I'm a dedicated Scarpa user. My feet resemble wedge shaped flippers and so the toe box on Scarpa's tend to fit my feet a lot better. While the Scarpa Boostics serve me well for indoor climbing and bouldering, I really want something a lot stiffer and more comfortable for all day trad, slabs and cracks. 5.10 are pretty much the go-to for this kind of shoe; the whole Anasazi range and the Newtons being pretty much designed for those purposes but they seem to be manufactured a lot narrower than Scarpas.
Has anyone got experience of how these 5.10 shoes change/stretch over time to suit wider feet? I've tried a few pairs of 5.10 shoes on in various sizes and they were pretty uncomfortable around the ball of my feet (but then what shoes are comfy straight out of the box really?). Really would just like to know if it's worth risking it and buying a set that might stretch and shape to my feet, or whether I should look elsewhere for a stiff trad shoe.
I've got wide feet and have been a 5.10 user for some years now, but tend to stick to a small part of the range. I use the Galileo for multi-pitch trad and indoor (lasts for ages); the VCS for grit and the Arrowhead for sport trips. All velcro. Worth trying these models if you haven't already. No real stretch though. I'm a UK9 in a street shoe, but a 9.5 in the Galileo and VCS and a 10 in the Arrowhead.
Scarpa Thunder's were my first pair of shoes. Wasn't that chuffed with them cause they wore out very quickly and didn't feel like they edged very well. You make a good point though. Maybe not the Anasazi VCS, they're really quite a aggresive but I would definitely say the Verde, Blanco and the new Pinkies seem to be orientated towards being technical but comfortable and durable
I swear by Newtons for all day routes and have 3 pairs (two original[white/green] and one mark 2 [orange/black/white]) in various sizes on the go at the moment. The originals quite definitely grow and adapt to the shape of your feet. Haven't used the mark 2 enough to tell yet. Trouble is they've now discontinued the Mark 2 so not sure if any still on sale anywhere. Me and 3 mates have all bought them (cheap!) in the last few months though. Good luck in your search.
I've got very wide feet and use Anasazi Velcros for everything from indoor bouldering to all-day trad. I wear them in a 7, my street size. I tried Galileos in a shop a while back but didn't get on with them. When it comes to buying a new shoe I'll be looking a bit at Scarpa but will almost certainly get another pair of VCS.
Ive used galileos, anasazi velcros and verdes (all size 9.5), the latter two Ive had 3-4 pairs of each. I have fairly fat feet. Ive also had 2 pairs of blackwings (size 10) although these are definitely not trad shoes. The best for trad in my opinion are verdes - fantastic shoes. Blancos (Ive had a pair of these also in 9.5) are stiffer, but I didnt get on with them as they didnt fit my feet well. They force your feet forward more and felt tight on my achilles.
Interestingly I could never cram my toes in to scarpas in the past as they were too narrow! However I have recently bought a pair of scarpa instinct vs and they seem less narrow, although its difficult to compare as, with them being a specialist sport/bouldering shoe, I was willing to tolerate more discomfort.
I also recently bought a pair of Tenaya Masai which everyone said were like Verdes, but they are definitely narrower in the toe box than the 5.10s. More pointy/precise in small pockets but I dont really get on with them comfort-wise, they make my toes go numb...
I dont think thee is much stretch in 5.10s, but they do mould to your feet a bit over the first few months and become more comfy. However in summary I also think they are wider than most brands. It must be a foot shape thing - go and try a few pairs on.
Yes the shoe rubber on the scarpa thunders is very thin and doesn't last that long but you can resole them when run out with 5:10 onyx for 35 pounds at llanberis resoles so not a major point to consider when buying (I normally resole my shoes atleast 3 times).
In reply to Gabe Oliver: Not to be "that guy", but I'd suggest it might be worth considering that if you are sizing anasazis at shoe size, that the might just not be a good fit for your foot shape. 5.10 are notoriously narrow - you are wearing scarpas for a good reason.
The friends that I have that wear 5.10s and for whom 5.10's seem to fit size them much more in line with RockRun and Bananfingers sizing guides (1-2UK down from street) and don't find them painful.
I'm not advocating sizing down through the pain; but considering that if you get pain at a normal sizing recommendation, maybe it's the wrong shoe for you?
I think sizing in relation to your street shoe size is flawed... it depends so much on your socks, how tight you wear your street shoes, whether you wear trainers or smart shoes (I'm a 9 in some trainers, a 7 in most shoes), brand of shoes, etc.. If a climbing shoe fits then then it fits, regardless of size in relation to street shoe size. My rock shoes are tight against the front, sides and back of my feet but don't hurt - I'd say that means they fit!
yeah I'd second that. I haven't just been belidgerantly trying on 5.10 shoes that are clearly the wrong size. I tried on a variety to find the best fit in terms of not being too constricting around the toes but still not having the "dead space" in the heel which some 5.10 shoes are known for.
I found that the best fit for 5.10 shoes was around a size lower than my street shoe, but as I said in the original post, even this still feels fairly uncomfortable. So yeah I guess maybe they're just not for me unless the shoes were liable to stretch or remould slightly to the shape of my feet.
Still keen to try out the Galileo's though as I haven't experienced them myself in comparison to the Verde/Blanco etc
It's flawed as an exact rule, but as a guide it is helpful. For example, if you put on a pair of La Sportiva Miuras, and cannot get into a pair below your shoe size, you should look elsewhere. That doesn't mean you HAVE to wear 3 below (I find 2.5 below - 9 to 6.5 best) - but it offers you a little guidance as to whether or not the shoe might be suited to you.
For what its worth - I couldn't get rid of the baggy space in the 5.10 heel when I point my toe even going 2 full Uk sizes down, where I was having to use a plastic bag to put them on.
> 5.10 are notoriously narrow - you are wearing scarpas for a good reason.
Really? My feet are very broad and I get on well with Whites, (old) Pinks, Velcros, Greens and Galileos.
I have also tried Newtons, but I didn't get on with them very well. I don't like the rounded toe shape and prefer the pointer toes of more technical shoes. I also, bizarrely considering they are a stiff shoe, found them supportive and painful to trad climb in. As in they hurt my arches whilst standing around on poor foot holds, whilst placing gear/working out what to do next.
To the OP:
I've been very happy with my Scarpa Vapor Laces and very, very happy with the Llanberis Resole on them.
I will probably get a pair of tight Miuras later this summer.
Whilst Fiveten shoes are very good, look the part and stealth rubber id superb I am not convinced they present good value for money. The build quality of the uppers is pretty shoddy, which means that they aren't really worth resoling in my view.
I would get a pair of Sportivas or Scarpas. The build quality is much better. Make sure you don't go through the rand rubber and a get them resoled for a third of the price of a new pair. Plus you don't have to faff about breaking them in.