In reply to Dave 88:
What you want is east facing, half-exposed crags.
Freyr's, wainstones, park nab, Camp Hill will all be dry stuff, but they'll be awful to climb on cause of the wind.
Loads of new routes got done at Glaisdale Rigg today. Dry as a bone, brilliant conditions. That's south east facing small quarries. Still lots of unrecorded lines there (some decent ones sub E1 even).
Smuggler's terrace will also be pretty sheltered. go east is pretty good advice.