/ UKC Conditions report SKye 26th Feb

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Mike Lates - on 26 Feb 2014
Not a lot of climbing to report in a week where the temps have risen and weather gone downhill just for a change.
The good news is the extent of plastering that's still up there. I've posted a poor shot of Gillean into my UKC gallery from yesterday that should be up today some time.
If this promised cold snap comes in there'll be plenty to go for this wekend.
Mike Lates - on 26 Feb 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:

Pinnacle Ridge yesterday, 25th feb.- http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=235418
BnB - on 26 Feb 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:

We did the traverse of Sgurr na Gillean on Monday. It was a total wade up Coire Riabhach and the summit ridge was covered in a loose layer of graupel/hail over deep wet snow. Route took us nearly 11 hours from Sligachan, needing to pitch/move together all the way up and down the south-east and west ridges and finishing with a very careful descent of Coire Bhasteir, which had avalanched in at least two spots. Grand day out but exhausting going.
BnB - on 27 Feb 2014
In reply to BnB:

Did Blabheinn Clach Glas Traverse today. Started in summer conditions, then was pounded with hail on the North Ridge summit crux, leaving descent of the Imposter slab a tiny bit treacherous. By the time we reached the Putting Green winter had set in and the snow was almost firm up close to the summit. Diff Chimney however was interesting with one axe but no placements. South Buttress gully looked full(ish) as we descended the coire. If the promised freeze occurs, someone will have a good outing there.
Captain Solo on 02 Mar 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:

Did Pinnacle Ridge on Fri. Start of an attempt of the full traverse. Snow a bit soft lower down but an amazing coverage of good neve for the pinnacles, Grade III.

Attempt at traverse Fri/Sat. Started up Pinnacle Ridge and bailed out down An Stac screes. An incredible coverage of good neve on the crest right along until I descended from Bruach Na Frithe. FL shot up in the afternoon and snowpack softened with wind picking up. A soggy bivi at Bealach na Glaic Moire. Thankfully snow had firmed up again overnight, a wonderful neve romp nothing harder than Grade III, in the mist but not much wind until the In Pin. It started snowing and as I started up Sgurr Mhic Choinnich on powdered rock in a blizzard decided it wasn't fun anymore. A bit annoying with good snow conditions and time to finish but an amazing experience nontheless.
mattbarratt - on 02 Mar 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:

Good conditions on Thuilm Ridge of Sgurr Mhadaidh yesterday. The crest is buried under a combination of solid snow ice and some decent accumulation of wind slab and cornices. Should be some excellent fun to be had in the Cuillin over the next couple of days.
Mike Lates - on 02 Mar 2014
In reply to Captain Solo: Wow; good effort! Shame the weather isn't playing ball as much as the snow conditions, which is the theme of the season sadly.
Was up on Banachdaich today and amazed how good conditions were. Very worth doing any of the ridges just now, just find the weather window. Pretty anaemic in terms of seriousness and little fresh lying.

Mike Lates - on 03 Mar 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:

Stunning conditions- http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=235725
Should survive the thaw later this week. Look out for some stable weather & take heed of Captain Solo's example!
http://skyeguides.co.uk/back-to-incredible-cuillin-conditions-2-3-march/
Andrew Barker - on 05 Mar 2014
Bad luck with the weather at the end! We traversed Mhadaidh on Monday and used your sling on the abseil from the third top but couldn't see a sling or any signs of a previous abseil on the second top. We were curious to know what you did there as it would be a tough downclimb!
Captain Solo on 05 Mar 2014
In reply to Andrew Barker:

I seem to remember downclimbing from the summit for about 20m on steep snow until I found an insitu cord and maillon round a block. This gave a final 15/20m ab down a steep wall to the neck.
I think I made 6 abs mostly from spikes/ blocks although I used another sling round a chockstone above King's cave chimney.
I even managed to downclimb bidean druim nam ramh north top on good neve to save the faff.
Andrew Barker - on 07 Mar 2014
In reply to Captain Solo:

> I seem to remember downclimbing from the summit for about 20m on steep snow until I found an insitu cord and maillon round a block. This gave a final 15/20m ab down a steep wall to the neck.

I think this was the cord and maillon we left on the abseil from the central top of Bidein a couple of weeks ago. On Monday on the second top of Mhadaidh we had to dig the ab block out of the snow and used our own sling which is why we were stumped as to what you did!
Andrew Barker - on 07 Mar 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:


> Should survive the thaw later this week. Look out for some stable weather & take heed of Captain Solo's example!


Do you know roughly what time this photo was taken? We were on Mhadaidh then (but probably hidden or too small to see).

Bad luck on White Wedding! I remember seeing this

http://colinthrelfall.wordpress.com/2011/12/18/attempt-on-white-wedding-sat-17th-dec/

and being gutted I couldn't get to Skye then.
Mike Lates - on 07 Mar 2014
In reply to Andrew Barker:

Properties say 12-53 Andrew. Got any pics from that moment to locate urself? No sign on the shot when I zoom in.
Andrew Barker - on 07 Mar 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:

Thanks for checking. We were probably just out of sight near the top of the Fheadain ridge as we popped up to the west top of Bidein whilst waiting to see if the mist would clear.
Captain Solo on 07 Mar 2014
In reply to Andrew Barker:

> I think this was the cord and maillon we left on the abseil from the central top of Bidein a couple of weeks ago. On Monday on the second top of Mhadaidh we had to dig the ab block out of the snow and used our own sling which is why we were stumped as to what you did!

In that case I think it was a smallish block I managed to dig out on the edge and ab directly off that.

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