UKC

NYM conditions thread

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 Dave 88 21 Feb 2014
Never mind all this winter nonsense, anyone know any good spots for rock on the Moors at the moment? Wainstones seems always dry but the wind is set to be ferocious this weekend. Anywhere dry? Went to Silton this afternoon and it was mega green, couldn't even get up a diff!
 Billhook 22 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave 88:

Go east young man.
 Franco Cookson 22 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave 88:

What you want is east facing, half-exposed crags.

Freyr's, wainstones, park nab, Camp Hill will all be dry stuff, but they'll be awful to climb on cause of the wind.

Loads of new routes got done at Glaisdale Rigg today. Dry as a bone, brilliant conditions. That's south east facing small quarries. Still lots of unrecorded lines there (some decent ones sub E1 even).

Smuggler's terrace will also be pretty sheltered. go east is pretty good advice.
OP Dave 88 22 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave 88:

Cheers lads. Yeah, went Wainstones today and is was bloody windy!
 Billhook 24 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave 88:

There are dozens of small but climbable crags hidden around t'moors. i don't know how many are recorded on UKC but I've lived here all my life and still keep coming across the odd one I've never noticed before.

Quite sheltered there's a nice outcrop of boulder problems on the SE side of Glaisdale head just5 above Glaisdale head farm. I spent an hour or so yesterday and there was hardly a breath of wind.
OP Dave 88 24 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave Perry:

I know there's loads about, that almost a problem in itself; can't see the wood for the trees! I've downloaded all the climbonline PDFs, but it's just a mass of information at the moment, I need to get it all printed off so I can make sense of where everything is.

Anyone know when the bouldering guide is out?
 Dave Warburton 24 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave 88:

I'd suggest using UKC crag search at the moment - as we put anything new that we know the details of up on here. That in tandem with the Climbonline stuff will see you right I should say.

There's dribs and drabs coming onto UKC from the last few years Betaguides prospecting - however if you have any direct queries or want some recommendations then feel free to email me/franco. The betaguides bouldering guidebook should be out sooner this year rather than later?

There's quite a few videos kicking around with the crag and the grade of problems on which is useful, i've got a fair few on my blog - likewise on francos. Also check out Mike Adams vimeo, James Rennardson vimeo and steve ramsden's early stuff.

http://davidwarburton-climbing.blogspot.co.uk/ - follow the tabs to video library which i need to update actually.

http://francocookson-climbing.blogspot.co.uk/

vimeo.com/user7044532

vimeo.com/user7328836

vimeo.com/user2346920


I know this is just shit loads more info, but i'm sure you'll be able to get psyched from it.



 phleppy 24 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave Perry:

Yes, that's Glaisdale Head Boulders you were at, found by chance after the plantation was chopped a few years ago, it's a great little bouldering venue and is in the guide which will be out this spring, it's at final proof reading and checking stage. Your right that there's loads of little outcrops all over the place still being discovered which is rare in England on the whole!
 Billhook 24 Feb 2014
In reply to phleppy:

I remember those boulders before the forestry was planted.!!!!! Although I don't think I ever went there until recently. Nice to know they're been used.
 phleppy 24 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave Perry:

I know of only four other people to have actually climbed any of the problems there, the last time we went was early 2012 and I'm pretty sure no one else has been there since, hopefully it will get more visits when the guide comes out, many of these new venues just need more traffic to make them more appealing!
 Franco Cookson 24 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave Perry:

I think the season is coming! Wonderful place.
 phleppy 24 Feb 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Vermin Manic!
 Franco Cookson 24 Feb 2014
In reply to phleppy:

There's no I in Vermin Advanced.
OP Dave 88 24 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave 88:

Yeah went for a walk round there Sunday afternoon (pissing down!) but looks like a really cool spot.

Cheers for all the info, hopefully gonna be a good summer!
 Franco Cookson 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave 88:

Almost certainly. There are always weather windows - there have been enough dry days even in this soaking January. Hopefully see you out on the Moor!
 Franco Cookson 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Dave 88:

Round crag looked dry tonight. Hillhouse was too.
 Dave Warburton 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Hillhouse will ALWAYS be dry!

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