UKC

I am heading out to Arco in may for a week mainly to BASE jump but want to get some climbing in as well. Looking for recomedations of the more remote craggs to try and avoid the legendary polish that I keep being told about. Looking to climb between 6b and 7a+. Any help would be great.

In reply to Rich2002:

The legendary polish is really a bit of a legend in itself - the classic routes on Cima Colodri are badly polished, and some of the easy routes on the most popular bolt crags. In general, the closer to Arco town the worse. Head up the valley and you will find less and less gloss. There are also hundreds of (often new) trad and semi-trad multi-pitch routes all over the place. New crags are constantly being developed, mostly up valley but even close to Arco. (I have bolted four small crags near my house up valley near Trento).

In reply to Erstwhile:

Awesome can wait to get out there and try some stuff. If you have any specific crag recomendations that would be great. also any new Topos would be good. Is it worth buying the 2010 adition of Arco rock?

thanks again for the help

In reply to Rich2002:

May is a good month for climbing but already getting a bit hot. This site gives some info (you can ignore the "beauty" ratings, which are mostly not filled in):
https://www.falesia.it (Choose Trentino in the little map)

For muti-pitch semi-trad (recommended):
http://www.arrampicata-arco.com/

As for buying guidebooks ... depends how much time you dedicate to climbing compared to jumping (and whether you plan to come back, although you probably will if you are jumpers).
There are two very fat volumes (both also in Enblish), one for trad and one for bolt crags.

You could come and visit me one evening and "memorize" a few pages of my guides if you like. Good beer and food right next door to me, and cheaper than Arco. I'm in Cadine, the village just before Trento city. We could even do some climbing on my after-work evening crags. Come to think of it, there is a potential jump site near my house as well, but I doubt you are allowed to use it.

In reply to Rich2002:
I've only had one trip out there and mostly climbed at
Massone (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1877) and
Nago (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1933). Of the two I preferred Nago (less polished, with a bit more shelter from sun).

If it's hot check out Val Lomasone (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=16996) which I thought was a lovely spot in the dolomite foothills and with cooler air. There are also some good crags around Rive del Garda on or overlooking the lake, but with less routes to go at. Enjoy it's a great area.

In reply to Erstwhile:

Thanks for the help all.

Erstwhile I have PM you.