UKC

Alps in April (Chamonix)

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 Alpenglow 24 Feb 2014
I'm considering heading out to the alps in April to tick some classic routes.
Whymper couloir, Chere couloir (Grades around AD and potentially up to D-)

Having only been to Chamonix in the summer, I don't know what conditions to expect.

Will there be too much snow so that skiing is required to access the climbs?

Will the standard layering system of baselayer, fleece and fleece-lined softshell be warm enough (around 4000m) with a ME Fitzroy as a belay jacket?

Will the classic routes likely to be too plastered with snow/bad avalanche conditions/too cold so that the best option is valley level ice cragging?

Cheers,
BR
OP Alpenglow 24 Feb 2014
In reply to blackreaver:

Bump
 Simon4 24 Feb 2014
In reply to blackreaver:
Will there be too much snow for access by foot - almost certainly! It is the height of the ski-touring season, you can however use snowshoes if your skiing is not up to it. It is significantly less efficient, but is viable.
Re the clothes, no idea but I would most likely use similar clothes to ice-climbing in the UK or continental roadside-ish January/February ice rather than Summer Alpine type clothing
People do do routes like the Chere at that time of year, not sure about the Whymper, which would be very serious (the Aiguille Verte is always serious due to the descent). Conditions can vary a lot, you certainly can have avalanche risks. Valley level ice cragging is likely to be finished by then, unless high and pure North facing.
Post edited at 17:24
 John Cuthbert 27 Feb 2014
In reply to blackreaver:

mate, you need to prepare yourself for a whole raft of conditions. Over the last three years april has ushered in perfect stable weather, snow-snow- snow, and Foehn storm-storm-storm. That's how it is in the Alps these days.

Right now is super snowy with much more expected. Higher up Southerly winds have battered the North faces, so they are looking very sketchy, very gray having been quite white not so long ago.

As a rule, the hardest things to get done are classic routes like the Whymper (and perhaps the most dangerous..). The more technical routes offer better prospects (Chere Colouir should be OK). Happy to post you a better update form here in Cham nearer the time..

JC

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