costs (cleaning etc) and when the key handover is as many owners live a long way away and don´t drive over on a Thursday evening!
Some survive without a car, some don´t!

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